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Divine Inspiration in Southern France

8/28/2015

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There we were.
  Wrapped in an idyllic sun-dappled courtyard, sipping wine and exchanging smug,
aren't-we-so-smart smiles with the lucky few sitting nearby.
  It was one of those perfect little moments you dream about in Provence.
Except that it wasn't Provence.
What????

Here's how it started.
We were on a special two-week leg of our trip.
  Our mission, our destiny -- Enjoy a little taste of the good life in Provence.
Absorbing la vie en rose in Avignon was non-stop terrific.
  We were hell-bent to soak up every
microscopic detail of the Pope's legacy in Provence.

We already knew a bit of the history.
In 1309, Pope Clement V moved out of the Vatican lock stock & barrel
into new digs in Avignon, a period of time known as The Avignon Papacy.
  Before long, the papal court outgrew the castle and began the expansion
across the Rhone to a more graceful, quieter community, a reward
  granted to the privileged, hard working cardinals and church lieutenants.
  A fitting bonus for Loyal Friends of the Pope.

  So that's exactly where we found ourselves, mid-dream, leaving Provence
for the day and broadening our experience with Avignon's next-door-neighbor.

Much like the medieval Pope posse, we crossed the Rhone River
from our vibrant city digs in Avignon to the kinder, gentler
sister-in-pope-lore village of Villeneuve-les-Avignon.
  Just like that, from Provence to Languedoc.
  And what a good decision that was.

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A Provence Pause was just what the doctor ordered.
Our whirlwind tour of the historic, commercial and
  lively hub of Avignon had left us a bit breathless.
It was time to slow down and take a slow
meander through wine-soaked Languedoc.

True, there's no such thing as too much Provence.
  But in our case, we had climbed, poked and eaten our way through
  bustling Avignon, by now having exhausted most of our reserves.
  Our appetite for big crowds, city noise and
bursting-at-the-seams restaurants was beginning to contract.

So the thought of a little hilltop fortress on the other side of
the river sounded like a good plan.
After all, hadn't the Pontiff come to the same conclusion when
he moved his band of brothers to Villeneuve-les-Avignon?

  Villeneuve -- meaning new city -- was a good idea.
  Quiet.  No crowds.  Historic.
  Located in one of our favorite regions, the legendary Languedoc. 

One step into V-les-A and you'll feel like you're in a time warp.
  Shady squares, a hilltop fort & abbey, an unforgettable monastery,
it's the perfect setting for anyone who searches out little-known
places -- with the bonus of medieval ambiance and fresh air to spare.

After a fairly short walk uphill from the bus stop to Fort Saint-André,
we discovered a 14th century fortress that offers perfect views
of Avignon across the beautiful Rhone.
  Powerful defensive walls and towers remind you of those perilous times,
  an age when The Black Death was the only scourge
able to penetrate a fortification built with Church muscle.

The abbey and adjoining gardens are splendid beyond words.
  A haven, a refuge, an escape from the world .... just what we were looking for.
Those medieval monks must have been thrilled
to escape the cramped papal city across the way.

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Purposely taking the long way around town, we found another religious refuge.
Stopping along the way to admire local homes of character
and flower-filled bed & breakfast escapes, we set our sights on
the stunning Chartreuse Notre-Dame-du-val-de-Bénédiction.
  Still no traffic, no crowds, just blue skies giving birth to a light so divine,
surely it's the same luster that influenced the painters we all know by name. 

La Chartreuse du Val-de-Bénédiction is a 14th century monastery founded by
Pope Innocent VI, whose own tomb has survived the sands of time and revolution.
  It boasts three cloisters, forty cells and a chapel enveloped in
frescoes by Matteo Giovannetti,
the same artist who gorgeously colored the Palace of the Popes in Avignon.

  The sum of its parts is breathtaking.
If that's not enough, the estate also serves as a civic arts center, playing
  host to a myriad of artistic ventures such as local theater and writing workshops.
  A slow walk around the huge estate provides a snapshot
into the simplicity of life among the Carthusian monks
who called this fabulous place home.
Little nooks & crannies sprinkled high & low keep you enthralled while
   you inhale the perfume and absorb the tranquility of the flourishing gardens.
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And then it hit me. 
The real reason for our visit to Villeneuve-les-Avignon: 
Lunch!
Wine-soaked therapy. 

After spending a few hours immersed in the fascinating history of
this remarkable town, we were ready for some down time. 
We practically fell into the waiting arms of the first bistro we passed. 
Le Bistrot du Moulin appealed to all five of our senses
the moment we entered its pretty courtyard.

We knew we were in good hands.
  Sitting outside for a long french lunch is the real reason
we come to France year after year.
  And I promise you, it's not all about the food and wine.
It's about eating in theater -- as I call it --- The French Way.

A flower-filled terrace with just a touch of sun.
  Beautiful table settings.
  A classic menu with a few inventive touches.
  Fresh ingredients and knowledgeable wait staff.
  And more wine.

Slowly we savored the moment, bite by bite, sip by sip. 
 Bistrot du Moulin did not disappoint.
  Classy but not pretentious, it offered a casually elegant lunch
in a gorgeous garden setting.
  Olives trees, fresh flowers and a huge dessert table.
And did I mention wine?

After satisfying our basic instincts, we checked out their on-site gift shop.
   Moulin a Huile de la Chartreuse specializes in locally produced olive oil
and a nice assortment of specialties like vinegar, tapendade, and soaps.
Delightful stop, energy restored.  
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Yes, Villeneuve-les-Avignon satisfied our every thirst.
It was a good reminder, too.
When the wanderer in you runs out of gas, it's time to find relief.

Don't waste your time playing shoulda coulda woulda.
  Villeneuve-les-Avignon wasn't better than its princely cousin across the river.
  It was just different.
  A testament to the pause button,
a stop to smell the roses .... and the olive oil ..... and the wine ....

No need for regrets, we had found one more reason to return
to this blessed (by the Pope no less) land of good and plenty.
Whether you journey to Provence, Languedoc or any other storybook
  region in beautiful France, you're sure to find your Happy Place.
Match exhilaration with well-being and you've got it made.

Happy Travels!

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Napoleon Rules

8/20/2015

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Media personality, politician, ruthless property magnate, narcissistic self-promoter.  No, I'm not talking about Donald Trump.
  I'm referring to the one-man-reality-show best know as Napoleon. 
As in Bonaparte -- the self-crowned emperor of France.
 
Love him or loathe him, one thing's for sure, Napoleon still makes waves in Paris.
  A transformational leader of men, this 19th century self-proclaimed Caesar
remains in vogue even in the city that loves to hate their political leaders ...
I don't normally go for the tyrannical type but must admit to a lifetime
  fondness for the imposing little corporal-turned-emperor.

And this is why I love searching out Paris for all-things-Napoleon.
Of course, we know where to look for him in the usual places --
iconic monuments dripping with Gallic glory such as
Les Invalides, La Madeleine and the Arc de Triomphe.

But it pays to look a bit further.
  Napoleon's footprint is all around Paris, often in unexpected
and charming corners of the great city he once loved and legislated. 

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Egypt in Paris?
  That's Paris for you; expect the unexpected.
The triumphant Fontaine du Palmier is a watery spectacle
that defines the conquering hero's p.r. agenda.
Residing on lively Place du Châtelet, the palm fountain offers a perfect
  refuge to contemplate Napoleon's victories around the globe, underscoring
   his much ballyhooed free-for-all at the Battle of the Pyramids.

  Just as he and his troops enjoyed decisive victories in far-away lands
such as Marengo, Lodi and Danzig, the Fontaine du Palmier
thumps its mighty chest in one of the most central locations in Paris.
  And if you've ever been to Place du Châtelet,
you know it's a destination that sometimes morphs into a
  napoleonic-sized brigade of diverse faces, both young & old.
 
Completed in 1808 -- minus the sexy sphinxes --
the fountain initially had a very practical purpose.
Napoleon's nuts-and-bolts genius included more than just winning wars.
  He knew he needed to win at home first.
The home campaign included raising community standards.
Providing fresh water for the neighborhood is as utilitarian as it gets. 
The Boss racked up points with streetwise efficiency, pairing
 marketing (celebrating military successes) side by side
with civil upgrades all in one smooth move. 

The first thing you're likely to notice is the statue of the goddess
Victory* standing in all her glory atop the column.
  She stood as a constant reminder of what France was fighting for.
  At the base of the column, look for four more lovely
ladies -- Vigilance, Justice, Strength and Prudence.
  Much later, as part of Barron Haussmann's revitalized Paris blueprint,
the fountain was moved to its present location where new artists
remounted the victory column and added the fan-favorite sphinxes.
  The body of a lion and the head of a man, an apt symbol perhaps
for the cunning leader that made France a world power.
*you may recognize Victory from her other Paris home, The Musée Carnavalet.

Fontaine du Palmier's location is as central as you can get in Paris.
Flanked by two different theaters, it's just steps away from
Le Zimmer, a historic brasserie established in 1896.
  Fun and funky, it's the perfect venue to raise your glass
in a salute to Napoleon's Paris.

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Rue de Rivoli isn't just about trendy boutiques, palatial hotels and first-class dining.
Famously jam-packed with tourists, these days you may wish
you could unleash a division of Napoleon's troops just to help
elbow your way through the crowds.

The famous Rivoli pedestrian way is named for one of Napoleon's
most celebrated triumphs, The Battle of Rivoli.
When Napoleon secured a smashing victory against the invincible
Austrian Army (note: Rivoli is in Italy, not Austria),
  the Master Manipulator's legend was forever sealed.
More than ever, he was able to shape the french narrative.
Post-battle, and for decades to come, Napoleon's influence extended
much further, framing Italy's own entangled history.
  It was 1797 and he was just 28 years old.

Under the beautiful arcades just across from the Tuileries,
it's fun to consider the legacy of the famous Corsican.
  Drop by Angelina's for a famous cup of chocolat chaud or,
if you find gold at the end of the rainbow, reserve a table
at Alain Ducasse's legendary restaurant in the Hotel Meurice.

Rue de Rivoli was extended all the way into the Marais years later,
under the guidance of Emperor Napoleon III. 

Whether you start your walk at the Concorde Metro or a few miles
up the road at the Saint-Paul stop, it's certain you'll 
enjoy the street that put the P in Paris.

Or perhaps it's the P in prevail --- which is really what Napoleon did best. 
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Rue de la Paix stakes its claim on Paris extravagance
and the world's most luxurious brands.
  Retail Therapy in the extreme, spoiled indulgence for the one percent.

Home to high end vendors like Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier,
Van Cleef & Arpels, Christofle & Lalique, rue de la Paix runs
straight through the heart of Paris's most opulent quarter.
  It sits first chair in the high stakes commerce corridor
that runs from the iconic Opera Garnier to Place Vendome.
 
At first named rue de Napoleon, this avenue over-delivers.
  The original name is a perfect fit.
Napoleon moved heaven & earth to drag mountains of riches from
  one conquered land to another, the city of Paris being the clear winner.
  Bonaparte wrote the book on the spoils of war.
Part pirate, part curator, Napoleon took advantage of untold treasure,
hauling in every hard-won nugget of wealth to fulfill his vision
of a better Paris, a richer France.

In the french adaptation of Monopoly, rue de la Paix stands in for
  Boardwalk -- the most expensive property on the American game board.
And who can forget, it's the same avenue that spoiled the most
over-indulged woman in the history of the written word.
  It was here that Rhett Butler purchased Scarlett O'Hara's
smart green bonnet in "Gone with the Wind".

So just like Scarlett, I hope you are able to have your Josephine moment.
Fill those shopping bags on rue de la Paix and promote the glory of France.
Tell them Napoleon sent you.

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No, this is not the Arc de Triomphe, the famous arch
that illuminates the top of the Champs-Elysées.

  This is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, a gorgeous curvy landmark
that stands midway between The Louvre and The Tuileries. 
Completed in 1808, the marbled gateway to the royal gardens
was built at the height of Napoleon's power.

  Though half the size of the more famous Arc de Triomphe at Étoile,
its enviable location and beauty makes it worth a visit on your Tour de Napoleon.
The emperor loved showboating his own accomplishments, it's true -- but was
also was shrewd enough to know when and how to gild the lily. 
The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel commemorates his victories and his
armies, paying tribute to hard-fought battles, troops and treaties.

  Originally, the Little General's prized booty -- the bronze horses "abducted"
from St. Mark's Basilica in Venice -- proudly pranced atop the magnificent arch. 
After Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo, France returned the priceless artifacts
in an attempt to make nice with the Austrian Empire.

A new sculpture was created in the name of peace.
Still today, Peace rides triumphantly in a chariot
with gilded Victories and a team of magnificent horses.
It's a striking piece of art befitting the prestige of a dignified nation.

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No need for political pundits, televised debates or endless poll-taking. 
When it comes to The City of Light,
Napoleon Bonaparte was and remains the Host with the Most.
  As a world venue, Paris owes a king-size merci to its
larger-than-life fairy godfather, Napoleon Bonaparte.

  And so do we.

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Starry Nights & Market Mornings

8/5/2015

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Routine:
"
regular, unvarying, habitual, unimaginative, or rote procedure".
Dictionary.com

  My everyday routine sometimes feels like a circus act.
  Day in, day out,  it's a juggling act ---
- part time ringmaster (at least in the laundry room),
- high-wire act (trying to age gracefully),
- chief lecturer (I'm really good at this),
- pitchman (promote regular home repairs and Paris escapades),
- juggler (what to make for dinner tonight) ....

  The Daily Grind.
In Paris, they refer to this as metro-boulot-dodo
suggesting the same old tedium of subway-work-sleep.
 I guess you can feel stale in every language.

That's why, when we actually get away,
  we totally axe the Barnum & Bailey routine. 
Count the money, pull up stakes and skedaddle. 
No to-do list, no emergencies, no boundaries.

 For me, the reward of a life well-lived embraces art and food.
  If there's one place in the world to find these gifts in abundance,
surely it's Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Saint-Rémy strikes a balance.
Art, history, food, wine.
  It's easy to say yes to long days and starry starry nights
filled with such blessings.
  Throw in some chocolate, a circuit of plane tree lined streets,
a bizarre wind and a famous predictor of world events ....
It a place to tune your inner piano with good vibrations and a fresh melody.

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Should you seek a new self-portrait, this little corner
of Provence is one helluva place to start your journey.
 
Vincent van Gogh's lifeblood is still front and center,
his own complex journey played out for all to see.
  I can't imagine the art world without this mysterious bearded man.
  His work bridges the gap between reality and fantasy,
much like his own complicated life.

I wasn't prepared for the emotion that bubbled up inside when I first entered the hallowed wooded walkway that leads to van Gogh's asylum-atelier.
  Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, still operating as a psychiatric hospital,
bears the spirit of the van Gogh legend.
  My eyes teared up as I slowly walked past the same overgrown gardens that
once upon a time inspired some of his most recognized paintings.
  Upon entering the artist's spartan bedroom, I couldn't believe my eyes.
  It was a painting -- his painting that we know so well.
  I could feel the melancholy, re-live his pain and imagined
how it would feel to be so totally isolated.
Though not allowed to paint in his bedroom (the staff set up
his easel and paints downstairs), it's said that the magnificent
"Starry Night" was his impression of the view from his room.
  I longed to stay until the stars came out.

Van Gogh entered the psychiatric shelter in May of 1889.
  Hoping to battle his demons, he sought refuge from both his physical and mental disorders, keenly aware that cutting one's ear off was not in the normal range.  Suffering from bouts of depression and a form of epilepsy,  it was here,
in the monastery-turned-mental-hospital that he created
mountains of masterpieces, many of which are thought to be his best work.

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One of the main reasons I've always wanted to visit Saint-Rémy is
  to immerse myself in Vincent van Gogh's fascinating and lasting legacy. 

  What an emotional roller-coaster it must have been.
  Energy and confidence vs. isolation and frustration.
  Light and shade mixed with melancholy and creativity. 
Roses, irises, butterflies, poppies, cypress trees, fields of wheat. 
Mother Nature gives and takes as an artist's soul swells and constricts.
  Surrounded by the beautiful Alpilles mountain range
  while confined to a hospital filled with mental patients.
 
Did Vincent van Gogh find some kind of balance and harmony here?
He certainly painted with abandon, producing some 140 canvases in one short year.  Unfortunately, knowing the end of his story -- the suicide barely a 
year later, we have to conclude any peace he found quickly faded
  after leaving safe harbor in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

But what a legacy.
  Elizabeth Taylor owned the oil "View of the Asylum and Chapel of Saint-Rémy". 
It sold at auction following her death for nearly sixteen million dollars.  Countless coffee mugs, t-shirts and tatoos still exploit the great man's genius.
  If he lived today, no doubt van Gogh would have his own signature perfume
and perhaps a sports franchise or two.
  Come to think of it, there is a perfume named after him .....

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Still today, Saint-Paul-de-Mausole's patients are moved to create their own work, perhaps inspired by van Gogh's artistic vision.
In my world, food is also art.
  Saint-Rémy's Wednesday market is a stunner,
the centerpiece of any trip to southern France.
The energy here is pure performance art -- blue skies and
pastel shuttered houses make for the best theater you've ever seen.

  I wanted to eat EVERYTHING. 
But first, In my market frenzy, I made a dash to film the whole extraordinary
  scene so I could run home and show it to every grocer in my city and shout,
"See, this is what escarole SHOULD look like --
and how about these leeks, can you see, they're ALIVE with personality --
imagine this, an apricot loaded with something called FLAVOR ..."

  A nibble here (local olive paste)
and a whiff there (honest-to-goodness chevre)
and I finally came to the conclusion I should just be happy TODAY.

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This is a virtuous market.
  The escarole so green, the strawberries plump and precocious ...
today at least, I'd probably choose asparagus over ice cream.

There are plenty of other temptations, too, -- local arts & crafts as well as
beautiful textiles and sachets filled with the local lavender. 
But I prefer to drool over the incalculable artistry of the food -- GENUINE FOOD --
as it's bought and sold the same way your grandma probably shopped. 
Charcuterie, spices, olives, roasted chickens, lavender honey,
fig jam, olive oil and fruit confit ....
There's no better place to revive yourself both body and soul.

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Saint-Rémy-de-Provence has bragging rights to
local son Nostradamus, the famous seer born in 1503.
His predictions have been both feted and challenged over the years.
  Did he really predict all those awful events?
  I have no earthly idea but I do enjoy a good mystery.

Perhaps his "vision" came in on the legendary mistral,
the forceful wind that swoops down from the Alps.
I've always wanted to experience this wind and just like the saying goes,
be careful what you wish for.
Luckily, the May mistral was warm for I doubt I could survive
a winter wind that blows that hard. 
On a perfectly bright & sunny summer day, the mistral appeared suddenly
in late afternoon, whipping everything (including me) in its path.
  It was wild -- but not a storm -- as the sky was crystal clear.
This mistral will definitely throw shade to your activity.
The locals just live with it and the mood swings it
allegedly triggers whenever it lasts for days on end.
  We were lucky. 
It lasted just long enough to experience the wonder & the aggravation,
leaving as suddenly as it arrived.

After a day or two of the mistral, it's easy to find a few places to console yourself.
  Joël Durand is a chocolatier who concocts the best cocoa magic with
  combinations of intriguing ingredients such as lavender, violet and anise.
  Memorize his ambrosial address: 3 Blvd Victor Hugo

Or, if you can never get enough of the sweet stuff, head to
Lilamand Confiseur, founded in 1866, purveyor of candied fruits,
calissons and syrups guaranteed to wake up your tastebuds in a jiffy.

Recollections of wonderful meals -- aioli and veggies, colorful salads,
lamb shanks and fruit confit -- will keep us sated for years to come.
  Our very favorite memory though, is surely the sweet people we
encountered and the little kindnesses extended along the way.
  Our host (we rented a historical house for a week) welcomed us with
freshly picked heirloom tomatoes & cherries, a true taste of the Provence sun.
  He and his wife, ever generous with their smiles and a desire to please,
  bid us a warm au revoir with even more goodies as we sadly made our exit.

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In Provence, every salad is a work of art.
  Fresh, colorful, priceless. 

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The Nostradamus Fountain
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Life balance is really about just doing what you really love.
Don't stay stuck in the Lost & Found.
Forget the next big thing.  Do your own thing.
  Whether you love van Gogh, stinky cheese, little french villages
or Elvis painted on velvet,
invest in yourself and lean in to your good vibrations.

Starry Nights and Market Mornings.
  That's what I call a Masterpiece.

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Our home sweet home in Saint-Remy-de-Provence
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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