Category: Paris

Lost in Space

11/17/2020

You likely know the panicked feeling of losing
your keys, your phone or, God forbid, your passport.
More often than not, the quest to find the missing item is
a pretty easy mission even though the knot in the
pit of your stomach may remain for a while.

What if getting lost -- in this case, it's YOU who has gone astray -- turns out
to be just the thing you need at a particular point in time.
Letting go of the "vision" -- you know, the painstakingly drawn itinerary
that must (haha) be followed to the letter during every precious
Paris day -- can be heaven-sent if you're in the right place at the right time.

The day arrived for our trek to the Bois de Vincennes -- the
largest park in Paris -- located on the eastern edge of the city.
I had it perfectly planned -- or so I thought.
We'd take the metro to Porte Dorée, make a quick stop at the
Immigration Museum* and then forge a pre-planned path to see
the best of the park, hopefully preserving enough time and energy for
a walk-through the Chateau of Vincennes.
*Musée National de l'Histoire de l'Immigration, sometimes call the Palais de la Porte Dorée

After enjoying an appropriately leisurely lunch, we were already
behind schedule but feeling pretty unbothered at this point.
After all, we had a gloriously colorful fall
afternoon to take in a park and its surrounds.

What I wasn't anticipating, however, was getting lost in the mammoth space.
The seemingly boundless green space is well-signed and as I always
carry my handy-dandy phone that whispers directions in my ear,
I assumed it would be a cakewalk to spot the specific sights I was looking for.

"Sometimes people need to take the wrong path
in order to lead them to the right one."
Nashoda Rose, author

Just in case you don't enjoy long walks, you can rent these cute little bike-carts called rosalies.

The park -- a wooded area divided into strategically themed
zones, is the largest* green space in Paris.
Miles and miles of wooded paths, pretty green parkland and
manmade lakes make for diverse entertainment.
*nearly three times the size of NYC's Central Park!

Around 1150, the 2500 acres of woodland were
originally confined to a royal hunting ground.
But Emperor Napoleon III had big dreams, yearning
to dedicate the upgraded forest back to the people of Paris.
His modern vision soon transformed the princely hunting ground
into a park for the people, beginning in 1855.

With over fifty miles of walking paths and several artificial lakes,
the emperor's vision metamorphosed into a resounding success.
Nature lovers share the space with ducks, geese and swans
as well as dozens of bird species -- including the famed grey heron -- that
treasure the trees and flowers as much as those of us without wings.

One section within the Bois is called Parc Floral de Paris.
It's a huge botanical garden, filled with cascades of French families walking,
biking and riding in fun rented "buggies" called rosalies.

A real standout, Parc Floral is deeply devoted to ecology and plant preservation.
The park is very much like Paris with its dual nature, a lesson in contrasts.
Seemingly incompatible, family entertainment and environmental science
manage to co-exist in what turns out to be a beautiful romance.

"The more civilized man becomes, the more he needs and craves
a great background of forest wildness, to which he may return
like a contrite prodigal from the husks of an artificial life."
Ellen Burns Sherman, American author

The Bois de Vincennes is a B-I-G place.
As we walked and walked, I realized we were off-course -- literally lost in space.
The signs -- even Google maps -- weren't any help.
And then it hit me.
The "plan" didn't matter.
The Bois was beautiful and restful. And that was enough.

Looking in the rear view mirror of my "good old days" in corporate America,
I was obsessed with having a plan and sticking to it.
It worked well in the office, certainly, but some of that
narrow self-restraint remains with me to this day.
So it was an eye-opening moment to wake up to the opportunity
to just amble along and sniff out whatever came our way.

Experiencing nature is a deeply emotional experience; you cut loose,
let your hair down, and experience the exhilaration of total freedom.
The Bois de Vincennes was the perfect place
to blow off the world and all its cares.
The "list" lost its importance and I learned a lesson in liberation.

"Those who do not move do not notice their chains."
Rosa Luxemburg, Polish philosophy & revolutionary

Don't miss the butterfly pavilion.

Pure calm, artistic expression through nature

With over fifty miles of walking paths, expect to run into some surprises.
Be aware that during part of the season, there is a small section
devoted to nudists -- but don't worry, you can* easily bypass the zone.
*actually you MUST bypass it unless you, too, are baring your all; it's specifically
designated for naturalists only -- no voyeurs allowed.

The park also boasts a Hippodrome where 1,000 races a year take place.
A day at the races is likely best saved for those who pre-plan the event.
Instead, row around one of the lakes or enjoy a round of miniature golf.
If you're lucky, you may run into a concert or perhaps a festival.
Jazz is very popular here and the park hosts a fine festival in July.
Consider packing a picnic.

"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of life."
Thomas Jefferson, 3rd President of the United States & Paris connoisseur

With miles and miles of forested paths, this is not an artist's vision of an urban park; it's just stunningly natural.

I never did find the Jardin d'Agronomie Tropicale -- but it gives me a good reason to return to the park.

In spite of suffering through a myriad of transformation, Chateau de Vincennes
is considered one of the most important medieval royal residences.
From castle to weapons dump to porcelain factory, its fortified walls
have sustained both triumph and humiliation.

Construction began in 1336 on the site of a hunting ground,
next to a little chapel that allegedly held an important
religious relic from the True Cross of Christ.
Expansion on the chateau continued as did the chapel,
rebuilt in the manner of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.
By 1654, royal architect Louis Le Vau began to build a new palace
that would surround the spare military donjon.

Though the chateau was a royal residence for 500 years, it's heyday was
over once the Chateau de Versailles became center of the universe.
Transformed into a prison, it gained historical significance once again.
I toured the interior almost twenty years ago but still vividly remember the
Marquis de Sade's cell where he was imprisoned for seven years beginning in 1777. During WWI, infamous spy Mata Hari was imprisoned and executed, allegedly refusing a blindfold and boldly staring into the eyes of the firing squad.

"I am a woman who enjoys herself very much; sometimes I lose, sometimes I win."
Mata Hari, infamous spy

King Henri V - often referred to as "Good King Henri" -- died here in 1422.

A statue of Louis IXth -- Saint Louis -- stands proudly near the medieval chateau.

The chapel at Vincennes may remind you of another -- Sainte-Chapelle in Paris -- for good reason.

Part of the plan was to make a quick stop at
the Musée National de l'Histoire de l'Immigration.
In order to take advantage of the beautiful day, we decided to save the museum
for a rainy day but at least we paused long enough to admire its distinct facade.
We came to a standstill at the Fontaine de la Porte Dorée where a
jaw-dropping golden image of the warrior Athena proudly rules the square.

As you approach the Bois, you'll notice the "mountain" leading to the zoo.
Parc Zoologique de Paris lays claim to over 2,000 animals including sea lions, rhinoceros, giraffes, flamingos, penguins and wolves to name a few.
The wildlife park is packed with life exhibits and adventures including
a tropical tree house and environmentally themed biozones.

Biodiversity reigns at the zoo with five distinct biozones to promote environmentalism as much as the animals.

A taste of old Imperial France exists at the Palais de la Dorée. The facade alone is worth the walk.

The Bois de Vincennes hosted the Summer Olympics of 1900.
It was hardly the Olympic phenomenon we know today.
Back then, the "big" events were golden oldies competitions
such as croquet, tug-of-war and hot-air ballooning.

There was an upside though; it was the first Olympics
where women were allowed to compete*.
*women were permitted to battle in "ladylike" sports such as croquet, tennis and golf -- but hey, it was a start...

Currently, the Bois is preparing for the Paris Olympics of 2024.
Let the games begin!

So is the Bois de Vincennes as magnificent as
some of the better-known parks in Paris?
In a word, no.

This particular park exists for an entirely different reason.
Many Paris gardens are so beautiful you might think Coco Chanel
or Yves Saint-Laurent "dressed" them.
Rather than the designer-influenced impeccability we've grown so accustomed
to in our favorites like the romantic Luxembourg Gardens or the elegant
Parc Monceau or Place des Vosges, the Bois is a wooded hideaway
that feels much more wild.
It feels far from Paris -- yet it's not; this is the 12th arrondissement,
literally just fifteen minutes from the very center of the city.

So ok, I'll admit I missed the "attraction" I most wanted to see -- the
Jardin d'Agronomie Tropicale, an Asian-themed garden that harks back
to the Colonial Exhibition of 1931.
But that's quite alright; it's a reason to return.

Getting lost in the Bois was a happy accident.
Re-discovering how to "roll with the punches"
was exactly what the doctor ordered.
A glass of cognac at the end of the day topped an afternoon
filled with pure indulgence and emotional fulfillment.
So the next time you've "lost" your agenda or flubbed your timetable,
consider nature as the ultimate guide on the road less traveled.
Happy trails to you!

"Nature gives to every time and season some beauties of its own; and from
morning to night, as from the cradle to the grave, it is but a succession
of changes so gentle and easy that we can scarcely mark their progress."
Charles Dickens

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Love is Here to Stay

5/16/2020

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I'm a believer.
Go where you thrive.
And in Paris, that means point your feet in the direction of food.

Among the best way to make friends with food is at the source such
as roving markets (marchés volant) or market streets (rue commerçants).
In a nutshell, hightail it to any place the chefs and the food-lovers go.

This blog has already introduced you to a variety of food markets where
temptations and rapturous Paris delicacies are boundless.
As I always try to fit in a new market or two on every trip, it was long past time
to check out one that many of the most gluttonous of we amateur gourmet
sleuths have proclaimed to be in a league of its own.

Rue de Nil is a trendy but deadly serious food street.
Located in the Sentier district of the 2nd arrondissement, it occupies
a noble position in the hierarchy of gastronome know-it-alls.
Though the street is small in scale, rue de Nil in no way takes a back seat
the more famous market streets of the city.

You'll find a butcher, a baker, a fishmonger -- all the usual suspects -- including
a variety show of veggie shops, coffeemakers -- even a Michelin starred
restaurant and a deli-style take-out joint.
A visitor can walk the street in mere minutes; a food lover can spend
hours gripped by its sights, tastes and smells.

Superb quality and freshness is the hallmark of a street like this.
You won't walk away longing for the "good old days".
Rue de Nil is a crossroads for a new era -- a golden era -- of good eats
and a proud Parisian tradition of elevating breakfast, lunch and dinner.

This street proves the old adage that food is love.
There's no time like the present to make room for love.

"A crisp roast chicken would set the world aright."
George R.R. Martin, author of "Game of Thrones" series

Everyone's favorite restaurant on rue de Nil was baptized "Frenchie" in 2009.
The brainchild of Chef Gregory Marchand, it serves as the flagship of the street.
Long known as one of the mega-stars of Paris cuisine,
Frenchie has earned a Michelin star yet remains as unpretentious
and authentic as the day it was born.
My first whiff of Frenchie was on tv; I'll never forget
Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert's euphoric review.

If you can't get reservations, there's a Frenchie Wine Bar*
and a Frenchie-to-Go** outpost nearby.
Whichever you choose, you can get a bite of what makes
Paris so characteristically delicious.
*wine & small shareable plates
**deli style takeout including fish 'n chips and pastrami

A small street with big tastes.
Please consider making rue de Nil your next gourmet
port of call in a city full of delicious destinations.

"People who love to eat are always the best people."
Julia Child

Then there's always the charm of returning to a tried-and-true favorite.
In Paris, that means a trip to rue Cler.
Yes, it's in the guidebooks.
Yes, it's crowded and maybe even a bit too perfect.....
No matter.
This is a market street you must see at least once in a lifetime.

Nearly everyone who visits Paris comes to the 7th arrondissement so they
can check off the Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's Tomb, and Rodin's Le Penseur.*
*The Thinker.
But for me, rue Cler will forever be the
meat and potatoes -- oops, bad pun -- of the neighborhood.

Rue Cler is one of the best places possible to investigate many
food options and aim for what appeals most to you.
The choices are divine.
It's a street that isn't as helter-skelter as some Paris markets tend to be;
everything is tidy and Instagram ready.
But that doesn't mean it lacks charm or authenticity, just that
you'll need to brace yourself for some big Paris sighs and that
pit-in-your-belly feeling that you've been missing something special all your life.

"I have made a lot of mistakes falling in love, and regretted most of them,
but never the potatoes that went with them."
Nora Ephron, American Writer & Film Maker

Spend a little time on rue Cler where surely you'll fall in love AND eat the potatoes.

Without question, the flowers on rue Cler look good enough to eat.
The flower-power of this street feels like spring
lasts twelve months a year and every day is your birthday.

After inhaling buckets of endorphin-raising bouquets,
you'll be primed for the wide array of over-the-top food choices.
Butchers, bakers, candy-makers, green grocers, cheese experts,
wine merchants, florists..... a destination for truffles and paté maison, organic
meats and wines as well as a long look at elegant Parisians at every turn.
Where to begin is like a puzzle with 500 pieces all in the same color.

Begin with a paradox -- Is it Italian or is it French?
I'm speaking of course of Davoli, a classic food store where you can pick up everything you'd ever want for a memorable dinner to unpack at days end.
Prepared foodstuffs range from salami to olives to read-made risotto
and escargots à la bourguignonne make this an exquisite destination.

But don't go too overboard if you must take the metro "home"
because you have many other stops to make.
Console yourself with a scoop of Martine Lambert's ice cream.
Made with lait cru -- unpasteurized milk -- and crème fraiche, it tastes like
it came from heaven though you're close; the frozen delicacy hails
from Normandy where cows surely have been sanctified by a higher power.

"When you only have two pennies left in the world,
buy a loaf of bread with one and a lily with the other."
Chinese Proverb

Walking Paris is one of life's greatest gifts.
Walking rue Cler amps up the reward, bestowing a feeling that
you're one of THEM -- a real local -- a little more polished,
a smidge more well-bred than you feel at home.

Here's hoping you'll give this V.I.P. street a chance to seduce
your taste buds and activate your inner Parisian on the very next trip
you make to the most delicious city on the planet.

If you love the hum of an every day market street,
head for rue Montorgeuil in the heart of Paris.
You can't beat it, both for delicious foodstuffs and for great people watching.
In spite of all the tourists milling about and regardless of the
not-so-warmly-welcomed invasion of Starbucks, it still feels like Paris.
This is a time-honored neighborhood where history can never be erased,
undeterred by an avalanche of pumpkin spice lattes.

Marie Antoinette loved oysters fresh from the sea -- don't we all -- and it
was here that her court's master chefs received their
daily deliveries -- direct from Concale's* icy shores.
While most women would have given their eye-teeth for Marie's
royal jewels, I lust for her oysters.
Miraculously, we can still get our daily quotient of the queen's mollusks.
Rue Montorgeuil's oyster palace is Au Rocher de Concale, a traditional seafood restaurant with an oh so pretty facade and a legend that began in 1846.
Their claim-to-fame are the Bretagne oysters that Marie loved so much.
So now you know, Marie's legacy to Paris is so much more
than a prison cell and a scaffold.

If a genie showed up at my doorstep and say "You're wish is my command"
I'd be awfully tempted to ask for the queen's daily allotment of oysters,
happily showing up for my own delivery on rue Montorgeuil where the
icy freshness of the fresh catch and the sense of community would
perhaps make me a real Parisian now and forever.

"Eating a raw oyster is like french kissing a mermaid."
Chris Gardner, American businessman, author & motivational speaker

"You can be miserable before you have a cookie and you can be miserable after
you eat a cookie but you can't be miserable while you are eating a cookie."
Ina Garten, American Food Hostess & Author known affectionately as The Barefoot Contessa

Of course, not to be missed are rue Montorgeuil's sweetest offerings.
Patisserie Stohrer is the storybook ideal of a pastry shop.
Its legend began in the king's court in Poland where Nicholas Stohrer,
pastry chef to King Stanislas I came with the royal court to France when
the king's daughter married Louis XV of France.
In 1730, the enterprising chef left court and opened his own
shop in the very place it sits today.

Stohrer is beautiful with a to-die-for painted* ceiling, glittering chandeliers
and outrageously sultry pastries that include the original sweet treat
that put rue Montorgeuil on the map.
Baba au rhum, a much loved confection, is a small yeasty cake smothered in fine spirits and filled with pastry cream or chantilly.
It's a dessert that ranks high in many of Paris' finest brasseries -- another
delicious tradition that remains in vogue no matter what century you land in.
*painted by Paul Baudry, famous for his frescoes at the Palais Garnier.

One of the more popular stops on rue Cler is à la Mère de Famille,
a candy store with a tradition so long it would make Willy Wonka blush.
Though this golden oldie didn't make its debut on this particular street*,
it opened its doors here** due to its unrelenting popularity.
Suffice it to say, whatever your sweet tooth wants, it will be amply
rewarded -- chocolates, ice cream, pastries and more are on tap.
Be on the lookout for their particularly ravishing mendiants, a famous
french confection made of chocolate, nuts and dried fruit.
Thank you God!
*there are numerous locations throughout Paris so if you miss out this time, you'll run into another one soon.
**the first opened in 1761 on rue Faubourg Montmartre which is still open.

"After eating chocolate you feel godlike, as though you could conquer enemies,
lead armies, entice lovers.
Emily Luchetti, American pastry chef, lover of chocolate

Don't judge me. I can't get enough.

"Food, far more than sex, is the great leveler.
Just as every king, prophet, warrior and saint has a mother,
so every Napoleon, every Einstein, every Jesus has to eat."
Betty Fussell, American Food Writer

If a taste of escargot is on your must-do list, make a beeline for
L'Escargot Montorgueil where you'll find every way to enjoy the classic.
Bathed in butter, garlic and shallots or unconventionally covered in puff pastry,
you can immerse yourself in the indigenous roots of french cuisine.
If you enjoy dining in historic establishments, this 19th century eatery,
where Picasso and Proust once filled their bellies, is a rewarding way
to satisfy your hunger for both history and fine cuisine.

G. Detou isn't technically on rue Montorgeuil but it's close enough --a great place to stock up on salt from Brittany and special little treats for your pantry.

The French take pride in their long tradition of good food.
My own belief is that this all fits in with its well-earned reputation
as the world's celebrated city of love and romance.
If food is love -- and who doesn't agree with that -- then Paris and its
remarkable treasure of food markets is the most romantic place in the world.

Forgive me, but who could resist a reminder of Gene Kelly
singing to Leslie Caron in the 1951 film classic "An American in Paris"?

"Our Love is Here to Stay"

"It's very clear
Our love is here to stay
Not for a year
But ever and a day

The radio and the telephone
And the movies that we know
May just be passing fancies
And in time may go

But, oh my dear
Our love is here to stay
Together we're going a long, long way

In time the Rockies may crumble
Gibraltar may tumble
They're only made of clay
But our love is here to stay"
Lyrics by Georges Gerswin, American composer

Paris market superstars such as rue de Nil, rue Cler
and rue Montorgeuil are here to stay.
And so is our hunger for them.
Food and love fill our spiritual tank every day we're lucky enough to walk Paris.

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Angels in Paris - Chapelle Expiatoire

1/5/2020

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The Chapelle Expiatoire may be the monument
your overwrought conscience has been missing.
Too often left out of guidebooks and Paris tours, it's a
reminder of Paris' sometimes disagreeable past.
Perhaps like me, you'll find more than one reason to fall in love
with this beautiful and historical place.

EXPIATORY - the act of atonement
Making amends for acts of wrongdoing can be a lifelong project.
Muddling through life's challenges and confusing truths
often results in more questions than answers.
Most of us hope to bury our mistakes and make a turn for the better.

Paris is a wonderful place to celebrate life
and all the beautiful things that accompany it.
But it's also a place where even the most casual visitor faces the ugliness of
history and the regretful results of society's sometimes less than stellar behaviors.

Opened in 1826 to honor the memory of the deposed -- and beheaded --
King & Queen of France, the chapel sought to atone for the acts of violence committed during the French Revolution against the royals.
The memorial honors King Louis XVI, Queen Marie Antoinette and a curated
collection of others who succumbed to the gruesome truth of the guillotine.
The Chapel and its garden is a beautiful oasis in the heart of the city,
one that every Paris lover should slowly uncover and savor.

"Success is relative. It is what we make of the mess we have made of things."
T.S. Eliot

The Chapelle Expiatoire is located on the hallowed ground of the former
Madeleine Cemetery, one of several burial sites for those executed
during the bloody 2-year period we now call the Reign of Terror (1792-1794).
Charlotte Corday, Madame du Barry and dozens of Swiss Guards
savaged in the Tuileries Garden mob massacre
were some of the cemetery's well-known residents.

When the monarchy was briefly restored in 1814,
King Louis XVIII immediately transferred his brutalized brother
and sister-in-law to the Basilica of Saint-Denis.
He sent most of those buried in the Madeleine Cemetery
to the Paris Catacombs and began his pet construction project.
From the ashes of the Reign of Terror came the Chapelle Expiatoire.
Its stated purpose was to memorialize the king's dearly departed
brother, recasting Louis XVI's and Marie Antoinette's reputation.
The bloody French Revolution had scarred
the nation and sullied the family name.
With his atonement chapel, Louis XVIII hoped to absolve the sins of a nation.

"A king should die on his feet."
King Louis XVIII of France

Statue of Louis XVI looking toward heaven with an angel showing him the way.

For years the French nation wanted to forget its bloody past
so the Chapel Expiatoire was controversial.
By 1871, The Commune insisted it be torn down.
Cooler heads prevailed and still today, a mass is held in the chapel
every January 21st to commemorate the beheaded king.

The chapel is beautiful and calming.
It's ironic to consider history's bloodiest pages produced a memorial
as dreamy and gentle as this....

"It is not "forgive and forget" as if nothing wrong had ever happened,
but "forgive and go forward", building on the mistakes of the past
and the energy generated by reconciliation to create a new future."
Alan Paton, South African writer and anti-apartheid activist, author of "Cry, the Beloved Country"

Marie Antoinette holds on for dear life to "Religion", perhaps seeking a rewrite for her reputation.

The queens of France in all their glory

If you enjoy neoclassical architecture, you will love the Chapel Expiatoire.
Attached to the chapel is a little museum that's filled with treasures of the period.
It brings history to life and manages to make the royals
and their entourage a little more human.

Included is a photo of La Dame de Gourbillon
who headlined a scandal at court for years.
It's a juicy one, leading to her eventual removal from court
and still later, seizure of her letters to and from the queen.
Today's tabloids would have a field day with this one!

Madame de Gourbillon, the future queen's lady-in-waiting and "friend"

A letter from Louis XV dated 1771 is featured in the little museum

Beautiful stone arches separate the chapel from the museum

Supposedly the exact spot where King Louis XVI was laid to rest in the Madeleine Cemetery

The lovely garden is flanked by rows of centographs, built to honor
the Swiss Guards who unflinchingly died while defending the King.
In case you don't know their story, here's a quick overview.

In a defining moment of the French Revolution,
the revolutionaries -- aka the mob -- stormed the Tuileries Palace.
They wanted blood -- the king and queen's blood to be exact -- and their
terroristic intent could not be stopped.
There were close to 1000 Swiss Guards willing to
defend the castle and their monarch but to no avail.
An estimated 800 of them lost their lives during that hellish day in August of 1792. Dedicated to the memory of these lost soldiers,
the tombs honor the memory of those who served.

I often ask myself WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO BE THEM?

The world continues to brew a stew of hatred; too often I'm among
those wringing my hands and bellyaching about the "others".
It often feels like there are more of "them" than "us".
Hate crimes, ugly twitter feed and lies leave many of us feeling defeated.

We want truth but we need to learn to look for it in-between the lines.
Finding our better angels is not always easy.
The outrageous language and actions of others need not stain our own good hearts.
Showing respect for others through our own behavior is a good start.

Atonement. It's a loaded word.
Healing and moving on.
We need more of that.
Love vs Hate -- which do you choose?

"When they go low, we go high."
Michelle Obama, former First Lady of the United States

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Montmartre's Sleeping Beauty

3/21/2019

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Sexy, brash, unrestrained.... the very reason we race
to visit and re-visit fun-loving Montmartre.
Frantic and a bit sinful -- how can we help but love it.
But as in most love stories, too much of a good thing can be exhausting.

So on your next sojourn to the party side of town, veer a bit off the
beaten path and look for a very special "someone else".
Discover the more saintly side to mischievous Montmartre.
A real sleeping beauty, Cemetière Saint-Vincent is a peewee parcel of
greenery that offers more love and true-to-life authenticity per square foot
than some of the more famous Paris cemeteries.

A beautiful memorial garden, tiny and well kempt, the graveyard's
true claim-to-fame lies in the intimate feel it evokes.
Seeming to draw a lot of "business" from artistic Montmartre,
many of its residents hailed from the legendary village on the hill.
With wild-and-wooly Place du Tertre just steps away and
pretty-in-pink cabaret -- the Lapin Agile -- peeking over its shoulder,
Saint-Vincent Cemetery* offers a history lesson you won't soon forget.
Many of its gifted residents achieved fame as painters, composers,
writers and film makers who once called Paris home.
*Don't confuse this with Montmartre Cemetery, located near the Moulin Rouge.

If you've always longed for breathing space in rowdy,
jam-packed Montmartre, this is your lucky day.

"An artist has no home in Europe except for Paris."
Friedrich Nietzsche, philosopher

After visiting the Musée de Montmartre* the year before, I could hardly wait for
the chance to pay my respects to one of my favorite local artists, Maurice Utrillo.
His lifelike canvases of Montmartre speak volumes of his own
experience in this much painted neighborhood.
*if-montmartre-could-talk.html

If you enjoy poster art, look for Jules Chéret's gravesite.
Nicknamed Father of the Modern Poster, Chéret's work has stood
the test of time, his colorful images and lettering providing a glimpse
into the future of art as a modern marketing medium.

Though you may not have heard of the Debray family before,
surely you'll recognize the symbol of their claim to fame.
Long-time millers by trade, they eventually transformed one of their
working windmills into artist magnet Moulin de la Galette.
You'll find the family vault in the cemetery; the famous restaurant -- the same
one made famous by Renoir's inimitable brushstrokes -- is just a few blocks away.

Marcel Carné, French film director, is perhaps best known for the 1945 classic
"Les Enfants du Paradis," hailed as one of the best films of all time.
If you dote on vintage or unconventional cinema and its well-earned
place as a popular art form, then this one's for you.

During past visits to Montmartre, you may have already admired
the famous wall sculpture La Passe-Mureille.
The spooky image shows up in everyone's favorite photos of the
neighborhood, its man-in-a-jam trying to walk right through the wall.
This uncanny sculpture was inspired by a short story of the
same name -- "The Man Who Walked through Walls" written by
Marcel Aymé, a master French storyteller.
In case you're hunting down a sweet children's storybook,
check out Aymé's "The Wonderful Farm" illustrated by
Marice Sendak's "Where the Wild The Wild Things Are".
Perhaps Sendak was thinking of a wild Montmartre Saturday night
when he dreamed up his infamous wild things...….

Arthur Honegger, a much admired 20th century composer,
is buried in Cemetière Saint-Vincent.
One of his most famous works - "Pacific 231" -- was inspired by
his fondness for locomotives.
Translating the rush and squeal of engines into deliberate music,
the lauded virtuoso was amazingly successful.
But I like him best for this ironic quote:
"There is no doubt that the first requirement for a composer is to be dead."

My favorite little marker in the cemetery -- perfectly fitting for one of the Montmartre locals.

Can you believe this poster is over 100 years old and still in demand? This cat has more than 9 lives....

In his day, artist Eugene Boudin was a pretty big deal.
Beach scenes, windswept harbors, and the brilliant light of the outdoors
made him one of the more memorable originators of "en plein air" painting.
The landscape painter was an early influence in the work of Monet, his soft,
mood-setting canvases provoking the gifted impressionist
and other artists to focus on the great outdoors.
If you've ever visited the gorgeous port city of Honfleur,
you'll recognize his inspiration.

Long before "Cats" came to the stage, posters of cats became de rigueur.
Theophile Steinlen's "Tournée du Chat Noir" brought him fame,
with a striking style that never seems to age.
These days, you'll find copies of this very image on posters
at Walmart and coffee cups from Amazon.

One of the most unusual gravestone markers (sorry, I forgot to take a photo)
belongs to ceramic artist Nicolas Platon-Argyriades and his wife.
Peeking through a window in their burial-house, they seem almost playful.
Or weird. You choose.
Platon-Argyriades specialized in faïence ceramics, much of his work one-of-a-kind.

A typical Jules Cheret poster -- colorful, lively, and modern in style.

As a neighborhood, Montmartre is certainly one of our favorites in Paris.
It's all about the contrasts -- imaginative and lovable, crowded and a bit kooky,
we wouldn't dream of visiting Paris without a stop on the hill.
We cherish every high-spirited inch of it.

So if you're going, plan to stay a while.
And of course you know what that means.
Plan to linger over a long lunch or dinner.

Just far enough away from the push and shove of the crowd
is a lovely bistro that specializes in chicken.
Le Coq Rico is a find in the middle of a touristy
and sometimes disappointing restaurant scene.

Appetizers really count in Paris -- Don't skip this course!

It's always a joy to discover a never-before-tasted French specialty.
It must have been my lucky day; Chicken Vol-au-Vent was on the menu.
It's a mind-blowing puff pastry creation that's true to its name -- light as air.

From the appetizer -- oeufs a la russe -- to the dessert -- caramel au beurre sale
(rice pudding with a salted caramel topping), lunch was divine.
I never did find out why the chicken crossed the road, but I did
figure out why King Henry IV's manifesto --"un poule au pot le Dimanche" --
put a chicken in every pot every Sunday -- was such a fine idea.

When you visit a cemetery, life feels just
a little more precious than it did the day before.
The peace and quiet helps clear your mind; the sun seems
to shine brighter; the flowers seem a bit more colorful.
And to top it off, you get to "meet" really great people such as
cemetery angels like local artist Georges Rose whose simple and
on-point marker gave me goosebumps.

These spirits of Montmartre lightened my mood and made me think.
It's not just time to seize the day;
it's time to rocket launch our life span on earth and seize EVERY day.

Hope you've enjoyed this little tour of the diminutive Cemetière de Saint-Vincent.
I look forward to seeing you there one day.
Above ground....of course.

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Paris Untamed: Call of the Wild

9/22/2018

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Paris is always an adventure, each experience a
a golden opportunity to walk through an undiscovered portal.

But some of these adventures are more surprising than others.
The last thing you'd expect in the most cultured city in the world
is an in-your-face romp with some of nature's best gifts.
That's exactly what you get when you visit the "wild"
in the very civilized cultural phenomenon called the
Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature.

How often in one's lifetime can you walk right up to a polar bear
and practically feel its beating heart?
Well, ok, I have a good imagination.
Gorillas, cheetahs and a smorgasbord of wild animals are
the "quiet" tenants of this Marais mansion, a beautiful
guesthouse suited up for even the most savage lodgers.
Contemporary design melts into traditional French décor,
transforming what may have come off as an oddly dressed up zoo
into an elegant and graceful historic home.

Paintings by Rubens and Bruegel, sculpture by Jean-Michel Othoniel,
and ceramics by Jeff Koons are what you'd expect to see
in a Paris mansion museum.
But here, they've turn up the volume.
By integrating the wild kingdom alongside its prestigious artworks,
the Hunting and Nature Museum offers one of the most unexpected
and fiercely unique experiences in Paris.

Now before you get squeamish thinking about taxidermied animals and
the sometimes unpopular sport of hunting, please consider this.

The museum puts the importance of wildlife CONSERVATION front and center.
Founders Francois and Jacqueline Sommer were committed animal
protection advocates who put their backbone and bank account into an
earnest effort to promote serious conservation work.
They strongly believed that hunting and wildlife conservation go hand in hand.

"Never doubt that a small group of committed citizens can change the world;
indeed, it is the only thing that ever has."
Margaret Meade

So why in heavens name would a HUNTING and NATURE museum turn up
in the worldly and cosmopolitan capital of France?

The act of hunting has long enjoyed a revered place in French history.
Dig deep into the national culture and you'll see just how important the hunt is. Think of the acres and acres of countryside just outside Paris -- the great
forest of Fontainebleau and the chateaux country of the Loire -- playgrounds
to the kings and court of France, home to all things wild.

Since prehistoric times -- consider the famous cave paintings in Lascaux --
France has been a hunter's paradise.
Home base for a rich French tradition, this was a culture that
appealed equally to monarchs and provincials alike.
The "haves" considered it sport while the
"have-nots" relied on hunting as its mainstay for food gathering.

You can't think of France without conjuring up all the good things
at the French table where meat has long been considered
the knockout punch in its glorious history.
When it comes to culture and tradition, nothing overshadows French gastronomy. Rabbits, wild boar and game birds still appear on the menus of our
beloved bistros much as they did centuries ago.

I adore a museum that offers heaping helpings of emotion
alongside its priceless treasures.
The Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature does just that.

Gory scenes of the hunt spark horror & bloodlust but irony takes over
as you discover a sweet and sentimental balance in the same room.
A display of antique dog collars melted my heart, their "jewelry" physical proof
of the care and indulgence devoted to man's best friend.
Affectionate displays of beloved hunting dogs put the sometimes
politically incorrect hunt in a completely different light.
It made this non-hunter realize a huntsman is much like a traveler -- or
a foodie or an art lover -- all of us faithfully committed to our personal passions.

Pull-out drawers filled with surprising little treasures like these buttons tell the history of the hunt.

This is a great place to figure out there's nothing to be gained
by assuming you know everything.
If we hope to learn more about conservation of our resources,
we need to understand and appreciate a different point of view.
I don't "love" thinking about hunting but I walked away respecting what
hunters do for the land and the future of generations to come.

Responsible hunting actually protects the environment so we can
long enjoy the fruits of our diverse nature.
It's the holy grail of museums -- rooms filled to the brim
with gorgeous art, furniture and animals, as well as an opportunity
to expand our intellectual consciousness -- all within the beautiful walls
of a restored 17th century mansion.

"La Nuit de Diane" proves the theory WHEN IN PARIS, ALWAYS LOOK UP.

The guns and weaponry are as impressive a collection as I've seen anywhere.
Some of the rooms feature pull-out drawers -- a hands-on approach that allows visitors access to curated collections of some pretty amazing stuff --- buttons
from uniforms, tools, guns, hunting accessories.... and more.

It's as if the lord of the manor offered you the chance to
rummage through his medicine cabinet -- except that your host is a
French aristocrat and his cabinets are filled with priceless mouthfuls of history.

A fan favorite is an extraordinary ceiling made of real feathers.
"The Night of Diane" by Belgium artist Jan Fabre features six owl
heads -- including glass eyes that seem to scan the room.
It's exceptional -- both beautiful and weird -- and could lead to
nighttime terrors if you let your imagination run wild.

But since most of us are hopeless Paris romantics,
this is a room of wonder -- maybe even an inspirational theme worth
"borrowing" for your next DIY project -- assuming you can get your hands
on thousands of duck, pheasant and partridge feathers.....

A hunting lodge room -- shades of Ernest Hemingway....

If mounted animals heads and fearsome weaponry aren't your cup of tea --
and I'll certainly admit to being in that category -- this museum mansion may
help you gain a new respect for the artfulness and influence of its collection.
It's obvious the collectors and curators have taken great pains in their efforts,
even providing a reasonable teaching moment if your head is in the right place.

The Hunting and Nature Museum reflects France's refined civilization.
Much like all the other things this passionate country does,
you have to admire the ART and FLAIR they put into it.

Think about it.
We're all "hunters" in Paris.
Always hunting for the best café or the best deal on a pair of Christian Louboutins.
We hunt down unique neighborhoods and the best prix fixed menus.
We are all hunter-gatherers in our own way.

I had avoided this museum for far too long because of its name and ties
to hunting -- something I wasn't remotely interested in.
Sometimes learning something new is uncomfortable.
Yet feeling a bit uncomfortable is a good way to freshen up your
stubborn old concepts and spark a little intellectual creativity.
Stop being afraid of seeing something in a different light.
I can only speak for myself but I'm so happy I finally opened
the door to this eye-opening and fantastically intriguing experience.

Happy hunting at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature.
I hope you'll make a date with a grizzly on your next trip to Paris.

Remember that old song "Who Let the Dogs Out?"

Wildlife is an important part of our over-burdened environment.
We should treasure it while we have it and do our part in taking care of it.

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A Pedestrian in Paris

11/6/2017

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In today's self-help society, we're often reminded,
it's the journey, not the destination....
The truth, of course, is far more complicated.
When in Paris, it's both the journey and the destination.

The art of travel double-dips into our emotions.
Nostalgic flashbacks of previous visits commingle with
our endeavors to live more in the moment.
It's healthy to recall best-loved loved journeys even
as we're on the prowl for fresh sights, experiences and emotions.

Whenever we try to get from Point A to Point B on the Paris map, we've
learned it's a good idea to take an extra minute to ponder these comfortable memories of times past while searching for something new and uncharted.

Inspiration comes in many forms so paint a picture in your head; stay sharp.
Lost in thoughts and dreams, it's easy -- and mistaken -- to
become absorbed in the task alone.

I've long considered Paris to be the sweetest spot on earth.
Paris was built for pedestrians; it's a virtual walk on cloud nine.
If we wholly commit to the culture of traveling on foot, we can center
our focus on unexplored territory at the very time we're enjoying
the most basic of Paris' simple charms.

"Let your mind start a journey through a strange new world.
Leave all thoughts of the world you knew before. Let your soul take you
where you long to be......and you'll live as you've never lived before."
Erich Fromm, psychoanalyst, philosopher, writer

Walking Paris is a religious experience for many of us.
We become connected -- mind and body -- to the city we love most.

But where do we begin?
Friends are always quizzing me about what to see and do in Paris.
At times, I want to pull my hair out, especially when
they've only allowed a few hurried days of "sight-seeing."
The challenge of narrowing down this magnificent city to a list
of must-sees is both frustrating and unreasonable.

I can't possibly send them down every street/alley/corridor
that I've discovered and fallen in love with.
Nor do I care to stuff my incessant infatuation down their throats.
Instead, I try my best to offer a taste of a bit of this and bit of that,
careful to include not just cathedrals and museums but also a few of my
favorite boulangeries, parks, and local markets to get them started.

I slow-walk them through the Metro, my favorite way to get around the city
when I'm not dancing down its magical pathways on two feet.
And I encourage them to get lost -- to take control of their amusement/education/pleasure by veering off guidebook plans
and onto their own impromptu stairway to heaven.
It's transforming when you gather the guts to change the channel.
Some of our happiest moments begin when we stumble on one
thing while looking for something else.

The only rule for walking is this:
Don't travel with any hard and fast rules.

Instead, rely on a few hard learned insights:

1. Soak it all up before you move on.
Though it may sound trite to say "stop and smell the roses," it's sound advice. When you're in the middle of something unexpected -- colorful,
quirky, surprising -- stop cold and enjoy the moment.

2. Sit down!
Sure, I'm talking about being a pedestrian in Paris, but that
includes taking a seat; Take a time out for the little things:
Champagne. A plate of olives. People watching. Whatever floats your boat.
Abandon the walk for at least an hour to recharge your battery.

3. Visit a cemetery.
It doesn't have to be the biggest or the most famous -- although who can resist
a couple of hours in Père Lachaise? Hunting down Jim Morrison and
Edith Piaf provides sexy fodder for your photo album, but I promise, you may
find something even more memorable as you casually wander around,
discovering the artistry and emotional impact of those immortalized for all time.

4. Eat something that scares you.
And for heaven's sake, don't just stick to the same cheese you eat at home.
Skip the brie and try some etorki.

5. Don't be an over-achiever.
Take time to enjoy the sun.
Then pause to enjoy a gray day when the city's most
iconic architecture looks more ravishing than ever.

6. Remember that Hemingway was into walking Paris, too.
Just like you. Go ahead, find your inner celebrity.

7. Learn a little about who came before you.
Paris is much more than a long list of kings and artists you already recognize.
Check out those who may inspire you on a new level:
Aristide Maillol, AJ Liebling, the Knights Templar, Napoleon III
(no, it's not the guy you're thinking of).... the possibilities are endless.

8. Wonder out loud how the 2024 Summer Olympics
is going to change the city.
It's a good conversation starter in a café.

9. Observe kids and dogs -- always well-behaved & adorable. Almost as amazing as The French Paradox.

10. Make like an astronaut.
"One small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind" ...
Find your inner explorer and walk off the beaten trail.
Peek into doors and courtyards every chance you get.

11. Embrace your imagination.
That couple over there, is it love or a torrid affair?
Eavesdrop, ask questions, google everything that makes your head spin.
Who is this Mistinguett/Balzac/Baron Haussmann I keep hearing about?
Find out and then write your own story.

12. Spend a day searching out art deco* or art nouveau**.
*Begin here: Jardins du Trocadero & Palais Chaillot
**Begin here: 29 Avenue Rapp and H. Guimard's metro entrances

13. If you're shallow (like me), spend long hours
staring into jewelry store windows.

14. If you're insatiable (like me), spend long hours
staring into cheese shop windows.
Chocolate, ice cream, pastry shops work here as well..... too many temptations to count...

15. I usually don't go for quantity but...
...on the subject of beautiful Paris bridges, try to see and
walk across as many as possible -- twice.

16. Look up, look down, behold inspiration
from every direction.
Paris is a marvel.

17. Go ahead, spend a bit more €€ than you planned.
Life is ridiculously short. Oysters + Sancerre are pricey.
You're worth it and damn it, you don't really need that new phone.
How 'bout that manicure? -- Save your dough and get more Paris.

18. Play make-believe.
House Hunters International fans, if you can't afford to call Adrian Leeds,
strike out on your own and peruse the residential neighborhoods.
Bonus: No need to give a fig about the "perfect view" or that extra bedroom
for friends & family....just enjoy the fantasy.

19. Water, H2O, the essence of life.
Yes, the news stories are true.
You can find FREE SPARKLING WATER at a number of Paris fountains.
Only in Paris. Drink up.

20. Think Twice about Climate Change
Paris is the place where we should all consider
the ramifications of our presence on earth.
There's always time to make the whole world better.
This green city works every day to walk the walk -- and so should we.

Joie de Vivre - Yes, it's real.
Here in Paris, you won't have to look far to find it.

Paris is for pedestrians who can't sit still for long.
They take delight in being alive, grateful for the chance to soak up the dream.

Life can feel like a Matisse painting if you choose to sit in the front row.
Walk to wake up. Walk to expand your intellect. Walk to find your personal joy.
Walk Paris and feel the love.
If you need a little more inspiration, crank the music up.

Fly Away

"I wish that I could fly
Into the sky
So very high
Just like a dragonfly
I'd fly above the trees
Over the seas in all degrees
To anywhere I please
Oh I want to get away
I want to fly away
Yeah yeah yeah
I want to get away
I want to fly away
Yeah yeah yeah
Let's go and see the stars
The milky ways or even Mars
Where it could just be ours
Let's fade into the sun
Let your spirit fly
Where we are one
Just for a little fun
Oh oh oh yeah"

Lyrics by Lenny Kravitz

I think he must have been to Paris, don't you?

4 Comments

A Traveler's Creed

9/21/2017

4 Comments

Travel junkies know the feeling well.
You wake up knowing you're going to remember this day
forever -- little bites of time that are the stuff dreams are made of.

Travel milestones are flashes of a life well lived and -- just maybe --
the last thoughts we'll savor as we take our last breath on earth.

Now before you call me Debbie Downer for contemplating
such gloomy notions, chew on this Eleanor Roosevelt quote:

"Don't wait because right now is the oldest you've ever been
and the youngest you'll ever be again."

Mrs. Roosevelt was one wise women.
Let TODAY be the day; GO FOR IT.
None of us want to swallow the bitter pill of regret when the lights go out.
Use those frequent flier miles and live your dreams now.

"You don't get to choose how you are going to die. Or when.
You can only decide how you are going to live. Now."
Joan Baez, American folksinger, songwriter, activist

We literally stumbled onto a movie set one day when visiting Bordeaux -- a real period piece.

Tick Tock, time mercilessly winks at us every single day -- so
much so, the circle of life sometimes feels like a bad punchline.
Sunshine and belly-laughs if you're in a good place,
a shrug of the shoulders and a yawn if you're not....

I've never understood why people refer to travel as leisure time.
Tranquility is one thing but it's the adventure and discovery part
that incites our joyful spirit, ensuring we sparkle with life.

Isn't it about time to think about how to get the most out of living?
The more I contemplate what's ahead for me, the more I understand
a good life doesn't just happen; we have to make well-considered choices.
It all adds up over a lifetime -- bits and pieces, minute flecks of memories
that feel like gold -- heart and conscience, images and attitudes,
cares and celebrations that make up our existence here on earth.

Travel makes up such a large part of this,
its contribution rich, rewarding and worth the effort.

Lunch under the trees - long, lingering, lovely is France at its best.

Only in France: an abbey-turned-winery, the Abbaye de Valmagne will make you count your blessings.

Paris offers many quiet, village-like streets that get you away from the crowds & mayhem of the city.

I've lived a wonderful existence, so lucky to have
the time and opportunity for the next big journey.
But like most people, I'm always hoping for MORE so as
the years pass, I've come to realize I can't see and do it all.

The hard conclusion: It's time to get a bit more sober about trip planning.
In order to extend this travel lifestyle as long as possible, we need to
pack a lot of life into realistic pockets of time -- and of course,
that means MORE FRANCE.
Paris, yes. Provence, yes. Anywhere in France, yes.
North, South, East or West, if it's in France, it will enrich your life.

Why does this one country affect me so deeply?
It never fails to deliver passion, red hot joy, and goosebumps.
Beautiful raw emotion banishes the gray cynical side of us -- the
perfect medicine for a mid-life crisis or the monotony of everyday routine.

Over the years, I've noticed the slower I travel,
the better the experience, the longer the memory.
These days, we try not to jump from place to place at the same pace
we kept at the dawn of our travel adventures.

Narrowing down the choices makes it easy to spend most
of our travel time and $$$ in beautiful France.
It's funny, but when I daydream about some of the best times over the years,
it always comes down to (1) the people I'm traveling with -- husband, daughter, sister, brother and all loved ones attached to them -- and (2) sentimental
little mood enhancers that tug at my heartstrings and make me happy.

This morning I woke up thinking about a nice tall citron pressé,
a classic French drink if there every was one.
It practically sings of summertime, café culture, and the things we
love about the graceful French lifestyle.

See how that works?
Many of you have told me about your favorite little recollections of France.
Who knows, those memories may be our last thoughts on the day of judgment.

- Whether it was the scarf section at Galleries Lafayette or the breathtaking vendors
at the perfume counter, an encounter at a Paris department store will last a lifetime.

- A long green lawn with a spectacular castle sitting at the end -- who will
ever forget their first trip to chateau country in the Loire.

- First tastes are everything -- whether it's truffles or ice cream,
France will win you over at first bite.

- Being mistaken for a local, walking into Shakespeare & Company
for the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd time, sitting next to a celebrity at lunch or
getting your hair done, everything feels like a thrill
the first time you experience it in fabulous France.

France offers landscapes that sometimes feel too good to be true.

The Rules from This Day Forward:

(1) Now is the time to get serious about living life to the fullest.
(2) Refuse to fall into geezer-hood.
(3) Look for opportunity rather than waiting for it to happen.

Don't wait! A trip to France may change your life forever --- it did mine.

Go ahead, scratch that travel itch.
Live your dreams now, long before you reach the end of the road.
Live Long, Live Happy!

"I want my dreams to come easy, good moments to pass slow,
and each road I take lead me to where I want to go."
Melchor Lim, author

4 Comments

Homegrown Pleasures in Paris

12/21/2016

2 Comments

Food -- a recurring theme in my Paris travels.
And quite naturally a persistent daydream once I get home.

But not all of my Paris food fantasies are restaurant driven.
It's a bit like pondering which came first: the chicken or the egg?
Paris is so well known for its intoxicating restaurant scene that we tend
to lose sight of the where what and why it's such an enduring pleasure.
Cracking this particular code may be where our favorite chefs begin their day.

The daily market is essential to Paris life, particularly for
those of us who worship our daily feeding.
Starting your day at a local market is a great way to
launch your Paris food adventure.

There are many choices out there and most of us have our return trip favorites.
But this time, my foodie radar took a different turn.
Most of us realize it's always a good idea to branch out a bit on the
restaurant scene; likewise it makes sense to spread your wings
and discover a new market or two on your next Paris trip.
And oh boy, did I make the right decision.
I chose a marché that some of the best chefs in the city single out as a favorite.

"It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts
while eating a homegrown tomato."
Lewis Grizzard, American Humorist

Welcome to
Marché President Wilson,
sometimes called Marché du Pont d'Alma.
Every Wednesday and Friday, regular Parisians, chefs,
foodwriters and adventurous food lovers flock to this
one-of-a-kind food paradise in the 16th arrondissement.

Now before you say the 16th is too out of the way for you, consider this.
This part of the seizième curls up back to butt with the 7th, right in the heart
of the museum district* and within shouting distance of the Eiffel Tower.
It's a metro ride away (Iéna or Alma-Marceau) from just about anywhere.

The good stuff you expect -- vegetables, fruit, fish, meat, cheese,
flowers, olives, spices, baked goods -- all exceptional, all lovingly displayed by
vendors who are straightforward, ready to assist the admiring herd of hungry.
Then there are the ready-to-eat stalls where you'll wish you had remembered
to pack your picnic utensils so you could dig in right here, right now.
Think paella, choucroute, quiche, and crepes.
And oh, if you fancy a new sweater, you'll find it here, too,
snuggled inbetween housewares and fresh pasta.

Yes, Marché President Wilson has a lot going for it and may help you understand why going to market is such an important ritual in the daily life of a typical Parisian.
If a roving market like this is set up only two days a week, why bother?
Isn't is easier just to go to the market street down the block or a grocery chain?
The pat response is yes, but doesn't begin to address what's sexy and so aesthetically pleasing about the fine art of this complex food culture.

The orderly arrangement and color-coded perfection of a green grocer's stall
invites new customers, certainly, but it's the quality of his produce
and expert advice that keeps them coming back again and again.
Roving markets employ thousands of merchants around the city so consumers deduce if this one has been up and running successfully
since 1873 (!!), they're encouraged it's apt to be worth their time and money.

*Although all of Paris boasts its fair share of Paris museums, this quarter boasts some biggies such as Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, literally just a few streets away from the market.

"Fish, to taste right, must swim three times -- in water, in butter, in wine."
Polish Proverb

The day I visited, I must have needed my B and D vitamins because
I couldn't turn my eyes away from the fish and shellfish stalls.
Row after row of scallops slept soundly in their gorgeous fan-shaped shells
while mountains of oysters and mussels made me forget for a moment
that Paris is not a seaside resort.

When thoughts of the sad little plastic wrapped poisson at home
ran through my head, I vowed never again
to buy fish of such pathetic old age and distant origin.
Next came the produce section where I realized I need to ixnay
the sorry looking fennel presented on my grocer's shelf
stateside -- not to mention leeks, mushrooms and a whole lot more
shrinkwrapped, Monsanto-sprayed gobbledygook -- all of which pale
in comparison to the gorgeous green goods at this lovely market.

You will do a happy dance when you discover what this marvelous
open-air market has to offer -- but it will also give you much to think about.
Consider this, you can buy a gorgeous heirloom tomato from the same vendor
who services restaurant elite like Pierre Gagniere and Alain Ducasse.
It's true, in a Parisian market like this, whether you're chef, king or commoner
you can expect to get the good stuff, the superior quality and sound vendor
advice as well as good karma for contributing to
sustainable farming and many locally grown foods.

It makes you wonder if this is the reason for the bitterly fought French Revolution.
Liberté égalité fraternité -- displayed under a
striped awning -- a delicious harvest of pure Paris magic.

This produce stall reminds me of an artist's palette -- a gallery of good taste.

Yes, bien sur, they'll offer you a taste if you ask nicely.

Amazingly, even ugly root vegetables look good in a market like this.

Outstanding wine at every day prices make for one happy shopping experience.

This STREET FOOD will make you sing for your supper.

I've always thought bringing home a bouquet of flowers
is an effortless way to add a little joy to everyday life.
At Marché President Wilson, whether you make the purchase or not,
you're sure to feel a sense of joie de vivre as you pass row after row of
colorful cuttings, their mismatched shape and delightful aroma
breathing new life into everyone's morning.

Of course, if you ask the merchant a few stalls away what's prettier than a
rose-colored bloom, he'll point -- proud as a peacock -- to his chickens,
the ultra special Poulet de Bresse variety that Parisians in the know look for.

And this is why we all fall in love with France.
Roses and chickens, thoughtfully displayed, doted on in equal measure
for the pleasure of all lucky enough to plug into a french market.

So the next time you sit down to feast at one of your favorite Parisian restaurants, take a moment to think about where they source their food.
It's important to find a eatery with a talented chef, sure, but it's equally critical
that the boss is thoughtful when procuring their bread and butter.

Such mindfulness for food origin shows up in every bite you take.

No need to call your financial advisor this year.
When it comes to this particular market, I have infinite optimism.
At Marché President Wilson, the odds are always in our favor.

Bon Appetit!

2 Comments

Chasing Rainbows in Paris

11/22/2016

4 Comments

Confession:
There is one thing I don't like about Paris.
I still haven't seen all of it.

Every step I take, every pilgrimage I initiate,
the goal remains the same:
Take in one more street than last time.

Most of us know we need to venture, as they say, "off the beaten path"
but if you really want to get to know Paris, you need to broaden your horizons beyond the most tourist-celebrated parts of the city.
Draft a strategy to discover new neighborhoods and the locals who inhabit them.

With every last ounce of energy, I bend over backwards
to get to know and embrace this wonderful city.
OK, so it's a bit kooky but this is an affair of the heart, the one spot
on this planet that exhilarates every nerve ending in my body.
With every border crossing and each new street I manage to unveil,
that commitment and my love of Paris is redoubled.

That's why I especially enjoy my make-believe world of House Hunters Paris.
No, I don't actually ring up Adrian Leeds to initiate a true house hunt -- although
that's a frequent fantasy many of us relish -- but quite literally pound
the pavement of residential Paris neighborhoods in search of
my "perfect" home -- and encourage you to do the same.
Quiet residential streets are a sort of museum art form in and of themselves.

"You'll never find a rainbow if you're looking down."
Charlie Chaplin

So exactly what is the ideal Paris neighborhood?
The truth is, I have no idea; it's all in the eye of the beholder.
The fun lies in creating a fantasy world of hope and dreams.
As long as it's somewhere inside the twenty
arrondissements of Paris, I'd be happy just about anywhere.

But since we're chasing rainbows today, I may as well point out a few front-runners.

Rue Crémieux is anything but your typical Paris block
of Haussmannian architecture.
Its kaleidocscopic, pastel houses are downright cheerful for a city
routinely described as "classic", "majestic," imposing."

Located in the colorful 12th arrondissement,
rue Crémieux's cobbled pedestrianized path is filled with fetching
little idiosyncracies and hallmarks courtesy of its lucky inhabitants.
Imagine a rainbow of multicolored homes, adorned with terracotta pots filled
with everything from flowers to tomatoes budding beneath fun trompe-l'oeil
designs that reflect the offbeat imagination of this unforgettable street.

I often think the word charming is one of the most overused words in the English language but in the case of rue Crémieux, you cannot say it enough.
But don't stop here; you're on a roll.

Is this a fashion spread in the making or are the residents really this beautiful??

Searching for your Paris dream home is as delicious as
discovering your favorite bistro in Paris.
Couscous today, duck confit tomorrow?
That's right, your vision may change as often as your appetite
so let's head over to another perfect course
just across from beautiful Parc Montsouris.

Square Montsouris is much like that delectable first bite of foie gras.
Silky, full-flavored, earthy and rich -- a true indulgence.
Who could be so fortunate to live in such a state of grace?

In the 1920's, these homes were built or occupied by many notable artists.
This is Montparnasse, after all, champion of the Paris creative community.
Famous names like Corbusier, Claude Bouscau, Roger Bissiêre, Amédée Ozenfant and Tsuguharu Foujika are all
associated with this aesthetic neighborhood.

My legs literally felt weak when I first laid eyes
on this little eat-your-heart-out patch of sighs.
Its striking mix of red brick, terracotta and half-timber combined
with a stylish comingling of competing artistic styles -- a bit art deco,
a bit Tudor, a bit mountain villa -- that all come
together in one jaw-dropping house hunt.

Quiet as the countryside, the irresistible blend of mosaics,
stained glass and greenery will win your heart in a landslide.
We tiptoed through the neighborhood in order to
respect its peaceful perfection.
A national treasure, I hope Square Montsouris' dignity
is preserved for many generations to come.

Perhaps every day feels like a birthday if you're lucky enough to live in
Cité des Fleurs, a gorgeous slice of Paris' 17th arrondissement.
One very famous birth was once celebrated in this village-like neighborhood. Catherine Deneuve - yes, la Deneuve hereself, was born on this tranquil little rue.
It's only fitting "the most beautiful woman in the world" would hail
from one of the most beautiful streets in Paris.

The village-like atmosphere is both elegant and inviting
though at times Cité des Fleurs is gated and closed.
The pedestrian street is photo-shoot ready yet
asserts an aura of family and warm familiarity.

It's all in the details, darling!
Created in 1847, the estate homes, though singular and clearly defined
by independent style, came with their own set of "subdivision" rules.
Homeowners had to plant at least three trees in each yard and crown their pillars with ornate vases in the 19th century version of keeping up with the Joneses.

Cité des Fleurs makes for a delightful walk on a weekend afternoon.
Take a break from the noise and stress of the outside city and feel the calm.
Perhaps this is where the term "bed of roses" was invented....
at the very least, you may think you catch a lovely
whiff of Ms. Deneuve's signature Chanel scent.

I met a very handsome gentleman on the street of Cité des Fleurs -- Salut!

Beauty cannot replace the ugliness that occurred here during WWII -- Gestapo raid and ensuing death of Resistance heroes.

Encompassing just two little streets that form a triangle,
Square des Peupliers packs a powerful punch.

Ivy covered walls and uneven cobblestones make this tiny neighborhood
worth the detour deep into the 13th arrondissement.
Iron gates, lush landscaping and pretty porch coverings will propel the
green-eyed devil in you with house-hunter-envy so make sure you revisit
the scripture verse about coveting thy neighbor's house.....

Seriously, in an arrondissement normally described as modest and/or
working-class, this is a neighborhood that pours on the pretty.
You'll feel a bit tipsy with delight.

Check out the pretty doorways and itty-bitty details of each
home so lovingly tended by these city dwellers.
Square des Peupliers is an outdoor museum of expressive style.
You may be tempted to cancel your hotel reservation and pitch a tent....

Remember that silly old game show "Let's Make a Deal"?
Monty Hall would challenge the players to choose what's behind door #1,
door #2 or door #3 and you always held your breath, eager that some hopeful schlub would get lucky, winning a new car or something really over-the-top.

I still believe.
Whichever door you choose to open, when you're in Paris,
you're going to get lucky.
When it comes to Paris fantasies, I'm with Kermit the Frog.
These fairytale villages of my dreams are as real as my blind faith in Paris.

"The Rainbow Connection"
from "The Muppet Movie"
Please sing in your best Kermit the Frog voice!

"Live the fantasy, live the dream.
Why are there so many songs about rainbows
And what's on the other side
Rainbows are visions
But only illusions
And rainbows have nothing to hide
So we've been told
And some choose to believe it
I know they're wrong, wait and see
Some day we'll find it
The rainbow connection
The lovers, the dreamers, and me
Who said that every wish
Would be heard and answered
When wished on the morning star
Somebody thought of that
And someone believed it
And look what it's done so far
What's so amazing
That keeps us stargazing
And what do we think we might see
Someday we'll find it
The rainbow connection
The lovers, the dreamers, and me
All of us under its spell, we know that it's probably magic
Have you been half asleep?
And have you heard voices?
I've heard them calling my name
Is this the sweet sound
That called the young sailors?
The voice might be one in the same
I've heard it too many times to ignore it
It's something that I'm supposed to be
Someday we'll find it
The rainbow connection
The lovers, the dreamers and me
La da da di da da dum da duh da da dum di da ohhh"

Songwriter:
PAUL WILLIAMS
Published by
Lyrics © Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC, Warner/Chappell Music, Inc.,
Walt Disney Music Company, Universal Music Publishing Group

Read more: Muppets - Rainbow Connection Lyrics | MetroLyrics

I hope you track down your very own special rainbow in Paris.
No doubt, there's a field of dreams made just for you inside the City of Light.
Hope to see you there!

There's plenty of green space here, enough for both Kermit the Frog and me.....

4 Comments

Falling for Paris

10/28/2016

11 Comments

Like so many before me, I fell hard for Paris
the moment I laid eyes on her many years ago.
  A wonderland chock-full of elegant avenues and quaint village-like streets,
it felt like I had stepped into a storybook of kept promises and all things good.
My wide-eyed fascination only continued to grow after years of
inspecting and cherishing the many wonders of this famous city.

Fresh off my latest visit, I can honestly say
I fell harder than ever for the City of Light.
Literally.
Face first.
True, I fell head over heels in love with the City of Light many years ago
but this time, I tumbled nose-first in a plot of dirt in between
the tombstones of Montmartre Cemetery.

Splat. My nose bled for three days.
  Half my face looked like steak tartare.
And my poor sister, witness to the calamity, had to put up with the bloodbath
that followed us all the way to Place Pigalle where we sought help from the
ever present wisdom of a French pharmacy.
   And yes, the pain, the gore, the forever altered sinus cavity
and commensurate worry was worth every single drop of sang rouge spilled by
this American who will never say never for a chance to live la vie Parisienne.

Under the best of circumstances, Paris will put on a smile on anyone's face.
Under the worst of circumstances -- when the gods above fail to smile down
on your dream trip -- I can now unhesitatingly assure you --
Paris will paint a grin back on your face -- welts and all!

But enough about my boo-boos.
Let's talk Paris.
What is it about Paris that makes us never call it quits come
rain, shine, empty wallet or broken noses?

Admittedly, at home, we may have just thrown in the towel and called it a day.
But Paris never fails to inspire, allowing us to pick ourselves back up and start fresh, picking up steam as we go, doggedly insisting that lady luck is back on our side
no matter what -- weather, politics, ego, two left feet be damned!

So here's just a preview of how I "convalesced" during my dramatic episode in Paris.

Every girl deserves a bouquet or two when she's not feeling her prettiest.
And you just can't beat the arrangements at Marché President Wilson.
A true gem of the 16th arrondissement, it's the place to make fresh start!

Close your eyes and smell the roses.

And don't forget the chocolate.
Or in particularly dire circumstances, choose chocolate AND salted-butter caramels.
We "tested" a few -- then a few more -- for medicinal purposes of course....
Henri Le Roux is The Man in Paris for such sweet-salty cure-alls; after all,
the Breton native is given credit for inventing the Caramel au Beurre Salé.

This is the store on the wonderful and truly unforgettable rue des Martyrs.
Luckily for us, there are multiple outlets in the city so you can never
roam too far from their remarkable and restorative "medication".

To make sure Madame Fortune was back in our corner , we made a pivotal stop
at the foot (literally) of Michel de Montaigne, 16th century French philosopher. Students in the Latin Quarter rely on the trick of rubbing his left foot
for good luck during exams.

I rely solely on scientific data like this when in recovery.
Just ask any student at La Sorbonne....

And just in case good luck isn't enough, I'd recommend getting your palm read
at the Museé des Arts Forain, one of the most magical outposts in the city.

I can't wait to tell you more about our magical afternoon spent here.
New blog to follow soon.

Prayer always helps you feel warm and safe in any city.
Luckily for us, in Paris, you can turn a corner of practically any street
to find a wonderful refuge -- and we discovered many new houses of worship.

Remembering to say a private little thank you at the church of Saint-Médard
was a must-do, particularly grateful for the chance to return to wonderful
rue Mouffetard in the 5th after a few years of missing its lively village-like
atmosphere where fat chickens roast and old men still wink at you.

Now unofficially the emblem for remembrance of Princess Diana's untimely death, the Flame of Liberty is a fine place to remember those less fortunate than yourself.

It's a good reminder that Paris is not a place to throw yourself a Pity Party.
Celebrate life!

Speaking of celebrating life, the cheese plate at Astier in the 11th
would likely heal all the world's woes.

Have no mercy -- Eat every lovely last bite!

Café Pouchkine in the 6th (other locations too) offers Russian-influenced
French pastries in an otherworldly atmosphere.

I think even General Napoleon could have been swayed
to lay down his arms for this particular Russian.

A fully loaded bar ably run by nice people can help stem a few aches and pains.

Viva la France!
Slowly building red blood cells....
More cognac, please!

Basque. Lamb. Chops.
Grateful to be alive at Dans les Landes on rue Monge in the 5th.

Any more words are superfluous.

Snarfing a few bites of my sister's pumpkin soup is like finding love in a bowl.

Genius Chef Christian Etchebest's Cantine du Troquet in the 14th
offers a step up from grandma's cooking.
When I win the lottery, I will return every week for Sunday lunch.
That's a promise.

Wine will stop the whine every time.
FRENCH WINE IS GOOD TO THE LAST DROP.

Stopping to inhale the beauty of fall in Luxembourg Gardens
beats hours of upkeep at the local beauty parlor.
Nature's bounty is a natural remedy, reminding us that
our own beauty/ego is nothing more than skin deep.

"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself."
President Franklin D. Roosevelt

Face-to-face in the courtyard of the University of Medicine, I stared down
The Statue of Death.
Unafraid, I felt more alive than ever.

Time Well Spent means veering off the beaten path to discover
beautiful residential streets of Paris.

From the gorgeous streets surrounding Square de Montsouris,
Square des Peupliers and Cité des Fleurs,
we oohed and aahed our way through neighborhoods
that made us long to lose ourselves in the fantasy of local life.

Though my unhappy nose may never look the same,
my nose for Paris local life has never been stronger.

No wonder doctors make house-calls in Paris.
If I could walk through this door, I might be tempted to get my medical license.

If the cheese, the chocolate, the wine, the flowers, and the lamb chops
aren't making you feel better by now, try the
I Love You Wall in Montmartre -- where you will be reminded
of the love in some 250 languages.

"It's midnight. One half of Paris is making love to the other half."
dialogue from the 1939 film "Ninotchka"

Several stops at the pharmacy for the always amazing properties of
French plant-based creams and potions aided my afflicted face as
well as my bruised ego.

Torment, agony, embarrassment are now gone with the wind -- ably
assisted by expert Paris pharmacists and powerful antioxidants.
Prescription Paris is the only medicine I need.

Just in case you think I was terribly unlucky to have an accident in Paris,
here's the final proof you're wrong.

As if dining at the wonderful Le Bon Georges in the lovely 9th arrondissement
isn't proof enough of good fortune, guess who sat at the table next to us?
Oui, that's actor/comedian/writer extraordinaire Robert Wuhl who kindly kept us enthralled and entertained as we feasted on tiny fresh girolles, cooked-to-perfection beef, and homemade rice pudding.
Robert was in town to celebrate his birthday and agreed that
Le Bon Georges is one unforgettable slice of Paris.
Poor guy was stuck on the meatloaf side of my battered face,
but couldn't have been kinder.
The inestimable power of making a new friend in Paris certifies
this life is as good as it gets.

Lucky Lucky Me!
I'm ready to fall for Paris any day of the week.
You can cast that thought in bronze.

11 Comments

<<Previous

Lost in Space

Love is Here to Stay

Angels in Paris - Chapelle Expiatoire

Montmartre's Sleeping Beauty

Paris Untamed: Call of the Wild

A Pedestrian in Paris

A Traveler's Creed

Homegrown Pleasures in Paris

Chasing Rainbows in Paris

Falling for Paris

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
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AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!