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The Other French Riviera - Biot France

6/15/2019

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"The truth is that life is delicious, horrible, charming,
frightful, sweet, bitter, and that is everything."  
Anatole France

Artistically graced Biot has a long history of both bitter and sweet.
  These days, the village flaunts a radiant ambience
that will happily distract you on an easy-to-plan outing.

On the flip side, there's no way to deny this charming and delicious
hill-town had a long road to hoe before its bedeviled history
made a sharp left turn to enlightenment.
  Sweet and sour sometimes makes the best brew.
In this case, it's both revealing and fun to dig into Biot's devilish past
while basking in its the-sun-is-always-shining present.

Ideally situated on the French Riviera between Antibes and Cannes, Biot 
savors a secure position in a country brimming with artistically rich communities.
  
Renown for glassware, pottery and traditional craft, Biot is an artisan's paradise.
  It's a great stop for a gentle wander, mixing in a little culture (watch artists blow glass), history (winding street once hosted both pirates and Knights Templar) and
 as we all must do in southern France, enjoy a long lunch on a sunny terrace. 
What could be more French than that?
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Provence boasts a wealth of perched villages that feature cobbled alleyways,
scenic ramparts, an ancient church or two and a couple of inviting cafés.
Biot offers this and more, its Riviera charm extending beyond the norm. 

Old city walls, medieval gateways, stone passageways and picturesque arcades 
paint a particularly charming picture for Biot's most famous enterprise.
  Local crafts include pottery, ceramics and -- most well known -- Biot
bubble glass, all on offer in the town center.
Modern art flourishes in this ancient town that was 
once conquered by the Romans.
Side by side, the ancient and the au courant swim in tandem,
a delightful melody of Provencal genius.

"L'oeuvre d'art, c'est une idée qu'on exagère."
​ "A work of art is an idea that someone exaggerates."

André Gide, French author & Nobel Peace Prize winner for literature
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​At the bottom of the hill, well outside the main town center,
​ is the well respected La Verrerie de Biot.

Tradition, craftsmanship, and an opportunity to watch artists
at work should you choose a tour.
  You'll be able to take home a beautiful memory of Biot directly
from the talented hands of the souffleurs* who toil in a family
enterprisethat's been in business since 1956.
*glassblowers

I wasn't expecting a French language tutorial in Biot but here you go,
hope you learn from my own awkward attempts to converse.
  Much like the English language, the "rules" don't always apply.
  Tradition would teach us that Biot would be pronounced Bee-oh with the "t" silent.  But no, much like knee, salmon and mortgage, Biot changes the rules.
The correct pronunciation is Bee-Ott.  Go figure.
  One more reason to stick to bonjour and merci..... 
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Stone arches line La Place aux Arcades, along with a warm welcome from Biot.
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Biot's once checkered past includes marauding pirates and the black plague.
As if that's not enough drama, on one occasion, the unlucky village
was given away much like an unlucky bride or an old pair of shoes.
  In 1209, the Count of Provence donated the township to the Knights Templar.
  Once their domination ended, it was appropriated a second time, gifted
on a silver platter to the Knights Hospitaler.*  
*later known Knights of Malta  

But there were good times too.
  Antique terracotta olive jars dated 20,000 years ago were discovered,
proving there were times of plenty during the age of the Romans.
 Made entirely by hand -- no pottery wheel for these artists -- the
ancient amphorae once held precious olive oil from local growers.
Take note of the olive trees that still surround the community.

  One could make the case that Biot's craftsmanship passed
from one hand to the next generation throughout the years.
Little wonder today's residents are so artistically gifted. 
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Ever wonder where we get the word "cul-de-sac"? Well, here it is, the end of the road in Beautiful Biot.
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Eglise Ste-Marie-Madeleine is Biot's central church.
Completed in the 15th century, the church is unique in that you enter the church
and walk down a staircase to the central nave.
  Ancient frescoes, beautiful stained glass and an eerie silence
make this a special place.

"There are times when we stop. We sit still.... We listen
and breezes from a whole other world begin to whisper."

James Carroll, American author/historian
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"Vierge du Rosaire" by Italian Renaissance artist Louis Brea circa 1510
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A dried cardabelle flower on a doorway is rumored to ward off evil spirits.
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​Just my luck, Biot's most famous museum was shuttered
the day I visited but I remain a fawning fan of its artist's legacy.


Musée Nationale Fernand Léger offers the opportunity to see some
450 works of the avant-garde artist in a dreamy setting.
In case you don't "get" his experimental art, consider this. 
Christies Auction house currently has an estimate on
one of his works priced at well over $31,000,000.
​
  Just so you know, you can fly to France, stay in a lovely B&B, have 
a really good lunch, and visit his museum for less than that....
but don't go on Tuesday, or you too will miss it.
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Fernand Léger is sometimes called the godfather of pop art.
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Oh my! This is Fernand Léger's portrait of Adam & Eve -- tattooed and strutting their stuff in modern bathing apparel.
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Offering yet another reason to visit, Biot hosts a Medieval Festival*. 
Celebrating the age when knights, kings, warrior-monks and popes ruled much
of the world, this is not the cheesy commercial version we (too) often see. 
*I have not confirmed if this is an annual event; perhaps one of my in-the-know readers could confirm or elaborate.

Featuring tournaments, falconry displays, games, ceremonial dancing,
leatherwork workshops and all things medieval, the festival culminates
in a torch-lit parade at sunset.
And it's FREE!
A little something to add to your already-too-long wish-list.... tunic
​ and codpiece not required.

So all you lords & ladies out there, I tell ye truth; come hither to Biot's medieval
​ festival whose strangeness and beauty doth taketh my breath away.....
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History fills many residential streets such as Place de la Catastrophe where two houses collapsed in June of 1898.
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France's Cote d'Azur is an uninterrupted vision of blue sky,
sultry fantasy and Mediterranean cuisine.
  If you need a slightly quieter version of the dream and a good dose of art,
surely you'll enjoy the little perched village christened Biot.
 
"So have adventures. Go exploring. Drive around at midnight.
Feel the wind running through your hair. Life is short, my darling.
And there's no day like today."
Morgan Matson, American novelist

Make today a good one.
  It's never too late to throw caution to the wind and make your dreams come true.
Consider a visit to Biot and the French Riviera, one of life's greatest pleasures. 
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Making "Friends" in Cagnes-sur-Mer

1/6/2019

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At least every other day, I get grumpy with my social media.
This century's cultural phenomenon is both a rose and a thorn in 1000+1 ways.
Engaging through Twitter, Facebook and all the rest sometimes
feels like being held hostage -- but then again, no one is holding
a gun to my head while I log on and (too often) waste time.

Try to imagine a completely different time and place when you had to 

use actual wit and/or talent in order to get noticed.
  On a day-long outing in the pretty Provencal village of Cagnes-sur-Mer,
I began to envy how the world "plugged in" back when a
community forum had a human element, one that offered collaboration
and innovation, shaping hearts & souls for years to come.

  Art was often the glue; beauty and imagination
opened the door to a new world of communication.

 

Enviably situated between Antibes and Nice, Cagnes-sur-Mer offers more
than what you would expect, not the least of which is a reflection of how men and

women transformed their passion into something that lasted forever,
a body of work that stood out in a crowd.

Two of the town's notable celebrities -- though each were known for polar
opposite reasons --  discovered the secret to communication and identity politics.


"When I've painted a woman's bottom so that I want to touch it,
the painting is finished."
Pierre August Renoir, French Impressionist

Imagine this on Twitter..... 100k new followers!
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Best loved "Luncheon of the Boating Party" was an early work -- not from Cagnes-sur-Mer but the island of Chatou in the Seine.
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Renoir.  Talk about a brand. 
I'll bet today's marketing gurus would flip for a trademark like that.
  So how did the celebrated artist create such a fervor?
 
Pierre-August Renoir moved to Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1907,
his celebrity already well cemented in the art world.
With high hopes the sweet fresh air of Provence's countryside
would provide relief for his aggressive arthritis, he was soon
disappointed as he regressed from bad to worse in a decade's time.

   But the news in Cagnes-sur-Mer was not all bad as the determined
painter flourished artistically, continuing to produce -- even
innovate -- until his demise in 1919.
Those were the years the accomplished artist out-dazzled even the
most fervent of his "followers" -- unexpectedly stepping out of his
comfort zone -- Impressionism -- by trying his hand at both
sculpture and classic portraiture. 

Though soon confined to a wheel chair, his arthritic hands too misshapen
to hold a paint brush properly, he labored day and night. 
Toward the end of his life, Renoir's magical hands were taped,
making it nearly impossible to grasp a paint brush properly.
Yet the determined old master refused to give up,
 gifting the world with a magnificent body of work.
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Look at his misshapen hands -- yet remarkably, he continued to paint.
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The view from Renoir's atelier.
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One of the things I loved most about the museum are the family items displayed lovingly throughout.
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Upon arrival at Renoir's country estate -- nicknamed "Les Collettes" -- you'll
immediately see how nature inspired his work, helping him sustain a
creative expressiveness deep into his twilight years.
  The property -- now a mansion-museum -- provokes the senses,
 the studio/home surrounded by acres of centuries old olive trees
and glorious Provencal countryside.  

Renoir's retreat was filled with family and friends, all relishing the chance
to watch their famous friend's mastery of the canvas.  
Artists such as Monet, Sisley, Pissarro and Cézanne understood the importance
of color and light -- two elements abundantly on offer in Cagnes-sur-Mer.
  Renoir adored being surrounded by friends & family and
enjoyed a special affinity with the sensual models
who posed on his artist's sofa. 
His intimate portraits and nudes feel right at home here
alongside his luminous landscapes of the region.

Art provokes emotion -- no need for an audit or focus group to figure that out. 
By its own nature, an appealing painting or sculpture builds interaction,
the fundamentals of good social media.
  That's not what they called it then, certainly, but Renoir and his community of
​ art-lovers fine-tuned their market and overdelivered the goods.
 
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If I were a painter, I'd haul my easel and paints
to Renoir's country paradise for an eternity.
With views of the nearby Mediterranean as well as Haut-de-Cagnes*,
you'd have to be hard-hearted as hell not to be moved.  
*Cagnes-sur-Mer is divided into two parts; Haut-de-Cagnes is the upper town dripping in old village charm.

Renoir's style of painting changed shape through the years.
Much like a force of nature, he was brilliant in adapting to and improving
his life work -- perhaps another reason his star power continues to shine.  

​The artist's portraits reflect a passion for being social.
  His portraiture of women feels particularly emotional.
You can see this readily in paintings such as "The Theatre Box". 

Renoir's gift for "life painting" reflects his capacity for socializing.
  How else do you explain the beautiful images he created in some
of his most famous works such as "Luncheon of the Boating Party"
"The Swing" and "Dance at Bougival" -- all snapshots
 of the era in which they lived, a slice of life on canvas.

No wonder he's an icon.
Renoir would have been aces at this social networking game,
though it would be much more fun to hobnob with friends
​ at a boating party than on LinkedIn....
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Renoir's outdoor paradise at Les Collettes
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Jean Renoir, the artist's grandson, is a brand name in French cinema.
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Third son Claude Renoir created these colorful vases.
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There is another high-profile resident of Cagnes-sur-Mer
who made us sit up and take notice.
Suzy Solidor was the self proclaimed Queen of Self-Promotion.

  Had she lived today, she may have had as many "likes" on
her fan pages as internet status queens Shakira and Rhianna.

  The illegitimate daughter of a baron and his maid, Suzy S.
became a star in her own right.
  Born in Brittany, she moved to Paris to make find her oeuvre
in the bright lights of the big city.
Before long, Suzy was both a performer and a nightclub owner.
Her smoky voice and sultry countenance made her a standout;
but it was her gift as a marketer that made her a star.
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Suzy Solidor had one primary mission in life. 
Above all else, she resolved to become
THE MOST PAINTED WOMAN IN THE WORLD.

If that sounds like a quirky objective, think again.
  She lived in a time when the height of power -- particularly for the
female sex -- was to be admired for beauty and glamour.
  Much like celebrities today use social media, Suzy set in motion
a plan that would set her apart from all others.

Her club, La Vie Parisienne, was a popular hangout for the best artists of the day -- Picasso, Raoul Dufy, Tamara de Lempicka to name a few.
  And that's exactly why you see many of her portraits today.
  Jean Cocteau, Modigliani and a host of popular artists
"competed" to create their own version of Suzy.
There are literally HUNDREDS of renderings of Suzy Solidor --
​each with its own unique interpretation. 
Instagram would have a meltdown. 
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​As they say in the South, "Her mama didn't raise no fool."
She had a foolproof game plan.
Nothing blasé about this campaign, Suzy Solidor's face will live forevermore. 
She knew her audience; recruited brilliantly; provoked emotion,
the quintessential element to any successful marketing strategy.


  It was a stroke a brilliance really.
  Portrayed by some of the most revered artists of the day is exactly what gave
her star status -- not to mention a new "look" with each passing display. 
What girl doesn't want to change her face from time to time?


Suzy's life was a raw mix nightclub life, lesbian affairs, drug use -- even
collaboration with some of the Nazi officers who frequented her club
during the war years -- but still she survived.
  And of course, she used her celebrity to great advantage.
  Maurice Chevalier and Marlene Dietrich are just a few of the "names"
who played hard and fast at her famous nightclub.
She even has a few film credits to her name including La Garconne, a
1936 black & white classic that starred Arletty and Edith Piaf.

In later years, she pretty much self-destructed but somehow kept
paying the bills by opening a small club in Cagnes-sur-Mer.

You can see dozens of these portraits from her collection
​ in the Chateau-Musée Grimaldi in Haut-de-Cagnes.
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 After we spent time with Suzy in the castle, we walked to the edge
of the upper town and noticed a cemetery.
  Realizing the odds were against us, I wondered out loud if we could find
Suzy's burial marker and sure enough, we spotted it and paid our respects.
  It was the perfect ending to her story.
  Suzy's almost fictionalized star power read much like a novel
and we felt the need to "read" until the very end.

Suzy Solidor was a character and an icon in her own right.
​If you're a music lover, check out her nostalgic vintage songs on YouTube.
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Memorial to Suzy Solidor. Rest in peace.
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The village of Cagnes-sur-Mer would be worth a side-trip
even if Renoir and Suzy weren't in "residence". 

At the top of the hill -- Haut-de-Cagnes -- stands a typical must-see village square. Naturally, you'll find a 17th century castle, several charming cafes,
 an arcaded passageway amid narrow little streets perched more in
 fantasy than reality -- the stuff great impressionist paintings are made of....

Don't miss the sweet little church and its
affectionate display of local santons.
This is the perfect spot to enjoy lunch en plein air,
admire the old stones of the village
and engage in some serious people-watching. 
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Santons are little hand-painted figurines that represent life in a village typicall in the 19th century.
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Making a splash.
Is there an app for that?


  Whether your name is Pierre August Renoir, Suzy Solidor or
Michelle Moggio @ The Paris Effect, the need for communication is essential.
  Engaging people face-to-face, building a presence and figuring out where and how
to fit in maintains the same importance whether it's circa 1900, 1950 or the 2ks.


In our own way, we all hope to be unforgettable.
  If you study the lives of Renoir and Suzy Solidor, you'll soon realize
talent procures the battle but persistence wins the war.
Sure, "going viral" has its power -- but the real muscle is
in the patience and doggedness to move forward.
​ 
Persist in whatever it is that you love.
  And keep on traveling and loving our beautiful & fascinating France.
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A hilltop village minus the tourist crowds - serene perfection.
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Chasing Cowboys & Cadillacs in Provence

6/1/2016

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A Sunday afternoon drive is always a good idea. 
A Sunday afternoon drive in Provence is priceless.
You never know what lurks around the next corner... 

 We left our home-away-from-home in Saint-Remy-de-Provence just
after breakfast, resolving not to get side-tracked by the tempting array
of antique shops, olive oil mills and vineyards along the route.

  Our pre-determined destination was Pernes-les-Fontaines, long
distinguished for their charming claim-to-fame -- fountains -- a 
staggering forty fountains in just one tiny town of fewer than 12,000 people.

Fountains in Provence have a long and lofty history.
First engineered by the prolific Romans in the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D.,
they are front and center of most historic towns in the region.
But most towns boast just a handful so we were
curious about a borough that flaunted forty of them.

  So one sunny summer day in May, we chose the scenic route (of course!)
and  zig-zagged through the back roads,
pausing only to let a flock of sheep and goats pass by.
Before long we found ourselves in the lovely watery landscape
of  Pernes-les-Fontaines.

In typical french fashion, we were surprised by our own good fortune.
Sure, there were fountains - a marvelously diverse collection, as promised.
But as luck would have it, we had stumbled upon a local celebration -- one
that left us in stitches and aching for more.
 To our wide-eyed amazement, innstead of gawking at medieval walls and reinforced fortifications, we were treated to a day of all things American.
Cowboys and convicts, Harleys and hamburgers, classic American cars
and a band playing rockabilly, it was a day to celebrate the red white & blue.
Yes, 3,000 miles from the shores of the U.S.A, it felt like the 4th of July.

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Our search for the vivid colors and history of characteristic Provence led us to
 a sliver of a world known by few -- spontaneous and unpredictable -- a
 perfect addition to our already fun adventures in the area.

  This was not a regional festival or a holiday merchandising effort.
  It was just an honest-to-goodness block party that brought everyone out to enjoy
the inherent blessings of an enchanting town on a beautiful Sunday in May.
Families that play together stay together and in Pernes-les-Fontaines,
you could fill the pages of a homecoming scrapbook.

  We engaged with the locals on their level, making this particular stop a
 tour de force -- and part situation comedy -- of good times and friendly people.
  Joking, flirting, dancing and singing, the welcome mat was laid out for all.

  They didn't seem too worried that we Americans might be judging
their American fete -- but then again, it was getting close to lunchtime
when all good french men and women have more important things on their mind.

"There are some days when I think I am going to die from an overdose of satisfaction."
Salvatore Dali

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When in France, lunch is always my favorite time of day. 
When in Provence, whether you choose a fine bistro or a local hole-in-the-wall,
you can always expect something fantastic on your plate. 

We chose Café de la Place, hoping for a traditional Sunday lunch.
A terrace overflowing with locals, it seemed
like a good gamble -- and we weren't disappointed.

  Would-be cowboys and cowgirls were camped out waiting
for their prix fixe options - chicken or duck - although we noticed
quite a few diners tucking into Texas-sized steaks.
Influenced perhaps by all that broad-shouldered Wild West bravado in the air....

Dessert was a homemade masterpiece, a Provencal medley of
chocolate and orange that looked as good as it tasted.
  All washed down with a chilled rose, it was what Sundays in Provence should be.

The Wild West may be a cliched view of America born of old movies
but there is nothing cliched about Sunday lunch in France.

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Back to the main reason we stopped in Pernes-les-Fontaines. 
I found the fountains intriguing but readily admit we didn't
chase down all forty of them -- or even come close.
  Aided by an enthusiastic "volunteer" who insisted she could blaze a trail,
we were treated to an over-the-top rendition of "La Vie en Rose" rather
than a knowledgeable search for the town's historic legacy.

  But that's okay.
Sometimes it's good to re-wire your expectations.
  After all, it's people and interactions
that make for some of the best travel memories.
  All in all, it was a memorable stop, one that reminded us that the best
trips are those filled with surprise and personality.

"To me, adventure has always been to me the connections and bounds you create with people when you're there. And you can have that anywhere."
Bear Grylls, British Adventurer

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Please don't come here expecting the fountains of Versailles. 
Pernes-les-Fontaines is home to smaller, more modest water displays,
many without any H20 remaining other than last night's rainfall.
 
Styles range from classic face carvings to modest stone troughs
and everything in between.
  The tourist office has a map you can follow if you're keen to see them all.
Keep a look out for the town's other attractions such as the medieval Ferrande
   Tower (frescoes!), a covered market (dating to the 17th C.), as well as scores
  of defensive walls and gates, some dating as far back as the 11th  century.

  If you climb to the top of the Tour de l'Horloge, you'll be treated to amazing
vistas of the surrounding countryside, including the rugged Vaucluse Mountains.
  The Conservatoire du Costume Comtadin is a museum that focuses on a 19th century draper's shop filled with period costumes & accessories of a long ago time.
This little town even boasts a full-on festival in August called the Font'Arts,
Pernes being the perfect stage for a musical and theatrical spectacle.

And of course, if you don't get enough of your Provence on here, you're
 just a few short miles away from two other amazing towns - Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
(antiques galore!) and Cavaillon ( the capital of melons!). 
You really can't make a wrong turn in this part of southeastern France.

"A Sunday well spent brings a week of content."
Proverb

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We went looking for a sleepy little town full of charm. 
We found that and then some.
  In the end, we discovered a simple truth. 
The best adventures happen when you least expect them. 

Chasing cowboys and Cadillacs in the middle of Provence is not a bad
way to spend
a̶ ̶r̶e̶l̶a̶x̶i̶n̶g̶  an audacious Sunday in southeastern France.
Pernes-les-Fontaines is a fountain of surprises.
As I always say, go with the flow.

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To Gordes or Not to Gordes

1/16/2016

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Politicians and business magnates aren't the only
pundits practicing "the art of the deal".
Savvy travelers eventually learn that good planning is a matter of connecting
the dots -- and re-negotiating with yourself is just part of the package.
 
You want to see everything and -- alas! -- there's never enough time or silver.
  Finding the the most magic for the money is
the end game -- so often easier said than done.
Once you begin to logically plot your path, you search out the happy medium,
a mix of what you really want paired with time, money and reality.

The Luberon is always touted as one of the most beautiful spots in Provence. 
I wouldn't argue with that.  The choices are endless. 
One of the biggest peacocks in this area is the drop-dead gorgeous village of Gordes, famously included on the short list of "the most beautiful villages in France".
Home to countless spreads in glossy magazines, movies and books,
 I was gently annoyed by its fame -- particularly the warnings that came with
the fanfare -- crowded, teeming with tourists, high-brow, pricey ..... certainly a recurrent theme that made me half consider bypassing the town
in lieu of undiscovered little burgs with less hullabaloo. 

But then I remembered, this was my race and by George, I was going to win it --
and after years of travel, I know the best advice is to
forget the competition and run your own course.
Ignoring my own reservations, we confidently made off for Gordes one
lovely spring day, hoping to catch a glimpse of the magic
before the alleged army of sightseers vanquished the charm.

And you know what?
We encountered a happy surprise, a perfect reminder that when
you listen to outside negative voices instead of your own curious heart,
it's a dumb dumb dumb thing to do.
Hesitation and doubt are nothing but spoilers, eating opportunity alive
and diminishing the chance to find magic.
Now I know what all the fuss is about -- and it's worth the gamble.
Gorgeous Gordes is a bright spot on anyone's map and our little
re-negotiated side-trip was heaven sent.

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There are two big things to remember when planning a visit to Gordes.

Unlike most scenic villages, the best part is actually the approach.
  Just be prepared for a few high pitched screams
as your vehicle makes its way up the hill. 
The scene is so stunningly picture perfect, you won't be able to stop oohing
and ahhing until the car comes to a complete stop once inside the village.
  If you want to experience that screeching-howling-magnificent sight again,
you'll need to walk back down hill (at your own peril) to the edge where you caught that first dramatic glimpse of gorgeous Gordes clinging to its rocky plateau.

The crowds are over-stated --- or at least they weren't bad the day we visited,
a bright beautiful morning in late May.
Either way, ignore the negative voices and raise your expectations. 
Come early and enjoy.

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Gordes is not typical in its beauty but has all the village accessories
we've come to expect -- a fortified castle, a couple of art museums, a
 centuries old church, as well as a nice mix of galleries, boutiques and restaurants. 
But what stands out most are the steeply cobbled streets filled with
pretty stone buildings and terracotta roofs.
  Its harmony can only be described as exceptional.
  Nothing looks shabby or ramshackle but rather
respectfully healthy in its very old age.

We enjoyed the spectacle of a small wedding party -- and they, in turn,
didn't seem to mind strangers snapping photos of their happy day. 
It felt like a movie set -- which in reality, is not far from the truth.
Films such as Ridley Scott's "A Good Year" used the village square and its
pretty fountain front and center in the 2006 romantic comedy.
  Fiery Russell Crowe and radiant Marion Cotillard's star power always shine
bright -- but in luminous Gordes, their light seemed to burn even brighter.

Gordes, after all, is dressed for success.
  Surrounded by stone farmhouses, olive, poplar and almond trees,
this is truly a land of milk and honey -- and quite naturally,
honey -- not to mention wine -- is in abundance. 
Arguably one of the most photographed fields of lavender is just a
few miles down the road at Senaque Abbey.  

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The influence of the tourist trade -- and for that matter, English speakers -- cannot
be denied, yet the very typical assortment of pottery, handicrafts and
  up-market clothing doesn't annoy like it does in other popular places.
  If it starts to get on your nerves, simply walk a few steps further
and bask in the panorama below.

This is, after all, an artist's city where famous luminaries such as Marc Chagall,
op artist Victor Vasarley and photo magician Willi Ronis
once gave birth to their miracles.
  No doubt inspired by the rugged beauty of the village, these creative
geniuses -- and many others -- sought refuge in the tiny but stimulating town.

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Yes, it seems that everything's coming up roses for Gordes, especially since
Peter Mayle published his epic "A Year in Provence", the hugely popular "bible"
of life as it should be lived -- starring, you guessed it, our town Gordes
and its nearby neighbor, Ménerbes.

But the so-called "Acropolis of the Luberon" wasn't always dripping in good fortune.  During one of the more horrific moments of WWII, Gordes suffered
their own mean campaign of shock and awe.

  Many local residents were slaughtered by the Nazis in retribution
for brave aid extended to a local arm of The Resistance. 
The Axis power burned a dozen historical buildings to the
ground, including the village's centuries old archives. 

For their suffering and bravery, Gordes received the Croix de Guerre,
France's highest military decoration honoring those
who fought for French liberty during WWII.

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The amazing Village des Bories is just down the road, estimated to be 3,000 years old!
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My humble advice -- Don't let over-sized preconceived notions get in your way.
  If you're the least bit curious, strike a happy medium and take a look.
You'll never know if you don't try.
After all, I almost scratched Gordes off my list -- and rather than it being a
travel headache, it was a stroke of luck and a happy introduction to the Luberon.

Put on your thinking cap and connect the dots -- it's the road map to magic. 
Whether you've hit a travel slump or a navigational headache, loosening the
knots in your head will open up your heart to some sensational snooping.
  Like Gordes, that famously over-wrought-over-hyped-over-promoted
(which must translate to "very worthwhile -- shhh -- keep it a secret")
village that's perched like a queen over the gloriously gorgeous
  Luberon panorama, deep in the heart of Provence.

Art of the Deal?
That's so you.
Happy hunting!

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Flying High in Tourrettes-sur-Loup

6/20/2015

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Serenity.  No crowds.  A view to die for.  Great food & wine.
  Call it luck.  Or maybe fate.

  Early into our recent trip to France, we made a three-day stop in tiny
  Tourrettes-sur-Loup, staying at a B&B in the mountains overlooking Nice.
  Hoping for a quiet refuge from an itinerary filled with cities and too-many tourists, we discovered a medieval village lost in time, a gift that rewarded us with
nature's bounty and unexpected new friends.

Let's face it.  When we travel, we gamble.
  Figuring out where to go and how best to spend
your time and money is the $64,000 question.
  We chose to stop at Tourrettes-sur-Loup because it was off the beaten
day-tripper circuit, close to Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Grasse,
two towns I've carried on my wish list for many years.
 Since I always try to stay in at least one small village to get the
  feel of "la France profonde", I guessed (correctly)
that taking the path less traveled would be better
than staying in the more jacked-up, lionized towns nearby.
Winner Winner, this one added true authenticity to our overall experience.

And guess what.
Tourrettes-sur-Loup far exceeded our expectations.
We fell in love with this little-hyped community, a breath of
fresh air that's far from the usual tourist highway.
  I liked the other more acclaimed towns of course--- but for a real cultural
experience, it's sometimes better to book the "cheap seats" --- destinations
few have discovered, special places without the tour book ink.

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In my personal journal, I described this place as "heaven on earth".
  Our hostess met us at the post office to show the way up the winding
  road, past countless fields of green, scarlet and yellow to our "castle". 

The views were mesmerizing -- Nice, Monaco, even Corsica
could be seen from our own private patio. 
  Our hosts probably could have thrown sleeping bags on the patio and called
it a day-- but yes, we had a small private room in a cozy turreted tower -- which
we abandoned for the great outdoors every chance we got. 
The innkeeper's border collie immediately adopted us,
encouraging an on-going game of puppy soccer.
  Bird song and frogs were our musical playlist and the smell of flowers ---
lush, delectable, supernatural--- was everywhere.
A perfumed paradise.

It was a good reminder of why we travel.
  A good trip intermittently raises (exciting cultural experiences)
and lowers the pulse (relaxed living, gentle harbors).
  Road trips are best when all your senses are in gear.
  In Tourrettes-sur-Loup, it's easy to be an over-achiever without lifting a finger.
  Every single sense effortlessly engages, rewarding you
with a warm feeling of celestial bliss.

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Spectacularly situated in the Alpes-Maritime region of Provence,
Tourrettes-sur-Loup is an artisan village perched on a rocky
plateau, fewer than 20 miles from Nice.
  The tourism economy dominates, yet never feels touristy.

  The pedestrianized vieux village with its arched passageways
and impossible landscapes can be walked in less than an hour.
  But you'll want to spend days here, relaxing in the sun and chatting up the locals.
There's an ooh and an aah around every corner of the half-moon circuit.

It's a friendly place, starting with the owners of our B&B.
  Former Parisians, Guylène and Michel made their way here
for the very same reason we did.
We arrived as visitors and left as friends.

  Tourrettes-sur-Loup is a sanctuary, remarkable for its simplicity,
made memorable by its peaceful tranquility and privileged theater in the sky.

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Mountains, sea, and violets are key ingredients in the Tourrettes-sur-Loup recipe.  Situated on the bluffs above the more splashy towns of the Cote d'Azure,
there's an astonishing view of the blue sea every where you turn.

Justifiably famous for violet production, the delicate flower
has been cultivated here for over 100 years.
Just like its hometown flower, Tourrettes-sur-Loup
looks, smells and tastes divine.

Artistic creativity reigns.
  Dozens of local artisans live and work behind the pretty stone walls.
  You'll find shops and galleries with paintings, pottery, jewelry and sculpture.
Not at all cheapened by these enterprises, the town
and its artisan abodes feel just right.
 
A violet museum -- La Bastide aux Violettes -- has a greenhouse and garden
filled to the brim with the pretty purple blooms.  There's a medieval church
(St. Gregoire - 12th to 15th century) along with a charming chapel (Saint-Jean)
  that features engaging murals of locals woven into biblical stories.

But the joys of Tourrettes-sur-Loup don't lie in sensational museums or
fancy restaurants (though they do boast a Michelin starred restaurant). 
It's in the weekly farmer's market where you'll stare in awe at the stooped,
elderly local pulling her cart back up the steep hill after the weekly market.
  It's on the petanque court where the unshaven "gang" doesn't
pay a moment's notice when you point your camera their way.
  It's in the bored faces of the local youth, dreaming of an urban escape.

This is a place to stop and smell the roses -- literally.
Try the crystallized violet candy, sample the local organic goat cheese,
buy a jar of the local honey or candied fruit, it's all good.

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I fell in love with the stone houses with their wee doors and pots of hanging flowers.
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Home Sweet Home
There are imaginative day-trips not far from the village, starting with artsy and glamorous St. Paul de Vence, the number one tourist destination in all of Provence. Perfume capitol of the world, Grasse is an easy day-trip for anyone interested
in the aromatic and profitable world of scents.
  A crazy winding ride up to Gourdon, another village perched on
the edge of the world, is pretty much a must-do.

 But then again, you'll likely find it hard to leave.
The 1300-foot altitude and narrow roads of Tourrettes-sur-Loup are
not for amateur drivers or scaredycat passengers.
  Buckle up, drive slowly, carefully, thoughtfully --- and be
rewarded with some of the best views in France.

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Clovis, the Michelin one-star restaurant
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The cinematic masterpiece "To Catch a Thief", starring Cary Grant and Grace Kelly,
used Tourrettes-sur-Loup for some of its most crucial scenes.
  Little wonder producer Alfred Hitchcock was able to evoke mystery and beauty,
his vision of the local paradise we call Provence.
  The romance of the region is front and center in the film, crucial to the story, helping
make this production THE movie you think of when the name Provence is mentioned.

And if you prefer French cinema, one of the all-time great
movies was conceived and filmed nearby. 
"Les Enfants du Paradis", though mostly filmed on a film set in Nice,
is connected to Tourrettes-sur-Loup through
screenwriter/poet Jacques Prévert and director Marcel Carné.
  Allegedly, the movie's Jewish set designer and film composer were living
nearby (under assumed names) while the movie was produced -- a
  harrowing two-year period under Nazi occupation.
Some of the film extras were Resistance agents weaving the web of their
covert plans as well as collaborators that Vichy had assigned to keep watch. 

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Yes, of course, I'd love to go back. 
Perhaps next years' Paris-Nice race?
  If you love The Tour de France, why not dodge the crowds and
show up for France's premiere Spring cycling event?
  The well-respected Race to the Sun is an eight-day event that features many of
the same Grand Tour contenders we see in the standing-room-only Tour de France.  I've been on the Champs-Elysées for the big event, crushed by the crowds. 
For my money, I'll take Paris-Nice and wait in a nice comfy chair high up
on the beautiful hills of Tourrettes-sur-Loup. 
Dreams do come true, don't they?

Or perhaps I'll return for the Fête des Violettes, a festival that
boasts carnival floats made of violets, a traditional market
and dinner & dancing in the streets.

Maybe I'll return for no reason at all.
  A glass of wine on my perch ....
a game of soccer with my new canine friend....
a taste of la vraie France.


Tourrettes-sur-Loup
A Special Place in the Sun

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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