Blog Archives

GUIDE2PARIS -- Merci Bien!

6/26/2014

I want to shout from the rooftops a special note of thanks to the marvelous Paris publication

Guide2Paris

Today they published an interview, asking probing questions about where, what, and why I wrote
"The Paris Effect".

You have to respect a publication that promotes new authors and their work.

If you aren't familiar with them yet, please make sure to visit www.guide2paris.com
very soon.

You'll enjoy the visit -- it's perfumed with every essential you'll need for your next trip to our favorite city!

Enjoy the read.

For more about my interview, click here.
.
Thank you for your interest.

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A Chateau without the Rabble

6/25/2014

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Chateau de Champs-sur-Marne is a rare find and not at all far from central Paris. Last October, I boarded the RER A and eleven miles later, found myself in a small town WITH NO TOURISTS.

This seriously sumptuous chateau and all 210 glorious acres of surrounding gardens was nearly tourist free during my visit.
I couldn't believe my good luck and wandered at will through the entire estate.

Built in the 17th Century, the estate has been frequented by a long list of notables such as Voltaire, Diderot, Marcel Proust,
Madame de Pompadour, Isadora Duncan and many more.

These days, it's best known as a famous film location for dozens of films including 'Dangerous Liaisons', 'Marie Antoinette', and 'Vatel'. John Malkovich, Kirsten Dundst and Gérard Depardieu have wandered these beautiful halls for the sake of their craft and we're all the better for it.

Do yourself a favor. Next time you're in Paris, take a time-out for a wander where set designers and film directors perfect their craft.

THERE'S NO PLACE LIKE HOME
***************************************************

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

Don't miss a chance to see a french country chateau minus the crazy crowds.
Neo-Classical architecture at its best.

RER A from Paris direction Chessy Marne-la-Valée
Exit Noisel station
Twenty minute walk to the chateau or ride
local bus 220 to Marie de Champs
Chateau is closed on Tuesdays.

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Ruth a.k.a. Mom

6/23/2014

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Ruchla Rechtman Ruwe

Rose Marie Regnier

Mom

Ruth

THE REAL RUTH

If you’ve had the chance to read my book, 'The Paris Effect', you’ve met Ruth. Feisty, disturbed, charming, haughty, fun, naughty, always interesting, she is the linchpin of the book.

Although The Paris Effect is a work of fiction, the spirit of Ruth is based in large part on someone near and dear to my heart, my Mom. Most people simply knew her as Rosemary Ruwe or Mrs. Stuart Ruwe, but her real name was Ruchla Rechtman Ruwe. Sometimes.

During WWII in Paris, she assumed another identity. As a young Jewess, she was in harms way 24/7. Early in the war, the Jews in France were wary of the rumors about supposed Nazi atrocities taking place on the eastern front. Unfortunately, most of them remained in denial. They had heard vague stories of the “work camps” and hoped to avoid them at all costs. Little did they know that a madman could dream up a plan to extinguish a whole group of people, a madman who would grow his followers into a nation of haters.

In the early days of the war, my grandparents worried about these things – but not too much. They were mostly concerned for their oldest children who were of age to “work.” They and their youngest three children dutifully reported to the higher authorities to be assigned their yellow stars that identified them as members of the Jewish “race.” They followed the rules and of course we know the end of that story. All perished in Auschwitz.

Luckily, my mom’s older sister had married a Frenchman of means and he produced three cartes d'identité so his wife, my mom and their oldest brother could assume new names and religious affiliation. That’s when my mom became Rose Marie Regnier, a name borrowed from an actual person whose life was lost at a young age. She didn’t have to wear the yellow star. She was never branded with a hideous tattoo. But believe me, she was forever scarred.

A close friend recently questioned whether my mom was a Holocaust survivor. She felt since she hadn’t been interred in a concentration camp, she shouldn’t be labeled a survivor. That statement stopped me cold. I didn’t know what to say. My mom’s life was consumed by the ugliness of war, the cruelty of people, the unimaginable atrocities committed for no good reason. She worried constantly about her own new family in America. If your grandmother on your mother’s side is Jewish, then you, too, (no matter your religious preference) are a Jew. Secrecy, guilt, and sadness followed her all the way to the U.S.A. and, in spite of leading an exemplary life and creating a wonderful home for her family, she never fully recovered. The answer is yes,
Ruchla Rechtman Ruwe / Rose Marie Regnier / Mom
was a Holocaust survivor.

I hope and pray my story about Ruth did her justice. It would be impossible, really, but I tried.

French
Carte d'Identité
during WWII
*****************

Ruchla Rechtman became
Rose Marie Regnier and was saved
from sure death in the hands of the Nazis.

6,000,000 Jews were not.

Always remember, never forget.
Rest in Peace.

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Montparnasse and a Horse of a Different Color

6/21/2014

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When you think of Montparnasse, you probably think of Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald. Or Josephine Baker and Kiki de Montparnasse. And Lenin and Trotsky. Or perhaps Picasso, Man Ray and Modigliani come to mind. Whew, what an extraordinary quartier! Sure, they're all famous in their own right and each individual deservedly has a story.

But have you heard of Antoine Bourdelle? This amazing artist has his own museum and street right in the heart of artsy Montparnasse. The Musée Bourdelle is a perfect little spot to spend an hour or two on your next trip to Paris. As an assistant to the great Auguste Rodin, he moved on to become a teacher at the famous L'Academie de la Grande Chaumiere. His name and work now grace a memorable little museum that boasts a gorgeous garden, a fine gallery and his actual artist studio. Bourdelle's sculpture of a dying centaur is provoking as is his take on Madonna and Child.

Peek through the museum gates to see his grand horse bronze (think Greek mythology, not Kentucky Derby). The stunning stallion stands proudly amidst the greenery of the garden oasis.

And it's FREE! Don't go on Monday, it's closed. Bonus, I've read (but haven't yet tried) about a nearby restaurant, La Cabane a Huitres, (just a few doors down the street)and the reviews are good. Any excuse to eat oysters from the Atlantic coast is good enough for me.

Location: 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle in the 15th arrondisement / Metro: Montparnasse-Bievenue or Falguière

Don't miss a chance to see this little museum!
Off the beaten path and boasting no heavy tourist traffic, it's the perfect way to escape the expected.

If you're a lover of all things Rodin, give Monsieur Bourdelle a look. These are the hidden gems that make Paris the city of pure pleasure.
Enjoy!

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Pure Inspiration: Books & Movies - FRANCE

6/19/2014

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If you're aching for a little fresh inspiration, then why not try a French movie. Get in the mood with a few of my favorites:

Midnight in Paris
Amélie
Hugo
The Butterfly
Two Days in Paris
Merry Christmas (Joyeux Noel)
The Intouchables
La Vie en Rose
The Well Diggers Daughter
Chocolat
The Diving Bell & the Butterfly
A Very Long Engagement
The Chorus
The Hunchback of Notre Dame
The 400 Blows
Queen to Play
Paris, Je t'aime
My Afternoons with Margueritte
Diplomacy
A French Village* (Un Village Francais)
*mini-series
Before Sunset
Two Days in Paris
Funny Face
Julie & Julia
An American in Paris
Back to Burgundy
Come What May

No Need to Fight the Crowds!

Amélie steals everyone's heart. The movie features gorgeous shots of Paris. It's little wonder why we watch the film over and over again.

TV Series:

A French Village (Un Village Francais)
Escape to the Chateau
Emily in Paris
Call My Agent
Balthazar
The Parisian Agency

"Read the best books first, or you may not have a chance to read them at all" -- quote attributed to Henry David Thoreau

Here are more books to consider:

"The Bettencourt Affair" by Tom Sancton
"Paris in the Present Tense" by Mark Helprin
"The Lost Vintage: a Novel" by Ann Mah
"Ritz & Escoffier" by Luke Barr
"The Alice Network" by Kate Quinn
"My 25 Years in Provence" by Peter Mayle
"Villa America" by Liza Klaussmann
"The Rain Watcher" by Tatiana de Rosnay
"The Age of Light" by Whitney Scharer
"The Flight Portfolio" by Julie Orringer
"Paris Echo" by Sebastian Faulk
"Madame Fourcade's Secret War" by Lynne Olson
"The Winemaker's Wife" by Kristin Harmel
"The World That We Knew" by Alice Hoffman
"The Seine: The River that Made Paris", by
Elaine Sciolini
"Perestroika in Paris" by Jane Smiley
"Paris Never Leaves You" by Ellen Feldman
"The Queen of Paris" by Pamela Binnings Ewen
***********************************
I hope you'll consider adding my book to your list as well,
"The Paris Effect" by Michelle Moggio

Books are twice as tough to pick!
So many good ones! So little time....
Here are a few of my favorites:
"The Invisible Bridge' by Julie Orringer
'The President's Hat' by Antoine Laurain
'The Hundred-Foot Journey' by Richard C. Morais
'The Hotel on Place Vendome' by Tilar J. Mazzeo
'The Book of Salt' by Monique Truong
'The Elegance of the Hedgehog' by Muriel Barbery
'Paris Letters' -- Janice MacLeod
'A Year in Provence' by Peter Mayle
'Time Was Soft There' by Jeremy Mercer
'The Greater Journey - Americans in Paris' by David McCullough
'All the Light We Cannot See' by Anthony Doerr
'Lovers at the Chameleon Club' by Francine Prose
"Sur la Route" by Cecilia Woloch
"100 Places in France Every Woman Should Go"
by Marcia De Sanctis
"Avenue of Spies" by Alex Kershaw
"The Little Paris Bookshop" by Nina George
"Lilac Girls" by Martha Hall Kelly
"32 Yolks" by Eric Ripert
"Guardians of the Louvre" by Jiro Taniguchi
"Daisy in Exile" by J.T. Allen
"Les Parisiennes" by Anne Sebba
"Cooking for Picasso" by Camille Aubray
"The White Russian" by Vanora Bennett
"Road to Valor" by Aili & Andres McConnon
"The Girl You Left Behind" by JoJo Moyes
"The Suitors" by Cécile David-Weill
"The Room on Rue Amelie" by Kristin Harmel
"Three Hours in Paris" by Cara Black
"Dirt: Adventures, with Family in Lyon..." by Bill Buford
"The Paris Hours" by Alex George
"The Black Swan of Paris" by Karen Robards
"The Paris Library" by Janet Skeslien Charles
"Americans in Paris" by Charles Glass
"The Lost Carousel of Provence" by Juliet Blackwell
"The Women of Chateau Lafayette" by Stephanie Dray

Don't even get me started on Cookbooks!

That's a whole different blog...... David Lebovitz, Susan Herrmann Loomis, Jacques Pepin, Patricia Wells, Dorie Greenspan, Laura Calder.....

More to follow ..... I need to raid the refrigerator.....

Bon appetit!

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Postcard Paris -- sort of....

6/15/2014

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Street Art reminds us that you sometimes have to work for your reward.

No, those aren't the famous steps leading up to Montmartre in the photo above. This kind of street art shows slice-of-life Paris and I find it as charming as any art in a gallery or museum. Let's face it, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and when you compare the dramatic beauty of the iconic Sacre Coeur with the beautiful-ugly photo at the top, you suddenly realize they both make your heart beat a little bit faster.

Isn't that what we want from our vacation?

Often, people tell me they can't stand contemporary art. Or they hate looking at canvases, period. Or even worse, they've never put a foot inside a museum or gallery because they don't have the time.

Wake up, people!

It's a beautiful world out there. There's some type of art installation that will raise your pulse. It might be a canvas, a sculpture, the performing arts, a park, a cemetery, a building, a door, a flower, a tree --- hopefully, you get my drift. Start looking!

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All Choked Up

6/12/2014

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This beats all, an actual pet cemetery not far from central Paris. Dogs, cats, and even an occasional horse or rabbit, much beloved by their families, line a sweet and memorable park-like setting guaranteed to give your best friend his just due.

The Cimetière des Chiens d'Asnières is a sweet destination, one that will stay with you for a long time. Its most famous resident is Rin Tin Tin but some of the monuments are so over-the-top, you'll think it's a place where poets and great statesmen are laid to rest.

Can you think of a more fitting tribute for man's/woman's best friend?

One of the many pleasures you'll encounter is the very much alive cat population that wanders the grounds. They seem to be the welcoming committee and noticeably pose on top of cat memorials. I never saw one cat grace a single dog memorial. Coincidence or sinister plot?

Visiting Grand-mere's Resting Place?

Entrance Fit for a King

Rin Tin Tin Rests Here

Play Ball! Yes, that's what you're seeing -- a monument to a tennis ball loving hound. R.I.P.

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42 Restaurants in 14 Days

6/10/2014

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42 restaurants in 14 days! You're right, it can't be done.

But that's how many restaurants I had meticulously listed (including address, days closed, and nearest Metro) for my two-week trip to Paris last Fall.

It's not that I'm completely whacko, I just enjoy my bistros, always looking for the next great taste. Delicious food, enjoyable surroundings, and the art of dining are all reasons we have come to expect the best when planning our next lunch or dinner in our favorite foodie city.

By the way, that's a heavenly cassoulet about to be served from a deluxe copper pot. Two HUGE bowls and we only ordered (and paid) for one serving at the Auberge des Pyrénées Cévennes.

Hungry yet?

Would you prefer something a little lighter than a cassoulet?

How does this appetizer from La Table d'Eugene look to you? That's a heavenly watermelon sorbet in the center surrounded by all things too good to be true......

In Paris, your taste buds get a workout morning, noon and night.

As Julia Child once said,
"Everything in moderation .....
including moderation."

Check please!

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Why Write Another Blog About Paris?

6/9/2014

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I grew up in a small town in Illinois (Kewanee -- Go Boilermakers!) with an appreciation of all things Paris. When I was just 11, my parents sent me (kicking and screaming) on a solo trip to Paris for the entire summer vacation between 5th and 6th grade. I had never before met my Aunt Ginette, Uncle Robert or cousin Florence but they embraced their little American and gave me my first taste of la vie francaise. My memories of that sweet summer started a lifetime of pursuing, plotting and stealing the means to get back to Paris.

Lucky to be married to a fellow travel nut, my husband Gary and I have made countless trips to France and beyond. We've had the good fortune to include our daughter Sara from time to time as well as sister Jackie, brother Eric and their spectacular families.

Travel is not easy. Planning is essential. But, mapping out a basic itinerary is half the fun of the trip. I start planning my next journey the minute I take the dirty laundry out of my suitcase. You don't have to be a millionaire to have a good time in Europe, not even when you're planning a trip to one of its most expensive cities.

A few hints:
Don't break the bank. Assume it's not going to be your one and only trip of a lifetime.

Read Rick Steves Guidebooks from cover to cover so you learn how to bank, what to pack and how to avoid long museum lines.

Read blogs, articles, books. Watch movies. DREAM!

Remember, just like Mia, you can't please everyone all the time so make sure to please yourself and smile a lot. An open mind is the key to getting the most out of your trip. If you like to walk and your mate doesn't, deposit him in a cafe or sports bar while you take a hike. If he insists being chained at the hip the entire trip and brings you down, leave him at home next time. If your best friend decides to stay out too late and gets drunk every night, get some shut eye so you can start out bright and early the next morning without her. Travel is a compromise but if you expect to have fun, you will. PUSH BACK!

Final words: Laugh, eat too much, talk to people. Take your time, don't rush from one place to the next. Be respectful of their country and customs (no loud voices, please) and learn a few basic words of their language. Most important, practice makes perfect so do it again and again.