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Where Art, Food & History Embrace

1/27/2018

6 Comments

 
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So many of our Paris memories are focused on the joys of the table.
  Just ask anyone who has spent at least a few days here. 
You'll hear sighs of pleasure as they reminisce
about luscious platters bearing the goodness of France.
From foie gras to fromage, these reflections bring back
some of the Paris souvenirs we cherish most.

  Yet consider this.
  There's another genre of Paris indulgence just as gloriously
unforgettable as any you have ever devoured -- and
it's as far from the dinner table as you can get.

The care and feeding of our appetite for art
is as certain as the sun rising in the east.
  With an aptitude for artistic creation, Paris perpetually spoils us
with its steady parade of world class riches.
This is a city where art shines equally well in museums,
 on the street, even in the cafes of the most average Parisians.
Just look around, the city nourishes art lovers with their own version 
of chicken soup for the soul -- no need for a bowl or a spoon.
It's an emotion filled feast served up warm and delicious
 in the form of a sketch, a sculpture, or a concept.
​So get your artistic soul to Paris and get a belly full.
​Feed your imagination with every step you take. 

​"The chief danger about Paris is that it's such a strong stimulant."
​
T.S. Eliot, British poet/playwright/critic
​
​
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But where and how did art become the bread and butter of Paris? 

​Like so many things we see today in France,
this world-class art capital had royal beginnings.
​Enthusiasm for the arts began at court*.
  The crown's lavish court lifestyle breathed in paintings and sculpture
as if its very existence depended on it.
  Think about it, what would King Francois I be without his 
devotion to the artists of the Italian Renaissance?
  And can you dare imagine the Sun King without passion
​for his own royal portraiture?

*prehistoric paintings of Lascaux notwithstanding. 

​"Persons famous in the arts partake of the immortality
of princes, and are upon a footing with them."
​
Francois I, king of France 1515-1547
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"Learn the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist."
Pablo Picasso

​Even the greatest painters and sculptors had to start somewhere, so many
went to art school for a formal  -- albeit conservative -- education.
The grand-daddy and best known is the Ecole des Beaux Arts -- now
formally called Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts.
 Highly respected, it remains a virtual monument
to many of the world's leading artists.

But long before the school we now know emerged,
the Academie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture was born,
founded in 1648 by Cardinal Mazarin, first minister of France.
  His boss, King Louis XIV, needed a steady supply of talent to 
fulfill his artistic vision of Versailles.
Government controlled, the academy harnessed its disciples with  
​precise regulations that conformed to exact mandates governing
​ painting, sculpture, architecture and even gem cutting.

​Students competed day and night, expected to conform to artistic
"norms" -- dignified, well-recognized classical themes and structure.
​Part of the curriculum included setting the standard for these artist wannabes.
Students had to submit their work to The Salon -- an exhibition
of approved art -- where they strove to win official acceptance
and endorsement into the "old guard" of the art community.
​This was one of the few "tickets" to graduate from starving artist
​ to a possible date with immortality.
​If your work was accepted at The Salon, you were officially in the big leagues.

"Art is the signature of civilizations."
​Beverly Sills
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The Salon was an annual Paris exhibition, long considered
the place to be seen and -- fingers crossed -- accepted.
  Prestigious, dignified, stuffy and rules-driven, The Salon
helped buttoned-down artists break through anonymity and
into the real (read "paid") brotherhood of art.
​From 1748 to 1890, The Salon was the biggest art event in Paris.

  Budding talent from the Ecole des Beaux-Arts submitted their work
to a jury -- pretty much like today's reality shows.
"One day you're in, and the next day you're out"*....
It must have felt like a jury made up of Heidi Klum*,
Simon Cowell and Len Goodman -- ready to point a finger
and pull the rug out from under you....

In time, disgruntled pupils pushed back.
​They felt this pressure-cooker atmosphere hurt the creative process,
making the argument that much like history, art evolves.
In time, a bold few stepped forward, dropped out,
 and staked their claim on a new brand of art.

​"History has remembered the kings and the warriors because they destroyed;
​art has remembered the people, because they created."
​William Morris, British artist/poet/designer
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"Where did I learn to understand sculpture? In the woods by looking at the trees, along roads by observing the formation of clouds, in the studio by studying 
​the model, everywhere except in the schools."
Auguste Rodin

By 1874, a new group of artists, disdainfully labeled the Impressionists,
opened their own separate salon.
  Sick of rejection by hardball conservatives who insisted on "correct" art
technique, they clamored to move art in a new and progressive direction.
​The Impressionists mandate was simple:
​ Do the exact opposite of what was expected of them.
 
This passionate posse of visionaries concentrated increasingly on expression 
and mood, pushing the old norms of formal structure out the window.
​These giants of art were true pioneers, pushing a revolution of creativity
and generating a new type of renaissance that ushered in the modern age.

​So where did these revolutionaries go to further their education and inspiration?
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The Academie de la Grande Chaumiére was what
today we might call an "alternative school".
  Their philosophy, curriculum and teaching methods varied greatly
from the grand old establishment Ecole des Beaux Arts.
  And perhaps most important to many, their fees were
of the bargain basement variety compared to the old guard.
Hopeful artists didn't need wealth, just talent and persistence.

Free from the confines of tradition, the Academie de la Grande Chaumière
opened their doors in 1904 to the talent of many -- including a deluge
of immigrants who hoped to find fame and fortune in Paris. 
Officials made no bones about it -- they were a bare bones school",
promising little more than "no constraints, warmth in the winter and live models." 
It was built on creative spirit, perfect for those who clamored to break the rules.

  Students came from diverse backgrounds but shared many of the same problems.  Recall the 1985 movie "The Breakfast Club."
 The "jock", the "nerd", the "princess", the "weirdo", etc.  were all outcasts
​in detention hall -- but ended their standoff when they realized
​ they all had something in common.
​All right, that may be a stretch but I think the point is a group of
incompatible creative types can make one whale of a big impression....
 
​The school's roster of teachers was a who's who of notable talent: Ossip Zadkine, Antoine Bourdelle, Yves Brayer, Jean Metinger, Emile-Rene Menard & Martha Stetell.  Starving artists, even those already earning a few sous -- entered the somewhat shabby doors and found a welcoming home in the Montparnasse neighborhood. Over the years their roll-call included the likes of
Delacroix, Gauguin, Cezanne, Modigliani, Picasso...
​
How's that for a yearbook directory?
​
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Who knows how many "starving artists" this bistro served? Good food & wine - just across the street from the Academy.
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There are, of course, a great number of art schools in Paris.
  Just study a map and you'll soon see, art schools in Paris are kind of like
Walgreens in the U.S. -- it seems like one pops up on every other corner of the city...

​Even before Academie de la Grande Chaumière opened its doors,
Paris was the stage for another school that deserves special mention.
Academie Colarossi, founded in 1870, opened its doors to women,
allowing them access to nude models -- as in male nudes, fully-equipped.
Remarkably progressive for its time.
  Famous sculptress Camille Claudel attended classes as did Henry Moore,
Jean Lurcat, Paul Gauguin and Alphonse Mucha.

   Another competitor, Academie Julien, was famous for its liberal agenda,
boasting a long list of future notables, including many who broke down
​all the old barriers, barreling forward with the movement labelled
"avant-garde" and setting the table for the abstract art scene.


​"It took me four years to paint like Raphael, but a lifetime to paint like a child."
​Pablo Picasso 
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True, stopping by a relatively unknown school is not exactly at the top of our
 "A-list" -- but surely it's worth a detour to look for these unsung heroes in Paris.

​  I once booked a hotel on the rue de la Grande Chaumière for a brief visit
just so I could stay in the shadow of the Academie de la Grande Chaumière.
 Wallowing in the legacy of its legend, I peeked through the windows
and dawdled in the art store two doors down.
  Though art is not my forte*, I love slowly poking my way through its many forms.
  The grand cafes of Montparnasse were just around the corner where I imagined sipping a coffee -- really an absinthe -- with Modigliani at La Rotunde.... and
I'm pretty sure I dreamed up a spirited conversation with fellow art lovers Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas at Le Closerie des Lilas, just a few short blocks away.


​*If art is your strong suit, I strongly suggest you sign up for a few classes at Academie de la Grande Chaumiere,
​ the perfect inspiration for your own Paris original, still featuring live models!


​Art, food, history, Montparnasse -- it's all in a day's work in Paris....​
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"The preparation of good food is merely another expression
of art, of the joys of civilized living."
​Dione Lucas, first female graduate of the Cordon Bleu in Paris


There is little doubt that art, food and history embrace in Paris,
serving up one heck of a feast for us all.


And just like the mega-artists that walked the streets before you,
time and again in equal measure, the city will feed you -- body and soul.
​
  Chow down, art-lovers!
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6 Comments

Paris, a Shopping Love Story

1/6/2018

4 Comments

 
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Again and again we rejoice, it just can't get any better than this.
  And then it does.

  Of course, I'm referring to the city that never fails to surprise,
​the place novelist Henry James described as
"the greatest temple ever built to material joys and the lust of the eyes."
​Our beautiful Paris.


​  And yes, history and heritage aside, Paris is a commercial center,
​long considered one of the world's top drawer shopping capitals.
  You can be sure, the city's tornadic retail energy
​ is an unstoppable phenomenon, one of the many reasons
 there's no such thing as too much Paris.
 
​"He who contemplates the depths of Paris is seized in vertigo.
Noting is more fantastic.
Nothing is more tragic.
​ Nothing is more sublime."
​Victor Hugo 
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There's a reason we resolutely feel this familial bond each
time we cross the threshold of Paris.
  Most of us have an emotional relationship with the city itself.

  Its rich tapestry of art, architecture and history
help enrich our everyday, more mundane existence.
Amazingly, all it takes to bump into these gale force winds is a gentle little
wander through the streets and neighborhoods that frame every day Paris.
  This is no quick infatuation.
At the mere thought of Paris, I've indulged in a lifelong joyride,
always thirsting for more.
And Paris delivers -- well placed fireworks each time I turn a corner.

  Paris is not always cheerful yet always manages to
trigger a spark of life in anyone with a beating heart.
​Even on a day with threatening skies and harsh winds, at some point you'll
stop to marvel at the sky -- or the river -- or the sweet granny counting out
her change for the little yellow apples at the local Monoprix.

Whether you're a foodie, a glutton or a fussy eater, Paris has something for you.  Regardless if you're a follower of art nouveau or a fan
of futuristic design, Paris will steam up your glasses. 
Should you prefer sophisticated guided tours or careless and casual wanders,
​ Paris will set your heart on fire.
Yes, Paris is a banquet of choices from food experiences and wine tastings to local festivals, charming gardens, world-class museums and glorious galleries.
​
​
And shopping....

"I like my money right where I can see it.... hanging in my closet."
​
Carrie Bradshaw, Sex & the City
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Shopping in Paris is akin to breathing; it just happens -- like
the wind blowing through the trees.
  You won't need to think long and hard about where to go.
  Opportunity strikes in every neighborhood. 

Take the classic food emporium Fauchon.
  Parisians don't do anything on a small scale.
​Spectacular displays of edibles line up, voluptuous and
​inescapable to anyone with big eyes and a remote sense of taste. 
​
  Food fanatics swoon over exotic gift baskets that look too beautiful to open. 
Just across the square -- Place de la Madeleine to be exact -- is another
palace filled with luxury goods, offering no less than an historical pedigree.
​  Hédiard, once the stomping grounds of celebrities such as Charlie Chaplin
and Marlene Dietrich, began as a push cart back in 1850. 
Ferdinand Hédiard opened his premiere store on Place de la Madeleine
in 1870 where, in short order, it grew in fame and fortune. 
These days, even non-celebrities can search for the finest coffee beans and
exotic vinegars in the same shop that Colette once perused -- a Paris classic.  

​And the choices -- Whoo hoo!
  Shoes, jewelry, vintage fashion, antiques and so much more,
you'll never fail to find just the right gift for yourself or a loved one. 

Exhausted after a few hours of flashing your overworked credit card?
  Head for Lavinia, the virtual wine heaven located just
down the street from Fauchon and Hèdiard. 
The hard part is choosing from thousands of bottles from nearly every
corner of the world -- who knew you could buy wine from India and Japan? -- with
​ a wide choice of harvests -- from the most exclusive French brands
to the new and trendy organics.
  After a long day of shopping, Lavinia may be the best last purchase
of the day EVER, a reason to return to your Paris hideaway
​ for a chance to relax & rejoice.
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From department stores to flea markets, Paris is a jewel
you wear everyday like a family heirloom.
  It exceeds expectations even if you've been there twenty plus times.

​Window shopping -- "faire du lèche-vitrine" -- literally meaning
  "to lick the windows" -- is practically an Olympic sport in Paris.
And who can blame us?
  The storefront displays are practically works of art.

​Truly, I'm not your standard shopping enthusiast -- preferring to save
my euros for lunch --  but I do love to window shop in Paris.
Except when we're talking about one thing. 
When it comes to food, I scrutinize shop windows and restaurant 
menus as if I'm studying for the bar exam.
  And then of course, I'm ready to make that cash register ring.

​Of course, often my eyes are bigger than my wallet and my stomach
is bigger than all three so frequently I'll walk in for one thing
and walk out with far too much of a good thing.

"The odds of going to the store for a loaf of bread and coming out
with only a loaf of bread are three billion to one."
​Erma Bombeck 

​No doubt, she said this after a "quick" trip to Gerard Mulot
....
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Whether you're searching for high fashion apparel or ooey-gooey chocolates,
you'll find exactly what you're looking for on the streets of Paris. 
The diversity of neighborhoods is staggering.
Paris breaks the speed limit for variety and contrast,
perfect for a made-to-order shopping engagement.

​Fancy some colorful tribal fabric or exotic African snacks? 
Head over to the Goutte d'Or neighborhood near Montmartre.
  Often called "Little Africa", a stop here qualifies as a
surefire u-turn off the beaten path.

​Looking for the perfect coffee table book for your favorite artist in residence? 
Head straight for a museum store such as the Musée d'Orsay,
chock full of artsy page-turners and artist bios.

​Dreaming of a made-in-France copper pot to cook your oatmeal?
   E. Dehillerin is a dream-come-true where you're sure to
discover your inner Julia Child.
It's been around for nearly 200 years!

​Retail therapy can be edgy -- check out the cool t-shirt boutiques in the Marais; raunchy -- pull your hat down low and peruse the sexshops of Pigalle; or
downright civilized -- shop alongside Oprah and Gwyneth
 on avenue Montaigne and rue du Faubourg St. Honoré,
haute-couture mecca of the fashion world
.
 Not a boring box store in sight!
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 There aren't enough adjectives to describe the flea market experience -- marche
aux puces -- or heaven help us, the glorious department stores -- les grands magasins -- Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché, BHV....
And do yourself a favor, give the good ol' Monoprix a whirl; often compared 
to Target in the USA -- but so much more f-r-e-n-c-h and fabulous....

This begs the question,
​ HOW CAN WE FIT IT ALL IN?? 
​
​Instead of planning one momentous shopping day, I sneak it into
my schedule in-between all the other activity. 
A museum and a street market make for the perfect morning.
  A walk in the park and a bit of window shopping easily go hand-in-hand. 
And the best thing about diving into smaller bites of retail therapy is that
​as you uncover a new area rich in commercial enterprise, you can bet
your bottom dollar you'll also swim in a great choice of good eats.
​Personally, I'd choose a good cheese shop over a fashion house; besides,
​if you taste the good stuff, you'll feel as if you can get by
wearing only the smile on your face....
​  WINNING!

​I've barely touched on the countless opportunities
to feel like a high roller in Paris.
Sometimes we just need to fill that need to spoil ourselves.

  Don't worry, you won't need to hock your Harry Winston jewels to enjoy
  Paris with its countless opportunities to window shop or just poke around.
And you certainly won't need to spend the day teetering on
 Christian Louboutins to fit the part .... but do remember this: 
As you weave your way through the perfect Paris shopping experience,
​
"One shoe can change your life."
​Cinderella
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4 Comments
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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