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100 Layers of Paris

10/31/2015

It's a red letter day for The Paris Effect Blog.
This marks our 100th on-line rhapsody about all things Paris.
One hundred declarations of devotion exalting the
symphony of this unparalleled city, forever confident
There's No Such Thing as Too Much Paris.

Paris is shameless in her outright beauty, the ability to bring countless
visitors to their knees, inciting many of us to dream with our eyes
wide open about the chance to return again and again.

Not that you Paris lovers need any reminders of why you love this city.
It's just our way of saying merci to our readers:
Just a few reasons we are wept off our feet by
The Paris Effect.

1. What ever is on my plate or in my glass. Period.
2. The nearly empty courtyard of The Louvre, lit up at night or in the dusky early a.m.
3. The royal gallery of queens in the splendiferous Luxembourg Gardens.
4. La Grande Epicurie's ultra-sophisticated displays of the season's best edibles.
5. Hot Chocolate at Jacques Genin -- forgive me, Father, for I have sinned....

6. Bored faces on the Metro -- metro, boulot, dodo syndrome.
7. Lamb with prunes at Le Bistro d'Henri -- an unforgettable taste of french Africa.
8. Pressing my nose to the window at Cartier with unhealthy lust for a tank watch.
9. The hidden gardens and corners of green in Montparnasse.
10. High & low street fashion -- whether classic or outrageous, it's always fun.

11. 300+ steps of Montmartre -- and the ease with which the locals climb them.
12. A full glass of champagne at any of the grand old cafés.
13. Cemetery markers with pebbles carefully arranged on top to honor the deceased.
14. Rolling shopping carts filled to the brim at the roving marché.
15. Baguettes, boules, ficelles on parade -- snatched up fresh daily, sometimes twice.

16. Retro lingerie at Princesse Tam Tam -- dainty boxers & pointy bras included.
17. Getting a glimpse of George at Shakespeare & Co. (may he rest in peace).
18. Le Tour de France -- flash-whiz-bang ---- 3,500 kilometers of French thrills & spills.
19. Diverse musicians in the Metro -- you never know who or what you'll hear.
20. Morning coffee sipped ever so slowly at my local café.

21. The Burghers of Calais in Rodin's garden -- heart-stopping emotion in bronze.
22. Church bells ringing in the early morning.
23. Musée Carnavalet, M. de l'Art Moderne, Petit Palais for starters, all with free entry.
24. Unexpected view of la Tour Eiffel from Passy Cemetery & Musée de l'Architecture.
25. Mouth-watering window display at Gerard Mulot -- political ad for Pavlov's dog.

26. Perfume -- unforgettable, beautiful, a way of life -- never leave home without it.
27. Paris pets -- sophisticated, cultured, well-groomed, and well-behaved.
28. Wall gardens -- vertical works of art surprise and delight.
29. Carousels -- sure to bring a smile -- who expects to see a dodo bird in Paris?
30. Sandwich au saucisson -- baguette, butter, thinly sliced salami -- better than sex.

31. Statue of Captain Dreyfus in front of the Jewish Museum -- a feeling of déja vu.
32. Oysters & Sancerre paired together any time of the day.
33. Eavesdropping on students from Sciences Po engaged in heated political debate.
34. Sainte-Chapelle's light & shadow dancing through the prism of stained glass.
35. Getting to be a kid in a candy store again at Le BonBon au Palais.

36. Doors, beautifully carved and colored on every street, in every neighborhood.
37. Black & White at Palais Royale -- stunning masterpiece of architectural harmony.
38. 50 Shades of Le Metro -- a reflection of the diversity of neighborhoods.
39. Contemporary sculpture in Tuileries gardens, particularly those of Aristide Maillot.
40. Cheese - hundreds & hundreds of earthy, nutty, sometimes funky taste of France.

.41. Bookstores and folks reading real books everywhere you turn.
42. Beekeepers in Luxembourg Gardens -- brave caretakers of nature's bounty.
43. A sandbox filled with smiling children at Place des Vosges.
44. Enduring the Memorial de la Shoah -- repeat after me, Never Again .....
45. Honoring the Wall of of the Righteous, for those angels who tried to help ....

46. Cats performing death-defying stunts on balconies and roofs.
47. Adults riding kid-style scooters to work.
48. Saxe-Breteuil -- an open air market with a view.
49. Waiters wearing traditional garb -- never pestering, always knowledgeable.
50. Muscular "ladies" on parade across from the heights of the Promenade Plantée.

51. The polished right foot of Montaigne's statue in the Latin Quarter.
52. Victor Noir's well-tended anatomy in Père Lachaise Cemetery -- PDA Paris-style.
53. Carillon bells ringing in the bell-tower near Saint-Germain-L'Auxerrois.
54. La Pagode Cinema -- one-of-a-kind movie theater boasts garden and lavish detail.
55. Attending a monthly meeting of Adrian Leed's Parler Paris Après-Midi.

56. The "ghosts" of rue Saint-Jaques -- pilgrims trekking to St. James de Campostela.
57. Raspberry-rose sorbet at Berthillon -- really, any of their premier scoops of Paris.
58. Hearing "oui, madame" instead of "yes, ma'am" -- for which I am beyond grateful.
59. A mile-high souffle -- or two -- dining alfresco at La Cigale Recamier.
60. Upon arrival, your first metro ride/cup of coffee/glass of wine/peek at the E.Tower.

61. Dancing with the locals on Bastille Day.
62. Admiring the ominous skyline from Pompidou Center as a storm approaches.
63. Seven Swans a-swimming at Parc Montsouris.
64. The crazy clutter & confusion at BHV -- annoying and awesome at the same time.
65. Discovering a cool new street like rue Cremieux or Cour-du-Commerce-St-Andre.

66. Admiring the locals as they honor the tradition of Sunday lunch.
67. Bastille Day Parade -- the thrilling formation of a military plane fly-over.
68. Secret streets just off the beaten path in Montmartre.
69. Hector Guimard's synagogue on rue Pavée and Castel Beranger on rue Fontaine.
70. Deyrolle's unrivaled butterfly collection -- too pretty to be creepy.

71. Three -- the number of pastries I ate in one day (oui, I was très mal au ventre).
72. Catching a film crew at work -- dramatic slap included.
73. Easily finding the WC because a pee still life hangs above the door.
74. Having an Amelie moment at least once a day.
75. Watching cars park impossibly close together -- WTF.

76. Relishing delicious full fat yogurt every morning -- America, are you listening?
77. A condom machine outside every pharmacy -- because sometimes love can't wait.
78. Classy tea salons I swear I'll try one day as soon as I get my fill of wine ....
79. Despairing over the Val d'Hiver monument that would melt a snowman's heart.
80. New exhibit every season at the Palais Galliera -- putting trendy fashion to shame.

81. Crazy-wonderful view from the top of the Arc de Triomphe -- my beating heart.
82. Tranquility on Place von Furstemburg -- vintage postcard perfection.
83. Gobsmacked at Serge Gainesbourg's gloriously graffitied house on rue Verneuil.
84. Musée Baccarat -- the mansion, the chandeliers, the romance of sparkly stuff.
85. Tearing up at General Lafayette's graveside in Picpus Cemetery.

86. Toasty-warm 6-layer wrap -- Napoleon's gorgeous memorial tomb at Les Invalides.
87. Girl Power in The Pantheon where Marie Curie & Sophie Berthelot are laid to rest.
88. More Pantheon Girl Power -- as French Resistance heroines will soon R.I.P.
89. Enchanting charm of classic bistros such as Benoit & A la Biche au Bois.
90. Buzzing with music that booms through big audio cathedrals like Saint-Sulpice.

91. Scared witless in Marie Antoinette's cell in The Conciergerie.
92. Enjoying a slow ramble on the rolling green hills of Parc des Buttes Chaumont.
93. Relishing a family dinner with a french family (double lucky!).
94. Eavesdropping on a failed romance and tragic breakup at the local café.
95. Entering the security code in your very own apartment rental -- priceless.

96. Realizing the baker recognizes you from daily visits -- as does your bartender.
97. Stopping in for a quick cup of java at the very first cafe, Le Procope, born in 1686.
98. Suddenly realizing Ben Franklin, T. Jefferson and N. Bonaparte drank there, too.
99. Remembering the exact moment you saw Place Dauphine for the first time.
100 Contemplating all the ghosts who have walked the same momentous boulevards.

I just realized this was far too easy.

100 layers of Paris is too narrow for such a magnificent city.
I should have held off until my 1,000th blog --
because -- it should come as no surprise --
it's a piece of cake to find 900 more layers of Paris.

Thanks for sharing in the joy of The Paris Effect.

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Nancy Unwrapped - Refined French Fun

10/23/2015

8 Comments

I have a crush on Nancy -- Nancy, France that is.

Immersed in elegance, dripping with art nouveau architecture,
furniture and objets d'art, Nancy is the perfect French getaway,
ideal for lovers of art, sophisticated style and fine cuisine.

Admittedly, I wasn't sure if this was worth more than a quick overnight.
Most guidebooks recommend Nancy as little more than a cursory
diversion on your way between the prestigious and universally
adored wine-soaked regions of Champagne and Alsace.
And then there's the whole Alsace-Lorraine thing --- the more obscure
Lorraine always playing second banana to blue-chip Alsace.
Little hyped Nancy fares even less ink.

How wrong those back-seat drivers are.
Take a closer look and you'll find an intriguing city where the best bits
are polished and nuanced, a corner of France with a different sort of flavor.
If you love art and you love France, you too will be glad
you scored a date with beautiful Nancy.

Nancy is best known for its large neoclassical square,
Place Stanislas,
a great place to start your tour.

Known as Place Stan to the locals, this resplendent piece
of real estate will knock your socks off.
So fancy, it may even out-ritz The Ritz in blue-blooded Place Vendome Paris.

Wrought iron gateways surround pale stone buildings and elaborate fountains,
a setting that's lavish enough to say it's fit for a king -- which is appropriate since
it was a king -- make that a deposed king -- who brought the ornate square to light.

King Stanislas I of Poland lost his kingdom when the
Treaty of Vienna ended the war between France and Austria.
The titans of Austria negotiated an agreement to unseat the King of Poland.
In exchange, France strategically offered the deposed king the dukedom of Lorraine.
French King Louis XV was quite simply "keeping it in the family".
Stanislas of Poland was his father-in-law so the deal made peace
and all parties came out ahead.

As thanks for his new role in France, Stanislas created a royal square
(1752-1755) to honor his french (son-in-law) king.
He pulled out all the stops, fashioning a symmetrical masterpiece
considered to be one of the finest squares in all of Europe,
so much so that it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
UNESCO's stated goal "to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius"
underscores the brilliance of this architectural wonder.
I couldn't say it any better.

Nancy is a triumph of French artistry.

Near majestic Place Stanislas, you'll find two more examples
of the Polish-king-turned-duke's generosity.
Place de la Carrière and Place d'Alliance extend the symmetrical
perfection of his architectural tour de force.
Sometimes overlooked by the more conspicuous Place Stan,
these treasures have been recognized by UNESCO as another
example of Stanislas' monumental reconstructive surgery in his adopted home.

The expression urban planning connotes a modern effort to tie together
the organization and design of a city.
In this case, Stanislas connected medieval Nancy to the "new" town
built in the 17th century.
A grand palace with a superb perspective offer an air of refinement
made for romance and a reason to slow down.

Savor the pretty fountains, trees, pavilions and flowers -- just
one more thing to love about fancy Nancy.

Historic candy shop filled to the brim with bergamots and traditional macarons will sweeten your visit

Nancy refuses to rest on her laurels.
This art-crazed city boasts treasures conspicuously unconventional,
making this traveler wonder why it's not on more "must see" itineraries.

The School of Nancy (Ecole de Nancy) is a storehouse of art nouveau riches.
I can always define my feelings by the number of capitol letters and
exclamation points I use in my travel journal -- for this particular museum,
I penned STUNNING!! OVERWHELMED!!! BEAUTIFUL!!!!
You get the point.

The Art Nouveau movement -- 1880 until around 1910 -- is considered
one of the great periods of artistic style.
Defined by exquisitely curved lines, the design serves up
a near fatal blend of luxury and ornate technique -- yet remains
steeped in a graceful harmony with nature.
The end result projects romance and femininity, a style influence
we usually associate with big brother Paris.

Decorative arts had finally earned a seat in the hierarchy of the
art world, a promotion from the back room.
There was glory in the intricately wrought
masterpieces that defined the art nouveau movement.

You can visit the School of Nancy, now an easy-going museum housed
in a beautiful 1909 villa -- and a lovely garden to match.
You'll fill your quota of art nouveau master works,
capped off by Emile Galle's sensually curvy furniture that
will make you want to race home to chop your own tragic trappings to pieces.

Artists of the day, architects, glass-masters and inventors make for
a museum experience you'll never forget.

The name Daum is synonymous with the city of Nancy and is quite naturally
one of the highlights of this triumph, particularly their colorful lamps and vases.
Do not miss the chance to see this exquisite legacy, for me,
the highlight of my trip to Nancy.

Look for Louis Majorelle's stunning villa in the heart of art nouveau Nancy

Nancy's neo-classical Museum of Fine Arts (Musee des Beaux-Arts de Nancy), located in the heart of Place Stanislas, includes works
you'd never expect to see outside Paris or London.
Tintoretto, Rubens, Caravaggio, Delacroix, and Picasso are just a handful
of the richly accomplished artists that make this museum so special.

Great works from the 14th century through the 21st century make it a rich stop
for even those who don't typically enjoy art museums.
Sculpture by Maillol, Rodin and Zadkine energize the abundantly loaded galleries.

The Daum Exhibition Gallery contains some 600 pieces from Nancy's
most influential glassworks company so if you didn't get your fill
at the School of Nancy, you'll find it here.

Recognizing so many diverse elements in one grand gallery
is the consummate art experience and you need not worry about the crowds
you typically encounter in other European capitols.

Strolling Nancy's neighborhoods is easy.
The best parts are pretty centrally located and soon enough
you'll forget about your achy feet.
In Nancy, it's all about the details -- leaf and tendril motifs, birds,
flowers and insects combined in intricate curved designs in
every neighborhood marked by the art nouveau movement.

There are other parts of the city that are markedly medieval in flavor
and still others propelled by French classicism.
Take your time and focus on the small details.

Several parks offer gorgeous green views including an important botanical garden. As in all of France, churches play a large role but if your time is short,
I recommend a look at either The Cathedral of Nancy or the Basilique Saint-Epvre.

When in Nancy, let's face it -- the focus is art nouveau.
And that alone is a worthwhile effort.

The Brasserie Excelsior is an excellent example of art nouveau design

The Triumphal Arch of Nancy, built to honor French King Louis XV, reminds us of Rome's Arch of Septimius Severus

A mecca for art nouveau lovers - the esteemed Ecole de Nancy

Eight sons of Nancy lost their lives in the Battle of Yorktown in 1781 fighting for American independence.

Pretty Parc Pépiniére is worth a stroll.

Quirky but fun bistro Le Bouche a L'Oreille - cheese, wine, fondue = comfort cuisine near Place Stanislas

Eglise des Cordeliers is the resting place for the Dukes of Lorraine

The other face of Nancy's fine arts museum - another time and place

Nancy is a gateway into the rarified world of art nouveau.
That's huge on its own -- but there's so much more.

Its richly appointed Place Stanislas is so elegant, it comes as a surprise.
And I haven't even mentioned quiche lorraine yet,
the dish made famous in this land of bacon and cream.

Good king Stanislas I contributed to Nancy's wealth of riches in other ways as well.
French cuisine's legendary baba au rhum, a dessert we typically associate
with Paris bistro cooking, was created for the feasts he so proudly hosted.

Enjoy lunch at L'Impromptu in the Marché Couvert for a
french taste of what's fresh from the market daily.

And please, spend a couple of days wrapped in Nancy's extraordinary aura,
surely one of France's best kept secrets.

Porte de la Craffe - medieval gateway to the city

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France, Temple of Fragrance

10/3/2015

1 Comment

Of all the cherished moments in your life, is there anything lovelier
than the scent someone offers as they lean in
to grace you with a kiss?

We have France to thank for that particular gift.
France -- where rampant effort and cold sober skill go into
the art of making the world a sweeter, more lovable place.
It's the ultimate temple of fragrance,
a historic treasury of all things exquisitely scented.
And of course, Paris is the altar we adore, headmaster of the splendid nose.

We dream about that walk down the Champs-Elysées
where we discover the timeless essence that calls our name.
Finding the perfect perfume is much like stumbling on
a beautiful painting in the Musée D'Orsay.
The spell is cast and you're not quite the same person you were yesterday.

A good perfume doesn't just happen by accident.
The cult of French fragrance is a long and fascinating road.
It begins in the south, in the little town of Grasse,
historic capitol to the world of perfume.

"A woman should wear fragrance wherever she expects to be kissed"
Coco Chanel.

Provence, fabled land of lavender and wildflower.
Grasse represents the region well, its ancient streets filled with
the promise of delicately flowered arches and towering palms.

It's a fun town, easy to visit -- near to both Nice and Cannes --
ideal for a pleasantly mellow and informative day.
Perfume capitol of the planet, Grasse draws thousands of visitors
year after year, enthusiastic nomads who long to sniff and swoon
over the latest sweet scents money can buy.

Several perfume museum-factory-showrooms offer visits
including Musée Fragonard, Musée Institut de la Parfumerie,
Galimard and Molinard just to name a few.
Each gallery has its own special character where you're sure to be
wowed as you peek into the technical backbone of the industry
that produces one of the world's costliest luxuries.
Personable guides introduce visitors to Le Nez (The Nose) -- professionals
trained to distinguish from thousands of different scents
that ultimately lead to your favorite perfume.

Vintage bottles designed by crystal purveyors Lalique
and Baccarat make the trip to Grasse exceptional.
Collections of rare objects, works of art and all things
related to the world of perfume are tied together in a package
as pretty as your best bottle of fragrance.

And of course, where can you find a better souvenir of your trip to France?
Perfume speaks volumes and whether you gift it or keep it
for your own personal enjoyment, a bottle of scented luxury says
FRANCE perhaps better than anything else.

"...To create new arrangements, new olfactory forms, it is enough that you think
"in odours", like the painter "in colours", and the musician "in sounds"...
Edmond Roudnitzka, French Master Perfumer

Just when you've had enough of the real world and its stinking agenda,
there's nothing more soothing than the scent of a beautiful french perfume.
Scent has been around long before there was a Paris, a Grasse or even a France.
The Greeks and the Romans enjoyed the restorative powers of perfume,
extolling its seductive powers that sometimes changed history.

At one time, bathing was considered unhealthy.
Women had to put up with poorly tanned leather gloves,
making them smell more like a dead animal than a lady.
The essence of flowers became a cure-all for fixing the stink.

Fragrance is symbolic of French culture, commensurate
with her fabled architecture, cuisine and history.
And -- ta da! -- it's a money-maker.
In 2014, the estimated revenue of the fragrance industry was 600,000,000 euros.

Consider the top brands, names you're sure to recognize.
Guerlain, Chanel, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Caron,
Annick Goutal, Yves Saint Laurent for starters.
Many fashion houses made the easy segue into fragrance.
After all, perfume is as important to a person's first impression as their wardrobe.
Balmain, Jean Patou, Worth, Hermès, LaCoste, and Givenchy,
kings of haute couture, made the easy leap into the world of scent.

Many of us who cannot afford designer duds
can manage a splurge or two on designer fragrance.

"You use Evyan skin cream, and sometimes you wear L'Air du Temps, but not today."
sniffed Hannibal Lector to Clarisse Starling

Most people run from advertising.
But when was the last time you turned your head away from a perfume ad?

Fragrance propaganda is abstract, a highly marketable message often geared
toward passion, romance, femininity, masculinity, youth or confidence.
Selling an abstract aura is not the same as selling cars or political candidates. Savvy marketing gurus go way beyond the scent.
From Madison Avenue to the Champs-Elysées, ad execs ballyhoo what's
behind the brand -- desire, happiness, energy, success and a pretty face.

No doubt, Cleopatra would have owned a namesake perfume,
Caesar and Marc Antony a running competition for best brand.
And who can TiVo through a tv commercial, gorgeously shot in Paris,
selling The Dream -- with whispers of love, passion, beauty ....
and most of all, Paris.

French perfumers lean toward the unspoken offer of escape or eroticism.
Compare that to the American brands that promote "having it all"
like Revlon's retro Charlie commercials -- Shelly Hack wore pants! -- and
Enjoli's "You can bring home the bacon...." ad.
It was the 1980's and a woman could wear perfume
and still be out and out in charge and liberated.
Those ads were so evocative of a specific time and place.

It looks like a mad scientist's workshop -- but this is how your favorite fragrance is made

Le Nez resides here - The Nose knows

Nope, not eggs -- These are perfumed soaps at Musée Fragonard in Grasse

Abundance is the word for flower filled Grasse.

Women often speak of their signature fragrance.
Personally, I love vintage scents like Guerlain's Samsara -- actually all
things Guerlain -- as well as Coco Chanel's very own blend, Coco --
and for my man, Eau Savage by Christian Dior.
My daughter refers to these classics as granny scents in typical
Baby Boomer vs. Millennials fashion.

And that's ok.
After all, we don't dress the same either.
It's a reflection on how closely matched a perfume is to a person's individuality.
So don't write off that vintage bottle -- think vintage wine, classic cars
and The Rolling Stones -- never out of style, more valuable than ever,
and most definitely unforgettable.

"One of the very few things that I do every single day is put on fragrance.
If I'm not wearing make-up, if my hair's not done,
if I'm walking around in pajamas -- I still put my fragrance on.
I will brush my teeth and put on my perfume."
Blake Lively

Think of the smells you love and the importance you attach to them -- such as
freshly baked bread, clean sheets, a spring rain or the first whiff of a Christmas tree.
Good aromas are one of life's premiere gifts.

Choosing a scent is like voting -- you just know it when you "see" it.

Emotionally intoxicating essences -- flowers, spices, citrus, barks,
mosses -- an incredibly long list of exquisite ingredients go into our perfumes.
Add some scent to your daily routine.
It's your chance for a pampered moment, a gift of luxury
that shouldn't be saved for a rainy day.

You may not be as Parisian as you wish -- you know,
that scarf-tying thing they do -- but you can easily surround yourself
with the essence of Paris -- a fine french perfume
that will lift your spirits and feed your soul.

"Share the fantasy"
Chanel n5

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100 Layers of Paris

Nancy Unwrapped - Refined French Fun

France, Temple of Fragrance

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!

Archives

Categories

100 Layers of Paris

Nancy Unwrapped - Refined French Fun

France, Temple of Fragrance

AUTHORMICHELLE MOGGIOThanks for visiting my blog!

Archives

Categories

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!