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Salvadore Dali's Walk on the Wild Side

9/12/2020

1 Comment

 
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During this never-to-be-forgotten moment in time it feels like we're
living in a surrealistic world, a quarantine-induced theme park
of dreams, hallucinations and unsettled fears.

None of us can wait for the day we'll be able to relegate
this upside down world to the rear view mirror.

Now looking back, my visit to the Salvador Dali Museum in Paris last fall
was perhaps a premonition of things to come, his melting clocks and
fantastical sculptures not quite as absurd as I previously thought. 

The museum, Espace Dali, packs a punch.
  Whether you like him or you're otherwise inclined and tend to
 avoid this brand of modern art, the museum is worth a visit.
Smack in the middle of Montmartre, the small space fills every nook
with the surreal, a dreamscape of wild imagination that made me feel as
if I was live streaming directly from the artist's unhinged subconscious. 

One thing is certain, Dali's art is not demure.
He delivers the goods -- in all caps and exclamation points. 
The disorienting artist spent a lifetime
expressing his dreams and fantasies.
He produced a massive 
collection of paintings and sculpture --
even furniture -- that exposed his far-flung imagination.

From pornographic sketches that are both amazing and provocative
(don't worry, you won't seem them here) to a living-room setting brandishing
  a sofa with all the hallmarks of Mae West's lips, a visit to
  this museum is an unforgettable brush with talent and weirdness.

​
"I am not strange. I am just not normal"
Salvador Dali
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Dali's abstract Michelin model mimics Michelangelo's famous Slaves sculpture reimagined in an auto assembly plant.
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Dali was obsessed with Alice in Wonderland whose mind adventures were as strange as his own.
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Salvadore Dali, born in Figueres Spain, began art studies at the age of ten
and soon fell in love with the masters; Goya and Rembrandt were favorites.

Eventually expelled from art school*, he found his way to Paris
where he became friends with many of his idols.
  Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro introduced Dali
to the godfather of surrealism, writer/poet André Breton.
This audaciously creative group of artists and intellectuals throbbed
with a kinetic energy, focusing on endless debate that centered
on the subconscious, psychoanalysis and sexual repression.
Together they pushed one another to create an artistic rainbow
  that linked the dream-world with their own reality.

*He refused to sit for final exams since, in his view, he was more intelligent than his professors

Regrettably, some of Dali's more biased visions didn't sit well
with many of his most talented friends.

Though immensely gifted and focused on promoting their emerging
surrealistic movement, Dali became an outlier
as soon as his
 political leanings became known.
The avant-garde artist, so hip and progressive on the outside,
held a morbid fascination with authoritarians like Spain's Francisco Franco.
   Most of his compadres leaned left but Dali's far right
political mindset isolated him from the rest of the group.

His sick obsession with Hitler* quickly led
to the end of many friendships.
*Dali's painting, "The Enigma of Hitler" was not one of his better loved works

While he enjoyed dallying with the diabolical and depraved,
he also knew the value of being popular and admired. 
The feud both emboldened
 and bothered him for the remainder of his life.


"Let my enemies devour one another."
​Salvadore Dali 
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So while I'd consider wearing a baguette on my head, I'd be wary of ants crawling up my forehead...
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Dali tribute to Mae West's pout. As she once said, "When I'm good, I'm very very good. But when I'm bad, I'm better."
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There have been countless arguments over the meaning of Dali's woman with drawers.
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Dali was notorious for hoofing it all around Paris with his pet ocelot Babou.
​ The fashionable artist would sometimes change his "look" by
switching to yet another exotic mammal -- an anteater.  Um, sure....
  Thinking I could never relate to such a free spirit*, when I eventually
discovered his famous melting clock was inspired by a block of Camembert
melting in the sun, I could see it was possible we could be simpatico -- at
least 
when it comes to dreaming about French cheese.....
*ok, what I really mean is nut-job.
​
Espace Dali shows off the artist's lighter side, iconic mustache
and carefully curated far-flung imagination.
  It's pretty jaw-dropping to realize he could paint like the masters
but chose to fall off the mountain of "normal" to create a category
of art that demanded four-alarm fire attention.


  Salvadore Dali's ambitions were sky-high.
As he stated so bluntly, "At the age of six, I wanted to be a cook.
At seven, I wanted to be Napoleon and my ambition has been growing ever since."
​

He would go to great lengths to satisfy his artistic and commercial appetites.
And it worked.
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Dali's passion for fashion shows up in this red shoe sculpture.
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Is Woman Inflamed on fire or is she burning with passion? You decide.
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The artist's life included a strange but long-lasting love for wife Gala.
Their unconventional marriage added to the legend of Dali.
Gala Dali operated as both wife and chief promoter.

 She facilitated many of his shows, exhibiting extraordinary business
acumen
 while maintaining a passionate interest in surrealism. 

Gala, Russian-born in 1884 -- was first married
 to famous French poet Paul Eluard. 
Gala's first affair (pre-Dali) -- rumored to have been a menage-a-trois between
her, first husband Eluard and French surrealist Max Ernst, disclosed the type
of behavior that would soon be commonplace in her second marriage.


 Gala threw Eluard over when she met Dali and eventually they married.
  It was a strange union. 
Twenty years his senior, it was a way-out love match to say the least.

 She continued to enjoy many affairs yet Dali steadfastly remained
head-over-heels
 in love with his lusty wife/manager. 

 Without question, she cared and motivated her husband's artistic genius.
 Yet at the same time, she spent his money as fast as he could
make it -- usually
 on young lovers who were half her age.
On the eve of her death, Gala was 84-years-old and involved
with
 a 22-year-old Broadway* star.
*Jeff Fenholt of "Jesus Christ Superstar fame

 
When Gala died, Dali placed two tombs side-by-side with a tiny space
 in the middle so they could hold hands for all eternity.

"I love her more than my mother, more than my father,

 more than Picasso, more than money."
Salvadore Dali speaking of his wife Gala
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The museum claims this sculpture represents the holy Trinity. You say potato; I say potahto....
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Setting the table, surrealist style
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Salvador Dali experienced life larger and bolder than most.
  He was resolutely committed to his craft,
living and producing from inside his subconscious.

What an interesting place that must have been.

Genius or clown?
That's for you to decide.
His art is indescribable; I won't even try. 
The next time you're in Paris, I hope you'll give this museum a look.
  Paris unfailingly unlocks our imagination; Espace Dali may
take that insight one step further.  

​
"While we are asleep in this world, we are awake in another one."
Salvador Dali

Perhaps that explains the cockeyed inside-out world we're living in today....
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Wine-Tastic Montmartre

10/30/2019

1 Comment

 
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I love drinking wine in France.
  No, I'm not talking about the chichi, big-ticket stuff -- just an every 
day simple glass (or two) of rouge, blanc or rosé. 
You see, in France, drinking wine is effortless.
  There's no need to immerse yourself in a wine education or consult
a sommelier to get a glass of grape that makes you smile.

That's why, overjoyed to be in Paris during a significant week in October, my
 wine joie-de-vivre took on new meaning in an emotionally charged setting.
Smack dab on the celebrated hills of Montmartre, where cobbled streets and
unmatched views are out-of-the-ordinary just about any time of the year,
the village with the vines struts its stuff like nobody's business.
 
For five days in October, this stretch of Paris makes merry -- and,
this being France, the results are delicious. 
Montmartre's Harvest Festival -- la Fête de Vendanges -- is an
​ unforgettable celebration of history, wine culture & local pride
wrapped around France's fruity cultural icon.
  Since 1934, Parisians and wine lovers around the globe have memorialized the
first harvest from a tiny plot of land in Montmartre with a no-holds-barred
street party that nurtures our shared love for wine.
​
"Wine is sunlight held together by water."
Galileo, the "father" of modern science 
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It's easy to miss Montmartre's tiny vineyard.
Look for it on the hilly rue de Saules, just down the street from La Maison Rose,
the iconic rose colored café that's too cute to pass up without a photo op.

No one has ever claimed the wine cultivated here is extraordinary.
The story is simple.
It's beloved because it's produced here, a testament to Paris past,
a throwback to long ago when the Romans planted the vines which
were later nursed by monks from a nearby Benedictine abbey.
  The vineyard is protected from property developers, helping to keep a village-like 
ambience in Montmartre --  charmingly unsophisticated and hopelessly romantic.  
These days, the orchard is run by the city which donates
  all proceeds (from about 1500 bottles a year) to charity. 

The Fête de Vendanges is a combination wine, food, and arts festival
capped off by a parade that is in equal parts serious and zany.  
​
"Too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right."
F. Scott Fitzgerald, American author 
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The parade is huge, offering something for everyone.
Wine dignitaries share the streets with marching bands and 25-foot-tall giants.
  Even the local gendarmes were caught smiling at the entertainment,
though I'm sure trying to police thousands of people
standing on a small hill is no small matter.

For someone who hates crowds (that means me),
I definitely found it a worthwhile place to "hang" with the locals.
  When you get to interact with folks in costume -- the Bretons in particular were
entrancing -- you soon forget you're being jostled & tugged by too many people.
 
  Community schools, restaurants and regional winemakers entertain,
the festivities going well beyond the parade.
  In the 86th version of this annual festival, Montmartre delivered five days of 
hoopla with an expected visitor count of around 500,000.

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Celebrating the Harvest Festival -- the wine harvest -- with smiles and cheers.
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I don't think anyone was looking at her headdress.
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As they say, "The higher the hair, the closer to God...."
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It's likely you already realize whatever the reason
you come to Montmartre, you're likely to have a big time.
But the harvest festival makes a visit something exceptional.
  Even Montmartre's never-ending but iconic stairs
were made extra special for the event.
Local school children painted them keeping with a "chromatic climb" theme.

  Event organizers offered a myriad of activities -- including a
fashion show with a catwalk for those who love
 to strut their stuff in outrageous and daring dress,
followed by a fluorescent race at night.
  Oh what a party that must be....

"I love a parade, the tramping of feet,
I love every beat I hear of a drum.
I love a parade, when I hear a band
I just want to stand and cheer as they come."
"I Love a Parade"

Harry Richman, composer 
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In France, wherever there is wine, there is food.
  French tradition honors a serious sense of place so if the "terroir"
for wine is considered sacred, so too is the God given harvest that feeds us.
 
The art of food and wine at the  Fête de Vendanges does not disappoint. 
Growing up in the Midwest, I'm used to "Fair Food" -- fun and festive,
we were happy with a good corndog or pork chop sandwich and
a caramel apple or funnel cake on the side....
Nope, not here.

First of all, notice they serve champagne in REAL CHAMPAGNE GLASSES.
  Not plastic, not paper, the real deal.  
They had me at bonjour.
And the price was aces.
  Instead of marking up the food, I swear, they offered
everything at bargain basement prices.
Did I already mention entry to the event is free?? 
Paris always makes me feel like I have won the lottery; in this case,
I feel like I won the Mega Millions.

It was Julia Child who reminded us
"In France, cooking is a serious art form and a national sport."
  Of course, she also said,
"The best way to execute French cooking is to get good and loaded
and whack the hell out of a chicken."
Perhaps America's favorite master of French cooking
knew her way around the Fête de Vendanges....
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Fromage chaud -- aka HOT CHEESE! Pinch me, I must be dreaming.....
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A reminder this is what the hoopla is all about - a tiny grapevine for sale by event organizers.
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The Church of Sacre Coeur is appropriately the backdrop for a heavenly vintage from the Burgundy region.
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My pre-parade culinary adventure began with a plate of raw oysters.
​  The farmer who harvested them grinned from ear to ear
as I slurped and appreciated every last one.
  He rushed the briny treasures to the festival  -- all the way from the
Ile d'Oléron, an island just off the west coast of France near La Rochelle.

Though mightily tempted by fromage chaud (hot cheese!),
I wisely chose a plate of steaming hot vegetables mixed with Corsican sausage.  There are not enough adjectives and exclamation points
to describe how happy this made me.
  It's a memory I'll forever cherish.

And of course, we paired everything with wine of the region.
 
"Wine makes every meal an occasion,
​ every table more elegant, every day more civilized."
​Andre Simon, French born wine merchant, writer, connoisseur   
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Truffade - a classic from the Auverne - potatoes, cheese, garlic.... Aligot - a gooey potato & cheese mash from the Aveyron. OMG.
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It's human nature to share a love of celebration -- to come together,
elbow our way around and embrace the community.

A festival offers an opportunity to get away
from the urban sprawl and let our hair down.
Just about any day of the week, Montmartre has the kind of magic that
makes us feel the sun shine down on our face even when it's raining.
Festival time is even more irresistible,
a chance to have our very own Ferris Bueller moment.

  The Fête de Vendanges is not the place you come to show off your
 new Christian Louboutin heels; it's where you wear your favorite old shirt so
 you can get a grease spot on it from the yummy tartiflette you practically inhaled.

  It's one part church revival, one part double rainbow.
This may be the exact moment you realize you're no longer dreaming Paris.
You are living it.
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1 Comment

Montmartre's Sleeping Beauty

3/21/2019

4 Comments

 
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Sexy, brash, unrestrained.... the very reason we race 
to visit and re-visit fun-loving Montmartre.
Frantic and a bit sinful -- how can we help but love it.
  But as in most love stories, too much of a good thing can be exhausting.

  So on your next sojourn to the party side of town, veer a bit off the
beaten path and look for a very special "someone else".
  Discover the more saintly side to mischievous Montmartre.
A real sleeping beauty, Cemetière Saint-Vincent is a peewee parcel of
greenery that offers more love and true-to-life authenticity per square foot
than some of the more famous Paris cemeteries.
 
A beautiful memorial garden, tiny and well kempt, the graveyard's
true claim-to-fame lies in the intimate feel it evokes.
  Seeming to draw a lot of "business" from artistic Montmartre,
many of its residents hailed from the legendary village on the hill.
  With wild-and-wooly Place du Tertre just steps away and 
pretty-in-pink cabaret -- the Lapin Agile -- peeking over its shoulder,
Saint-Vincent Cemetery* offers a history lesson you won't soon forget.
Many of its gifted residents achieved fame as painters, composers,
writers and film makers who once called Paris home.
*Don't confuse this with Montmartre Cemetery, located near the Moulin Rouge.

​If you've always longed for breathing space in rowdy,
jam-packed Montmartre, this is your lucky day.

"An artist has no home in Europe except for Paris."

​Friedrich Nietzsche, philosopher
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After visiting the Musée de Montmartre* the year before, I could hardly wait for
 the chance to pay my respects to one of my favorite local artists, Maurice Utrillo. 
His lifelike canvases of Montmartre speak volumes of his own
experience in this much painted neighborhood.
*if-montmartre-could-talk.html
 
If you enjoy poster art, look for Jules Chéret's gravesite.
  Nicknamed Father of the Modern Poster, Chéret's work has stood
the test of time, his colorful images and lettering providing a glimpse
into the future of art as a modern marketing medium.

Though you may not have heard of the Debray family before,
surely you'll recognize the symbol of their claim to fame.
Long-time millers by trade, they eventually transformed one of their
working windmills into artist magnet Moulin de la Galette.
  You'll find the family vault in the cemetery; the famous restaurant -- the same
​   one made famous by Renoir's inimitable brushstrokes
--  is just a few blocks away. 
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Marcel Carné, French film director, is perhaps best known for the 1945 classic
"Les Enfants du Paradis," hailed as one of the best films of all time.
If you dote on vintage or unconventional cinema and its well-earned 
place as a popular art form, then this one's for you.  

During past visits to Montmartre, you may have already admired 
the famous wall sculpture La Passe-Mureille. 
The spooky image shows up in everyone's favorite photos of the
neighborhood, its man-in-a-jam trying to walk right through the wall.
  This uncanny sculpture was inspired by a short story of the
 same name -- "The Man Who Walked through Walls" written by
Marcel Aymé, a master French storyteller.
In case you're hunting down a sweet children's storybook,
check out Aymé's "The Wonderful Farm" illustrated by
Marice Sendak's "Where the Wild The Wild Things Are".
  Perhaps Sendak was thinking of a wild Montmartre Saturday night
when he dreamed up his infamous wild things...….


Arthur Honegger, a much admired 20th century composer,
is buried in Cemetière Saint-Vincent.
  One of his most famous works - "Pacific 231" -- was inspired by
his fondness for locomotives.
Translating the rush and squeal of engines into deliberate music,
the lauded virtuoso was amazingly successful. 
But I like him best for this ironic quote:
"There is no doubt that the first requirement for a composer is to be dead."
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My favorite little marker in the cemetery -- perfectly fitting for one of the Montmartre locals.
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Can you believe this poster is over 100 years old and still in demand? This cat has more than 9 lives....
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In his day, artist Eugene Boudin was a pretty big deal.
  Beach scenes, windswept harbors, and the brilliant light of the outdoors
made him one of the more memorable originators of "en plein air" painting. 
The landscape painter was an early influence in the work of Monet, his soft,
mood-setting canvases provoking the gifted impressionist
​ and other artists to focus on the great outdoors.
  If you've ever visited the gorgeous port city of Honfleur,
you'll recognize his inspiration.

Long before "Cats" came to the stage, posters of cats became de rigueur. 
Theophile Steinlen's "Tournée du Chat Noir" brought him fame,
with a striking style that never seems to age.
  These days, you'll find copies of this very image on posters
at Walmart and coffee cups from Amazon.  

One of the most unusual gravestone markers (sorry, I forgot to take a photo)
belongs to ceramic artist Nicolas Platon-Argyriades and his wife.
  Peeking through a window in their burial-house, they seem almost playful.
  Or weird.  You choose.
Platon-Argyriades specialized in faïence ceramics, much of his work one-of-a-kind.
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A typical Jules Cheret poster -- colorful, lively, and modern in style.
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As a neighborhood, Montmartre is certainly one of our favorites in Paris.
  It's all about the contrasts -- imaginative and lovable, crowded and a bit kooky,
we wouldn't dream of visiting Paris without a stop on the hill.
We cherish every high-spirited inch of it.

  So if you're going, plan to stay a while.
  And of course you know what that means.
Plan to linger over a long lunch or dinner.

  Just far enough away from the push and shove of the crowd
is a lovely bistro that specializes in chicken. 
Le Coq Rico is a find in the middle of a touristy
​ and sometimes disappointing restaurant scene.
 
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Appetizers really count in Paris -- Don't skip this course!
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It's always a joy to discover a never-before-tasted French specialty. 
It must have been my lucky day; Chicken Vol-au-Vent was on the menu.
It's a mind-blowing puff pastry creation that's true to its name -- light as air.

  From the appetizer -- oeufs a la russe -- to the dessert -- caramel au beurre sale
​ (rice pudding with a salted caramel topping), lunch was divine.
I never did find out why the chicken crossed the road, but I did
 figure out why King Henry IV's manifesto --"un poule au pot le Dimanche" --
 put a chicken in every pot every Sunday -- was such a fine idea.
 
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When you visit a cemetery, life feels just
a little more precious than it did the day before.
  The peace and quiet helps clear your mind; the sun seems
to shine brighter; the flowers seem a bit more colorful.
  And to top it off, you get to "meet" really great people such as
cemetery angels like local artist Georges Rose whose simple and
on-point marker gave me goosebumps.

  These spirits of Montmartre lightened my mood and made me think. 
It's not just time to seize the day;
it's time to rocket launch our life span on earth and seize EVERY day.

Hope you've enjoyed this little tour of the diminutive Cemetière de Saint-Vincent. 
I look forward to seeing you there one day. 
Above ground....of course.
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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