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Remarkable Rennes, a Recipe for Fun

4/18/2016

1 Comment

 
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When in Rennes, do as the Romans do. 
Perhaps that's not the way St. Ambrose voiced his famous quote,
but it seems the ancient Romans who colonized Rennes left their
mark in a way we modern lovers of life can appreciate and embrace.

So what exactly do the good citizens of Rennes do?
They dig into life with gusto.

This city is one big party. 
Street food, live music, tempting bars, Rennes is a college town
with attitude, a slice of Brittany you've not seen before.

Both avant-garde and original, the city is capped off by a mountain
of good-natured, progressive-thinking, hard-drinking university students
who pepper the stage with an unforgettable mix of colorful fun.
There's no other place quite like it.

It's a city made for people watching.
Filled with smiling and thirsty young scholars, get ready to flash back
to your favorite college memories -- those non-comformist "good old days"
of crazy styles, crazier hair, and laid back cool.
Maybe this is where the term laissez-faire originated??
Do as you choose.
  And if you're in Rennes, you've already chosen well.


School Days, School Daze --- I'm not too old to remember.....

"A telephone survey says that 51 percent of college students drink
until they pass out at least once a month.
The other 49 percent didn't answer the phone."
Craig Kilborn, entertainer

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We travel to absorb culture, magnificent sights and riveting history,
imagining we're très distingué as we enrich our intellect
and pad our ego with uplifting experiences. 
Hoping to enhance our self worth, we create a vision of
self-improvement through disciplined adventures.

So would you forgive me if I told you we went to Rennes simply to have fun?
And we succeeded, jumping headfirst into Renne's fountain-of-youth.

Accounting for your time, making sure every last second is
an elevating experience can be a drag if you take yourself too seriously.
For those days, a small cafe, a little curiosity and a thirst for some
 spirited conversation hits the nail right on the head.

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Half-timbered houses line the cobblestone streets of Rennes' historical center.  Largely pedestrianized, these street are made for long lazy afternoons.
Cafés, bars, creperies and book stores are lively almost any hour of the day or night.

You may be tempted to think this is just one more cute town
in the most adorable region in France -- but you would be wrong. 
Once you step outside the medieval center, you'll discover Brittany's capital city
is hi-tech and modern, well respected for its two universities as well as
a very fine study abroad program for American high school students.

  Don't miss the gorgeous 19th century Opéra de Rennes on Place de la Marie,
just a few steps away from a lovely 17th century city hall.
Several very fine churches and a planetarium will keep your camera busy
and whatever you do, don't miss the Musée des Beaux Arts with its
  magnificent collection that spans the centuries.
From Rubens and Da Vinci to the the more modern Pont Aven School,
 this fine arts gallery is capped off by a marvelous Picasso.
 
The city was nearly destroyed by the great fire of 1720 and still later
 suffered grave damage from Allied bombing during WWII. 
But you can't keep a good city down.
The Parc du Thabor is a lovely botanical garden (roses and an aviary!) that
brings peace and serenity to this hilltop slice of Breton heaven.

Rennes' citizens take great care of their precious city. 
We noticed how diligently store owners, students and visitors
took advantage of the city's centralized recycling bins. 
In 1998, it was Rennes that first brought easy access bike-sharing

 to the world, offering electronic kiosks with smart card technology.
There are numerous cycling routes in the city as well as an easy
connection to a more relaxing ride along the nearby canal.

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Fun, Fun, Fun.
The rue de la Soif (street of thirst) is the nickname locals call rue St-Michel.
Filled with bars and beer, it's a can't miss street of rollicking good times.
Pull up a chair and watch the show.

France is a country known for its love of festivals and Rennes has its share.
The Fest-Noz is a fun fest of music, dance and celebration.
It combines traditional Breton music, costuming and dance in a
manner that is more rock 'n roll than old-fashioned folk.

Les Tombées de la Nuit (Nightfall Festival) brings a lot of artistic
surprises and revelry to city streets every summer,
showcasing daring displays of performance street art.

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Photo by Edouard Hue - CC-BY-SA 2.0
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Market Day was one of the highlights of our trip.
Saturday morning in Rennes always starts with a blowout marché
on Place des Lices in the central historical district.

  The plaza is filled with gorgeous fruit and vegetables, offered by local producers.
Start your day off right with a wonderfully evil & buttery kouign-amann,
Brittany's most famous pastry, resolving never again to eat pastry outside of France.

    There are two huge indoor halls with every foodstuff known to mankind and the chance to get a closeup look at local life in Brittany.
Marvel at seafood stalls that actually smell good -- and start planning your lunch....

Speaking of food, Rennes will feed you in a way you will never forget.
  Every Breton specialty is offered -- DON'T MISS MY FAVORITE, GALETTES SAUCISSE CREPES* -- as well as a very diverse selection of other cuisines.
We enjoyed dinner one night in an upscale wine bistro and another
 time a feast of couscous royale in a very authentic Moroccan restaurant.
These meals and good times will be remembered forever.

*Galettes Saucisse Crepes - grilled merguez sausage nestled in a buckwheat pancake.
 
Best Street Food Ever!

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Under the youthful night sky of Rennes, I was happy to put away
my adult compulsion to behave at all costs.
  Being a kid again is a relief and though I doubt we could keep up with the
party outside our door, we had a very fine time crossing the line.

"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria."
Benjamin Franklin

My favorite journal entry simply says
"We did a lot of nothing and it was a very good day."
For this pushy, restless, always-on-the-go travel zealot, that says a lot.


Our endless search for life balance -- you know, broadening our horizons
and prioritizing our spiritual health -- can be won as easily
 as finding a connection to a great neighborhood in a big-hearted city.
And for that, you cannot go wrong with remarkable Rennes.


"And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one more for dessert."
Kris Kristofferson, songwriter 'Sunday Morning Coming Down'

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1 Comment

How to Make Love to the Louvre

4/9/2016

8 Comments

 
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The Louvre.
Admit it, on your first trip to Paris, going there was
something you just wanted to get “done” -- like
 taking medicine or touching up your roots.
Love it or loathe it, IT'S WHAT YOU DO.

  So you acquiesce to the prevailing travel wisdom and go by the book,
hunting down Mona (Lisa), Venus (de Milo), and scary images of vicious wars, dramatic seascapes and religious revolutionaries. 
 Feeling about as much enthusiasm as watching paint dry,
who could blame you for thinking just get it done,
tick off another notch off the bucket list....

STOP!

 There's a larger truth to this.
In reality, the Louvre is outrageously magical, a chance to see
the world in all its spellbinding, historical, and inspirational glory.
And, you’re free to roam as you please.
  Can you think of a better deal that that?

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With the Louvre, It's all about approach and attitude.
Relax, there is no test at the end of your visit. 
Just like its host city, the Louvre radiates inspiration and being in the moment. 
This is Paris at its juiciest so get ready to savor some very delicious moments
and don't let anyone tell you it's a drag.

  Yes, the size is staggering -- formidable, heavy, intimidating -- but
when you think about it, this is what first class travel is all about.
There is nothing restrained about this museum or its treasures.
As the largest monument in all of France,
  the Louvre is twice as ambitious as anything you can imagine.
Frescoes from Pompeii, hieroglyphics from Egypt, tapestry, jewels and
maybe the kitchen sink, it's all here under one roof.
So buckle up.

If you think it's too hard or too much, stop worrying over the Big Picture.
  Make a plan.  Choose a field of concentration.
  Look for something that you might singularly be able
to get into -- such as European Sculpture, Egyptian Antiquity,
 the French Crown Jewels, whatever floats your boat -- and follow that path.
Rather than following the road much traveled of typical Louvre
 wanderers -- bewildered and befuddled -- who suffer through
  a spreadsheet of masterpieces with all the other sheep,
you'll be able to dive right in and engage with the exhibits.

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So put away your phone, put on your comfiest shoes
and get ready to travel through the centuries.

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The Louvre is the world's finest playground.
  Don't think museum, think theater - a virtual stage that will come to life if you let it.
Entertainment -- amusement -- recreation -- it's all on tap.
Try getting into a stage show or concert hall for such a bargain.
But that's just half the story.

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As you walk the magnificent corridors of masterpieces,
don't forget, this was first and foremost the former home of french kings,
real people with names like Francois and Charles and Louis.
  Even before you enter the building, think of the first french family
trying to re-make this palace into their home sweet home.

  And once inside, amidst the collections, don't miss examining
every nook & cranny on your house tour. 
House Hunters International on steroids -- with the very best address!
The Louvre is the historic bulls-eye of the map of Paris with its
twenty arrondissements arranged in a clockwise snail pattern
 all wrapped around the 1st -- right where you're standing.

Look up, look down, look all around so you don't miss one exquisite detail
of the majestically painted ceilings and gold carvings that surround you. 
Stop and think about adolescent monarchs running through the hallways
  and courtesans revealing their "assets" in secret chambers. 
Was it more prison than home?  More hell or more heaven?
It's fun to speculate.
As for the entourage that lived in the palace, well, I think you can see
why Louis XIV and company eventually fled to Versailles.

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I've always had a "thing" for faces --  quirky characters with curious
features -- raw emotion and intimate experience at a glance. 
The Louvre is a virtual potluck of faces, assimilating humankind of every persuasion,
its collections flawlessly executing a picture of life across the centuries.
 
Let's pretend your specific interest is sculpture.
 Capturing different angles as you move around each piece, you're moved nearly
to tears by the chiseled depth and dynamic impression the artist has created.
  So why not visit the Louvre JUST to look at sculpture?
Save the rest* for another time and focus your love and
attention on the gloriously diverse galleries of sculpted art.

*actually, you'll never see everything -- with well over 380,000** pieces in its collections,
it's not even worth worrying about....
**source: Wikipedia

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OK, you're going to give it a try.
We'll stick to our chosen field of interest, sculpture.
  What should you see?  Where do you begin?

True, the Louvre is stupendously large and intimidating.
  Why waste your precious energy focusing on what you can't see?
  Resolve upfront that you will not let your uncertainty
keep you from enjoying what you DO see.

Everyone (with a pulse) enjoys looking at Greek gods and goddesses.
Try starting there.
And don't forget the Marley and Puget courtyards -- definitely a
worthwhile search -- and oh! -- Michelangelo's slaves.....
Get the picture?  It's easy once you get started.

"Think left and think right and think low and think high.
Oh the thinks you can think up if only you try."
Dr. Seuss

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“We were approaching the Louvre, but he paused to lean on the parapet,
and we both stood there contemplating the passing boats, which dazzled us
with their spotlights. ‘Look at them,’ I said, because I needed to talk about something, afraid that he might get bored and go home. ‘They only see what the spotlights
show them. When they go home home, they’ll say they know Paris. Tomorrow
they’ll go and see the Mona Lisa and claim they’ve visited the Louvre.
But they don’t know Paris and have never really been to the Louvre.
All they did was go on a boat and look at a painting, one painting, instead of looking at a whole city and trying to find out what’s happening in it, visiting the bars,
going down the streets that don’t appear in any of the tourist guides,
and getting lost in order to find themselves again.
It’s the difference between watching a porn movie and making love.”

Paul Coelho, author, quote from "The Zahir"

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Yes, I love the Louvre.
  And yes, I, too, totally screwed up my first visit
by relentlessly searching for the "important" stuff.
  Hello!
  If it's behind these legendary walls, it's in the big leagues.
So please, if you do yourself just one favor, stop being so logical
and simply walk around on blind faith, feeling your way around
and uncovering your own imagination.


 Once the collection of kings and queens, consider your good fortune,
the privilege to see such treasure in the first place.
  You didn't need to be born to royalty or fight a Napoleonic war to
   secure these rewards -- or as the emperor referred to them, contributions.
You're able to view the world's greatest art at will.
  As a guest in the grandest home in the french kingdom,
the Louvre is your oyster and you'll be richly rewarded just for showing up.

Enjoy what you see and save the Napoleon III apartments
or the 19th century french paintings and old Dutch masters for next time. 
Yes indeed, you'll be back.
You recognize a good house tour when you see one and it didn't hurt one bit.

"Keep good company. That is, go to the Louvre."
Paul Cezanne, artist

Optimism.  Faith.  Life.  Liberty.  Pleasure.
Definitely not a dull day at a dusty old museum.
  With the right attitude, you're in for a glorious treat.

It's all happening in downtown Paris at the one and only
brilliant-marvelous-more-for-your-money Louvre
.

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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