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Strike a Pose at the Palais Garnier

11/25/2014

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"Let your mind start a journey to a strange new world
Leave all thoughts of the life you knew before
Let your soul take you where you long to be
Only then can you belong to me"

The stirring lyrics of Andrew Lloyd Webber's "Music of the Night"
tip the scales in the dramatic telling of the Phantom of the Opera. 
First launched as a book in 1910, the fantastical story of the masked phantom
hidden deep in the bowels of an iconic Parisian landmark,
has captured the imagination of drama lovers the world over.
It's no wonder.

The Palais Garnier casts a spell the minute you lay your eyes
on its lavish exterior -- and that's not even the best part.
  Not just another pretty Paris address, this opera house drips with drama.

Dashingly distinct, the Palais Garnier doesn't appear old.
And it doesn't look new either.
  It looks like nothing else in Paris.

The architectural style, a combination of Second Empire & Beaux-Arts,
is classical and majestic, destined to put the polish on Paris for all time.


You can almost see Degas' dancers queuing up, hoping to find their fifteen minutes of fame.
Visions of beautiful people ascending those magnificent stairs differentiate this
destination as more than just another monument in a city full of famous old stones.

Imagine the crème de la crème, the bluest of blue-bloods
strutting their stuff in the nation's capitol.
Courting culture and status simultaneously -- sort of the equivalent
  of walking the red carpet at the Academy Awards just before your space launch.

Putting on the ritz didn't just happen at the Ritz.
Pretentious, posing red carpet glamor was born in the spotlight of Paris' boldest
edifice where, rain or shine, the "show" kicked off long before the curtain was raised.

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Drama, on-stage and off, was the calling card of the Palais Garnier.
Opera had been introduced to France by the king of drama, Louis XIV, in 1669.
  It was nearly two hundred years later when Napoleon III kicked off an architecture
design contest as part of Baron Haussmann's  prolific revitalization campaign.

  A young, relatively unknown architect, Charles Garnier,
nailed the dream challenge, besting 171 other hopefuls.

It was a long road to complete such a massive project.
  The largest stage in Europe required meticulous planning, reams of artistic
collaboration and mountains of capital in order to move forward.
  Building began in 1861, but was delayed several times due to unforeseen setbacks.
  Work was halted due to the Siege of Paris in late 1870, during which the
partially constructed palace was used as a part-time hospital and food warehouse. 

Then there was the water issue. 
A subterranean stream was discovered underneath the pricey real estate,
  mobilizing the engineering scholars of the day
to deal with water drainage and control.
  They constructed an enormous underground cistern that solved the worst
of the problems and serves, even to this day, as a reservoir in case of fire.

Hallelujah for the H2O issue. 
The opera's underground "lake" fired up author Gaston Leroux's fertile imagination.
  He wrote the novel that became the inspiration for a whole slew of
theatricals, movies, musicals, t-shirts and coffee cups.
  "The Phantom of the Opera" didn't put the Palais Garnier on the map -- but you could say
  it probably makes for an interesting destination even for those who aren't normally
  interested in grand architecture, the arts or cultural activity in general.


The operatic palace -- originally named the Salles des Capucines -- and later
renamed after the architect, was completed in 1875.
Paris was never again the same.
Parisian peacocks came in droves to put on airs and strut their stuff.

They now had a grandstand as big as their egos.
Pre-Twitter, Pre-Facebook, the rite of social encounter -- a chance to see & be seen.
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Opulent gold-leaf, onyx and marble set the stage for a grand entrance.
  Striking a pose in full dress was easy on The Grand Staircase or in the Grand Foyer.
  Elaborate statuary, ornate columns and brilliant mosaics offered the type
of refinement usually reserved for royalty at Versailles.

The 1,979-seat opera house featured both opera and ballet. 
Today's opera has moved on to a new home, the Opera Bastille, but lucky
  for us, we can still capture the drama of the Paris ballet in its official showplace.

In 1964, a new ceiling was painted by expressive 20th century artist Marc Chagall.
  It illustrates scenes from an assortment of famous operas and is a real highlight of any visit.

  The 7-ton chandelier is still the original.
  In 1896, one of the chandelier's counter-weights broke loose
and fell on the audience, killing one person.
  This is one playhouse that gave a certain writer a lot to work with...echoes of
the Music of the Night can still be heard by those of us blessed with vivid imaginations.

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Vistors today can enjoy the Paris Opera Library & Museum (original to the design)
as well as a first-class dining experience.
L'Opera Restaurant opened on the premises in 2011.
  The modern design is award-winning and the food well reviewed.
Besides, who could turn down the chance to possibly dine with the Phantom.

These days, you have no need of a top hat or long evening gloves.
  For a performance, you are encouraged to wear business dress -- but like
so many things in this century, the code is pretty relaxed.
  Whether you take a tour in the daytime or attend a performance at night,
your visit to the Palais Garnier is guaranteed to be time well spent.

Strike a pose.
"Close your eyes, let your spirit start to soar."
Put the swagger back in your step at the Palais Garnier.

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MUSIC OF THE NIGHT
 Lyrics by Andrew Lloyd Webber, Richard Henry, Zachary Stilgoe, Charles Elliot Hart

Night time sharpens, heightens each sensation
Darkness stirs and wakes imagination
Silently the senses abandon their defenses

Slowly, gently night unfolds its splendor
Grasp it, sense it, tremulous and tender
Turn your face away from the garish light of day
Turn your thoughts away from cold unfeeling light
And listen to the music of the night

Close your eyes and surrender to your darkest dreams
Purge your thoughts of the life you knew before
Close your eyes, let your spirit start to soar
And you'll live as you've never lived before

Softly, deftly, music shall caress you
hear it, feel it, secretly possess you,
Open up your mind, let your fantasies unwind
In this darkness that you know you cannot fight
The darkness of the music of the night

Let your mind start a journey to a strange new world
Leave all thoughts of the life you knew before
Let your soul take you where you long to be
Only then can you belong to me


Floating, falling, sweet intoxication
Touch me, trust me, savor each sensation
Let the dream begin, let your darker side give in
To the power of the music that I write
The power of the music of the night

You alone can make my song take flight
Help me make the music of the night



Read more: Phantom Of The Opera - Music Of The Night Lyrics | MetroLyrics

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War Clouds over Provence

11/18/2014

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Provence
  Visions of lavender fields and sunny skies, rugged grapevines and outdoor markets
     teeming with luscious produce and flowers ---- a fabled region of seductive excess.
Abundance, that's the word to describe Provence -- an exaggeration of all things we desire.
 
Celebrities and common folk alike flock to this dazzling utopia,
sharing the same twisty streets and charming backwater cafés.

Stunning canvasses by van Gogh, Cézanne, Matisse and Picasso paint
a playful mood, making us long for this sensual southern province.
Chic Riviera venues, rugged hilltop towns, olives, acres of sunflowers,
colorful pottery, olive oil and steaming bowls of bouillabaisse top our list,
  all capped off with the ultimate backdrop of mountains and sea.

Sounds like heaven, doesn't it?

But Provence wasn't always a paradise.
  The grim realities of World War II soured that pretty picture.
In spite of our preconceived notions of a war fought exclusively in Normandy,
there was a second front in WWII France --- smack dab in the middle of utopian Provence.

We're caught short-sighted because this is one battle that missed the Hollywood treatment.
  John Wayne, Audie Murphy, Steve McQueen, George C. Scott, Tom Hanks.....
even the Band of Brothers were nowhere to be seen on this particular battlefront.
   WWII cinematic stories we've faithfully immortalized over the past 65+ years have mostly
   neglected the historic drama that took place on France's southern front.

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So often, we refer to Vichy France as Free France.
  Not true, the name distorts the facts.
The Unoccupied Zone, officially the French state, refers to the area
the Nazis didn't occupy after the fall of France but that's just part of the story.
The disgraceful Vichy government sucked up to Hitler's mad game plan,
aiding and abetting the Nazi chain of command in order to maintain
their status as policeman-predators-profiteers of defeated France.

It was bad there, too, though in the early days of the war -- mostly thanks to
heroic efforts of the French Resistance and the kindness of the general
French population -- many who sought freedom (mainly Jews,
political refugees, gypsies, homosexuals & communists) received refuge
from Nazi rule under the sunny skies of unoccupied Provence.

  American journalist Valerian Fry helped save 1500 people in peril escape
to America, including famous artists and intellectuals such as Marc Chagall,
Max Ernst, Marcel Duchamp and Max Ophuls as well as a whole host
of folks in distress, both Jews & non-Jews, famous or not.
Righteous Among Nations, Fry has been honored by Israel's Yad Vashem.

The Unoccupied Zone collapsed in late 1942 when the Allies landed in North Africa. 
Practically overnight, the Axis powers decided that strategic Mediterranean
ports in southern France were crucial to the fight so they revoked the
so-called "free zone" and made a quick grab for Marseilles.
  Many neighborhoods near the Vieux Port were bombed out, leaving hundreds homeless.
The Nazis wasted no time rounding up Marseilles' Jews
(with the willing support of the Marseilles Mafia) for transport to Auschwitz.

The entire Unoccupied Zone fell to Nazi occupation.
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Initially planned to coincide with Operation Overlord in Normandy,
the southern campaign (now dubbed Operation Dragoon) was hotly debated
among the Allied military overseers of the war.
  Winston Churchill vigorously challenged U.S. strategists, insisting this second
front would water down the efforts made in Normandy and on the Italian front.

Two full months after D-Day, Operation Dragoon finally saw the light.
  The Allies opened up their second front in occupied France with
a blitz by land, by air and by sea in August of 1944.
  Marseilles and Toulon were the seaside target of the daring mission.
  Mostly made up of French & U.S. fighters, they successfully forced a German retreat.
  Of the approximately 100,000 Allied soldiers who saw action, upwards of
1,000 men lost their lives on the beaches and in the hills & cities of Provence. 

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The Rhone American Cemetery & Memorial, located in Draguignan,
honors those killed in action during the Dragoon campaign .
The governments of both the U.S. and France haven't forgotten those who gave all
  and steadfastly maintain the twelve and a half acres of rolling greenery,
the final resting place for the brave men.
Yet it's a sad fact that the consecrated grounds are little known by tourists,
who arrive in droves to eat, drink and make merry in the fabled land of Provence.

You can also visit Les Milles, an internment camp that housed nearly 10,000 prisoners
in a makeshift brick & tile-works factory-turned prison.
  Located just outside lovely Aix-en-Provence, Les Milles has quite a story to tell.

Initially a prison for German and Austrian "undesirables" who just happened to be
in France when Hitler first came to power, the makeshift detention center was soon
  transformed into a far more lethal camp, at one time housing nearly 10,000 inmates.
  By the end of the war, when the Nazis gained full control, Les Milles deported
2,000 men, women and children (mostly Jews) to the death camps of Auschwitz.

  Les Milles Internment Camp is especially favored for its unusual art work.
Murals of abundant food and wine decorate the prison barracks, crafted by
artistic inmates who preferred to lighten the burden of their suffering 
"brothers" and "sisters" even while en masse, they slowly starved.

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The next time you find yourself enjoying any one of Provence's many charms,
take a time out to reflect on the bitter, war-time suffering of the region.

  We travel, of course, to enjoy the beauty and the bounty of a particular destination.
But it always pays to learn about the big picture,
the history -- both good and bad --
of the people who share their blessings with you.

Provence is more than the sum of its beautiful parts.
  Quiet lanes and pretty stone buildings aside, be thankful for the peace.

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Wars have been debated since time immemorial.
  It's especially heart-wrenching when the tranquility of a land
so soft and lovely is subject to the dirty details of battle and defeat.

  Provence is well known for its famous mistral -- the winds that blow mightily
at speeds sometimes reaching 50 mph for days at a time.
  Thinking of this particular time, the words of Bob Dylan's "Blowin' in the Wind"
somehow strike a chord  -- perhaps even more than the
region's own proud verse that became France's national anthem, "La Marseillaise". 

Luckily for the people of Provence and for we part-time Provence lovers,
the vestiges of war are scarce -- and like all healthy functioning people,
we are glad to go back to our glass of wine and peaceful sunsets.

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In today's Provence, you'll practically trip over the many examples
of flawless beauty and harmonious details.
  Truly, it's a place blessed with a relaxed lifestyle
 built on long lunches, fine wine and exquisite perfumes.
  Definitely made for making love, not war.

Even the raging mistral winds can't upset the perfect harmony -- winds that
can blow the ears off a donkey according to folkloric legend.
Perhaps Bob Dylan's words were meant for this old land,
words that make us question why
.


"Blowin' In The Wind" by Bob Dylan
(from www.azlyrics.com)

How many roads must a man walk down
Before you call him a man?
How many seas must a white dove sail
Before she sleeps in the sand?
Yes, how many times must the cannon balls fly
Before they're forever banned?
The answer my friend is blowin' in the wind
The answer is blowin' in the wind.

Yes, how many years can a mountain exist
Before it's washed to the sea?
Yes, how many years can some people exist
Before they're allowed to be free?
Yes, how many times can a man turn his head
Pretending he just doesn't see?

The answer my friend is blowin' in the wind
The answer is blowin' in the wind.

Yes, how many times must a man look up
Before he can really see the sky?
Yes, how many ears must one man have
Before he can hear people cry?
Yes, how many deaths will it take till he knows
That too many people have died?
The answer my friend is blowin' in the wind
The answer is blowin' in the wind.

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Paris is Just the Beginning

11/15/2014

1 Comment

 
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Everyone sees travel in a different light. 
When I acquired the vintage print you see above,
my husband cheered, "Wow, look at all the places we've visited!"
  My first thought was,
"Wow, look at all the places we haven't seen."

Deep breath.  Time out.
Repeat after me:
YOU ARE GOING TO SEE MORE IF YOU SEE LESS.
Think about that.

We try to cram in as much fun into our travels as possible.
After all, we want to get our "money's worth" -- right?
Too often, that translates into a long list of destinations
we don't appreciate or remember.

  I think the better plan is to treat your travels more like a luxurious bath.
Ease into the warm water, feel the sweet relief envelop you, relax into
the spirit of the moment and forget about everything else.
  We routinely take showers to do what's needed - wash, rinse, dry, done.
  We take baths to relax, rejuvenate and restore our spirits.
  That's how travel should be.
  You'll keep that vacation feeling longer if you treat yourself
to a leisurely soak instead of a scrub.

I titled my novel and blog "The Paris Effect" because so
many of the treasures of France can be found in Paris.
But Paris is just the beginning.

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Remember why you decided to travel in the first place.
We globe-trot to experience other cultures -- beauty, history,
the indulgence of a unique cuisine - and that's just for starters.
Navigating the planet changes our world view.
As we delight in new destinations, we re-invent ourselves,
confident we'll get our mojo back --- hopefully, along with our luggage.

It's like home repair for your head and heart -- but instead of stopping in
at Home Depot for your tools, you check into a new city, village,
nature retreat, mountaintop or beach, depending on your need.
When you re-model or update your home, you gain a number of benefits from
the blood, sweat and tears (not to mention the cash) you put into it.

Agreed, it's no bed of roses as you begin the process -- but somewhere
along the way, you'll gain a real sense of accomplishment as you
realize your enterprise is well on its way to fruition.
Satisfaction, relief, pride, fulfillment.
Consider this, doesn't it take a lot of aggravation and
a bit of despair along the way to complete the project? 
Is travel any different?

When you feel like something more -- and who doesn't ---
travel can bring excitement and energy into your life.

Here in Middle Tennessee, I live right on top of a Civil War battlefield.
  From time to time, I wonder about the men who fought and died in my backyard.
Visiting numerous sites in and around Nashville related to that awful war,
I often wonder if I see it with the same eyes as someone who has
traveled far and wide to witness the same time and place.
  There's something about traveling far away -- making the effort --
that stirs our senses to the wonders of our surroundings.

  Right or wrong, it's true -- when we see and experience
another country or a new city, our senses come alive.
We are more likely to appreciate the new perspective.

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It's rewarding to engage in a vacation activity that breaks your routine.
  If you habitually lie on the same beach year after year,
why not take up bird-watching or hiking in the mountains?
Maybe a week-long cooking course is something you've long dreamed of
--- or at the very least, look for a different beach.... and an unfamiliar view.

It's easy to get comfortable in your favorite city.
  Sometimes I have to force myself to book an apartment in
a new neighborhood -- but I do it anyway.
  And it's paid off, I can definitely tell you.
  How can you know Paris if you've only stayed in one or two arrondissements?  Changing gears makes the ride so much better. 
Yes, you can be sure we return to favorite restaurants, familiar
neighborhoods and museums --- but we're much more likely to discover
a whole new world when we change from one neighborhood to another.

  When in Paris, I've stayed in the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 14th,
and 17th arrondissements at various times in my life.
  I can't wait to discover my next new "home", hopefully
finding the courage to hang my hat in the 11th or 12th.
  It's not exactly like cliff diving or bungee jumping but in
a small way, it qualifies as adventure travel.
  Keeping it fresh.

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I want to see and experience everything under the sun. 
But in the real world, that's not possible. 
Time, money, family responsibilities and a million trivialities
contribute to messing up the best laid plans -- but not the dream.
  That's why I focus so much energy on my favorite country.
  I don't exclusively travel to France -- but I have a deep
  commitment to a long-term relationship with her.

Part of that commitment includes planning where to go next.
  Paris is usually where I begin or end my trip.
  It's a basic plan that works out well every single time.
  Never a dull moment in the capitol -- but my inquisitive nature
propels me to carefully choose other destinations
in my favorite land -- new towns, new faces, new everything.

It's in the planning where I remind myself of my own advice --
YOU'LL SEE MORE IF YOU SEE LESS -- and strategize accordingly.

  Translation:
Don't project a wish list that includes half a dozen cities and call that an itinerary.  Pare it down so you can enjoy what you see.
  Travel isn't a spreadsheet. 
If your neighbor saw six countries in seven days, have pity.
Better to prune down the plan and take joy in what you see.
Get the most out of each step you take.

That brings me right back to home renovation.
  It's the Big Reveal we all look forward to -- that moment
when you know all the work to get there was worthwhile.
The Big Reveal is the approach to each travel moment too, that
thrilling instant that raises the gooseflesh on the back of your neck.
As you get acquainted with a new city, the layers will soon reveal themselves, broadening your travel experience and ultimate satisfaction.
 
The process brings as many rewards as the accomplishment.
A payback that lasts a lifetime.

And yes, you got your money's worth.

 Paris is just the beginning.
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You'll be happier if you renovate your travel plans --- LESS IS MORE.
1 Comment
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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