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Narbonne - Beyond the Sea

9/15/2016

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I love a good surprise and every so often, I'm caught off-balance by the
 original approach communities take when presenting themselves to the world.
  This is the kind of suspense I live for -- a bolt from the blue
reminder that deep travel offers so much more than the
same-old-same-old snooze-fest of someone else's idea of fun.

  Surprise and  sheer wonder is just the tip of the iceberg in Narbonne, a
  homey small city nestled in the beautiful Corbières wine region of Languedoc.
Built by Rome in 118 BC, Narbonne's bits and pieces of antiquity make for
a fascinating day or two of discovery that you won't soon forget.
  Just enough marvels and cheerful character to keep you smiling.

  Narbonne's charm is greater than its beauty. 
I think this small city of about 50,000 is unfairly overlooked by
travelers because it doesn't have that postcard perfect
 look that many villages in the south of France command.
But don't worry, it more than makes up for that with a body
 of fascinating landmarks to match its warm and inviting community spirit.

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Best known as Julius Caesar's hand-picked refuge for his chosen few,
 Narbonne was built as a trading post along Rome's prized Via Domitia.  Astonishingly, still today you can stand on the very same road
Caesar's top brass paraded across in the town's central core.

Back in the day, Narbonne was wealthy and powerful,
a coastal city that prospered in large part due to its seaport. 
Even after the Romans left, this favored locale
was long admired for its wealth and prestige.
But over time, changing climate conditions and perhaps some bad karma
caused its harbor to silt up, resulting in disastrous afteraffects
for the once thriving Mediterranean merchant port. 
Their bad luck -- add in the plague as well -- is our good fortune since this once
mighty Roman colony is now the perfect setting to explore the
intriguing legacy of Narbonne's stretch as France's golden city in the sun.

For my money, The Horreum (terrible word, wonderful place)
is the best Roman remnant in Narbonne.
Though many guidebooks glide over it, it's a place of great fun. 
You're guided through an underground grain store -- a virtual little chamber of horrors if you're claustrophobic -- past wonderful carvings of bulls, horses,
chariots, and more -- steered by a knowledgeable guide.
  Our expert pointed out (in french) why the ancient pottery had different shapes--
thin, breathable earthenware for wine and flat bottomed vessels for olive oil.

  It was my first ever tour by flashlight.
  And though I wouldn't want to go looking down just any old dark
alleyway in Narbonne, it was a real pleasure and a lovely surprise
 to make our illuminated pilgrimage deep in the bowels of The Horreum.

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Like so many towns in France, the local market is a big hit with travelers.
  And this one didn't disappoint -- as a matter of fact, Les Halles is exceptional.

  Animated, colorful, traditional, this pavilion has been rocking Narbonne since 1901.  The wrought iron and sculpted stone facade is gorgeous,
a preview perhaps of the glories inside. 
 Here you'll discover another world of tempting delicacies -- fish and seafood of
every type, a city filled with meat & charcuterie -- beautiful & mysterious to the uninitiated -- and an assortment of fruits & vegetables that scream FRESH -- all
beautifully laid out to tickle your imagination as well as your appetite.

  You'll marvel at the big picture but stay to admire the minutiae of the assortment,
realizing how near you are to Carcassonne (cassoulet!) and french Catalan (tapas!).  And don't leave without sampling some of the local Corbières wine.
The customers and stall owners are cheerful and who can blame them.
Surrounded by dazzling flowers and exotic spices, this is a virtual 
Disney World for locally sourced products.

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The Canal de Robine is arguably Narbonne's prettiest place for a stroll.
If you've never heard of this lovely canal, you're not alone.
  Just 23 miles in length, the petite canal is overshadowed by its more famous sister,
 the Canal du Midi, together an acclaimed UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  It's a beautiful place, reason enough to make a stop here.
  The market is canal side and the rest of the city's riches easily reached by foot.

With 2500 years of culture, the city's small core offers a day of easy entertainment.
Narbonne's Archeology Museum contain reminders of its impressive past.
Mosaics, statues, sarcophagi (decorated stone coffins) and
 a wooden anchor recall the town's historically seaworthy yesteryear. 
Frescoes from a Gallo-Roman village are shown to great advantage
in their new 12th century home, the Palais Vieux.

The Art & History Museum is located in the 17th century
archbishop's apartments inside the Palais Neuf.
  Best known for its important collection of orientalist painting
and faience, it's worth a look.
I had to ask Professor Google exactly what orientalist painting was
because it's not (as you would think) works by Asian artists.
Orientalist is a style of painting from the 19th century, done by
western artists moved by exotic and sensual oriental influences
and popularized when Napoleon invaded Egypt.

Housed in a former church, the Musée Lapidaire is a perfect
quick stop to get stoned -- just kidding...
We're talking  grave stones here, as well as some
 fine remains from a 13th century Benedictine monastery. 
The 1300 massive blocks of stone are curiously decorated -- much
more interesting than they sound -- making up
one of the largest collections in all of Europe.

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Many people make the Narbonne circuit for one reason alone.
  The Cathedrale St-Just-et-St-Pasteur is an enormous must-see Gothic construction.  Although its gloriously tall interior contains some beautiful 14th-century stained glass, Aubusson tapestries and fantastic tombs, it's best known for being
two-thirds unfinished, a strange sight and utter surprise.

  Building began in 1272 when Narbonne was still powerful and wealthy but all manner of hell broke loose as the city's fortunes eventually dwindled.
  Add to that the unhappy fact that a section of the city wall required rebuilding
in order to complete the church's original plans and voila -- you have
one of the most interesting "mistakes" in all of France.
  The cathedral is so tall, you'll hurt your neck gazing at the
ceilings and church towers, all quite remarkable.
Besides, who doesn't love a Halloween-ready skeleton grinning from a real life tomb?

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Narbonne is the birthplace of legendary French singer/songwriter Charles Trenet.  With a charming voice and style, his songs rang true to the era,
a magic mixture of romance and mid-century nostalgia.
  If you've never heard his most famous tune, "La Mer", please give it
a listen -- newly popular again as "Beyond the sea" in American movie
  "Finding Nemo" -- though I'll admit to a special soft spot
for another Trenet favorite "Boum".
  Make yourself happy and give him a listen on YouTube.

At the time of our visit, I didn't realize you can visit his childhood home
so now I have a good excuse to return to this lovely city not quite on "La Mer".

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Don't miss The Horreum -- a great taste of Rome in France.
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Try to save a little time for a special stop about nine miles from Narbonne.
  The Abbey de Fontfroide is ready-made for a bit of virtuous reflection.
Contrast that with equal parts of unholy covetousness you'll succumb
to for the quiet but stunning countryside.

  You're required to take the guided tour but it's all worthwhile
even if you don't normally enjoy that sort of thing.
  The 13th century cloister is achingly beautiful and
the austere 12th century church impresses as well.
  World War I brought stained glass from ruined churches all around France
  now lovingly pieced together in gorgeous abstract designs.

The abbey was founded by the Benedictines, then given over to the
Cistercians who later promoted the whole Albigensian Crusade
nightmare that tore apart much of the region.
  Here today, there's love, not war and you'll be glad you stopped to admire
the beautiful roses and cypress trees as you contemplate the monks'
spartan quarters and nature's perfect, Tuscan-like surroundings.

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It's always a challenge to plan a trip to France,
where there are too many good stops to count. 
It pays to veer off the beaten path and take a chance
on a town often overlooked by the guidebooks.
  Narbonne is one of those places and we're glad we made the effort. 
I hope you do too! 

"I came, I saw, I conquered."
Julius Casesar

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Gladiators in Paradise  

7/11/2016

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Nimes lives on the edge -- the edge of Languedoc and Provence, that is. 
Southern France is swanky, a traveler's dream and
Nimes -- pronounced neem -- lives up to the promise. 
Bathed in exquisite light, Nimes' historic center is more Rome than Paris,
its palm trees framing a city filled with treasures dating back
to Caesar Augustus some two thousand years ago.

Yes, that's no typo, Nimes boasts architecture dating back 2,000 years.
Romans once ruled this city, making the geographically and physically
blessed strip of land a strategic stop on the road from Italy to Spain.

If you've ever wanted a do-over on any one vacation, you'll
understand why I say "if only" when I daydream about Nimes.
  We didn't stay long enough -- by a mile -- and yes,
it's definitely at the top of my short-list for a return visit.

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In a city known for gladiators and crocodiles,
Nimes is a lot more gentle than its famous mascots.
  It's flat out gorgeous, a treasure chest of dramatic contrasts,
with architecture straddling between the ancient and the modern. 

Ancient Nimes is the raison d'être for the nearby Pont du Gard,* the
 ingenious aqueduct designed to bring
healthy drinking water to this "new Rome".  


You'll be astonished to see the monumental framework Rome left behind
and how seamlessly city planners have blended it with the here and now.
  Long considered the best preserved Roman structure in the world,
  the jaw dropping Maison Carrée (built around 20 BC) stands just across
  from a contemporary art museum and a tangle of wide open café terraces.

Based on the Roman Temple of Apollo, picture this monument
as the heart and center of the city's Roman forum.
Today's walk of culture is likely to include British architect Norman Foster's
contemporary arts installation that meshes art with information technology.
These startling contrasts are just a fraction of what makes Nimes so unforgettable.


* for more information about the Pont du Gard, check out this blog link:
a-tale-of-two-bridges.html

"When in Rome, live as the Romans do; when elsewhere live as they live elsewhere."
Saint Ambrose, Italian Saint

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Conquest and human suffering.
  Violent confrontation.
  Fight to the death.
Sound like a typical day in your neighborhood?

I hope not -- but that's exactly what you'll discover deep in the heart of Nimes.
Luckily, these days, it comes under the label "theater of the mind".

The Arènes de Nimes (Nimes Amphitheater) is theater of a different kind.
  Whether you prefer Kirk Douglas' "Spartacus" or Russell Crowe's "Gladiator",
admit it, this is entertainment, a banquet of smashing superhero fantasy fun.
  We idolize our he-man warriors and super-villains, a truth
that hasn't changed in 2,000 years. 

Sex & Violence sells and I'm sure you'll enjoy what is considered to be
the world's best preserved Roman amphitheater.
  I've been to Rome and was well impressed by the world famous Colosseum.
Even at half capacity (Rome's 50,000 bloodthirsty spectators vs. Nimes' 24,000),
I'll put my money on Nimes' architecturally flawless arena any day of the week.
 
This is not a ruin. 
The Nimes Amphitheater is a working, active structure that has been
in use for nearly all 2,000 years of its existence.
When the empire fell and the stadium "games" went down in flames,
 the property was re-purposed as a fortress, later evolving into
a small village of 800 that included a chateau and two churches.

Even by today's standards of emotional dramatics, you'll
feel humbled by the history and severity of this spectacle.
No need to watch the next installment of "Hunger Games". 
Just come to Nimes and experience the turmoil, blow by blow.

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 The Arènes de Nimes dates back to 1 AD but feels like it just opened yesterday.  That's because the good people of Nimes
have kept the entertainment fresh and au courant.
It continues to host spectacular events ranging from bullfights and festivals
to rock concerts and over-the-top weddings.
I wonder what Caesar Augustus would think....

With two levels, sixty arches and 124 doors, the arena is truly a marvel. 
If only my home town stadium could decant the number of fans this
 theater routinely moves with ease; talk about good city planning!

Back to ancient history:
This is the place where you showed your face to boost your social status.
   Armed hunters killed wild beasts in the morning -- lions,
elephants, bears, whatever they could round up.
At noon they slaughtered condemned criminals and later
  brought out the big guns (sexy gladiators) in time for happy hour.

  Many of these fighters were slaves but others were glammed-up
warrior-contestants who lived (or died) to grow their star power.
  Rock stars of the day, the ladies loved them and pint-sized
 enthusiasts (kids) collected clay action figures idolizing them.
 Sort of a Marvel Comics Superheroes Universe.
 
It's an amazing stage, a shot of vitamins to bolster your imagination.
There are wonderful displays, too, where you'll see a mix of
  gladiator paraphernalia and the trappings of bullfighting, today's choice of combat. 
Swords, shields, and uniforms are beautifully exhibited; if you have any
imagination at all, you're in for a real taste of the "games" people play
.
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When you're ready to lighten up after all that bloodshed, head over to
the Jardins des Fontaines, Nimes' answer to the Garden of Eden. 
For truly, this is a garden that could only be made in heaven. 

Built on top of an ancient spring, the grounds feature classical statues
and urns, rock gardens, canals and pretty little bridges.
  The atmosphere is so gentle and peaceful,
you'll want to bottle it up and take it home.

  The ancient Temple of Diana is the oldest part of the garden and
manages to fit in beautifully with the mostly 18th century park design.
You'll feel it in your bones, this is a special place for the locals,
not just another tourist attraction.

"Where a man's heart is, there is his treasure also."
Saint Ambrose, Italian Saint

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Levis, anyone?
I'll bet you didn't know your favorite pair of skinny jeans
were birthed in the lovely town of Nimes.
  The André family broke down barriers in the world of textiles when they
discovered the advantages of a new sturdy material
which they called serge de Nimes.
  When Levi Strauss brought the novel product to the gold-miners in California,
the name de Nimes was condensed to denim.
  And the rest, my friends, is history.
  I wonder if Nimes has ever come between Brooke Shields and her Calvins?

Yes, Nimes is full of surprises.
  I couldn't image why a crocodile chained to a palm tree
was the symbol in their coat of arms.
  It's actually pretty simple.
  This, too, goes back to the glory days of the Roman Empire,
when the vanquishing Romans defeated Marc Antony & Cleopatra
in a battle that is remembered here to this day. 
You get a real bargain when you visit Nimes -- a bit of France,
a bit of Rome, a bit of Egypt and even Spain.
  That's the kind of travel magic we all look for.

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Nimes is most definitely a treasure that deserves a second and even a third look.
  Who wouldn't want to explore its walkable trip through history?
Get acquainted with a couple of local cafés on a warm summer evening
and delve into their notable cuisine and wine... heavenly.

Perhaps one day I'll re-discover Nimes through one of its famous festivals... find
the time to shop at the covered market... count all the crocodile
medallions... and buy a pair of gladiator sandals I'll never wear...
My wish list is long and growing.

I hope to experience it all.
More importantly, I want to experience it in the unhurried
manner of this part of France -- one day at a time.

Rome wasn't built in a day and a visit to Nimes certainly wasn't either.
Yes, you can count on it. 
When you go to Nimes, it won't be for the last time.
Let The Games Begin!

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Bonne chance!
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A Cab Ride to Remember

9/25/2015

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It started out innocently enough -- a cab ride with Jack Black.
  No, not THAT Jack Black -- amazingly, our driver was the spitting image
of the multi-faceted American actor/singer/comedian.
That happy coincidence should have foretold that this day would be
anything but ordinary for truly providence was shining down on us.

We were on a Canal du Midi adventure, piloting our own boat down a
beautiful stretch of the famous 17th century canal and as much as
we took great pleasure in the leisurely float, we landlubbers were
ready to get off the water and head for terra firma. 
We set off from Homps for the 10 mile taxi ride to Minerve,
a tiny but well-known Languedoc village that's always described
as "impenetrable" and "mysterious".

As he drove, our cabbie chatted with regional pride,
effusively gushing about the magic of la Montagne Noire,
surely "the most beautiful place in all of France".
He was poetic in his description of the Minervois wines and
cuisine, a guy clearly happy in both life and work.
Informative, eloquent, cheerful, his running commentary
offered assurance that we had, indeed, chosen the right place to visit.

Arriving at our destination, "Jack" refused to take our money,
promising to return late that afternoon for the ride back to the canal. 
I don't think it was the round-trip fare he was interested in, preferring
an airtight lock that required us to stay and give the village a proper tour.
 His "baby", his pride and joy, deserved a good long look --
and it didn't take long to prove him right.

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Minerve isn't listed on the esteemed Les Plus Beaux Villages de France for nothing.  It is strikingly beautiful, a mystical village, fortified and perched on a
picturesque canyon in the middle of the wild Languedoc landscape.
You get a sweeping view of the town from the lovely bridge, its stone houses
and unforgettable authenticity easy to absorb in just a few hours.
  But stay longer, for you'll want more.

This is a town that's much more than just one more ruined medieval castle
(yes, there is one) and a few museums (yes, there are two).
It's your chance to walk through a stone built village,
deliberately letting time come to a standstill.
As you pause to admire local houses and uneven cobblestone paths,
you'll be grateful for the unspoiled atmosphere -- trees,
wildflowers and local character all in abundance.

Friends from Paris had recommended Restaurant Relais Chantovent,
raving about the regional menu and inviting welcome -- truffles included.
  In one of my less stellar moments as a trip planner, I mistakenly assumed
we could get seated for lunch without a reservation -- after all,
Minerve's location is far from the more cut-and-dried tourist trail.
  I was overwhelmingly wrong and we missed our chance.
Dumb, dumber, dumbest -- lesson learned.
  Nevertheless, we found a good restaurant, simple and market driven.
We indulged in a few local favorites including the treasured
jambon de la montagne noire and onion confit -- delightful.
 
But all this heart-stirring tranquility is a bit ironic if you consider
Minerve's overwhelmingly violent past.

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Behind these beautiful walls is a town bearing the legacy
of grim bloodshed and savagery.
  Magical, mysterious Minerve was once home to one of the bloodiest battles
of the Albigensian Crusade, the horrendous military war against the Cathars,
a small reformed Christian sect doomed thanks to the shenanigans of
Pope Innocent III and the ruling french crown and local nobility.

The precursor of The Inquisition,
this mind-boggling struggle occurred on several fronts in lovely Languedoc,
with a particularly crushing massacre in nearby Béziers.
  In 1210, a group of Cathars who escaped sure death in Béziers, sought
refuge in welcoming Minerve, where they were treated with kindness and respect.
Simon de Montfort (the elder), 5th earl of Leicester,unleashed his wrath
on the tiny village and the Minervois held out for six long weeks.
  After an agonizing hard-fought surrender, they capitulated,
assured at least of saving their own women and children.
The villainous de Montfort didn't waste any time, promising to
kill those who would not recant their Cathar faith.
  In the name of both the Pope and the crown, he chillingly
ordered the death of 140 Cathars, tied and burned at the stake. 
Today we would call it jihad or holy war but there was nothing holy in this slaughter.  More than anything, it was a land grab and a power struggle and here
in tiny Minerve, you can still find the ghosts of that awful carnage.
  A memorial to that day is quite haunting -- a standing stone
with a single dove carved into its core.

Even better, make your way to the Musée Hurepel, a small museum
that visually illuminates the shocking story of the Cathar tragedy.
Through dioramas made with little clay figurines -- knights, villagers,
and villains alike -- the siege of Minerve comes to life.
We bear witness to the perverse iniquity of The Strong
imposing their faith on The Weak -- by force.
  The entire sick story is told -- and it isn't pretty.
Nearly impossible to imagine, the plot is ugly -- crusaders gauging out the eyes
of those who wouldn't conform -- then sending their blinded victims into
the wilds of the mountains alone and unaided, a cruelty worse than death.

After a visit to the museum, you'll be ready for a nice carafe of Minervois wine,
  relieved that the only struggle in this land today comes from the vines'
tortuous efforts to bear luscious fruit from the rugged, stony landscape.
  Drink up and celebrate freedom of religion -- all religions --
and the modern separation of church and state.
In 1210, little Minerve would have been happy for even a smidgen
of the liberty and tolerance we enjoy today.
I think we can all say amen to that.


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France forever offers the visitor endless beauty, history and sparkle. 
Some of the best experiences can be found in the secret corners
of Languedoc-Roussillon, especially if you search beyond the tourist trail. 

For my money, little Minerve is an unforgettable example of the best of the best.
I hope you, too, get the chance one day to discover the complex nature
of this quiet yet emotionally intoxicating corner of enchanting rural France.

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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