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Surrender to Place de la Concorde

1/28/2015

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By day or by night, heads turn -- left, then right, look up -- whoa, what's over there....
Place de la Concorde is one long breathtaking look at majestic Paris.
  It's one of those spots so truly spellbinding, it's tough to take it all in.

It's a place YOU MUST SEE --  most definitely at least twice --
  to witness its transformation from day into night.
At twilight and dawn, too, the atmosphere seems to change.
  By sun or by moon, sunshine or rain, her many treasures capture
a certain mood, always dynamic according to the light.

Place de la Concorde personifies what Paris does best.
  It's a great big gulp of beauty, history and drama.
Legendary for her iconic boulevards, monuments, art and spectacles,
the city brings it all to a head in this one monumental square.
 
Just remember, you need to come prepared to see -- to
really absorb -- the unabridged circus that surrounds you.
Going for broke, the distractions of this lovely spectacle compete for your attention.
  I doubt even Superman's x-ray vision could capture the entire panorama all in one serving.
 
  So please, pay attention.
Savor it slowly in small bites, thoughtfully, a bit at a time.
Fully participate in the splendid stage set before you.

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Place de la Concorde is perhaps best known for its gruesome past.
It began innocently enough.

  A large statue of King Louis XV was erected on the square
to celebrate his recovery from a long illness.
Originally named Place Louis XV, French authorities continued
to enlarge and improve the grand space.

  But during the French Revolution, the king's statue was quickly replaced,
substituting an even larger monument called Liberté.
  Lickety-split, they speedily renamed the square Place de la Revolution.

  Before long, a guillotine was installed and -- quick as you can say
"coupez les têtes" -- over 1100 heads went missing. 
It was here that poor King Louis XVI, grandson to the original
namesake of the historic square, lost his life.
Talk about adding insult to injury!
  Poor guy, he had tried to be a good king.
  He made a run to abolish serfdom, promoted religious tolerance and actively supported
the American colonists in their bid to win independence from Great Britain.

  But the mood for revolution was ripe.
 The sun shone down brightly on that ghastly guillotine.
The King, his Queen, and a bevy of royals -- all punished for crimes of birthright --
lost their heads in this very well-dressed space.

  Look for the bronze plaque that marks the spot.
  Danton, Madame Du Barry and even the architect of the Terror himself,
the wily Robespierre, all met their maker on Place de la Revolution.
  "Dignified and painless" was the questionable description painted by the herd of haters.
  Death squads in sheep's clothing, this public frenzy produced little else other than mayhem.

Years earlier, the square was the scene of another type of deadly havoc.
  During the monumental celebration honoring the king's marriage to Marie Antoinette,
dozens of onlookers were trampled to death as they met with the forcible crush
of the crowd jostling for a better look at the fireworks.

But don't let history stop you.
  Your heart may skip a beat or two and your blood pressure may rise
when you first see the imaginative spot, but the guillotine and
the smell of blood have long since disappeared.
  True, you may still need to dodge the unwashed masses.....
but the only body part you might lose here is your good sense.


Now re-named Place de la Concorde (agreement), this formerly bloodthirsty
  symbol proves that when arbitration and cool heads prevail, everyone's a winner.

It has come full-circle, once again a royal square -- only this time the kingdom is yours.

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Still the largest square in Paris, Place de la Concorde had optimistic beginnings.

Originally set up as a nice place to erect the king's statue in the undeveloped
 real estate that stood in between the prominent Champs-Elysées and prestigious
Tuileries Gardens, it had a dry moat that surrounded all eight of its sides.
  At first, bridges were used to cross over its swampy furrows but before long,
famous architect Jacques-Ange Gabriel had a vision. 
He saw the site for its true potential, convinced it would play an important role
in making Paris the most glorious city in the world.
If he could somehow harmoniously pull together the swank Champs-Elysées
with the royal Tuileries Gardens, he would deliver his ambitious gift to Paris.

By 1772, Monsieur Gabriel's plan came together. 
The moat was filled in, replaced by artistic fountains and imperial statuary.
  On the northern end, stately buildings were carefully constructed,
fulfilling the promise of the clairvoyant architect.

  Place Louis XV was so perfectly matched to the nearby avenues and gardens,
it looked like it had always been there.

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Place de la Concorde's monumental fountains and statues are not just props on a theater set.
Each "accessory" is a masterpiece, an artistic reminder that
This is Paris, This is France.

The Obelisk is the center piece, the star, the headliner on this stage.

 Born in the temple of Ramses II at Thebes, the Obelisk was a gift
from the Viceroy of Egypt, erected on Place de la Concord in 1836.
  Seventy-five feet tall, weighing 230 tons, the granite tower projects power and grandeur. 
It stands out over all the rest as testament to the lure of
the tall and the skinny (Eiffel Tower, runway models) in Paris.

TV cameras love it. 
As the Tour de France charges toward the finish line on the Champs-Elysées,
the perfect panoramic shot always picks up the gleaming gold cap that tops the Obelisk.
  Made in Egypt but clearly at home in Paris, the golden cap is the icing on the cake.
The French state and its taxpayers added the bling to ensure it flaunts that
certain 'je ne sais crois' that all French monuments must evoke.

  The hieroglyphics seem to say,
"Having a wonderful time in Paris. Wish you were here."

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Place de la Concorde is worthy as a stand-alone traveler's destination.
  But over and above what you see on the square is what you see beyond its borders.
  The Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower, the Tuileries Gardens,
the Madeleine Church are all in plain view from the conspicuous square.
  As a matter of fact, if you're in town for just a few days (God forbid), make it a priority
to stand where you can acclimate yourself to many of Paris' most celebrated sites. 

Designer Jacques Hittorff designed the square's famous fountains that
pay tribute to the rivers and seas so treasured by France.
  They're over the top, worthy of your best selfie
hamming it up with the frolicking gods and goddesses.

Stone statues, presiding over all eight corners of the square, represent the French cities
of Bordeaux, Brest, Lille, Lyon, Marseilles, Nantes, Rouen and Strasbourg.
Definitely worth a look. 

Then there's the majestic Hotel Crillon, an enlargement of the original structure that Jacques-Ange Gabriel so ably constructed in his early vision of the royal square.
Originally the home of the Duc d'Aumont, it passed on to the Crillon family who, after
some 100 years, sold it to the enterprising individuals that transformed it into a luxury hotel.
Not just any hotel, the Hotel Crillon has more than just a good corner lot and a spacious lobby.

 The history of this great palace is legendary.
  It was here that Benjamin Franklin signed the trade treaty that first recognized the
Declaration of Independence which cemented the American/French friendship forever.
Since then, this mansion turned hotel has played host to
rock stars, movie stars and heads of state.

Look around again. 
You can see the Eiffel Tower, the Madeleine Church, the Assemble Nationale,
the Tuileries, and the Arc de Triomphe.
  Two dynamite museums, the Jeu de Paume and l'Orangerie, are in your scope.
  Do pick at least one for an afternoon of artistic indulgence.
 
Like a trip to the moon, it's all here on Place de la Concorde.
And just a few more steps away, you'll find the rue de Rivoli with its
WHSmith bookstore, Angelina's tearoom and the perfectly manicured Hotel Meurice. 
Not bad for one Metro ride.
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But here's the real reason to make the journey.
  Place de la Concorde put the exclamation point on Paris as an idea,
as the community for elevated thought, the Paris of words and great thinkers.
  Sure, it underscores the blue of the sky and the romance of the moon,
the sexy slip barely peeking out from under a red dress.

But remember this.
  Important things happened here in the past.
And you just know there's more to come.
  The Paris Story.
Right here.

Do you recall the fatalistic song penned by the great
Shel Silverstein, made famous by Marianne Faithful? 
"The Ballad of Lucy Jordan"
comes to mind when I think about Place de la Concorde.

"The mornin' sun touched lightly on the eyes of Lucy Jordan
In her white suburban bedroom, in a white suburban town
As she lay there 'neath the covers, dreaming of a thousand lovers
'Til the world turned to orange and the room went spinnin' round

At the age of 37, she realised she'd never ride through Paris
In a sports car, with the warm wind in her hair
And she let the phone keep ringin' as she sat there softly singin'
Pretty nursery rhymes she'd memorised in her daddy's easy chair


Her husband, he was off to work, and the kids were off to school
And there were oh so many ways for her to spend her day
She could clean the house for hours, or rearrange the flowers
Or run naked down the shady street screaming all the way

At the age of 37, she realised she'd never ride through Paris
In a sports car, with the warm wind in her hair
And she let that phone keep ringin' as she sat there softly singin'
Pretty nursery rhymes she'd memorised in her daddy's easy chair

The evening sun touched gently on the eyes of Lucy Jordan
On the rooftop where she'd climbed when all the laughter grew too loud
And she bowed and curtseyed to the man, who reached and offered her his hand
And led her down to the long white car that waited past the crowdAt the age of 37, she knew she'd found forever as they rode along through Paris
With the warm wind in her hair
Ooooohhh yes with the wind in her hair oooooohhhh......"


(c)1973 Sony Music Entertainment Inc.
Read more - Ballad Of Lucy Jordan Lyrics | MetroLyrics
*********************************

Lucy Jordan.
I like to think of her red car taking a spin
'round and 'round Place de la Concorde.
For her, it's still Place de la Liberation.....

And that's just about as perfect a place you'll ever find.

  Three cheers for Place de la Concorde, a place we can all agree is
Paris-Sensational

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1 Comment

Baccarat - Poetry in Crystal

1/21/2015

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How do you spell fancy?
B-A-C-C-A-R-A-T

The 250-year-old French crystal-works practically defines the fine art
of designing, cutting and polishing glass until its magnified
prisms of light practically defy commonsense science.

The name Baccarat channels a host of assets, from traditional stemware
and chandeliers to the more modern table settings, jewelry, perfume, a
  pair of museums and, most recently, a growing chain of over-the-top hotels.

The iconic label distinguishes itself through a thoughtful history of
craftsmanship, artistic ingenuity and nimble business savvy.

Not to mention pretty.
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The Galerie-Musée Baccarat in Paris is a great way to spend a few hours
feeling like a Russian czarina or high falutin' potentate.

Located in posh Passy (11 place des Etats-Unis), the crystal treasury's
harbor is a 19th century mansion boasting its own special history.
  Art patron Viscountess Marie-Laure de Noailles (1920-1970) spent her lifetime throwing lavish parties on the premises, personally buying, selling and
  making love to various artists, writers and poets.
  Masters of the avant-garde Man Ray, Salvatore Dali and Jean Cocteau
were just a few of her artiste-friends.
The aristocratic fairy godmother, much recognized for her unconventional
design aesthetic, mixed old masters with young modern,
as she provided refuge for a coterie of talent from the Paris art world.
 
Mindful of its audacious design history, the storied mansion was re-born
once again in this century, this time as showcase for hundreds
of spectacular pieces from the house of Baccarat.
Thanks to designer Philippe Starck, the renovation and bold design
of a new aesthetic was created for the iconic brand.
  This new guardian of taste -- or chutzpah, depending on your personal take,
  delivered an intriguing blend of contemporary opulence and
bold blueprint, one that celebrates both the timelessness of the mansion
as well as the daring spectacle of priceless crystal creations.

  It's a gallery within a museum -- or is the other way around?
  Either way, it's delightful and if you can afford the freight,
you can take home your own auroral souvenir.

There is also a restaurant on site (reservations highly recommended)
run by Paris top-chef Guy Martin.
  The Cristal Room, aptly named, is open Monday through Friday,
offering refined cuisine and fixed menu options in a magnificent setting
that honors its name and ties to Baccarat.

This museum-gallery is as good as it gets, showing off hundreds of sensational
light refracting pieces -- including chandeliers, table settings, vases,
perfume bottles, paperweights, jewelry and even a holography-induced
"talking" vase --- all within the extravagantly painted salon walls and ceilings.
  Over-the-top, yes, but ready to add a bit of excessive fantasy
to your already fabulous vision of Paris.
Note, the museum is closed on Tuesday and Sunday.

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 Saturated with light and infused with legendary design,
Baccarat's objects of desire come from humble origins.
  The small town of Baccarat, located in the Lorraine region near the
   artful city of Nancy, is still home to the crystal works as well as a museum.

  Making crystal is not a delicate proposition.
  Silica, lead, potassium and other chemicals are baked at a searing 1500 degrees. 
Handled by brave artists using indelicate utensils such as wooden paddles,
tweezers and calipers, they blow and shape the treacherous
molten glass into objects of grand desire.

  Decades of apprenticeship are required.
Surely it's a labor of love and commitment to work out your days
in the hellishly hot heavy atmosphere next to the burning furnaces.
  The company's commitment to these artisans is strong
and has been from its beginnings.
  Baccarat has, since 1823, provided for some sixty families,
accommodating them in rent-free housing on premise.
  Skilled craftsmanship, commitment, and hard work go into the production
that feasibly is half sweatshop - half artist atelier,
giving life to the virtuoso execution of an iconic product.

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Baccarat added jewelry to their collection in 1992. 
Hoping to capture a new, possibly younger clientele, the company
collaborated with French designers, creating a bold vision that transforms
their heritage crystals into wearable objects of desire.

  Jewelry sales now account for well over 10% of their annual sales.
  Perhaps diamonds are forever -- but crystals from Baccarat
are unquestionably eye-catching, seductive --- and affordable.

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In 1997, Baccarat was inspired to try their hand at the burgeoning fragrance industry.  Already well known for their peerless crystal creations, such as
 limited edition custom vials ($1800 each!) of Jean Patou's Joy,
  Baccarat went for the whole enchilada, giving birth to a new
  crystal bottle that encases a fresh new scent, all in one fell swoop.

  Rouge 540 was created for discerning buyers.
  The number 540 was clearly chosen to spotlight the temperature
Baccarat uses to heat their crystal into their best loved color --- red,
the same color as the pipette (designer stick used for perfume application)
that accompanies the crystal bottle of fragrant elixir.
  This unique shade of red was discovered in 1847 as the magicians of Baccarat 
thrillingly fused clear crystal and 24-carat gold powder into a vision
that looks as glamorous today as it it did way back when.

Sophisticated and modern, the new perfume adds up to so much of what
Baccarat stands for -- timeless traditions, design appeal, skill,
beauty, vision, complexity, and purpose.
  The list of superlatives can't read long enough for such a thoughtful
and accomplished company.

  The name of Baccarat doesn't just stand for pretty shiny things.
  The House of Baccarat is the essence of French innovation,
captivating artistry and ingenuity.

  Just one more visual example of The Paris Effect

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Paris Beyond the Eiffel Tower

1/14/2015

2 Comments

 
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You've heard it before.
Paris is a sure thing.
   Attracting over 27,000,000 visitors a year,
Paris is the high priestess of the travel industry.

One thing you can bet on, Paris oozes personality.

Multiple personalities, that is.
Subtle shades of light and shadow, womanly curves and brutal legend.
Magnetic, dynamic, distinguished -- sometimes a bit
formidable and cranky -- but always -- ALWAYS,
PARIS DELIVERS.

If you begin your visit expecting one thing, then you'll probably find it.
But if you like to search out the subtle differences, the complex character
that surprises and inspires, start looking for her variegated textures,
opportunities that don't necessarily show up in your travel guide.
Discover delightful stops and unexpected whiffs of experiences that
 are really quite easy to find if you have the guts to tempt fortune and roam the city.
It's all there in the diverse smorgasbord we call Paris.

Let's face it.
  You don't wear a badge that says "slightly odd female, Paris fanatic"---
that would be me --- nor do you want to be viewed in only one color.
  It's the same when you visit this city.
  If you think of Paris as a place to knock out in 3 days with the
 EiffelTower-MonaLisa-NotreDame-ChampsElysees-Montmartre-surlywaiters-rudelocals
you've heard about, then indeed, that's probably what you'll find --- and not much else.

Instead, let's talk about what Paris does best.
  Then, as you decide what works best for your heart's desire,
I'm betting your thoughts of this world-class destination will evolve.
Get out of your logical brain for a minute so you can uncover
the uncommon and catch the curve-ball Paris offers.

First things first.
It's not a catastrophe to get lost for an hour or so, to ditch your usual
well-organized common sense and play the ponies.
Take a chance, enjoy the uncertainty.
Before long, you too may turn into an oddball Paris fanatic,
ready to trade in a kidney for the chance to return again next year.

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Paris, the City of Love

Oh yeah, they've got this one covered.
  L'amour is everywhere.

  Rodin's "The Kiss",  lovers on every bridge, in every park, on every street corner.
  Sex and sexy must have been invented on these streets. 
Annoying to some, attraction for others, this is one Paris legend that you really can't avoid.
  So just join in. 
Or at least allow for a little flight of fancy.

Flirt with a waiter or write a love letter, unclog your itinerary to take pleasure,
slow --- slower ---- there, that wasn't so hard, was it....
  At the very least, you'll love yourself more.
 
  The French language is ridiculously romantic and everywhere you turn, you'll see
stimulating art, fresh flowers and gardens, lovers loving, and platters of raw oysters.
I say, turn up the volume.
Kiss a frog.
Eat some chocolate.

Buy some sexy underwear.
Be passionate --- at least for your french fries.
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Paris, the City of Light

Whether you're a morning person or a night owl, you'll
love it when the lights come on in the late evening.

Paris is called The City of Light for two reasons.

  Number one, it was the center of ideas during the Age of Enlightenment,
a time when learning and sharing and thinking rocked the world.
  It remains a city of enlightenment, where writers, philosophers and creative people
share their vision, inspired by the streets that surround them.

A second reason Paris is called the City of Light is the seemingly
supernatural phenomenon of their gorgeous nightly light show.
  The whole landscape looks as if it's been designed by celestial spirits versed with
a talent for making the city's already gorgeous architecture even more ---- Paris-y.

Paris at night is so ablaze in beautiful lights, you'll stop counting your steps
and forget about your aching feet and emptying wallet.
Paris is one of those lucky "ladies" who doesn't need any makeup.
But hear me now, those nighttime highlights they put in her hair
transform the already stunning Paris into the goddess she is --
  shimmering, over-the-top, shot through and through with uncontested glamor.


Paris at night is red lipstick and Chanel No. 5, unpredictable, irresistible.
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Paris, the City of Fashion

We've seen the videos.
  Statuesque models strutting down the runway,
their savage good looks fine tuned to perfection.
  But that's not what "gets" me when I visit Paris.
  It's the everyday man and woman on the street, polished, classic
-- even in jeans --
  looking better than your average earthling.


  They don't just schlep around like the rest of us.
  From their cool eyewear to their hip wrap-around mile long scarves (sometimes even
  in the heat of summer), your average Paris local looks pulled together and distinctly Parisian.
  David Lebovitz, the American pastry chef turned Paris-based food blogger/cookbook author, once described a scene where he knew he was finally a Parisian as he pulled on
a button down shirt and pressed jeans just to take the garbage out.

  So if you don't have the budget to visit the House of Chanel or
shop on Avenue Montaigne, at least take a few notes.
Look at the quality of their shoes and handbags, the sophistication of a vintage watch.
  Admire the restraint they cherish when it comes to makeup, hair and accessories.
  So the next time you run to the grocery store in your yoga pants or
 
slap on every piece of jewelry you own, all at the same time.....

  Paris fashion = style, taste and careful editing.
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Paris, the City that Feasts

Does anyone do food as well as the French? 

While some may throw stones, calling French cuisine tired or overly rich,
I double-dog-dare-you to try not to eat well when you're in Paris.
  You'd have to make a real (and foolish) effort.

Enjoy the culinary banquet.
  Look for out of the way places on side streets and in
neighborhoods that don't surround the top tourist targets. 
Take your time.

Let's "do lunch" means something different here.
  The gastronomical meal of the French is listed on UNESCO's World Heritage List -
the same list that promotes the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Colosseum in Rome.
  The ritual of fine dining is as important to the French as the food they eat.
 
That doesn't always mean a white tablecloth and four courses. 
Sunday lunch in the country or dinner at Grandmere's table is proof positive that the
social aspects contribute as much as the food to the passion for French culinary arts.
  Food here, and the time spent enjoying it, is golden.
A treasure and a pleasure enjoyed by all.
Order a cheese plate.
  Please.
  You're welcome.

So whether you dine at l'Arpège or Guy Savoy --  or hanker for the rotisserie chicken
dripping its golden fat on some lucky potatoes down the block, please look
at your plate the way a Paris local does -- not just nourishment
  or calories, but an esteemed part of a long culinary tradition.
And for heaven's sake, please don't forget -- wine is food, too. 
Tilt a glass or two with every meal.

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Paris, the City of Words and Ideas

Writers, philosophers, cartoonists. 
These are the people that influence Parisians.
Artists and innovators, chefs, intellectuals and designers.
Political debate is hot.
  The price of your home is not.
Knowledge and history are sacred.
The Fine Arts, a good liberal arts education, language and conversation are admired.
Liberté, égalité, fraternité is not just a clever slogan.

Look around, listen.
  When you're sipping a coffee at your new favorite café,
compare it to the voices in your own head.
  Yes, French people love sports too --- but their discourse seems a bit more cerebral than ours.  Books, movies, and abstract ideas often hold center court.
I'm not saying Parisians have a higher IQ, just that the ability to use words
and share ideas -- succinctly, intelligently -- are given their due.

Go to a bookstore.
Discover new art.
  Learn to ENJOY disagreement in a political discussion.
Join the conversation.
  Catch the fever -- beyond the Eiffel Tower.

Truly The Best of Paris
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Bountiful Beautiful Brittany

1/8/2015

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The region of Brittany, called Bretagne in France, is known for its rugged coastline,
stunning beaches, towering platters of just-caught seafood,
buckwheat crepes and curiously quaint lace headdress.

But to me, Brittany is France-on-Viagra.


This farfetched land of superabundance is too-too spectacular to render in plain English.
It's a Celtic cocktail of Alice in Wonderland, King Arthur's Court and Dorothy's OZ.
  If you follow 'the yellow brick road' to this enchanting paradise,
  you'll find great adventure and a fistful of fond memories.

The reference to King Arthur isn't just an exaggerated
aggrandizement of all-things-France.
  Merlin and Arthur purportedly made headlines right here.
  The forest of Paimpont, referred to as Brocéliande in Arthurian legend,
  is located in the fairytale woodland of inner Brittany. 

Confused?  King Arthur's Merlin in France? 
Back in the day, legend has it that petite Bretagne (little Britain) is where
Merlin made magic with his lady-in-the-lake, Viviane.

  And I'm here to tell you, it would take a wizard to come up with a vacation spot like this.

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First, the coastline. 
For starters, it's long - 1800 miles worth of golden beaches and ports,
dramatic rocky bays, savage seas and a surplus of islands -- over 800 (!) of them.
  An embarrassment of riches.

Names like the Cote d'Emeraude (Emerald Coast) and the Cote de Granit Rose
(Pink Granite Coast) conjure up visions of natural beauty that are
even more pleasing than their pretty names suggest.
  Cotes d'Amour conjures up love and seduction, swanky villas and pristine resorts.
Use your imagination ..... What else do you need to start packing?

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Rennes is the capitol and one that doesn't disappoint.
  Filled with youth and vigor, it's home to about 50,000 students who
populate its fun sidewalk cafés and bustling bars.
It's quirky and inelegant -- just right for a quick escape from sophisticated Paris.
Do NOT miss the weekly market, one of the best in all of France.

  The small city of Vannes is both lively and lovely as are the more famous
Breton towns of St-Malo, artistic Pont-Aven and legendary Mont St-Michel.

And then there's historic Dinan.
Please get out your highlighter pen so you don't miss it.
  Timber-frame houses -- a crooked little river -- fortified walls
encircle an engaging chateau -- winding little streets
festooned with flowers -- all cuter than a baby's bottom --
  Dinan will be a shoo-in on your short list of Best of France towns.

Brittany, like so much of France, boasts a wealth of chateaux where
  castles and royal ruins pop up on nearly every corner of the region. 
The Chateau of Fougères stands mostly in ruin but, lucky for us, enough stones
  prevail to breathe life into a memorable visit as you contemplate life in medieval times.
  Castles at Josselin and Vitré are both worth a tour; not only are they perfectly wonderful examples of Breton art and architecture, but the towns in which they reside are splendid 
little stops to catch your breath and have a look around in a local bookstore or café.

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There are too many towns to mention -- but please try to put a few on your list of must-sees. 

Quimper, best known for its markets and faience -- charming, handmade
ceramic pottery -- still produces the decidedly country french collectible.


The town of Auray boasts a neighborhood called St. Goustan which I featured
in a blog about Lafayette and the American connection -- and that's exactly
what you'll find in this adorable river town that looks like a movie set
waiting for its celebrated leading man, Benjamin Franklin.

Beautiful Belle-Ile, justifiably the most famous of Brittany's many islands,
was once the hideaway of legendary actress Sarah Bernhardt.
If you have the time to laze about for a few days, put it on your radar.

Less known but equally amazing is tiny Ile de Brehat.
  It's yea big and lushly green, but what surprises most is the beautiful QUIET
that sets it apart from most harbors where the table is set for tourism.
  No cars, no engines, no sounds except nature.
Imagine what the world used to sound like.
It will take you by surprise.
  Sweet silence, uncommon sunsets -- what more can you hope for --
and you can see most of it in only a few short hours.

Bird life is staggering in Brittany and you should treat
yourself to a tour around the island of Sept-Iles. 
All manner of birds are protected, including
  a wondrous peek at local puffins and gray seals.
  But that's Brittany, a party around every corner.


A completely different kind of eye-opener, Brittany's famous calvaries,
granite platforms that tell the story of Christ & His Passion, are
dotted along the most traditional parts of the region. 
This is the Finistère, where the isolated Breton language was still spoken
during the first half of the 20th century and ladies in lace caps reign supreme.
  They keep the faith and cultural identity alive with their own brand
of costume, dance, music and saintly festivals.
  Oddly gray and haunting -- but beautiful nonetheless -- you won't regret one minute
of the area's individuality so completely set apart from the rest of France.
  If you like original, you'll enjoy Finistère's complex character.

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Butter.
  Did I mention butter?
  Salted butter puts the essence of Brittany into all things deliciously Breton.
It's an independent cuisine, certainly set apart from the rest of France.
If there's one thing to taste here, it's the butter.

You're probably already familiar with salted caramels from this
region (much imitated world-wide) but have you ever
taken a heavenly bite out of a Kouign amann? 
Don't worry, no one knows how to pronounce it, just drool and they'll figure it out.
  This pastry is so full of caramelized butter, I don't understand how it holds its parts together.
  Butter, sugar, and heaven -- a simple recipe.

  The same Breton butter marries with little rye rounds
served alongside just plucked fresh oysters.
  Brittany's gourmet butter goes a long way into making their other
claim to fame -- buckwheat galettes, peerless in the crepe category,
filled with any one of a number of local savory ingredients.
So as you taste test a new part of France and discover its traditional,
often times conservative cuisine,
look first for the delectable, cream filled butter.

The salt marshes of Guérande are nearby, home to another Brittany Best. 
Fleur de sel is the most celebrated of the lot, revered by top chefs around the world.
You can also find sacks and jars of the coarse gray stuff from the same waters -- all winners.  
From culinary artists to culinary wannabes like me, you'll soon rely on the
indispensable commodity from this particular corner of France.

Rich in minerals, there are no additives and all you'll taste is the clean
  suggestion of the wild Atlantic, elevating the flavor of every bite it touches.

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One of the things I love most about travel is the chance to see something
totally unexpected, to have a mind-blowing experience that isn't anticipated.

  I knew that Carnac, near the Morbihan coast, was
famous for prehistoric, megalithic remains.
  Sounds mildly boring but at least worthy of a quick look, right?
  This little stretch of Brittany is not just interesting; it rendered me speechless.
  I was expecting some rocks -- aligned of course and kind of meaningful
for their testament to history and the presumed spirituality of the scene -- but
I was not prepared for fields of these things. 
Literally THOUSANDS of them.

  Is Carnac a holy place?
  I'm not sure -- but I will tell you this.
    It gave me the heebee jeebies -- in  a good way.
  If rows of isolated neolithic monuments is not your cup of tea, I understand.
Initially I felt the same way -- until I saw them silently standing, in perfect parallel lines.
  Eerily mesmerizing, their puzzle is one you'll long to solve. 
That's when I made the effort to learn a little about dolmens and menhirs
and words I had absolutely no interest in previously. 
Trust me, it's the best kind of whodunit and even Sherlock Holmes (preferably
Benedict Cumberbatch) couldn't come up with who-what-when-where-why.

  Suffice it to say,
A Worthwhile Stop.

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If you're looking for a fresh look at France or at life in general, search no further.
  The Brittany experience is fresher than the seafood you'll soon be gorging on.

  Go ahead, overindulge.
Unprocessed, genuine, original.
This region will delight you in a tickle-me-Elmo way. 
Brittany, it's a giggle -- and a sure thing.


Go for it!
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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