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All Powerful Albi

9/29/2014

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Albi is one of the most astonishing small cities I've ever visited in France.
It's a city of conflict - at once utterly captivating - and completely unnerving.
Best known for its landmark site, Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, Albi's architecture,
history, and hair-raising mystique wowed me right out of my shoes.

Situated in the Tarn department of the Midi-Pyrenees in southwestern France,
Albi isn't exactly a household word for travelers.
  But it should be.

  If you have time to get off the beaten path on your next trip to France,
this UNESCO World Heritage Site
is definitely worth a detour from Toulouse or Carcassonne -
or, with a bit more effort, from spectacular Paris.
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 Albi is nicknamed The Red City for the unusually red local brick that's used
for practically everything, including its most famous landmarks,
the Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile and the adjoining Bishop's Palace
(Palais de la Berbie), home to the Musée de Toulouse-Lautrec.

Nearly everything in France's beguiling Southwest is
handsome and inviting and Albi certainly fits that mold.

  But you'll forever remember this town for something else.

The story of Albi is a gruesome tale that is unconditionally terrifying.
  When you stand outside the imposing facade of its one-of-a-kind cathedral,
you're likely going to feel small and inadequate, intimidated by the
sheer size and fortress-like structure of the solid brick mass.
  It's unlike any other cathedral in France.

I'd call it frightfully beautiful.

Once you enter the solemn house of worship, you're greeted again by stature -- unbelievable height and depth -  but here, austerity gives
way to a wonderful world of color, pomp and pageant.
The colors are arresting, mostly blues, golds and silver.
  The ceiling seems to go on forever, a good thing because it paints a
picture of practically every high and low of The Bible,
both Old and New Testament.

Some of the decoration is surprising, at times outright contemporary with
  touches of striking geometric design carefully assigned here and there.

  It's absolutely breathtaking.
And then, just when you start to calm down and get used to the infinite
size of the cathedral, out of nowhere you'll get a swift kick in the derrière
-- and you know you'll never look at cathedrals in quite the same way again.

What will stir your imagination and make you long for a
good stiff drink is the mural of heaven and hell on Judgement Day.
Heaven is, of course, quite wonderful.
  Angelic proportions and white robed apostles provide a calming sedative.
But your thoughts won't linger here for long. 

In the blink of an eye, you'll want to start working on your own end journey,
making sure that when your time comes,
you'll end up "upstairs" instead of "down".

And I do mean down.

  The vision of Hell is dark and unimaginable,
worse than your most vexing nightmares.
  The punishment that Hell doles out is beyond anything
Hollywood has ever dreamed up on its best day.
  Godzilla is a kitty-cat compared to the depths of everlasting fire.

  Based on the seven deadly sins of The Church, punishment
is assigned to the unlucky according to their particular sin.

  The torment is absolutely hideous - yet you won't be able to tear
your eyes off the suffering of the damned.
  A disaster movie that is thousands of years old.
That's when it hits you.

  This is not a church of love.
  It's a church of wealth and intimidation.
  It's not a house of God.
This belongs to a dictator, a disciplinarian, a despot.
  The oppressor rules and it's a wretched place if you don't play by their rules.
  You are nothing but a minion, less than insignificant.

And the hypocrisy doesn't stop there.
The cathedral was designed so that the masses were kept from "seeing" the monks and other church superiors in the central choir.
  A rood screen separates the commoners from the anointed one percent.
  This cathedral was definitely not built for the people.

Why build a church so obviously overdosing on testosterone?


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The Catholic Church was losing its grip on the locals in the region.
A new Christian religion was born, one that didn't answer to Rome.
  It was a church of love, no membership required, unpretentious & common.
They called themselves Cathars, preferring the simple life, humble & homegrown,
shunning the material world and the trappings of Rome.

The Pope and the King of France conspired to whip the Cathars in shape
and assert their authority over the region.

  In 1208, they made war on the whole region, boldly proclaiming,
"Kill them all and let God sort them out."
  Between gouging out eyes and burning "heretics" at the stake,
they got rid of the sect one way or another.

The Catholic Church then needed to leave a reminder of their absolute power,
one that projected unabridged
authority.
The Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile was born.
The building began in 1282 and was completed 200 years later.

Imagine living at that time, watching with awe as the massive
fortress-church rose high over the peaceful southern landscape.
Envision a local peasant walking into the great cathedral for the first time,
taking it all in, engulfed by beauty --- and then facing the creepy crawlies of Hell.
  That'll teach them.

The Inquisition finished off any thoughts of cheating on Rome.
The massive, combat-ready Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile
  reminded every living soul of who's da' boss every single day.

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Are you intimidated yet?
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Luckily, you can escape your thoughts of Judgement Day just as quickly
as a walk across the courtyard where you'll find the museum that houses the largest collection of paintings and posters by local genius Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

The intimate Musée de Toulouse-Lautrec is housed inside
the Palais
de la Berbie (Bishop's Palace).
  It feels more like a home than a museum, warmer than most art installations.

Expect to see a lot, including the slow development of Lautrec's style,
beginning as a traditional but talented realist and evolving
into his glory days as famed graphic illustrator.

  Other artists are exhibited, including Matisse, Gauguin and Georges de la Tour.
  But my money is on the colorful namesake of the museum.
Frustrated with his physical ailments, the descendant of the Counts of Toulouse
is best known for his portraits of prostitutes, dancers and the
bohemian lifestyle of the down and out in Paris.

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I couldn't get enough of this museum; it's that good.
  Filled with portraits of gaudy and colorful characters,
this isn't just another art museum.

  The views of the river and garden, too, make for a total experience.
The mansion itself is a spectacle.
  I saw it before the re-vamp in 2012 so I'm hoping the floors
still creak - at once intimate and a bit funky.
I especially fell for the rooms that held his unprecedented posters,
feeling as if I had lived in another day and time.
  Allow at least two hours for your visit and feel yourself transported back
to the days of the Moulin Rouge and absinthe orgies.

As a matter of fact, as you plan your trip to Albi, I suggest you mix up
a cocktail that's been attributed to the little French artist.

Le Treblement de Terre (The Earthquake):
  Take 3 parts Absinthe and 3 parts cognac; shake with ice; serve in a wine goblet. 
Feel the earth move and prepare for a headache in the morning.

Toulouse Lautrec's contribution to the art world came on strong like good drink.  Death came far too quickly, but luckily for us,
we have the city of Albi to thank for sharing the wealth.

Happy travels to Albi!

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The bridge (Pont Vieux) is a stunning sight, especially at night.
The red brick changes color depending on time of day.

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Francois' Fontainebleau Facelift

8/27/2014

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It's immense, it's royal, it's over-the-top.
As home to countless kings and one emperor, it must be Versailles, right?

  Au contraire!
We're talking about the amazing chateau and estate of Fontainebleau.
Always the bridesmaid and never the bride, Fontainebleau usually gets
second billing to the fabled world of Versailles.

  I'm not here to throw stones at the palace of our favorite Sun King but here's why I think Fontainebleau should be near the TOP of your your next Paris To-Do List.


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Francois I, better known as Francois Premier
Fontainebleau epitomizes the greatest hits of French architecture.
  This UNESCO World Heritage site, accessible to any Paris traveler,
(a 40-minute train ride away from the gare de Lyon), was born in the 12th Century
as a medieval hunting lodge.  It took on new life when King Francois I transformed it into his preferred residence in the 16th Century.  He longed to create a "new Rome" at Fontainebleau, importing some of Italy's best Renaissance artists and architects.

King Francois I is most famous for his stealthy courting of Leonardo Da Vinci, finally convincing the painter/sculptor/poet/scientist/inventor to leave the Italian state in order to shed his grace and legacy on France.  But what is less known is that Francois set his cap (or should I say crown) on a number of other Italian artisans in his quest to make his French kingdom into the Renaissance capitol of the world.

You may well wonder exactly what is The Renaissance.
I've always found it a bit confusing because it refers to a period that
advanced a re-birth of culture from the days of antiquity.
  They were trying hard to put the bad old days of medieval decline behind them.
In an effort to create modernity, they looked to history long BEFORE the dark ages of medieval Europe, the years where Greece and Rome were superpower superstars.
  It seems a bit perplexing to look backwards in order to look forward but that's exactly how they re-invented art, architecture, literature, language and philosophy, beginning first in Italy, ultimately finding the way to France via King Francois I.

When Europe was transformed from a medieval swamp into a Renaissance marvel,
the King of France naturally wanted to be front and center.  Fontainebleau became his "baby" -- his personal favorite among a long list of residences he fought to restore (Amboise, Chambord, Blois and the Louvre just to name a few).

The results of his thoughtful effort are fantastic.  Hunting lodge begone!  This is a graceful palace, both dignified and resplendent.  More than 1500 rooms make for more of a city than a chateau.  The murals, chandeliers and stucco relief sculpture will immediately fight for your attention.  Before long you'll be tempted to stand on your head to gawk at the decorated ceilings.  Tapestries by the dozen compete for best of show and in no time you'll be tempted to go for a joust
or a spot of archery, transfixed by this new old world.

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 Outside the chateau, the big wow, without question, is the horseshoe shaped grand staircase (Escalier du Fer-à-Cheval) where Napoleon bade his final
au revoir to his tired but loyal troops before going into exile.

  Can't you picture that scene?  

"I go, but you, my friends, will continue to serve France.
  Her happiness was my only thought.  It will still be the object
of my wishes.
Do not regret my fate; if I have consented to survive, it is to serve your glory.
I intend to write the history of the great achievements we have performed together. Adieu, my friends. Would I could press you all to my heart."

Napoleon Bonaparte – April 20, 1814

The day we visited, we were lucky to see a troop of costumed actors as they readied for a re-enactment of those times. 
It was on a Sunday with beautiful blue skies, so it was busy but not crowded.  Our visit felt more like dropping by a
rich uncle's villa than touring an iconic landmark.  The pace was slow, a welcome relief from that horrible herding effect you feel at some other well-known sites.


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Francois I opened the first royal tapestry workshop at court in Fontainebleau.
From 1530-1610, it served as forerunner to the more famous Gobelins Factory.
  The tapestry works nearly overshadow paintings at this chateau,
again setting it apart from Versailles.

Fontainebleau inspired Francois I in his quest to guide his kingdom to a modern age.  Here he plotted exploration of the New World, standardized the French language and promoted a civilized society, encouraging cultural growth and activity.
The arts were nurtured under his rule with a passion for
poetry, dancing, philosophy and music.

Even today, Fontainebleau serves as a backdrop for learning.
  The chateau is now occupied by the Ecole d'Art Américaines, established by General Pershing at the end of WWI.  It includes a music conservatory that has been served by a long list of famous composers and musicians including Maurice Ravel, Igor Stravinski, and Arthur Rubenstein to name as few.  The Ecole des Beaux Arts stresses architecture in particular and together, the Fontainebleau Schools nail it as another winning collaboration between France and the United States of America.

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Yes, those are breasts. Named "Nature" by Niccola Pericoli, another Italian artist who helped shape the chateau.
John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the son of Standard Oil founder
John D. Rockefeller, was instrumental in yet another restoration effort.
He offered millions of dollars to the French for the much needed re-hab after
World War I (also used for the chateau of Versailles and the Cathedral of Reims), just a portion of an estimated $537,000,000 legacy of philanthropy over his lifetime.

  The French government rewarded him with their most prestigious merci,
the Grand-Croix de la Legion d'honneur. 

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The surrounding grounds and forests of Fontainebleau are as well known
to the average Parisian as those of Versailles.

The "Bleau" as they lovingly refer to it, offers rock climbing, hiking and bird-watching to all those wishing for some fresh air and an escape from the city.
There are over 65 square miles of greenery, including oak, pine and beech trees
in such abundance you'll feel hundreds of miles away from Paris.

  Wildflowers, mushrooms and thousands of species of animals, birds and insects make this forest into a virtual fairytale where you'll expect to run into damsels and knights.  Here you can write your own Fontainebleau story, "Once Upon a Time....."

The former royal hunting grounds offer solace to wildlife and nature, including wild boar, fox, elk and some 250 different species of birds.
Many visitors get so swept up in the beauty of
the forest, they miss the chateau completely -- but that would be a shame.
  Take some time also for the gardens and canals that surround the chateau.
 
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"Not much was really invented during the Renaissance,
if you don't count modern civilization."
P.J. O'Rourke

Thank goodness for the Renaissance.
  Thank goodness for Francois I, Napoleon B. and John D.

Fontainebleau's facelift offers a grand opportunity to
discover another time, another place
in beautiful France.

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Do You Know Nantes?

8/20/2014

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The LU Biscuit Factory is now a hip arts center with galleries and bars
Whenever I plan a trip to Paris, I also organize a side-trip.

  Depending on the length of the visit, the pleasure trek can be a simple one-day excursion to some nearby town such as St-Germain-en-Laye or Giverny or it can be a
more substantial look into the heart of France.
  For these, it's especially fun and easy to go there pre-Paris,
straight from the airport via the RATP.

In years prior, we had visited many chateaux in the Loire Valley but had overlooked
the Western Loire completely.  That was easy to remedy, starting with a trip to Nantes,
the capital of the Western Loire, referred to as the Loire-Atlantique.  It's a mix of the Loire and Brittany (Nantes was once the capital of Brittany) and offers the best of both.

In just a little over two hours, we whooshed past villages and wide open fields on the TGV,
soon to be rewarded with a virtual paradise of initiative and discovery.

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Nantes deserves far more attention from travelers than it gets.
It's impressive in so many ways.

Famous for its historic past (the Edict of Nantes and the horrific French slave trade),
Nantes is banking on its future with Les Machines de l'ile, a fantasyland of
creative thought and enterprise, linking everyone's favorite master of imagination,
legendary local writer Jules Verne with the mechanical genius of Leonardo da Vinci.
  This inspired ingenuity comes together via some of the best visionary craftsmen in France.

The miracle of the machines percolates with its star, a 40-foot tall elephant that roams the city.  Onlookers squeal with delight while 40+ riders at a time get an
up-close peek at his mechanical skeleton.
You have to see it to believe it.

  There's something for everyone at this cultural entertainment park, even for nerds like me.  Visitors are allowed to observe the creative gallery of the workshop from a balcony up above and the process, though tedious, is heart-stoppingly magical.
  Oh to be an artist or an engineer, you'll want to go back to school as soon
as you see these creative geniuses at work.


Their sweat is not in vain.  Les Machines de l'ile also boasts the biggest carousel I've ever seen -- three different tiers of fun, a visual fantasy that has moxie, allowing riders to work the levers and pulleys in exchange for more laughs and learning.  And that's just for starters.
  Mark this stop with a giant red X.
Don't miss it!

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The city is prosperous, engaging and easy to navigate.
  Much like Paris, the neighborhoods are distinctly different and you'll want to take your time strolling the easy, mostly pedestrianized streets of the city center.

The contrasts are startling.
There's a castle for starters, of course, like any good city of the Loire.
The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany is huge with too many towers to count.  Anne of Brittany is the star here as is the polished museum interior that serves as a regional vault of history.


Then there's the medieval Bouffay quarter, its charming cobbled streets lined with
crèperies and bars.  A university town, Nantes boasts a huge student population that enjoys hanging out in both stylish and not-so-stylish sidewalk venues all along this quartier. 

Much more elegant, the Passage Pommeraye is a 19th century arcade full of posh boutiques.  Filled with grecian statues and elegant columns, you'll think you're in the City of Light instead of a small city built on the tears of the slave trade.  Place Graslin and Place Royale both compete for elegant splendor.  The island of Feydeau is worthy of a good look, too, as are the opportunities to cruise the river in search of magnificent 19th century mansions.

All of these neighborhoods are easily in walking distance of each other but if you
prefer public transportation, the city's trams can't be beat.
As the European Union's Green Capitol (2013), Nantes takes pride in providing excellent transportation services be it tram, cruise-boat or ferry.
  Time Magazine once called Nantes the most livable city in France.
  I can believe it.

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Jules Verne captured the imagination of the world
If you're not yet convinced that Nantes is a mecca for inspired exploration, read a
novel or two by native son Jules Verne.  "Around the World in Eighty Days" and
"Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea" will get your mojo going.
Verne conjured up the most daring characters in fiction, virtually
inventing a new genre, now known as science fiction.
  Whether submarine or space travel inspires you, Nantes should get some of the credit
for his ambitious adventures.
There is a museum dedicated to his life and works.

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I can't "take" you to Nantes without a mention of food and drink.
  The distinct Muscadet-Sévre-et-Maine wine of the region is a pleasure, almost a relief, as it's easy to drink and a welcome new taste to lovers of white.  That, naturally, brings to mind a large platter of oysters, fresh from the sea, as delicious as any you'll ever taste.

The place to find these pleasures is a carnival for the eyes as well as your tummy.
  La Cigale is a head-turner and you'll marvel at its beauty and historically decorative
stage-presence even before you enjoy your first bite of dinner.
This must be where they came up with the expression "paint the town red" because
let me tell you, it's the perfect spot to do just that.
  The Belle Epoque styled brasserie has a stunner of a dining room, with tiled walls
and decorated ceilings, bustling servers and happy diners.

  I have wonderful memories of a particularly delicious steak tartare prepared tableside and a lovely bottle of champagne and .....yes, we painted the town red that evening....

It's the perfect place for a celebration.


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The Jardins des Plantes show off with both traditional and non-traditional floral displays
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Now, the bad news.
History has a way of raining on a nearly perfect parade but Nantes has even turned
its ugly past into a reason to be proud of the city.
  They have faced up to their dark history, a chronicle of shame that too many countries share.

The Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery stands on the same wharf where
slave ships, loaded with European commodities like fabric and liquor,
set sail for Africa to do business in the slave trade.
  The exchanged their wares for African victims turned slaves as well as sugar and coffee.

  There was a triangle between Africa, Nantes and the Caribbean and at the time (1685-1817), it was all legal.  Nantes became a rich town steeped with merchants and
wealthy traffickers who profited royally from the practice.


The new city of Nantes has faced up to its old crimes against humanity with the quiet memorial.  Promoting human rights, the moving tribute displays the Universal Declaration of Human Rights along with the word Freedom expressed in nearly 50 different languages.
  It's a moving portrait of a city that cares.

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The Chateau of the Dukes of Brittany is both noble and useful.
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Anne of Brittany presents a softer side just outside the castle
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Youthful energy surrounds you on nearly every corner of the city
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Like many French towns, Nantes celebrates life with numerous festivals throughout the year
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La Cigale means The Grasshopper and promotes her feminine vision at every turn
I hope you'll add Nantes to your growing list of French cities to visit.
  It's well worth the time and effort! 


From Nantes, it's easy to travel by train to nearby Angers and Chinon --
but that's a story for another day.

Cheers to Nantes & the Loire Atlantique!


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No worries, there are no bad meals at La Cigale, only amusing decoration.
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Masted ships line the port for special events in Nantes.
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Fresh bounty from the nearby sea awaits you at the Nantes market.
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Passage Pommeraye is fit for a queen
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A King, a Heart & a Headless Martyr

8/13/2014

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I see dead people.

  Before you think I'm quoting old movies again, check this out.

The recumbent effigy of a king.
  Not just any king, but my personal favorite, Francois I of France.
These tootsies, and many more like them, can be seen in
one of France's most architecturally and historically significant churches, the Basilica of Saint-Denis.


Just minutes from Paris on the Metro (Line 13), the medieval abbey church
is known for both its architectural and historical clout:

- It was the first successful attempt in the annals of cathedral building
to transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture.
  The framework is a marvel of daring design, both lofty and filled with light.


- Perhaps most remarkable, it's the burial address for the majority of
French kings dating
from the 10th to the 18th centuries.

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Saint-Denis boasts all but three of France's long dynasty of kings.
  It's a Who's Who of the royal directory including not just the crowned honchos
but their queens and other persons of nobility as well.

Familiar names such as Dagobert, Clovis, Charles Martel, multiple Henrys,
Charles and Louis dot the landscape.  Even the heart of the Dauphin,
the boy who would have been King (son of doomed Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette),
is interred inside one of the crypt walls. 

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Built on the same site of the tomb of legendary Saint Denis, the headless saint best
known (on the edifice of Notre Dame!) for losing his head in battle and
carrying it up the hill from Montmartre to its current location.
  This is one saint who knew how to attract a following.

Even Joan of Arc paid tribute to Saint Denis.  In the 15th century, she paused from battle long enough to make the pilgrimage to this cathedral, along with some
160,000  annual visitors today.


The basilica showcases a blue book of French kings, queens and royal personage.
From King Dagobert (who had the inspiration to honor Saint-Denis on this site) to Henri II, Catherine de Medicis, the Sun King Louis XIV, beheaded Louis XVI
and wife Marie Antoinette, it's a lesson in history that's both
reverent and alarmingly entertaining.

The cathedral is a grand tribute, even for those used to the royal treatment.
  History and art collide on an awe-inspiring scale.
  It's a memory bank of France, all in one spot.
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You've seen Saint-Denis as a featured player on the front of Notre Dame
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Stained glass, relics, and museum quality artifacts all permeate your senses.
  But what really stands out is discovering the messy history of the basilica.

  During the anti-royalty nonsense that marked the French Revolution, the historic landmark was ravaged, the rabble dumping all the tombs and bones into a mass grave.  Radical gangs had taken over and nothing, not even kings -- not even
a revered bastion of The Church, would stand in the way of mob "justice".


It was years later, in 1805, when Napoleon Bonaparte took the reigns of historical justice and restored the church, hoping to rescue the put-upon royals from their mass mound of dirt.  After his reign, his successors uncovered the regal bones and placed them back into more fitting tombs, forever sealing the royal history
and (mostly) restoring their dignity.


Napoleon understood the importance of a sacred national history,
both for France and for the world.
 


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Attire and Accessories Fit for a King are on Display at St. Denis
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Gothic is not just about about pointed arches & flying buttresses, it's also about beauty and detail.
Like many monuments that honor famous people, it's the small details that impress.  You'll see royal dogs sitting protectively at the feet of their deceased noble families and angels sitting on the shoulders of heaven-bound monarchs.
Lions made of marble keep tabs on their kingly treasure,
a fitting image of immortality.


  Death has rarely looked so attractive and it's doubtful even the great minds of Madison Avenue
could promote these crowned heads and their heavenly kingdom so well.


While most visitors probably assume French royalty would be buried in
Père Lachaise or Versailles, the fact remains that you won't find them
anywhere but here in Saint-Denis.  
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A gritty suburb for sure, but well worth the short metro ride from Paris
A northern suburb of Paris, the township of St. Denis is not known as a nice
place to visit.  That's a bit unfair.  It's true, there has been trouble in the past
with fiery demonstrations and mischief-making headlines.
  But the truth is far less dramatic.

It's a quick and direct walk from the Metro (stop at Basilique St. Denis) to the church.
  The only activity in the immediate area is pretty much restricted to tourists coming to the church and shoppers stopping at their favorite market just across the way.
  The St. Denis market is a marvel and worth a quick look.
 

Please add this destination to your list of must-sees.  When planning your trip to Paris, a good itinerary should include this terrific storehouse of history and art.
Any true lover of art, architecture and history will find heaven in a visit to the
Basilica of Saint-Denis.

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Oradour-sur-Glane

8/9/2014

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In John F. Kennedy's words:
"Mankind must put an end to war before war puts an end to mankind."

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The images here are sickening.

  French school children and families alike come here to pay their respects.
  It's been over a decade since I last walked the sad, dead streets of Oradour-sur-Glane, my eyes open wider than ever before to the horrors of war.

On June 10, 1944, six hundred forty-two men, women, and children were
massacred here.  Just days after the Allied landing on the beaches of Normandy,
a furious German SS unit took their frustration out on a sleepy little village
in the heart of France.


The heartless slaughter of an innocent population is forever written in stone and decay.  President Charles de Gaulle preserved the horror in its original state,
forever marking the spot of the savagery imposed by the Nazis.

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As we walked the streets of Oradour-Sur-Glane, we were struck by the preservation of the most minute details, including a child's tricycle, a sewing machine, farm implements and little reminders of everyday life that typify a country village.

  It reminded me of a ruin like Pompeii, except instead of preserving the beauty of a town suddenly buried by volcanic ash, this illustrates the crass ugliness of war.

Silence reigns but not just for reasons of respect.
  My throat was bone dry as I experienced an overwhelming sick feeling,
my thoughts grappling with real life death and destruction. Bearing witness to a completely annihilated ghost village is far more wrenching
than anything you've seen on the silver screen .

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The villagers were likely looking forward to the end of the long war.  After D-Day, all of Europe could see the forest for the trees, confident the nightmare would soon end.  Picture it, everyone going about their daily business, not expecting to become
part of the narrative of war atrocities for all time.
Schools, cafés, and shops were full of life.

Out of nowhere, the SS arrived, wanting to make a statement, submitting to their bloodthirsty urges.  They brutally rounded up every villager and visitor alike, separating the men from the women and children. The men were led to several outbuildings and shot on the spot, supposedly first shooting the victims in
the leg to incite agony and bring about a slow death.  Afterwards, they set the same buildings on fire to cover up their crimes.

The women and children were taken into the church and burned alive.
Burned alive, not in some medieval tale of woe but in a civilized hamlet populated with the kind of people who are your next-door-neighbors.
  Only a few people escaped, eventually telling the story of the martyred town.

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What is most striking today is the news that one of the former member of this
SS unit has been charged with murder connected to this travesty 70 years
after the fact.  In January 2014, an 88-year-old German national was charged in connection with the massacre.  He denies his involvement.
  Makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up, doesn't it?

In 2013, German President Joachim Gauck and
French President Francois Hollande visited Oradour-sur-Glane.

  Gauck was the first German president to step foot into the ruined town.
It's good to remember ghosts of the past and noble to pursue
demons who deserve to be behind bars.
But......
  Can we ever bring peace to such a miserable place and time?

The best we can hope for is to REMEMBER the town, its people and the reasons we pray for peace.
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John Lennon's words bring hope:
  "Imagine all the people living life in peace.
  You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one.
  I hope someday you'll join us and the world will be as one.
"
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Edith Piaf - The Voice

8/3/2014

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My mom always took special pride that she saw Edith Piaf perform in Paris.
As a Parisian, she took pleasure in the torch singer's special brand of entertainment.
  No one has ever come close to matching Ms. Piaf's tormented vibrato and
melodramatic notes.  She invented her own unique brand,
becoming the iconic Voice of France.

Piaf's life has been debated and overdrawn, resulting in countless histories, myths and legends about the singer.  The Marion Cotillard movie ("La Vie en Rose") of 2007 brought Edith
Piaf's face and voice to a fresh audience.  Yet here we are, gasping with wonder and
awe as soon as she opens her mouth and lets loose with That Voice.  Nicknamed
The Little Sparrow, she was teeny tiny, just 4'8" with a size 34 shoe (kids' size 3 according
to Zappo's).  Her plain dress (black, of course!) did not make her fodder for fashion spreads.
She was no Beyoncé.

Edith Piaf's melodies were purely mid-century but her lyrics (she wrote most of her own)
came straight from her lacerated heart.
No matter what decade dictates your musical preference, La Môme remains in style.

  How she loved men!  And life!  And drink......and unfortunately in her later years, painkillers.  Edith Piaf died at the age of 47 of liver failure.  She was wracked with the pain of arthritis and hooked on painkillers and morphine.  Her husband, 20 years her junior, drove her body in secret from the French Riviera all the way to Paris to please her fans.  The archbishop of Paris
forbade her mass but 40,000 mourners showed up at Père Lachaise to pay their respects.

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Though better known for the standards "La Vie en Rose" and "Non, Je ne
Regrette Rien", my personal favorite has always been "Milord".  Get a taste of
her lyrics below.  Although it refers to a girl from the port or the docks,
I've always believed the song was about a streetwalker, a prostitute who had enough coins to sit in a café and admire a well-to-do British gentleman (Milord). 

Come along, Milord!
Sit at my table;
It is so cold, outside,
Here it's comfortable.
Relax, Milord
And make yourself at ease,
Your troubles on my heart
And your feet on a chair
I know you, Milord,
You've never seen me,
I'm just a girl from the docks,
Just a shadow of the street... Yet, I crossed you,
While you were passing yesterday,
You were so proud,
God! The sky made you perfect:

Your silk scarf
Floating on your shoulders,
You were so beautiful
You could have been mistaken for the king...
You were walking victoriously

A woman on your arm,
My God! ... How beautiful she was...
It makes my blood run cold..



Taken from http://lyricstranslate.com/en/milord-milord.html#ixzz38nnDfDqc


A bit further in the song, she also sings:

Come into my kingdom.
I heal remorse.
I sing romance.
I sing about Milords who are unlucky.
Look at me, Milord.
You've never seen me before....

Was she singing about herself?  I love the reference to "her kingdom."
  Supposedly, she grew up in her grandmother's brothel
after being abandoned by her parents.  And yet she loved to sing about love and hope.
  Piaf was sassy; she had guts, supposedly even outsmarting some Nazi bigshots
as she helped local Jews outwit their captors.
 

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Edith Piaf was born Edith Giovanna Gassion in Belleville, a place you'd call
the "wrong side of the tracks" in her day.  Local legend has it that two
gendarmes delivered her on the steps of a slum building in the offbeat quartier.

These days, Belleville is an up and coming neighborhood, still saucy but with a good mix of people, restaurants and art. It's particularly well known for street art, where graffiti is
actually encouraged.  Rue Dénoyez is filled with exuberant displays of street art culture
  and local galleries line several other streets and alleys.  Edith Piaf would have been proud.
  She displayed passion and hope no matter what came her way.

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Parc de Belleville is GORGEOUS!
Ms. Piaf's many lovers (including Yves Montand whose career she helped launch) may have caused her much heartache but they also stretched her musical talents into territory
few have wandered.  Many people in the arts have succumbed to their temptations.  We've witnessed individual triumphs & tragedies from any number of "artistic types".
  Amy Winehouse, Janis Joplin, Billie Holiday, Patsy Cline all died much too young
and under tragic circumstances, but I can't think of one other torch singer that
could belt it out the way she did for an entire nation.

Her star rose even after WWII.  She scored two televised performances on
The Ed Sullivan Show, quite an accomplishment for someone who seemed
the exact opposite of Hollywood glamor.


It's hard to compare The Little Sparrow to anyone else in today's music industry. There is simply no VOICE like hers and yet somewhere, somehow, I can feel Edith Piaf's heart beating when I think of Dolly Parton's iconic hymn "Coat of Many Colors".  Read these lyrics and see for yourself.  Perhaps Edith Piaf's brand is still rockin' today.


"Coat of Many Colors" by Dolly Parton

Back through the years
I go wonderin' once again
Back to the seasons of my youth
I recall a box of rags that someone gave us
And how my momma put the rags to use
There were rags of many colors
Every piece was small
And I didn't have a coat
And it was way down in the fog
Momma sewed the rags together
Sewin' every piece with love
She made my coat of many colors
That I was so proud of
As she sewed, she told a story
From the bible, she had read
About a coat of many colors
Joseph wore and then she said
Perhaps this coat will bring you
Good luck and happiness
And I just couldn't wait to wear it
And momma blessed it with a kiss

My coat of many colors
That my momma made for me
Made only from rags
But I wore it so proudly
Although we had no money
I was rich as I could be
In my coat of many colors
My momma made for me

So with patches on my britches
Holes in both my shoes
In my coat of many colors
I hurried off to school
Just to find the others laughing
And making fun of me
In my coat of many colors
My momma made for me

And oh I couldn't understand it

For I felt I was rich
And I told them of the love
My momma sewed in every stitch
And I told 'em all the story
Momma told me while she sewed
And how my coat of many colors
Was worth more than all their clothes

But they didn't understand it
And I tried to make them see
That one is only poor
Only if they choose to be
Now I know we had no money
But I was rich as I could be
In my coat of many colors
My momma made for me
Made just for me
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Piaf & Parton -- perhaps not as different as you think
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Lafayette and The Americans

7/28/2014

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You may wonder why a village in Brittany is the setting for a story about Lafayette (as he is known in America).  This is the Saint-Goustan quarter of Auray, a beautiful town situated on the Auray River, far from the action of the Revolutionary War.  It's unlikely that Major General Lafayette ever visited but he was the brains and the name behind the landing of
a very famous American on these shores.

Saint-Goustan welcomed American founding father Benjamin Franklin as he arrived to ask for support for the New World's fight against the tyranny of the British.  It was December of 1776 when Franklin disembarked on the banks of the river town.  Lafayette was instrumental in pushing for this support from the crown (King Louis XVI) of France.  He used every bit of his own influence to beg for cash, arms and bodies to help America win her fight.

It seems like every other business in this town is named after the famous American.  It's particularly perplexing that American visitors are more likely to find their former foe, the British who seem to favor this part of France, than their own American counterparts at this moving historical site.  You'll rub your eyes as you see the name Benjamin Franklin on practically every corner of the village.  The large and inviting cobbled square is a wonderful place to relax and contemplate the long-lasting friendship of France with the U.S.A.
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Known in France as the Marquis de La Fayette (note the separation of La & Fayette), Gilbert du Motier was an aristocrat who hailed from the Auvergne region.
  Born to a wealthy and titled French family, he was more interested in the fresh ideals of American independence from the British than he was
in his own birth country's causes.  Joining the American Revolution at the age of 19,
he served at his own expense, including buying the very ship that brought him
(and many other Frenchmen) to our shores.

  During America's Revolutionary War, he become the right hand of another American hero, General George Washington.  He distinguished himself at the Battle of Brandywine where he fought alongside General Washington (and was promoted to Major General) and at the Siege of Yorktown where he battled it out with Cornwallis.

Lafayette was enamored with the whole idea of America's independence and democracy.
  "The Hero of Two Worlds" brought these principles back to France to help influence their transition from the reign of kings.  He wrote a large portion of France's Declaration of the Rights of Man & of the Citizen with the help of his good friend and ally, Thomas Jefferson.


Sadly, Lafayette found himself in dire straits during the French Revolution where he spent more than 5 years in prison during their Reign of Terror.  Napoleon Bonaparte stepped up to release and recognize the imprisoned frenchman so he could continue good works to aid mankind. 
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Benjamin Franklin at Court in France
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Both Presidents held Lafayette in High Regard
PictureAuray is so beautiful, it may hurt your eyes!
Lafayette was an abolitionist, arguing to end the slave trade in both America and France.  He urged George Washington to abolish the practice and establish former slaves
as tenant farmers.

General Lafayette paid homage to his commander, the 1st American president,
by naming his son after him - George Washington de La Fayette.  Many towns in the U.S. have paid their respects to the French commander by naming towns,
streets and squares after him.

He received an honorary degree from Harvard as well as full American citizenship.

Buried in Paris, Lafayette is interred in a small cemetery in the 12th arrondissement.  Picpus Cemetery is better known as the resting place of 16 Carmelite nuns who went singing to their deaths in the murderous summer of 1794.  Some 1300 people are buried in a mass grave at Picpus, all of them decapitated during the reign of terror.  The soil on and around the general's grave was taken from Bunker Hill.
  He rests in peace, forever a friend to America and a reminder of the ties that bind France and the U.S.A.

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Celebrating American independence, immortalized at Galerie David d'Angers in the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Angers.
The man who wanted France to follow America's example was given full funeral honors by American President Andrew Jackson.  Flags were flown at half-mast for 35 days and many
U.S. citizens wore black in his honor for a full month just as they did when they honored both President Washington and President John Adams.

Lafayette, George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson
are forever our honored heroes in the fight for independence.
  So, too, should we pay our respects to the history that took place
in the little French village of Auray.
Make sure to stop at the Saint-Goustan quarter on your next trip to France and think of a
brave American and a brave Frenchman who conspired to win support for the cause of
liberty in the New World.


Merci, General Lafayette, for your help in securing our freedom.
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Life on Rue Daguerre

7/23/2014

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This is What I Crave When I'm Strolling the Streets of Paris
Life on rue Daguerre is as authentic and purely Parisian as you'll find anywhere in the city.
  This is not opulent Paris or even majestic Paris.  It's ordinary -- and that's a good thing.
  If you're looking for a slice-of-life neighborhood, this community is your place. 
Located in the 14th arrondissement, the street is steps away from Denfert Rochereau,
a great stop that offers service on both the Metro and the RER
(with quick access to Roissy-Charles DeGaulle Airport).
It's a destination I always return to, continually finding new surprises that delight.
With each and every visit, it always manages to tug at my heart strings.
  Isn't that why we come back to Paris again and again?


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I Dream of Cheese
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Two destinations of particular interest await you on rue Daguerre.

Maison Péret, sometimes called Le Rallye Péret, is a brasserie located in the middle of this hustle-bustle market street.  It's open 7 days a week, convenient to both locals and travelers, worthy of a special trip to this neighborhood. I never miss the heavenly experience of dining
al fresco on their patio where I can enjoy the engaging commotion of the shopping street.
Feasting on a simple but delightful mix of salad greens, the plate showboats three different cheeses that crown grilled Poilâne bread (the blue is my favorite).  Paired with a delightful glass of the grape from their wine shop located adjacent to the restaurant, Maison Péret is exactly what you crave in Paris.  Bonus: Berthillon ice cream is on offer for dessert.
  Family friendly, it's one of those dining experiences that isn't hot or trendy, just good.
  Four generations of the Péret family have been working hard at their craft since 1919.
It's a great chance to experience an authentic bite of Paris.
  Bravo Family Péret!

Speaking of cheese, historic fromage purveyor Androuet has opened a boutique on rue Daguerre.  Think historic, artisnal, delightful.  Camembert, Brie de Melun, Ossau Iraty, Cantal, Comté, Roquefort, blue d'Auvergne and many more favorites can be discovered at this
tiny shop.  The lines are sometimes long but it's worth the wait.  This is not grocery store cheese.  It's the real deal and the staff is both knowledgeable and dedicated to getting it right.

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Rue Daguerre is named after Louis Daguerre, the so-called "Father of Photography."
He invented the Daguerreotype process of photography, well known in American as the process used by Matthew Brady to shoot those great American portraits of the day that
helped document the time of the Civil War.

This photo, taken in Paris, was captured some time around 1938.  It's not that different from the Polaroids taken in my childhood.  Isn't it hard to imagine life before still pictures?

Monsieur Daguerre was gifted.  He was well known, too, as an artist and theatre designer.
  But I like him best because of the little street in Paris that he inspired.  A street where you can find charcuterie, steaming paella, fresh figs and cherries, designer chocolate and much more. 

It's a neighborhood to remember.
Please, if you haven't already discovered the charms of rue Daguerre, add it to your next adventure in Paris.

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Fresher than Fresh Vegetables Decorate Rue Daguerre
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A Chateau without the Rabble

6/25/2014

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Chateau de Champs-sur-Marne is a rare find and not at all far from central Paris.  Last October, I boarded the RER A and eleven miles later, found myself in a small town WITH NO TOURISTS.

This seriously sumptuous chateau and all 210 glorious acres of surrounding gardens was nearly tourist free during my visit.
I couldn't believe my good luck and wandered at will through the entire estate.

Built in the 17th Century, the estate has been frequented by a long list of notables such as  Voltaire, Diderot, Marcel Proust,
Madame de Pompadour, Isadora Duncan and many more.

These days, it's best known as a famous film location for dozens of films including 'Dangerous Liaisons', 'Marie Antoinette', and 'Vatel'.  John Malkovich, Kirsten Dundst and Gérard Depardieu have wandered these beautiful halls for the sake of their craft and we're all the better for it.

Do yourself a favor.  Next time you're in Paris, take a time-out for a wander where set designers and film directors perfect their craft.
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THERE'S NO PLACE LIKE HOME
***************************************************
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!
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Don't miss a chance to see a french country chateau minus the crazy crowds.
Neo-Classical architecture at its best. 

RER A from Paris direction Chessy Marne-la-Valée
Exit Noisel station
  Twenty minute walk to the chateau or ride
local bus 220 to Marie de Champs
Chateau is closed on Tuesdays.
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Ruth a.k.a. Mom

6/23/2014

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Ruchla Rechtman Ruwe


Rose Marie Regnier


Mom



Ruth


THE REAL RUTH

If you’ve had the chance to read my book, 'The Paris Effect', you’ve met Ruth.  Feisty, disturbed, charming, haughty, fun, naughty, always interesting, she is the linchpin of the book.

Although The Paris Effect is a work of fiction, the spirit of Ruth is based in large part on someone near and dear to my heart, my Mom.  Most people simply knew her as Rosemary Ruwe or Mrs. Stuart Ruwe, but her real name was Ruchla Rechtman Ruwe. Sometimes.

During WWII in Paris, she assumed another identity. As a young Jewess, she was in harms way 24/7. Early in the war, the Jews in France were wary of the rumors about supposed Nazi atrocities taking place on the eastern front. Unfortunately, most of them remained in denial. They had heard vague stories of the “work camps” and hoped to avoid them at all costs.  Little did they know that a madman could dream up a plan to extinguish a whole group of people, a madman who would grow his followers into a nation of haters.

In the early days of the war, my grandparents worried about these things – but not too much. They were mostly concerned for their oldest children who were of age to “work.” They and their youngest three children dutifully reported to the higher authorities to be assigned their yellow stars that identified them as members of the Jewish “race.” They followed the rules and of course we know the end of that story. All perished in Auschwitz.


Luckily, my mom’s older sister had married a Frenchman of means and he produced three cartes d'identité so his wife, my mom and their oldest brother could assume new names and religious affiliation. That’s when my mom became Rose Marie Regnier, a name borrowed from an actual person whose life was lost at a young age. She didn’t have to wear the yellow star. She was never branded with a hideous tattoo. But believe me, she was forever scarred.

A close friend recently questioned whether my mom was a Holocaust survivor.  She felt since she hadn’t been interred in a concentration camp, she shouldn’t be labeled a survivor.  That statement stopped me cold.  I didn’t know what to say. My mom’s life was consumed by the ugliness of war, the cruelty of people, the unimaginable atrocities committed for no good reason. She worried constantly about her own new family in America. If your grandmother on your mother’s side is Jewish, then you, too, (no matter your religious preference) are a Jew. Secrecy, guilt, and sadness followed her all the way to the U.S.A. and, in spite of leading an exemplary life and creating a wonderful home for her family, she never fully recovered. The answer is yes,
Ruchla Rechtman Ruwe / Rose Marie Regnier / Mom
was a Holocaust survivor.


I hope and pray my story about Ruth did her justice. It would be impossible, really, but I tried.





French
Carte d'Identité
during WWII
*****************

 
Ruchla Rechtman became
Rose Marie Regnier and was saved
from sure death in the hands of the Nazis.

6,000,000 Jews were not.


Always remember, never forget.

Rest in Peace.

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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