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Pinching Pennies in Paris

7/28/2015

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Everyone should see Paris at least once in their lifetime.
  For many of us, on paper at least, the world's cultural palace on the Seine
looks pretty unattainable from the standpoint of our bank account. 
True, it's an expensive endeavor, far from home
  and too many extravagant amusements to count.
Unfortunately, for some, this makes a trip nothing more than a pipe dream, particularly those who perceive Paris as a once-in-a-lifetime blow-out.

But look beyond.
  If you can figure out how to pay for the flight and some decent digs,
there's a whole lot you can see and do in this fairy tale city of wine & roses.
I'm not just referring to free museum tickets the first Sunday of every month
or hanging out at a café all day with the proverbial cup of coffee/glass of wine.
  The most glamorous city in the world offers ample opportunity for those
with limited means to enjoy and experience a whole host of Parisian delights.

Think about it. 
Not all Parisians are rich --- and yet you'll find plenty of
self-fulfilled working folk who know how to extract the best
from the city many assume is out of bounds on the affordability scale.

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Paris food markets provide hours of entertainment on the cheap.
  The Bastille market, shown here on a lovely Sunday in June, is always jumping.  From fish to flowers to frisée, this market oozes the best that France has to offer.

  Quality is in abundance and you'll be amazed at the prices.
  You see, in Paris, this gorgeous stockpile costs less
than what you'll find at the grocery store.
  At home, I often find it to be the opposite.
It's a festive atmosphere where folks from every part of the city
make their way to their favorite market stall.
  It's easy to pick out the favorites, whether it's a long line for a fresh croissant
or an ample serving of steaming paella -- everything is fresh and in-season.

A marché is a great place to pick up a few inspired gifts for friends at home, too.  Pretty scarves, soaps from Provence, and luscious caramels from
Brittany are all on hand to satisfy your diverse wish list. 
And while you're there, go ahead and order lunch.
You can't beat the color, aroma and quality of the fun food
 begging to be tasted -- at prices you can easily swallow.

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Parks, gardens, green spaces and playgrounds dot the city.
Make your way to Luxembourg Gardens.
Whether you choose to relax with the latest bestseller or prefer to admire
the pony parade, this blooming field of dreams has something for everyone.
And if that doesn't sound exciting enough for you,
check out the sci-fi-chic beekeepers or join the mommy march at the carousel.

Or cross the river and take a walk with the Mayor of Paris. 
This once private garden at city hall (Hotel de Ville) has recently opened to the public.
  The roses alone are worth the effort.

In Paris, there's a different park for every day of the week -- for weeks on end.
  Make the effort to seek out some of the less touristy ones, too,
so you can see how real Parisians spend their leisure time.

Just a few to consider:
  Parc Montsouris - old-fashioned & romantic - weeping willows & swans.
Parc de la Villette - young, hip & relatable -  soccer games and a dragon slide.
Jardins des Plantes - brainy & cultivated - botanical gardens & botany students.

  You will never regret one step in these magically diverse settings.

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Window shopping may not sound like a penny-pinching pursuit
but once you get into the groove, it's a thrifty distraction
that can provide hours of pleasure without opening your wallet.
Think of the wasted hours you've spent at home idly
staring at Amazon and Etsy on your PC.
Those electronic gotchas don't hold a candle to the
ingenious window displays in playful Paris.

  Whether it's high fashion, classic, droll or low kitsch, the city that invented
style has it all -- and even if you can't afford to buy it, you can
drink in the pleasure of its originality.
Think of it as boutique art, akin to spending an hour of two
perusing your favorite gallery.

Whether you're turned on by Cartier, Deyrolle or Tati,
Paris window art will satisfy your imaginative side.

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Paris is chock full of free museums, surely the best bargain in all of Paris.
There's no trick, no sticker shock in the promotion of French culture.

The amazing Musée Carnavalet is worth the price of your plane fare.
  This can't-miss museum tells the story of Paris with a vast array of paintings, sculpture, furniture, street & shop signs, maps, letters, costumes,
jewelry, geological artifacts.... whew, you need to come back
a couple of times to take it all in.
  There's something for everyone here.
The stately mansion (actually it's housed in two adjoining Renaissance jewels)
and classic gardens will enthrall even those who are
normally allergic to art and history.
  Paris comes alive at the Carnavalet and remember -- it's free!*

I've encouraged you (in other blogs) to visit a number of duty-free museums.
 Le Petit Palais, Musée Bourdelle and
the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris all come to mind.
  Astonishingly, there are countless more --- which may make
you wonder how and why they do it.
You see, lucky for us, there's nothing more French than sharing and
promoting their own undeniably rich cultural history and identity.

So take full advantage of this generosity.
Discover and enjoy the magnificence & frugality of these cultural treasures.
*often there are temporary exhibits at these museums which have an entrance fee; visits are optional.

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Inexpensive does not mean unexceptional.
  Paris is always easy on the eyes -- but if you look in the right places and do
a little up-front planning, it can be easy on the pocketbook as well.

There's nothing modest about Paris -- it's outright fabulous. 
Filling your day with worthwhile distractions is both frugal and fun.

Often, it's the simplest things that offer the biggest pay-off.
- Study the minute details of Notre Dame's massive arched entrance-ways.
- Find the legendary art nouveau door at 29 avenue Rapp.
- Pay your respects to General Lafayette, a hero of
the American Revolution, at Picpus Cemetery.
- Dance the tango at jardin Tino Rossi.
It's these little gifts to yourself that make lifetime memories
and none of them come with an entrance fee. 
Heart-stopping pleasure on the cheap.

Paris certainly isn't for paupers.
  But trust me, your heart will sing when you figure out how to enjoy Paris for a song.

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THE POOR PEOPLE OF PARIS

Just got back from Paris, France
All they do is sing and dance
All they got there is romance
What a tragedy

Every boulevard has lovers
Every lover's in a trance
The poor people of Paris

I feel sorry for the French
Every guy has got a wench
Every couple's got a bench
Kissing shamelessly

Night and day they're making music
While they're making love in French
The poor people of Paris

Milk or water from a sink
Make a true Parisian shrink
Wine is all he'll ever drink

And it worries me

For with wine as cheap as water
Oh, it makes one stop and think
The poor people of Paris
Sister Madam Pierre
Had the craziest love affair
And the day they parted there
He cried bitterly

Pierre was there to bid her farewell
But he brought his new girl Claire
The poor people of Paris

So don't go to Paris France
Not unless you like to dance
Not unless you want romance
Like those poor inhabitants of Paris

In the meantime, I got to hurry back there
I think I forgot something

Songwriters
MONNOT, MARGUERITE/ROUZAUD, RENE GUSTAVE

Published by
Lyrics © Warner/Chappell Music, Inc.

Read more: Dean Martin - The Poor People Of Paris Lyrics | MetroLyrics
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Sugar-Coated Paris

7/18/2015

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Everyone knows, Paris is crazy delicious all hours of the day.
A lively, mouthwatering city, the Paris food front is delectable if not sinful. 
But admit it, few memories can be more vivid than those of the sugared sort,
be it breakfast, lunch, dinner or in-between.

The choices out there are endless. 
Whether or not you consider yourself a sugar fanatic, your taste buds will
  be tempted by the abundance of special indulgences Paris brings to the table.
French artisans offer honeyed palate pleasers that define both taste and desire.

 Concerns about diet/nutrition?
  I doubt even the most belligerent nutrition-obsessed-
stick-in-the-mud could spoil the mood when presented
with irresistibly named treats like roudoudou and pets-de-nonne*.
And who wouldn't run to a bistro** that offers a
  massive bowl of chocolate mousse, throwing caution to the wind?
*translation: flatulence of nuns
**served at Chez Janou


Dessert in Paris means only one thing:
  EPIC JOY

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One of my favorite stops in Paris is Le Bonbon au Palais
where charming owner Georges knows how to celebrate life.
His assorted French wares will fill your heart and tummy
with more than just sugar and empty calories.

The shop is a virtual museum of regional artistry,
candy tradition steeped in history and french pride.
  Located in the Latin Quarter, Le Bonbon au Palais is as essential
to your Paris memory bank as the Eiffel Tower.
  Charlie and his Chocolate Factory pale in comparison to the
  curated collection of sweet treats available in this amazing boutique.

  The school-room presentation is adorable and the hundreds (yes, hundreds)
of choices will capsize even your most vivid childhood wishlist.
  Apothecary jars filled with tempting bonbons promote the heritage
and expertise of France's accomplished candy artisans.
  It's a bit of a lesson, too, about French geography as Georges lovingly
underscores each region or town where the sweet was created.

  Calissons, pâtes de fruits, licorice, caramels, marshmallows, lollipops,
candied flowers & herbs .... too many temptations to count.
  Colorful and intriguing, these sweet treats will make you nostalgic for your childhood, but far better because you don't have to wait for Halloween.

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"The only way to rid of a temptation is to yield to it."
Oscar Wilde

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Floating Islands (Ile Flottante) is standard issue at many bistros but imagine
the added finesse of delicately crushed lavender candy sprinkled on top.
Oh happy day!
That's how Restaurant Lazare presents it
and yes, bon appetit to you, too.
  If that's not a taste of France, I don't know what is.

I never ever ever ever order extraneous mix-ins in my ice cream.
  It ruins the texture of the creamy treat.
  But at Berthillon, they somehow have figured out how to do it
without killing the velvety mouth-feel.
  Chocolate Mendiant is over the top, filled with luscious bits of candied fruit & nuts.

"Ice cream is exquisite.  What a pity it isn't illegal."
French Writer/Philosopher Voltaire

Have you ever considered ordering a dessert soufflé? 
Is there anything in the world as over-the-top
as a mile-high miracle of sugar and eggs?
  That's one chemistry class I'll sign up for.
  If you're anywhere near La Cigale Récamier, don't miss
their salted caramel soufflé....
or Grand Marnier .... or Petal of Rose ..... or .....

A chocolate topped profiterole, a heaven-sent vanilla mille-feuille,
a homey serving of cherry clafoutis, which will it be?
  In Paris, you're served the best of the best.
  Don't get stuck on one favorite. 
Try something new every chance you get.

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Speaking of trying something new, my favorite Paris self-indulgence
is the most humble sounding confection in the history of dessert cuisine.
  When I rave to my American friends about Les Pruneaux d'Agen au Fumet
de Madiran et sa Glace* (wine-soaked prunes and ice cream),
they immediately make the "ick" face.
  Stewed prunes are for sickly old people, right?
  Wrong, this dessert is happiness in one bite.
  And it doesn't even involve chocolate -- unheard of in my tummy DNA!
A dessert so exquisitely french, it's the perfect last dance of the day.
*served at Aux Charpentiers

But that's the thing about french cuisine.
If they can make things like goose liver and blood sausage delicious,
then you know they have no problem elevating the lowly prune to food of the gods.

Think beyond the usual creme brulée and tarte au chocolate. 
And remember, you only live once.
  Help yourself to a large serving of Happy.

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A few sweet addresses to remember:

Le Bonbon au Palais - 19, rue Monge (5th)
Chez Janou - 2, rue Roger Verlomme (3rd)
Berthillon - window, rue Saint-Louis-en-Île (4th)
La Cigale Récamier - 4, rue Récamier (7th)
Aux Charpentiers - 10, rue Mabillon (6th)
Restaurant Lazare - Gare Saint-Lazare, south-side, rue Intérieur (8th)


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Georges knows how to make everyone happy at Le Bonbon au Palais.
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Capturing the Spirit of Paris

7/11/2015

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Capturing the spirit of Paris is as easy as catching a cold.
  But for some, the magic of Paris is hard to find. 
I've heard grumblings that Paris is just too big,
too complicated, too crowded, too too....

That's a shame. 
Because it's out there, believe me.
  So here's my advice.
  Start small.
  Don't try to "do" everything at once. 

  Get to know Paris one neighborhood at a time.
  Search out a favorite museum, park or café chair.
Find your oeuvre, your Paris comfort zone,
and learn how to love this very loveable city.

I was just in Paris in June, one of the most tourist-crazed times of the year.
  Like you, I'm not fond of getting jostled and vexed
by all the eager beavers visiting this time of year.
  That said, at the busiest time of day (just after lunch),
I walked into a significant museum and found --- WIDE OPEN SPACES
with virtually no crowds or bothersome tour groups to avoid.

A destination worthy of your precious Paris time, the
  Museum of Modern Art City of Paris (Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris),
may not top the guidebook list of must-see museums -- but
it fits the bill perfectly in the "heat" of tourist season.
Located in one wing of the stunning Palais de Tokyo building,
it's a destination that offers an uninhibited look into the beautiful world
  of 20th century art movements and your personal chance
to capture a big whiff of the spirit of Paris.

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The Museum of Modern Art City of Paris is probably not what you think it is.
 
"Modern art is defined as art created from the 19th century to the mid-20th century by artists who veered away from the traditional concepts and techniques of painting, sculpture, and other fine arts that had been practiced since the Renaissance."
FreeDictionary.com

Nearly every phase of modern art was initially greeted by the public with ridicule,
but as the shock wore off, the various movements settled into history,
influencing and inspiring new generations of artists.
Many part-time art lovers don't understand the difference between
Modern and Contemporary so they stay away from anything that could
  possibly include distorted shapes and notions impossible to define - i.e. "weird."
  They expect a big red dot in the middle of a canvas punctuated
with a hashtag mark -- or some such version of the abstract.
Nope, that's not it.

Modern Art -- the genius presented in the Museum of Modern Art Paris --
is art work that was created roughly some time between
the 1880's through the early '70's.

  Contemporary Art is a completely different classification ---
works produced from about the mid-1970's through today and tomorrow.
  It's arbitrary by definition but I try to think of the contrast between the two this way.
  Modern Art includes the Impressionists, Post-Impressionists, Cubists, Les Fauves, Expressionists, Surrealists and pop artists (that's just the short list).
  It's a wide scope with something for everyone.
  So if you want a taste of -- say Picasso or Matisse --
head to museums identified as Modern. 

Contemporary Art is simply the art that is evolving in today's world.
From the mid-70's until now, art has re-invented itself into a myriad of ways.
If so-called issues art (AIDS awareness, globalization, bio-engineering, etc), performance art and interactivity aren't your thing, then don't worry.
  It's not at this museum.

"A painting in a museum hears more ridiculous opinions
than anything else in the world."
Edmund de Goncourt

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"One eye sees, the other feels."
Paul Klee

At one time, Modern Art was considered an experiment --
definitely not an instant hit.
And just like much of today's Contemporary Art, it too was considered strange.
  Style, color, technique all came into play as the new world order
took shape after the Industrial Revolution.

The new artists refused to accept the "cliches" of the past.
  Realism seemed outdated in a world that seemed to spin
faster and faster with each new turn of the calendar.
Fresh ideas -- better yet, the unexpected -- became
the plat du jour of the art world.
The post-impressionists had a field day with their bold new style.
  Les Fauves (the wild beasts) took it a step further and were
nearly outlawed from the "respected" galleries.

  As the art world turned itself upside down and inside out,
the talent turned up at the doorstep of inspiration -- Paris.
So it's fitting to see some of the most famous artists of the day
in this gorgeous 16th arrondissement palace.
Utrillo, Bonnard, Modigliano, Braque, Picasso,
Delaunay, Léger, Dérain, Man Ray and my own personal fave,
  Raoul Dufy, are just a partial list of the talent featured here.
Lucky you, lucky me.

"Art enables us to find ourselves and lose ourselves at the same time."
  Thomas Merton

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Art is ridiculously subjective.
  Whoever said "beauty is in the eye of the holder" got it right.
  Why do I love Raoul Dufy so much -- the same artist who was
forever criticized for being too fashionable, too commercial?
  I can't begin to answer that question.
I'm not an art critic; I just like his stuff. 
When it comes to art, don't question, just enjoy.

If you like your art the same way you like your cafés
(unhurried & easy-going), you'll love this museum.
No long lines, cool, wide open spaces, and FREE*. 
  *permanent collection only - the temporary exhibits have a fee.

The Museum of Modern Art City of Paris is one of the most enjoyable
art museums in the city and one that makes you think beyond
the typical borders of looking at pretty pictures. 
After all, as we gaze at this inspired art and contemplate
its complex history, what we're now seeing is considered classic.
  Back in the day, it was off-the-wall.
  Perhaps it will open new doors for you, too.

  My singular hope is it will remove you from this overload of
  digital technology we live with day in and day out -- if only for a moment.

And there you have it. 
You've found your Paris oeuvre.
Aren't you glad you didn't pre-judge "modern" art?

  You, too, have caught The Spirit of Paris.

Let it happen.
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Musée d'Art Modern Ville de Paris
11 avenue de President Wilson
Metro:  Alma-Marceau or Iéna
Open Tuesday - Sunday

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Saint-Rémy, Good Shepherd of Provence

7/3/2015

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The town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is almost
too good to be true even without the sheep.
  But on the day of the Transhumance, it evolves into a melting pot
of proud old-timers, delighted children, astonished tourists,
hard-working shepherds, accomplished sheepdogs, long-horned
goats, adorable donkeys and smiling sheep.
  Thousands of them.

  There are so many of them, it's pretty much nose-to-butt-to-nose
(the animals, not the people) for the approximately 2-mile jog
around the perimeter (two times) of this picture-perfect provencale town.

  It's quite a commotion. 
Goats sport raucous bells and the crowd cheers
as the zany sheep do what sheep do best.
Enthusiastic fans stand on tiptoe to get the best photo op and then do
  their best balancing act to stoop and pat one (or dozens) of the wooly beasts.

  It's like the running of the bulls in Pamplona but instead of dodging
fierce bovines as they try to trample everyone in their path,
  in Saint-Rémy you just get your funny bone nearly tickled to death.

There are horse-drawn carriages filled with costumed locals,
looking like they arrived fresh off a movie set.
  Lining the streets is a warm welcome from community artisans
  who produce and sell home-grown products such as
goat cheese, jams, honey, tapenade and olive oil.

  And best of all, at the conclusion of the "3k run" you're able to join in
the old time charm of a festival that includes lots of wine, food,
music and all the traditional trappings of France at its finest.

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Afterwards, of course, the crowd has worked up an appetite so you
head back toward your favorite bistro for -- what else -- the lamb "plat du jour"
as town workers manage to scoop up and hose down every speck
of sheep (!) that isn't already on someone else's chaussure.
 
The sea of sheep are probably thankful for their moment of glory,
ready to move on to higher and more delicious pastures.
  And you are left wondering how an annual agricultural event can be so much fun. 

The South of France is always a good idea -- but visiting its
good shepherd, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence during its annual
Fête de la Transhumance is downright genius.
The town pulls out all the stops to cheer the annual migration of some 3,000
  sheep from home field advantage to their annual alpine vacation destination.

This feat is called a Transhumance, a word that sounds a lot more
complicated than it is -- so all I'll say is DON'T MISS IT.
 
Here's le scoop. 
Every spring, on Pentecost Monday (sometimes referred to as Whit Monday),
the French - being the French - have come up with another reason for a street party.
  The rationale for this event is both logical and noble.
  This is lamb country, a place where the locals move heaven and earth
to care for the adorable - and tasty - little darlings.
Celebrating life and heritage is what the French do best.

  The so-called Transhumance is simply the migration of sheep,
seasonally moving the herd from local pastures into the lush
high ground of the southern Alps for better summer grazing. 
Happy livestock make for a better dinner and
 warmer coat (my apologies to you vegetarians out there).


The picturesque streets of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence will fill
your heart with gladness on any day of the year.

But on the day of the Fête de la Transhumance, the rewards are boundless.
Joie de vivre times 3,000!
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Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is famous for its many diverse pleasures. 
  A plane tree lined ring road, charming squares, and
a Wednesday morning market for starters.

  Recognized for the incredible Roman ruins at The Antiquities and Glanum, Saint-Rémy is a must-see for all those seriously interested in historic preservation.

  The remarkable hospital -- St. Paul de Mausole -- where
Vincent van Gogh frantically lived and painted (including Starry Night)
during his final year on earth, is tastefully and thoughtfully presented.

  Restaurants, museums, galleries and très vieux mansions
all paint a pretty picture of Provence.

The inspirational Alpilles mountains surround you with a somewhat
stark beauty as gourmets plot to climb any mountain
for a taste of the local aïoli, tapenade and goat cheese.

  This is the place where famed 16th century seer Nostradamus was born
and famous celebrities take a break from the limelight.

  At times, the infamous mistral blows though the trees
and oh, did I mention chocolate?
  Joel Durand's shop is an A to Z mecca for all lovers of the cocoa bean. 

But I'll save all that for another day and another blog.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence has too many charms for one day.
  For a town of fewer than 10,000 people, it's a lot to chew on -- even
on a day where lamb shank, lamb stew and shepherd pie is de rigueur. 

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For now, I think I'll just close my eyes and dream of
Making the Rounds in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. 

No need to count sheep ever again.

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Perhaps this is what Hemingway was thinking of when he spoke of "a moveable feast".....
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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