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Homegrown Pleasures in Paris

12/21/2016

2 Comments

 
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Food -- a recurring theme in my Paris travels.
  And quite naturally a persistent daydream once I get home.

​But not all of my Paris food fantasies are restaurant driven.
It's a bit like pondering which came first: the chicken or the egg?
​Paris is so well known for its intoxicating restaurant scene that we tend
to lose sight of the where what and why it's such an enduring pleasure.
​Cracking this particular code may be where our favorite chefs begin their day.

​The daily market is essential to Paris life, particularly for
those of us who worship our daily feeding. 
Starting your day at a local market is a great way to
 launch your Paris food adventure.

There are many choices out there and most of us have our return trip favorites.
​But this time, my foodie radar took a different turn. 
Most of us realize it's always a good idea to branch out a bit on the
restaurant scene; likewise it makes sense to spread your wings
​ and discover a new market or two on your next Paris trip.
​And oh boy, did I make the right decision.
​I chose a marché that some of the best chefs in the city single out as a favorite.

"It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts
​ while eating a homegrown tomato."

Lewis Grizzard, American Humorist
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Welcome to
Marché President Wilson,
sometimes called Marché du Pont d'Alma. 
Every Wednesday and Friday, regular Parisians, chefs,
foodwriters and adventurous food lovers flock to this
one-of-a-kind food paradise in the 16th arrondissement.
 
​Now before you say the 16th is too out of the way for you, consider this.
  This part of the seizième curls up back to butt with the 7th, right in the heart
of the museum district* and within shouting distance of the Eiffel Tower.
  It's a metro ride away (Iéna or Alma-Marceau) from just about anywhere.

​The good stuff you expect -- vegetables, fruit, fish, meat, cheese,
flowers, olives, spices, baked goods -- all exceptional, all lovingly displayed by
vendors who are straightforward, ready to assist the admiring herd of hungry.
  Then there are the ready-to-eat stalls where you'll wish you had remembered
to pack your picnic utensils so you could dig in right here, right now.
Think paella, choucroute, quiche, and crepes.
​And oh, if you fancy a new sweater, you'll find it here, too,
 snuggled inbetween housewares and fresh pasta.

​Yes, Marché President Wilson has a lot going for it and may help you understand why going to market is such an important ritual in the daily life of a typical Parisian. 
If a roving market like this is set up only two days a week, why bother? 
Isn't is easier just to go to the market street down the block or a grocery chain?
​The pat response is yes, but doesn't begin to address what's sexy and so aesthetically pleasing about the fine art of this complex food culture.
 
​The orderly arrangement and color-coded perfection of a green grocer's stall
invites new customers, certainly, but it's the quality of his produce
and expert advice that keeps them coming back again and again. 
Roving markets employ thousands of merchants around the city so consumers deduce if this one has been up and running successfully
​ since 1873 (!!), they're encouraged it's apt to be worth their time and money.

​
*Although all of Paris boasts its fair share of Paris museums, this quarter boasts some biggies such as Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, literally just a few streets away from the market.
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"Fish, to taste right, must swim three times -- in water, in butter, in wine."
Polish Proverb

​The day I visited, I must have needed my B and D vitamins because
I couldn't turn my eyes away from the fish and shellfish stalls. 
Row after row of scallops slept soundly in their gorgeous fan-shaped shells
 while mountains of oysters and mussels made me forget for a moment
that Paris is not a seaside resort.

  When thoughts of the sad little plastic wrapped poisson at home
ran through my head, I vowed never again
to buy fish of such pathetic old age and distant origin.
Next came the produce section where I realized I need to ixnay
the sorry looking fennel presented on my grocer's shelf
 stateside -- not to mention leeks, mushrooms and a whole lot more
shrinkwrapped, Monsanto-sprayed gobbledygook -- all of which pale
in comparison to the gorgeous green goods at this lovely market.

​You will do a happy dance when you discover what this marvelous
open-air market has to offer -- but it will also give you much to think about. 
Consider this, you can buy a gorgeous heirloom tomato from the same vendor
who services restaurant elite like Pierre Gagniere and Alain Ducasse.
   It's true, in a Parisian market like this, whether you're chef, king or commoner
you can expect to get the good stuff, the superior quality and sound vendor
advice as well as good karma for contributing to
sustainable farming and many locally grown foods.

  It makes you wonder if this is the reason for the bitterly fought French Revolution. 
Liberté égalité fraternité -- displayed under a
striped awning -- a delicious harvest of pure Paris magic.
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This produce stall reminds me of an artist's palette -- a gallery of good taste.
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Yes, bien sur, they'll offer you a taste if you ask nicely.
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Amazingly, even ugly root vegetables look good in a market like this.
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Outstanding wine at every day prices make for one happy shopping experience.
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This STREET FOOD will make you sing for your supper.
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I've always thought bringing home a bouquet of flowers
 is an effortless way to add a little joy to everyday life.
​At Marché President Wilson, whether you make the purchase or not,
you're sure to feel a sense of joie de vivre as you pass row after row of
colorful cuttings, their mismatched shape and delightful aroma
breathing new life into everyone's morning. 

​Of course, if you ask the merchant a few stalls away what's prettier than a
rose-colored bloom, he'll point -- proud as a peacock -- to his chickens,
the ultra special Poulet de Bresse variety that Parisians in the know look for. 

​And this is why we all fall in love with France.
  Roses and chickens, thoughtfully displayed, doted on in equal measure
for the pleasure of all lucky enough to plug into a french market.
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So the next time you sit down to feast at one of your favorite Parisian restaurants, take a moment to think about where they source their food. 
It's important to find a eatery with a talented chef, sure, but it's equally critical
 that the boss is thoughtful when procuring their bread and butter.

  Such mindfulness for food origin shows up in every bite you take.

No need to call your financial advisor this year. 
When it comes to this particular market, I have infinite optimism. 
At Marché President Wilson, the odds are always in our favor.

​Bon Appetit!
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2 Comments

Making Up Lost Time in Dijon

12/9/2016

3 Comments

 
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A bit more than a decade ago, my husband and I traveled to Burgundy
dreaming of wine, escargot and lazy afternoons  
wrapped up in idyllic rolling hills of gold.
 Diving headfirst into the famously full-flavored region, we intended
to save a little time for the region's iconic capital, the city of Dijon.
  But before long, swayed by the flowing crimson pleasures
of the wine road, we never made it to the city christened
elegant, lively, and endlessly appealing.

​Since then, I've studied and drooled over the gluttenous
and cultural glories of this golden city and decided it was high time
to make up for that long ago oversight. 

​Yes, Dijon was worth the wait. 
 In fact, it's worth its weight in gold, the color we associate with
its richly adorned museums, age-old cathedrals and spicy mustard. 
 A walkable city, just big enough to make it agreeably easy 
​to navigate, you'll stumble on a few new favorites in no time.
Dijon will win you over with its unmistakable and stress-free personality.
​Even if you jealously guard your valuable travel time,
you'll soon wonder why you didn't come sooner.

  Combine new tastes and cultural enlightenment in one easy trip and you'll
​see why UNESCO named the historic core of Dijon a World Heritage Site.
Trust me on this one, if you love France, you will adore Dijon.


​"Know the value of time.
Snatch, seize, and enjoy every minute of it."

Lord Chesterfield, British Statesman & Traveler  
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At Maison Millière, lunch is twice as good when served in an historical setting dating back 5 centuries!
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This was just the appetizer - - lovely & fresh, the only way they serve it at DZ'Envies!
French cuisine is always a slam-dunk fan favorite, arguably the
 paramount reason many of us visit France year after year.
Key to a memorable food town is how well it manages to promote
its own traditions while promoting new flavors and experiences. 
Dijon does both very well.
  Vin (wine) and nourriture (food), two of the best words in the french language,
are touchstones of the Burgundy region; Dijon does justice to both. 

​Case in point, we enjoyed two vastly different restaurants while visiting -- one deemed "au courant", the other, traditional and "old school."

  DZ'Envies is a contemporary casual bistro
that puts an appealing spin on Burgundian cuisine.
  Just steps away from Les Halles marketplace,
the popular restaurant serves up fantastic plates based on what's seasonal,
fresh and irresistible to both the eyes and tastebuds.

  Just a few blocks away, celebrated Maison Millière offers classic cuisine
inside the walls of a house constructed in 1483.
A protected historical treasure, Maison Millière is not only noted
for its Burgundian menu but for its medieval ambience, setting the mood
for Gérard Depardieu's 1990 film "Cyrano de Bergerac".
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Fundamental to an unforgettable French experience is a clear-cut
destination that ties history and art together in one amazing encounter.
Here, that place is Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon, a masterpiece
of a museum housed in the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. 
Among the most important and influential forces in medieval Europe,
Dijon's Dukes were great patrons of the arts, their lavish spending now consummated inside the museum's prestigious walls. 

​You'll think you're in Paris or some other European capital
when you visit this world class fine arts center, it's that good.

The Tombs of the Dukes are impressive beyond words, the
towering figures of Philippe le Hardi (Philip the Bold) and Jean sans Peur
(John the Fearless) flanked by adoring angels and held up to
heavenly glory by a remarkable sculpted procession of monks. 
 Chiseled from marble and alabaster, these sculptures will stop you cold, 
intensely impressive as anything you'd find in Florence or Rome.

​Other corners of the museum include paintings ranging from Titian and Rubens
to Monet, Sisley and Braque with special TLC bestowed on sculpture
by native son Francois Rude (you know him from his tour-de-force
relief Departure of the Volunteers on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris).
​The palace is also home to Dijon's city hall as well as the ducal kitchen -- to
our solemn disappointment -- closed on the day we visited.
​
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Art manages to compete with wine in Dijon, a city
hemmed in by some of the best vineyards in France.   
​Luckily, you won't have to choose between them.
​You'll drink up both in equal measure.
 
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Even if you think you're not a fan of religious art,
​ you'll be won over by these incredible medieval masterpieces.
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Dijon's Musée des Beaux-Arts is a fitting resting place
for the great Dukes of Burgundy.
​

 Please note, in reverence for the historical importance of the Dukes of Burgundy,
 I feverishly continue to refer to this region as Burgundy instead of its new
administrative name, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté -- which to my ear sounds
more like a law firm than a long venerated player in world civilization.
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Food food food, there's a lip-licking tease of delights in Dijon.
​Patisseries, boulangeries, boucheries, epiceries, caves a vins...
Who can compete with the food and wine of Burgundy?

Dijon celebrates an annual gastronomic fair every November,
said to be one of the most distinguished in all of France. 
​Imagine two whole weeks of delicious fun,
 starring the glorious cuisine of France.
 Attracting over 200,000 hungry foodies, fair-goers enthusiastically stand
​shoulder to shoulder to sample delicious bites of local delicacies.
​The International Gastronomy Fair has been a point of pride
on France's famed culinary resumé for some 88 years.

Count me in!
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Historic Maison Millière is stunning, both inside and out.
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There's always someone on hand to offer careful advice on wine. A votre santé!
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Dijon's marketplace isn't just under its famous iron roof --- it surrounds the building and then some!
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 Les Halles, Dijon's unmissable food market,
should be on everyone's itinerary. 

I always head straight to the cheese stalls first, seafood second,
both making me green with envy over the incredible array on offer.
  Dreaming up what to make for dinner (impossible since I'm staying in a hotel!),
I have visions of a giant gougères -- Dijon's famed choux pastry filled with cheese -- paired to a main of coq au vin -- or perhaps oeufs en meurette, a Burgundian dish of eggs poached in red wine.....
 
​If you're lucky, you'll get to sample some of Dijon's famous pain d'epices
as you stop to admire the iron framework of the enthralling food hall. 
Look familiar?  Well, it should.
  It was designed by the city's most famous son Gustave Eiffel, born here in 1832.
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 What would Dijon be without its famous mustard?

  For a closer look, please refer to my article

dijon-mustard-crown-jewel-of-condiments.html 
Hope you have already sampled the  pleasures of Dijon's most iconic taste
and if you haven't, make sure to stop at Maison Maille
​ for the chance to taste dozens of tempting gourmet flavors.

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There are so many things to see and do in Dijon,
it's impossible to mention them all in one little post.
  My advice is to take your time and walk slowly around the city's historic core.
  You'll absorb incredible architecture, an assortment of churches,
shopping venues and diverse choice of museums. 

And when you are just too pooped to keep on trucking,
that's the time to sit down and enjoy a kir or one of the famous local wines.

​I realize most folks immediately think of lush reds when
they hear the name Burgundy and who can deny the
 staggering pleasures of a great Pinot Noir Grand Cru?
  But I'd like to remind you of one of my favorite whites born just miles from the city.  Aligoté is a white whose toasty character has been described
as "warm croissant" by wine lovers in the know. 
That's plenty good enough for me -- and it's particularly delicious
when used as the white counterpoint to blackcurrent liqueur in
​ Dijon's hometown hero, the afore-mentioned kir.
 
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Colorful tiles in dazzling geometrical patterns decorate many roofs in dazzling Dijon.
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Check out The Owl Trail (le Parcours de la Chouette),
a keynote walk past the best & brightest of Dijon.
  If you enjoy self-guided tours, you'll love this one -- just look for the
brass plaques thoughtfully arranged in the sidewalks and streets
just in front of the designated sites.

​Make sure to look for the ancient owl carved into the side of Eglise Notre Dame.  Rub the local good luck charm with your left hand and make a wish.
  I'm confident my wish will come true; I just want to return again and again....
 
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If you love Dijon's hometown favorite aperitif, "un kir" -- made of creme de cassis
and local white wine -- why not sample a delicious taste of cassis
(blackcurrant) candy from Mulot & Petitjean, another hometown favorite. 
It's a charming store filled with goodies too good not to share
​ and these cute little tins travel well.
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"The new year stands before us, like a chapter in a book, waiting to be written.
We can help write that story by setting goals."
Melody Beattie, American Self-Help Author

​Serious travelers understand how important it is to set goals.
  So if you've ever missed a chance to see Dijon or some other intriguing
corner of beautiful France, pick yourself back up and take aim.
 There's a light at the end of that tunnel and you can make your dream come true.

​If you enjoy fine arts, pedestrianized streets, medieval townhouses,
gargoyles and cobblestones (that's just the short list!) --- not to mention
 great wine & food -- you will surely fall in love with Dijon. 
Follow the The Yellow Brick --
oops,Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore...

Follow the OWL TRAIL.

May good fortune smile on you!
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3 Comments
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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