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Confessions of a Paris Pack-Rat

3/30/2016

I confess.
I "collect" Paris.
Some might see my stuff as The Paris Trash Tour.
I just call it home sweet home.

A few nice pieces, a random collection of posters & prints, jewelry,
cookbooks, aprons, towels, jars of foie gras & mustard -- really anything that
speaks with a french accent -- Gallic gems that jog my memory
and bring Paris home to Tennessee.

It's mostly a victim-less crime (not counting my très tolerant husband).
My latest "pearl", a gold framed portrait of Napoleon,
is admittedly a bit over-the-top.

Friends amaze at the frequency of our trips -- yet it
sometimes feels like an eternity between visits.
So I continue to squirrel away Paris treasures that keep me
happy until the next time I can call Paris home.

Visions of les bouquinistes and tastes of petit buerre cookies
upgrade the in-between days of my non-Paris life.
I realize it's silly and a tad self-indulgent, but doesn't everyone need
an unrestrained diversion or two to relieve the daily grind of
political chaos, social media idiocy and what to cook for dinner?

Reading and re-reading my journal entries and back
issues of french magazines help stave off
the threat of gray hair and mid-life.
Who cares about sagging chins and swollen feet
when you have Paris at your doorstep?

I refuse to apologize for my Paris infatuation.
A crush on the City of Lights is no worse than going gaga
over a favorite sports team or Kylie Jenner's lipstick.
It's a slightly delirious preoccupation, yes, but when it's something
you love to the ends of the earth..... who can argue with that?

Paris is the world's most visited city, its attributes too many to count.
Feeling thankful, stuffed to the brim with gratitude,
celebrating my favorite city offers an opportunity
to turn my house into a home -- one filled with beauty and pleasure.
It soothes my soul and conjures up a bright future
filled with even more travel experiences and new-found friends.

I love being an adult and not having to ask for permission.
Reach for the stars and you just might get it.
Thank you, Paris, for this journey.
Thank you for your quiet unchanging landmarks, your great
cathedrals and museums, your stylish razzmatazz.
Thank you for your unmissable skyline and river walks,
for your bridges and cobblestone streets -- but most of all,
thank you for inspiring my life 365 days a year.

"Thankfully, dreams can change. If we'd all stuck with our first dream,
the world would be overrun with cowboys and princesses."
Stephen Colbert

I think my Paris compulsion is purely a case of being who I want to be.

"For what it’s worth:
it’s never too late or, in my case, too early to be whoever you want to be.
There’s no time limit, stop whenever you want.
You can change or stay the same, there are no rules to this thing.
We can make the best or the worst of it. I hope you make the best of it.
And I hope you see things that startle you.
I hope you feel things you never felt before.
I hope you meet people with a different point of view.
I hope you live a life you’re proud of.
If you find that you’re not, I hope you have the courage to start all over again."
F. Scott Fitzgerald

"The best of America drifts to Paris.
The American in Paris is the best American.
It is more fun for an intelligent person to live in an intelligent country. France has the only two things toward which we drift
as we grow older – intelligence and good manners."

–F. Scott Fitzgerald

Joy.
It's all about finding your joy and gobbling it up.

My Paris "stuff" is a steady whisper to look for inspiration in everything I do.
Be it book, movie, family portrait, perfume or paper bag,
if it's a reminder of days well spent in Paris, it's a treasure.

"They Can't Take That Away From Me"

"Our romance won't end on a sorrowful note
Though by tomorrow you're gone
The song has ended but as the songwriter wrote,
The melody lingers on.

They may take you from me,
I'll miss your fond caress
But though they take you from me,
I'll still possess...

The way you wear your hat
The way you sip your tea
The memory of all that
No they can't take that away from me
The way your smile just beams
The way you sing off key
The way you haunt my dreams
No, no they can't take that away from me

We may never never meet again, on that bumpy road to love
Still I'll always, always keep the memory of

The way you hold your knife
The way we danced till three
The way you changed my life
No, no they can't take that away from me
No, they can't take that away from me."

Lyrics by George & Ira Gershwin

A glass of wine, a look around the house and I'm nearly "there".
Counting the days until the "next time" isn't quite so hard.

In the meanwhile, Paris, I'll think of you and smile my fool head off, dreaming
up new adventures and fresh memories that I'm sure to bring back home.

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Once Upon a Time in Avignon

3/22/2016

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The urge to pull up stakes and start all over again is
a hunger we all experience from time to time.
Who wouldn't be seduced by visions of a calmer, more centered life?
Dreams of a fresh start rewind over and over in our heads,
the chance to recharge our batteries and beat the blues.
The grass is always greener .....

Imagine life in 1309, the apex of of a politically charged Catholic Church,
its Italy-centric reign bitterly fought over by a house divided.
With the election of the first ever french pope, the holy father
and his entourage picked up and flew the coop
in search of a better quality of life.
Abandoning Rome and its tiresome politics, the pontiff, his
companions, and most of the church wealth headed to the promised land.
Avignon. France.
A chance to turn over a new leaf and win back peace of mind.

Those pearly gates of Provence may not have been the doorway to heaven
but in those turbulent times, it may have felt like an escape from hell.
At least, it started out that way....

"You may think the grass is greener on the other side, but if you
take the time to water your own grass it would be just as green."
Unknown

Clement V of France, elected pope in 1305, appointed
a majority of french cardinals, thereby putting
a lock on a long succession of non-Italian popes.
When french King Philip IV made advances to the new pope,
Clement and the church power-brokers, sick of being at each others'
throats in politically charged Rome, were ready for a new "career path".
Vatican City* was left to smolder as The Church headed for sunny Provence.
*It wasn't referred to as The Vatican or Vatican City at that time,
but for purposes of explanation, we'll refer to today's brand name.

Consider the stress we mortals feel when we make a big about-face -- new
career, remodeled house, buying a new set of wheels ..... whatever the move,
change brings about a mix of pain as well as the rosy promise of possibilities.
And that's probably what the wily Pope felt as he was
wooed and won by the ambitious french king.

Who knows if the Pope's move to Avignon was the right one,
but what I can confidently say is that a trip to the
wonderful walled city is a very very very good idea.

Avignon is a beautiful city with too many attractions to count.
Its most distinguishing feature is the Palace of the Popes,
referred to as Palais des Papes.

This is not the Vatican.
If you're expecting Rome, you may as well
go home -- but that would be a big mistake.
Avignon's palace is a thrilling masterpiece of showmanship.

When you visit, the first thing you'll see is Place du Palais, a huge
open space that shows off the fortress/castle to its greatest advantage.
You'll feel the power and weight of the pope's authority the minute
you set eyes on its massive walls and towers.

The Palais des Papes began as an old church palace
which soon outgrew its ecclesiastical court.
Before long, the succession of popes updated and grew this house of God,
its massive stone walls a mix of varying design.
Papal chambers, ceremonial halls and thoughtful exhibits will take
you back to the restless days and nights of Christianity's mother church.

Enormous church wealth was spent to insure the papacy got its just due.
Imagine the audacity it took to re-write church history.
The magnitude of moving from Rome to Avignon may have been as
thunderous as when God created the earth -- although I very
much doubt the papacy ever got the chance to rest on day seven....
As a matter of fact, they had seventy years to "get it right" and
when all was said and done -- well, it wasn't done and that's how
The Great Papal Schism* began.
*the reign of two popes, one in Rome & one in Avignon

"The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain."
Dolly Parton

St-Benezet Bridge is the famous Avignon bridge from the nursery rhyme we all know and love -- "sur le pont d'Avignon..."

Badly spoiled during the French Revolution, the Pope's Palace retains
a certain formidable power, the basic framework remaining intact.
Filled with frescoes, large scale models and tile-work, you'll marvel over
the strength of its 10-foot thick walls and overwhelming proportions.
With very little furniture and still fewer artifacts, it's the scale of the place,
the outrageous visual magnitude of the structure that provides a priceless look
at what it must have felt like to live a day in the life of a pope.
Outweighing any thoughts of what's gone missing, you'll recognize
power, wealth and scholarship in a privileged setting.

And the history!
From The Black Death to widespread famine, all seven Avignon popes
had to fight for every breath of power and influence while those in Rome
jacked up their struggle to wrestle away control from the french base.

There were good times as well.
In France, the papacy was re-organized, advancing more centralized power.
Missionary work expanded, paving the road for a renewed push for
university education and many other enlightened movements.

The palace -- as well as the high walls that surround the city --
were custom-built to make Avignon a virtual fortress.
For some perspective, picture the parking lots
that surround today's city walls.
Now try to imagine them as they once were --
moats that preserved the safety of the medieval city.

"Religion is regarded by the common people as true,
by the wise as false, and by the rulers as useful."
Seneca the Younger, Roman Philosopher

After seventy years of Avignon rule, in 1377, Pope Gregory X returned to Rome.
Following his untimely death, the pontiff was succeeded by Urban VI,
a despot despised by all the french cardinals.
The Great Papal Schism, the period when one pope resided in Rome
and the other in Avignon, had begun --- and oh what a ride.
At one point (1409 in Pisa), a third pope was elected!

French Pope Clement VII and the detested Pope Urban VI
took turns excommunicating each another.
Scandal! Slander! Shame!
It gives new meaning to the slang "a holy mess".

By 1429, the Avignon papacy ended once and for all, paving the way for absolute control in Rome and the eventual emergence of an invincible Vatican City.

"There is no great religion without a great schism.
All of them have it.
And that's because you're dealing with something called faith.
And faith is not something you can prove; faith is personal opinion.
..... when you're dealing with something with certainty, like, y'know,
science or logic, you don't have the--there's no wiggle room;
that's why history is not filled with warring math cults, y'know,
because you can settle the issue; you can prove something to be right or wrong,
and that's the end of the argument: next case.
Whereas, when you're dealing with faith, you can forever argue your point,
or another point, because you're dealing with intangibles.
Personally, I think, faith is what you ask of somebody
when you don't have the goods to prove your point."
Thomas Quinn, author

Avignon is completely encased inside medieval walls.

There's nothing like a central market in Provence -- the best of the best.

The Rocher des Doms is a special place.
Overlooking the Rhone and its famous bridge, this park on a bluff offers
great views of neighboring town Villeneuve-les-Avignon,
marking the spot where Provence ends and Languedoc begins.
Wander among the rocks and green space to get your fill of today's city flavor.
You'll discover quiet grottoes and a chance to rest your weary feet.

Notre Dame des Doms, a 12th century Romanesque cathedral, is unmissable
with its gilded statue of the Virgin Mary perched on high.
It boasts a magnificently ornate tomb, two organs as well as
a marble throne left by one of Avignon's popes.

If you're into ancient sculpture and stone carvings, you're in for a happy surprise. The Musée Lapidaire's collection of marble statuary and bronze figurines
spoil us for Egyptian, Roman and Etruscan history.
Definitely a must-stop for museum-nerds (like me).

Set in a lovely mansion, the Musée Angladon offers a haven for serious art lovers. Paintings by Manet, Degas, Picasso, Cezanne and Van Gogh offer
a more modern beauty in the heart of the ancient city.
Highly recommended.

Avignon's wide open spaces and picturesque squares
are filled with unmistakable provencal character.
Perfectly sized, Avignon is somewhere in between a large town and a
small city -- thoroughly walkable, with a vast array of diverse entertainment.

Everywhere you turn, you'll see typical Provence at play --- people watching
at its best -- strolling, sipping café coffees, slurping ice cream cones.
The area around the Opera offers fantastic people-watching.
Little pockets of parks and squares such as Les Halles
covered food market will tempt you to stay forever.
Rue Teinturiers and Place Carmes should not be missed.

Flowers are abundant as well as fantastic food and drink.
We took the opportunity to enjoy a Vietnamese dinner off the beaten path on a shady residential street -- spring rolls, lacquered duck... a delightful change of pace.

These little peeks at how real people live are reason enough to travel.
Admiring their magnificent 17th and 18th townhouses, feeling the history
that's inside these ancient walls, you're sure to make some very special memories
as you sip your Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine -- which, by the way,
was introduced by Pope Clement V in the days of the Avignon Papacy.

Sensuous, sunny Provence is always a good time and, no doubt
about it, Avignon is a perfect reflection of what you've come to see.
It's time well spent, a powerful reminder of France's fascinating history
as well as an optimistic tribute to the future.
Just like the celebrated city enclosed by ramparts,
our hosts made us feel alive, secure, and special.

Our adventures included feeding a turtle, the hungry
house pet of the home we rented for five days.
Hanging out on the flower filled patio, sipping wine (Cotes du Rhone of course!)
and talking about everything and nothing is what lazy days of travel are meant to be.
Medieval ramparts, palaces and popes are one thing -- but it's the personal side,
the daily experiences that make for a memorable time in a special place.
And Avignon certainly is an exceptional treat, one that drips with smashing flashes
of inspiration and out of the ordinary experiences -- making us feel like we belonged.

Make like a pope and head for animated Avignon.
Stir the pot, roll with the punches -- and enjoy your very own transformation.

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Romancing the Palais Royal

3/9/2016

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Romantic Paris.
The mythical city on the Seine seduces us with emotional possibilities.

And when you finally get there, you can hardly believe your eyes.
It actually surpasses all expectations.
Some days, all you have to do is just show up -- and that's
exactly how it is at this particularly prized slice of Paris real estate.

Just across from the Louvre lies a polished Paris beauty called the Palais Royal.
Pronounce it the way you refer to the movie "Casino Royale."

At once both stately and tender, the gracefully defined square
is bordered by elegant arcades on three of its sides,
offering a mix of regal apartments and chic boutiques.
Softened by a classic french formal garden, the whole effect is
soothing, peaceful, and virtually untouched by too many tourists.
Whimsical art, twin fountains and a smattering of sophisticated
locals will make you wonder why this isn't on every Paris Top Ten List.

There's a certain sweetness to the total effect.
Immeasurably impressive without even trying,
this is the perfect embodiment of romantic Paris.
And isn't that the definition of a perfect romance -- love without really trying.

"Be happy for this moment. This moment is your life."
Omar Khayyam, Persian Philosopher & Poet,
the same guy who proclaims the season of wine, roses & drunken friends.
900 years later, that still seems like a good idea.

We live in an aggressive world.
And sometimes, even in an oasis like Paris, you can feel weary and hassled.
That's why it's these little moments of surprise that take our breath away,
reminding us why we came and what we're hoping to find.
Paris is not an achievement.
It's a break from ambition and drudgery, a discovery of what we really want.

The Palais Royal is not a destination like a museum or cathedral.
Quite simply, it's the perfect spot for a simple stroll through a lovely palace
garden, the chance to grasp what it was like to live in Paris in another era.
What a relief to find a place where nothing is expected of you.

Romantic .... peaceful .... what a gift to the world-weary traveler.
But did you know, the Palais Royal harbors a fascinating
history -- including a raucous story or two?

The Palais Royal was built as the personal residence of Paris'
most famous clergyman -- Cardinal Richelieu.
Construction began in 1629 and was completed ten years later.
When Richelieu died in 1642, it became the king's property,
so Palais Richelieu transitioned into Palais Royal.

King Louis XIV was raised in the palace.
His mother, despising life at the Louvre palace, chose the Palais Royal,
hoping the future Sun King's existence would be less of a side show "off campus".
Ten years later, they moved back to the Louvre but as soon as he was able,
Louis built Versailles, longing for another chance at a "peaceful" idyll.

The truth-is-stranger-than-fiction portion of our story came still later
when Louis Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, got his hands on the property
and set out to redesign it into a more favorably commercial endeavor .
He added the beautiful gardens and some of the same apartments we see today. Around 1784, he went so far as to open the gardens to the public, making
a huge profit on the sale of property to retail and entertainment enterprises.

At first, it was the "in" spot where the well-to-do could properly flit
around for hours, enjoying the bucolic grounds while dining on delicacies.
Unfortunately, it didn't take long before the premium property traded in its
class, mutating into a carnival atmosphere where the upscale cafés & boutiques played neighbor to loan sharks, gambling houses and brothels.
Around the mid-1800's, a prohibition on public gambling put an end to the
decadent circus and the Palais Royal ceased to be an embarrassing spectacle.

The apartments were still considered good real estate -- after all,
"location location location" never goes out of style -- and it eventually
became a chic address again for the likes of well-heeled trendsetters.

Writer Colette lived there.
Among her many successes, in 1944, she wrote "Gigi" - the classic french novel
that America turned into an Academy Award winning musical starring Leslie Caron.
Jean Cocteau, toast-of-the-town, talented artist, playwright,
filmmaker, found his way to the beautiful square, his artistic soul
no doubt attracted by fine design and historical substance.

Today, you're more likely to run into a dog walker or a starving artist
but no matter, the Palais Royal's glamour hasn't faded one bit.

Come here, too, for a chance to see the legendary Comédie-Francaise,
the most prestigious theater in France.
Staging a mix of classical and modern productions, this playhouse
enjoys an incredibly intriguing place in Paris history.
Molière, France's most beloved playwright and actor, staged a dramatic
final act when he died during a performance in 1673.
It was here that the "Divine Sarah" Bernhardt played both Cleopatra & Hamlet.
The theater continues to draw a crowd, its prestige and gorgeous
Doric-style stage long considered a portrait of french history and glamour.

Check out the museum where you can see both public and private spaces,
capped off with an opportunity to see the chair where Molière
sat when he dropped dead in front of his startled audience.

And what ever you do, if you have the means, book a reservation at
Le Grand Véfour, the renowned restaurant tucked neatly into a corner of the square.
It's on my bucket list for a very good reason.
Harking all the way back to 1784 (originally named Café de Chartres), this gastronomical paradise is the Parisian birthplace of fine french cuisine.
Its murals, mirrors and menus are pure Paris and everyone who is
anyone has dined here at one time or another.
From Napoleon & Josephine to Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Colette, and
Thomas Jefferson, the starred restaurant is a classic french masterpiece
of fine dining -- which leads us right back to the romantic appeal of the Palais Royal.

My word! Napoleon & Josephine!
I can't wait for my turn.

Romantic comedies are a mainstay of Paris cinema history.
The 1963 film classic "Charade" starred Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant
and the city of Paris pretty much on equal footing.

A pivotal point in the movie includes a dramatic chase through the colonnade
of the Palais Royal, culminating in a dramatic showdown with
the "bad guy" in the bowels of the Comédie-Francaise.
Try to imagine -- a catwalk -- a man with a mustache and a gun -- Hepburn's
mustard colored coat -- well, I won't give it away here but if you
haven't seen it, you're in for a magical treat of old Hollywood genius.

And no, you can't find that Givenchy coat on eBay.
I've already looked.

Perfect tranquility, a romantic setting...
The only thing you need to worry about is getting a sunburn
or running up your credit card.

The Palais Royal offers a great mix of shopping and entertainment.
Its swank boutiques are unique, offering an eclectic mix
of stuff you probably don't need -- proof positive it's a glorious destination.
Vintage couture, one-of-a-kind music boxes, designer scarves, antique medals
and garden supplies are just a few features of this high class shopper's paradise.

Restaurant terraces make for a lovely lunch spot
and you need not spend your last dime.
Better yet, just sit back and enjoy the view.
This is your moment in the sun.

Fun, colorful metro stop just in front of the Comedie-Francaise on Place Colette -- the glass balls look like a piece of jewelry.

Daniel Buren's striped columns remain a puzzle to some Paris purists.
I personally think they're a fine example of what makes Paris so enchanting -- that diverse mix of stimulating opposites -- artistic and intellectual contrasts.
Black and white, marble and concrete, the columns are alive with charm.
The city itself is a work of art and it's scenes like this -- dramatically contra-
distinct -- that put the exclamation point on the Palais Royal's romantic allure.
As every romantic fool knows, when it comes to love -- opposites attract.

Take the scenic route.
You're sure to find the romantic Paris of your dreams.
There's an art to finding pleasure -- and it's right in the center
of Paris at the unforgettable Palais Royal.

"We may pass violets looking for roses.
We may pass contentment looking for victory."
Bernard Williams, British Philosopher

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Confessions of a Paris Pack-Rat

Once Upon a Time in Avignon

Romancing the Palais Royal

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!

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Confessions of a Paris Pack-Rat

Once Upon a Time in Avignon

Romancing the Palais Royal

AUTHORMICHELLE MOGGIOThanks for visiting my blog!

Archives

Categories

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!