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Chateau de Foix: On Top of the World

11/23/2019

2 Comments

 
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Every now and then, you wake up knowing it's not going to be an average day. 
That's exactly how I felt one bright autumn morning as I opened my eyes
and realized this was the day we were going to Foix.

I had long dreamed of seeing the history-heavy town that is situated
between Toulouse and Andorra at the threshold to the Pyrenees.
Known as an eye-popping milepost in the footprint of southwestern France,
Foix is a straightforward train ride from the charming city of Toulouse. 

 Chateau de Foix sits on top of the world -- or at least
that was my first impression as I finally reach its apex.
Fresh mountain air, a strong whiff of the dramatic, and a stunning eyeful
of gorgeous Ariège countryside make the uphill walk worth the effort.
​You'll feel the electricity as soon as you enter the town, its dramatic
three-towered chateau posing majestically on a tall hill.
  Though the city itself has many charms, few will pause to nose around 
until after they've trudged uphill to the castle that dominates the skyline. 

"Hike More. Worry Less."
​Bumper Sticker

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 I've long been a fiend for castles but there was another reason
for this eagerness to experience Chateau de Foix.
It all boils down to a long fascination with Cathar history.
In case you're not familiar with the Cathars, here's a snapshot summary.

Many villages and cities in France's southwest were strongholds
 of the medieval Christian sect -- Foix, Albi and nearby Carcassonne included.
Long regarded as heretics by the Catholic Church, Cathars -- sometimes
 known as Albigensians* -- thrived in the territory then known as the Languedoc.
Rome, with help from the nobility of northern France, launched a
vicious crusade against all true believers of the sect,
killing many thousands over a twenty year period.
The Church pursued a complete genocide, wiping out whole cities such as
Béziers and burning at the stake as many followers as they could capture.
*name taken from Albi, the seat of Cathar power -- see previous posts:
all-powerful-albi.html and a-cab-ride-to-remember.html
and 

Pope Innocent III was determined to wipe out all those who ran wayward
of the Catholic Church, backing relentless super-villains such as
Simon de Montfort -- so bad he may have upstaged The Joker, Darth Vader
​ and Hannibal Lector a few centuries later
-- who brutally beat back the Cathars.
Though they were Christians, the Cathar community
was branded enemy #1 of the Catholic Church.

The Cathars were unorthodox in many of their beliefs.
But they sincerely trusted their own tenets to be pure in thought
 and more in keeping with Christ's word than the prevailing Catholic clergy.
It was a liberal philosophy -- some would even say intellectual -- as many in the
sect viewed men and women as equals -- a scandalous conviction at the time.
Contraception was allowed; reincarnation was accepted thought and, most importantly, Cathars believed everyone had the right to read the Bible --  which,
against the laws of the land, they labored to translate into the local language.
Questioning the moral character of priests, they soon found themselves
tortured and maimed, relieved of all lands and possessions.

  Still later, the Albigensian Crusade turned into the Inquisition which in the end, helped unite northern and southern France into one (somewhat) cohesive unit.
But what a hair raising period in the history of France!

"Every war results from the struggle for markets and spheres of influence,
and every war is sold to the public by professional liars and
totally sincere religious maniacs, as a Holy Crusade to
save God and Goodness from Satan and Evil."
Robert Anton Wilson, American author, agnostic mystic 
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Terracotta rooftops give way to the gorgeous base of the Pyrenees in the near distance.
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Upon reaching the summit, we gobbled up the incredible views of our surroundings, peering down on the town created by the chateau's noble residents. 
Due in large part to the rugged setting and the considerable efforts of the
chateau's conservationists and curators, we felt a connection to world history.
 
The castle's earliest foundation, first built in the 10th century,
became the site for the long-lasting chateau fortress which
 withstood scores of attack under the careful watch of the Counts of Foix. 
Much later, from the 16th century until 1864, the chateau served France
as a prison; Look for graffiti in some of the tower chambers.

The site recreates medieval life in the time when the Counts rules the land. 
During the middle ages, France as we currently know it was not united.
The royalty that ruled the north had less influence than the local noblemen.  

A long line of counts ruled Foix during both good times and bad.
  The fortress withstood attack by Simon Montfort from 1211 to 1217
but was retaken by Catholics three centuries later when Henry of Navarre
become King Henry IV (commonly referred to as Good King Henry)
and united France as one with a strategic plan.
The Protestant leader converted to Roman Catholicism while
concurrently offering religious freedom to Protestants,
cleverly building bridges of religious tolerance on both ends of his country.

​"Hell is empty All the devils are here."

William Shakespeare, writer, from "The Tempest"
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Word of the Day - trebuchet - a catapult used to hurl massive stones at the enemy. Need one of these at home....
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There are many more stairs to climb even after the long climb to the chateau.
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Extraordinary graffiti etched in stone -- Wish I had a translator.... Kilroy was here??
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There is much to admire in this chateau which it makes it doubly staggering to 
realize what we see today is only about one quarter of the original complex.
Still, Chateau de Foix is 100% satisfying, first as you 
 embrace the view and the towers and again as you discover
   some of the "living history" experiences offered on site.
  Blacksmiths and stonecutters offer a look at life
in the French countryside during the Middle Ages.

Visitors can even walk the wheel -- a daredevil physical workout that
 worked as a bona-fide apparatus in chateau projects and construction.
Talk about hard labor!

You'll discover lessons on how to make war -- from shooting a bow & arrow to
 examining the nuts and bolts of war machines -- a highlight for many military fans.
Personally, I'd prefer to ponder what these clever people
​ grew in their medieval gardens....

What I never did figure out is -- what footwear conquered these cobblestones??

"Always in all circumstances, wear comfortable shoes.
​ You never know when you may have to run for your life."

​Callie Khouri, film & tv writer - most famous for "Thelma & Louise" and "Nashville"
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Double-dog-dare: Walk the wheel, the medieval way to build a castle.
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Depression hurts -- It seems times were tough inside the castle.
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Plan to climb a lot of steps.
  We climbed hundreds of them -- up, up, up two of the towers
where we were treated to a rewarding look at life in medieval Foix.

  Look for the graffiti etched into the stone walls -- no doubt from
the period when the chateau served as a prison.
There are reimagined rooms in both towers that display the basic functionality
of each chamber -- be it bedroom, war room or reading room and if you
have even the slightest bit of imagination, you'll be able to conjure up
a picture of life during the time of the Counts when troubadours and poets
​ made life a little more bearable.
 
The spiral staircase leading to each room is very narrow so be aware you may  encounter someone coming from another direction -- which can get quite twitchy.
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This rock solid door would keep Attila the Hun out in the rain.
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The museum on site ties everything together.
  Clever interactive displays keep the pace interesting and fun even for those
who aren't overly interested in family trees or miniature castle displays. 

Carefully recreating life at Foix during the time of the Counts, the museum
offers an absorbing look at history and serves as a good reminder that life
in a castle isn't all about fairytales princesses and happily ever after. 
There were many frogs to kiss over the centuries.....
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Talk about a family tree! All the Rogers and Gastons you could ever imagine....
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Museum exhibits help visitors imagine how ordinary citizens coped in medieval Foix.
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A day in the life -- slaughtering animals and feeding the village.
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A clever play on words -- a seller of foie (as in foie gras) in the town of Foix (same pronunciation)...
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A peaceful slice of Foix on the way up to the chateau.
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Every proper town in France has a proper church and Foix is no exception.
  The Church of Saint-Volusien will not disappoint.

  In the center of the old town, its ancient bones have been partially restored,
memorably featuring some imaginatively carved choir seats.
  Biblical paintings, faded paint, and a restored organ
(dating from 1869) complete the picture.
​
  A portion of the medieval abbey still exists; it was the original site
constructed for Charlemagne in the 10th century(!) though most
of what you see today was rebuilt in 1670.
The arched windows and quietly elegant vaulted ceiling
are particularly beautiful.
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Incredible carvings line the monk's seating in the Church of Saint-Volusien.
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I adore this part of France with its big sky and endless views,
  a history as big as the wide blue yonder, in a countryside wild and unspoiled.
  Big on tradition and outdoor activities, the Ariège -- and
Occitanie as a whole
-- is priceless.

Nestled in the Midi-Pyrenees, this is an area that is too often neglected
​ by travelers which is a lovely crowd-free bonus for those of us in the know.

Feeling on top of the world is a sentiment that makes us feel alive.
My all time favorite poem from childhood sums up
that special impression of freedom and childhood magic:

"How do you like to go up in a swing,
Up in the air so blue?
Oh, I do think it the pleasantest thing
Ever a child can do!

Up in the air and over the wall,
Till I can see so wide
River and trees and cattle and all
Over the countryside...
Till I look down on the garden green
Down on the roof so brown --
Up in the air I go flying again
​Up in the air and down!"

"The Swing" by Robert Louis Stevenson

I'm pretty confident Edith Piaf wasn't speaking of Chateau de Foix or even
climbing a mountain, but her message serves as a good reminder:
"When you reach the top, you should remember
to send the elevator down for others."
​
I urge you, climb up those narrow winding streets to the castle on the hill
and when you return home, share your delightful experience with others.
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2 Comments

A Cab Ride to Remember

9/25/2015

0 Comments

 
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It started out innocently enough -- a cab ride with Jack Black.
  No, not THAT Jack Black -- amazingly, our driver was the spitting image
of the multi-faceted American actor/singer/comedian.
That happy coincidence should have foretold that this day would be
anything but ordinary for truly providence was shining down on us.

We were on a Canal du Midi adventure, piloting our own boat down a
beautiful stretch of the famous 17th century canal and as much as
we took great pleasure in the leisurely float, we landlubbers were
ready to get off the water and head for terra firma. 
We set off from Homps for the 10 mile taxi ride to Minerve,
a tiny but well-known Languedoc village that's always described
as "impenetrable" and "mysterious".

As he drove, our cabbie chatted with regional pride,
effusively gushing about the magic of la Montagne Noire,
surely "the most beautiful place in all of France".
He was poetic in his description of the Minervois wines and
cuisine, a guy clearly happy in both life and work.
Informative, eloquent, cheerful, his running commentary
offered assurance that we had, indeed, chosen the right place to visit.

Arriving at our destination, "Jack" refused to take our money,
promising to return late that afternoon for the ride back to the canal. 
I don't think it was the round-trip fare he was interested in, preferring
an airtight lock that required us to stay and give the village a proper tour.
 His "baby", his pride and joy, deserved a good long look --
and it didn't take long to prove him right.

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Minerve isn't listed on the esteemed Les Plus Beaux Villages de France for nothing.  It is strikingly beautiful, a mystical village, fortified and perched on a
picturesque canyon in the middle of the wild Languedoc landscape.
You get a sweeping view of the town from the lovely bridge, its stone houses
and unforgettable authenticity easy to absorb in just a few hours.
  But stay longer, for you'll want more.

This is a town that's much more than just one more ruined medieval castle
(yes, there is one) and a few museums (yes, there are two).
It's your chance to walk through a stone built village,
deliberately letting time come to a standstill.
As you pause to admire local houses and uneven cobblestone paths,
you'll be grateful for the unspoiled atmosphere -- trees,
wildflowers and local character all in abundance.

Friends from Paris had recommended Restaurant Relais Chantovent,
raving about the regional menu and inviting welcome -- truffles included.
  In one of my less stellar moments as a trip planner, I mistakenly assumed
we could get seated for lunch without a reservation -- after all,
Minerve's location is far from the more cut-and-dried tourist trail.
  I was overwhelmingly wrong and we missed our chance.
Dumb, dumber, dumbest -- lesson learned.
  Nevertheless, we found a good restaurant, simple and market driven.
We indulged in a few local favorites including the treasured
jambon de la montagne noire and onion confit -- delightful.
 
But all this heart-stirring tranquility is a bit ironic if you consider
Minerve's overwhelmingly violent past.

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Behind these beautiful walls is a town bearing the legacy
of grim bloodshed and savagery.
  Magical, mysterious Minerve was once home to one of the bloodiest battles
of the Albigensian Crusade, the horrendous military war against the Cathars,
a small reformed Christian sect doomed thanks to the shenanigans of
Pope Innocent III and the ruling french crown and local nobility.

The precursor of The Inquisition,
this mind-boggling struggle occurred on several fronts in lovely Languedoc,
with a particularly crushing massacre in nearby Béziers.
  In 1210, a group of Cathars who escaped sure death in Béziers, sought
refuge in welcoming Minerve, where they were treated with kindness and respect.
Simon de Montfort (the elder), 5th earl of Leicester,unleashed his wrath
on the tiny village and the Minervois held out for six long weeks.
  After an agonizing hard-fought surrender, they capitulated,
assured at least of saving their own women and children.
The villainous de Montfort didn't waste any time, promising to
kill those who would not recant their Cathar faith.
  In the name of both the Pope and the crown, he chillingly
ordered the death of 140 Cathars, tied and burned at the stake. 
Today we would call it jihad or holy war but there was nothing holy in this slaughter.  More than anything, it was a land grab and a power struggle and here
in tiny Minerve, you can still find the ghosts of that awful carnage.
  A memorial to that day is quite haunting -- a standing stone
with a single dove carved into its core.

Even better, make your way to the Musée Hurepel, a small museum
that visually illuminates the shocking story of the Cathar tragedy.
Through dioramas made with little clay figurines -- knights, villagers,
and villains alike -- the siege of Minerve comes to life.
We bear witness to the perverse iniquity of The Strong
imposing their faith on The Weak -- by force.
  The entire sick story is told -- and it isn't pretty.
Nearly impossible to imagine, the plot is ugly -- crusaders gauging out the eyes
of those who wouldn't conform -- then sending their blinded victims into
the wilds of the mountains alone and unaided, a cruelty worse than death.

After a visit to the museum, you'll be ready for a nice carafe of Minervois wine,
  relieved that the only struggle in this land today comes from the vines'
tortuous efforts to bear luscious fruit from the rugged, stony landscape.
  Drink up and celebrate freedom of religion -- all religions --
and the modern separation of church and state.
In 1210, little Minerve would have been happy for even a smidgen
of the liberty and tolerance we enjoy today.
I think we can all say amen to that.


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France forever offers the visitor endless beauty, history and sparkle. 
Some of the best experiences can be found in the secret corners
of Languedoc-Roussillon, especially if you search beyond the tourist trail. 

For my money, little Minerve is an unforgettable example of the best of the best.
I hope you, too, get the chance one day to discover the complex nature
of this quiet yet emotionally intoxicating corner of enchanting rural France.

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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