The Paris Effect
  • Welcome
  • Blog
  • Contact
  • Press

Shipshape in Saint-Malo

8/7/2016

2 Comments

 
Picture
In a world that seems to constantly rearrange itself,
it's comforting to visit the timeless Breton town of Saint-Malo where
thick granite walls and bulky ramparts act as sturdy reminders
of the strength and invincibility of ancient fortifications in days gone by.
Snug as a bug in a rug. 

Well, not exactly. 

 In 1944, the seaside city was devastated right down to its primordial bones,
pounded to near extinction by American fire bombs targeted to lay
 waste to the Nazi occupiers and their strategic defense systems.
  In an extraordinarily long battle that culminated in hand to hand combat
on the streets of Saint-Malo, the Allies bravely disposed of the Nazi threat.
 Regrettably, the battle produced dire consequences for much of the civilian
population, killing scores of locals as fires wreaked near ruin on the town's
awe-inspiring mansions, shopfronts and 13th century cathedral.
War is hell -- and then some.

Picture
You'll hardly believe any of it happened when you see its spectacular restoration. 
After the war, France took extraordinary pains to re-build her cities.
  In the now shipshape Saint-Malo, it's obvious they have over-delivered.
The town has reclaimed her ancient glory, a long-awaited victory for its citizens.

  Brittany is forever stunning -- the sea, the sky, storefronts and townhouses
covered in the local gray granite, dripping with flowers and charm -- and here, contemplating Saint-Malo's war-torn biography, the beauty feels even more intense.

The walled citadel and miles long beach are glazed with happy holiday-makers,
many of them launched from just across the English Channel.
  Ferry service from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo delivers the Brits
in droves, just adding to the juiced-up fun.

Saint-Malo is now a harbor of peaceful contrasts -- a mix
of both tranquility & festivity, and for that we can give thanks.
These days, the only war you're likely to wage is over which seafood plate
to choose --  moules mariniere, oysters from nearby Cancale, coquilles
 St-Jacques -- but then again, all those creperies look very inviting.....

Picture
Petite Bé, the amazing view from our hotel window.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Mayhem on the high seas was practically invented in Saint-Malo. 
In days of old, pirates and privateers (slightly less terrifying pirate-merchants
  considered somewhat legitimate because they owned mansions nearby)
made their living in these streets and on the beaches.

  Apparently, sins and seaworthy men go together like baguettes & butter. 
The slave trade in the early to mid 1700's managed to launch some
100 malevolent ships filled with enslaved African hostages and
bound for plantations in America and the Caribbean.

But these days, it's hard to imagine pirates and slavers, Nazis and crusty
old outlaws as you experience the easy-going pleasure of this spectacular city.
  Yes, there is a "modern" (19th century) town outside the walls but other
than the beach, you'll be tempted to remain intra-muros*.
  And if you're like me, you'll never figure out which buildings are original
and which are the perfect replicas so painstakingly constructed after WWII. 

*
within the old fortified walls

Picture
The beggar birds just outside our hotel window -- nicknamed Gertrude & Heathcliffe
Picture
New friends offer advice on local landmarks and book titles
Picture
Saint-Malo's holiday atmosphere has a serious side, too. 
Discover seafaring traditions and local history through
any of a number of choice activities.

After all, this is where explorer Jacques Cartier set sail,
  in due course becoming the hero of Canada.
  Writer Chateaubriande (Francois-René de), long considered the
father of French Romanticism, no doubt found his inspiration
in the romantic view of the ancient harbor. 

Though the old seaworthy taverns and brothels have long since been
converted into restaurants and souvenir shops, you can still satisfy
your inner pirate by visiting the Demeure de Corsaire, an 18th century
mansion that claims secret stairways and even a pirate's chest or two.

Saint-Malo offers a grand aquarium (of course) as well as a local history museum filled with all manner of nautical displays including model ships and a short
history of cod fishing -- much more interesting than it sounds.

But our favorite, without a doubt, was walking across the sands
at low tide to the prison island called Fort National. 
Built in the 1600's, this was key to King Louis XIV's blueprint
to protect Saint-Malo and the Atlantic coast.
  The plans were drawn up by brilliant military architect Vauban and a big part
of the thrill is the thought you're taking your life into your own hands (not really)
to walk across the beach that had just been raging with high waves hours earlier. 
The fort is not always open so you have to check to see if the flag is flying --
  meaning it's safely at low tide -- mostly during summer months --
and make sure you leave when they give the word.

  Fort National's diminutive stature contrasts with its colossal escapades
in history, including a place in the military books of WWII.
  In 1944, as American bombs rained hell on the coast, the Nazi occupiers
imprisoned 380 locals from Saint-Malo, later adding still another 150,
forced to face the devastating bombs as well as food shortages.
Imagine being on a teeny island at sea facing a fusillade of bombs....
 
A second island, Grand Bé, is also located just off the ramparts
but we didn't have the opportunity to see it due to the tides.
  The remains of Chateaubriande are buried here, romantically facing the sea.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Wind surfing, boat excursions -- even a surf school for those so
bravely inclined -- confirm the sanctity of this brilliant coastal city.

 The streets become very quiet at night -- the day-trippers long gone,
my pirate-partner finally weary of echoing "arghhh" all day long....
As for me, I'll put on my Breton stripes (ya gotta buy the t-shirt!),
sit in a bona fide maritime tavern and sip on an Armorik* as I listen
to the wind whip and the waves crash against the high granite walls.
And I will count my many blessings. 

*single malt french whiskey made in Brittany

Picture
Picture
A kouign amann a day keeps the doctor away....
Picture
Picture
Strangely, my best souvenir of Saint-Malo came long after returning home.
  Anthony Doerr's Pulitzer Prize winning novel "All the Light We Cannot See"
brought me back to the shores of Saint-Malo in ways I had not imagined.

  His beautiful story created a picture in my imagination more vivid
even than what I witnessed with my own two eyes.
  If you have not yet read this gorgeously written novel about the little blind girl forced to leave Paris bound for her uncle's "tall house by the sea"-- well,
  just suffice it to say - run, don't walk to your local bookstore or library.
 
Marie-Laure, Werner, shattering rooftops, the channel breaking against
the wall... this story and Saint-Malo's larger-than-life history
during the dark years of occupation will leave you speechless.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Don't miss the chance to see Saint-Vincent Cathedral, first built in the 12th century and restored after WWII.
Picture
Picture
Bien sur, Saint-Malo is a prize, an important stop on any visit to Brittany. 
Inhale the hearty sea air and watch the tide roll in.
  Romantic, beautiful, this is Brittany at its best.

"Marie-Laure can sit in an attic high above the street and hear lilies
rustling in marshes two miles away.
She hears Americans scurry across farm fields, directing their huge cannons
at the smoke of Saint-Malo; she hears families sniffling around hurricane lamps
in cellars, crows hopping from pile to pile, flies landing on corpses in ditches;
she hears the tamarinds shiver and the jays shriek and the dune grass burn;
she feels the great granite fist, sunk deep into the earth’s crust, on which
Saint-Malo sits, and the ocean teething at it from all four sides, and the
outer islands holding steady against the swirling tides;
she hears cows drink from stone troughs and dolphins rise through the
green water of the Channel; she hears the bones of dead whales stir five
leagues below, their marrow offering a century of food for cities of creatures
who will live their whole lives and never once see a photon sent from the sun.
She hears her snails in the grotto drag their bodies over the rocks.”

Imagine what it was like to be here when the city was nearly destroyed.
Now imagine the enthusiasm you'll feel to see it restored to its full potential,
feeling privileged to witness a man-made miracle.

Thank you, France, for restoring Saint-Malo to her former glory.

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace."
Jimi Hendrix

  My advice:
  Drop anchor, stay awhile and as always,
PRAY FOR PEACE.

Picture
2 Comments

Big Daddy of All Castles

5/15/2016

1 Comment

 
Picture
Travel sometimes feels more like a negotiation than a U.N. Summit Meeting.
  You stare at the map and ache to visit every irresistible little town...
until reality sets in and you realize you need to "pick your battles".

  Throughout France, the competition is stiff.
  Too many treasures to count, so many places to love....
After a while you start feeling like a shipwreck lost at sea. 
So you narrow the list, take a chance and BOOM!
You land in the place you've been dreaming of all your life.

That's just how we felt when we worked our way to Fougères,
namesake of both castle and town in beautiful Brittany.

There it was, the castle to beat all castles, the one we
will use to measure every other feudal fortress hereafter...
  Think big.  Think magical. 
Think butterflies in the tummy awesome.
Chateau de Fougères is in a league of its own.

It just may be the best medieval castle of all time.

Picture
Don't confuse this feudal stronghold
with the pretty Renaissance chateaux of the Loire.
 This is one hundred percent medieval, partly in ruin, but utterly captivating.

Few castles are as evocative of a specific time and place as this one.
When first built, it was surrounded by water, its moat
exaggerating the strong physical heft you see today.
Shouldering 11 imposing towers, the massive fortress-castle maintains
ramparts perfect for a stroll in a make-believe feudal kingdom. 

The chateau began as a primitive wooden structure in the
11th century, later rebuilt to fortress strength in stone
and continually modified over the next 400 years. 
A town grew around its ramparts and taken as a whole, you'll
be privileged to see history, and better still, FEEL it in every step you take.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
The history of Chateau de Fougères is an on-again off-again melodrama
of conflict between France and England.
  Everyone wanted a piece of the Brittany tarte and a torrent
of power struggle and fighting included notables such as
King Henry II of England and Francis I of France.

But for my money, the most haunting history waited until the 20th century.
Brittany's anguish under Nazi rule came to a head on June 8, 1944
when Operation Overlord forever changed the landscape
of Fougères and the surrounding area.
Bomb after bomb devastated the beautiful land
in order to rid France of the Nazi threat.

Too often, we think only of Normandy when it comes to the early
clashes and deadly destruction during the Allied invasion in WWII.
American and other Allied forces fought the enemy and won, though
the good citizens of Fougères, having long endured Nazi tyranny,
lost their homes, their industry and too often even their lives.
The Battle of Brittany was a battle to win the Atlantic, ensuring a free flow of fuel, weapons and troops for the remainder of the great war.
We are grateful that the great castle of Fougères is still standing.

Picture
Picture

Picture
Fougères Bonus:
  Just 14 miles north (to Saint-James) of the chateau,
look for the Brittany American Cemetery and Memorial, regrettably
 too often an overlooked historical marker on the Brittany landscape.

  Many of us only seek out the more famous cemeteries
of nearby Normandy but this one is special too.
On 28 rolling acres of lush green grass, 4,410 American soldiers
are buried, forever remembered by the grateful citizens of France.
A memorial wall includes 499 names of those missing in action and
every year, hundreds of military elite (both French & American),
Fougère locals and lovers of freedom, gather to give thanks.

The chapel showcases stained glass and sculpture
with the Great Seal of the United States.
Bells toll daily to pay respect to those who gave their lives to liberate
France, including two Medal of Honor recipients
whose graves forever memorialize the soldiers' ultimate sacrifice.

Picture
We dreamers want to believe in places like Fougères,
castles and knights, fair maidens and happily ever after. 
As we grow up and learn the disheartening truth of "castles in the air",
we sometimes lose our way and need history's reminders.
   I believe we should all dare to dream the impossible, get lost
 in wistful thoughts of winning the horse race or writing a best-selling novel.

Fougères is a great place to inspire such imaginings --  speculation
gone wild, a thoughtful roam to another dimension.
Plan a trip tout de suite to this part of Brittany
and re-write your own storybook ending.


Chateau de Fougères -- where time passes gently,
offering a chance to get lost in a nearly forgotten time and place.

Picture
1 Comment

Remarkable Rennes, a Recipe for Fun

4/18/2016

1 Comment

 
Picture
When in Rennes, do as the Romans do. 
Perhaps that's not the way St. Ambrose voiced his famous quote,
but it seems the ancient Romans who colonized Rennes left their
mark in a way we modern lovers of life can appreciate and embrace.

So what exactly do the good citizens of Rennes do?
They dig into life with gusto.

This city is one big party. 
Street food, live music, tempting bars, Rennes is a college town
with attitude, a slice of Brittany you've not seen before.

Both avant-garde and original, the city is capped off by a mountain
of good-natured, progressive-thinking, hard-drinking university students
who pepper the stage with an unforgettable mix of colorful fun.
There's no other place quite like it.

It's a city made for people watching.
Filled with smiling and thirsty young scholars, get ready to flash back
to your favorite college memories -- those non-comformist "good old days"
of crazy styles, crazier hair, and laid back cool.
Maybe this is where the term laissez-faire originated??
Do as you choose.
  And if you're in Rennes, you've already chosen well.


School Days, School Daze --- I'm not too old to remember.....

"A telephone survey says that 51 percent of college students drink
until they pass out at least once a month.
The other 49 percent didn't answer the phone."
Craig Kilborn, entertainer

Picture
Picture
We travel to absorb culture, magnificent sights and riveting history,
imagining we're très distingué as we enrich our intellect
and pad our ego with uplifting experiences. 
Hoping to enhance our self worth, we create a vision of
self-improvement through disciplined adventures.

So would you forgive me if I told you we went to Rennes simply to have fun?
And we succeeded, jumping headfirst into Renne's fountain-of-youth.

Accounting for your time, making sure every last second is
an elevating experience can be a drag if you take yourself too seriously.
For those days, a small cafe, a little curiosity and a thirst for some
 spirited conversation hits the nail right on the head.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Half-timbered houses line the cobblestone streets of Rennes' historical center.  Largely pedestrianized, these street are made for long lazy afternoons.
Cafés, bars, creperies and book stores are lively almost any hour of the day or night.

You may be tempted to think this is just one more cute town
in the most adorable region in France -- but you would be wrong. 
Once you step outside the medieval center, you'll discover Brittany's capital city
is hi-tech and modern, well respected for its two universities as well as
a very fine study abroad program for American high school students.

  Don't miss the gorgeous 19th century Opéra de Rennes on Place de la Marie,
just a few steps away from a lovely 17th century city hall.
Several very fine churches and a planetarium will keep your camera busy
and whatever you do, don't miss the Musée des Beaux Arts with its
  magnificent collection that spans the centuries.
From Rubens and Da Vinci to the the more modern Pont Aven School,
 this fine arts gallery is capped off by a marvelous Picasso.
 
The city was nearly destroyed by the great fire of 1720 and still later
 suffered grave damage from Allied bombing during WWII. 
But you can't keep a good city down.
The Parc du Thabor is a lovely botanical garden (roses and an aviary!) that
brings peace and serenity to this hilltop slice of Breton heaven.

Rennes' citizens take great care of their precious city. 
We noticed how diligently store owners, students and visitors
took advantage of the city's centralized recycling bins. 
In 1998, it was Rennes that first brought easy access bike-sharing

 to the world, offering electronic kiosks with smart card technology.
There are numerous cycling routes in the city as well as an easy
connection to a more relaxing ride along the nearby canal.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Fun, Fun, Fun.
The rue de la Soif (street of thirst) is the nickname locals call rue St-Michel.
Filled with bars and beer, it's a can't miss street of rollicking good times.
Pull up a chair and watch the show.

France is a country known for its love of festivals and Rennes has its share.
The Fest-Noz is a fun fest of music, dance and celebration.
It combines traditional Breton music, costuming and dance in a
manner that is more rock 'n roll than old-fashioned folk.

Les Tombées de la Nuit (Nightfall Festival) brings a lot of artistic
surprises and revelry to city streets every summer,
showcasing daring displays of performance street art.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Photo by Edouard Hue - CC-BY-SA 2.0
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Market Day was one of the highlights of our trip.
Saturday morning in Rennes always starts with a blowout marché
on Place des Lices in the central historical district.

  The plaza is filled with gorgeous fruit and vegetables, offered by local producers.
Start your day off right with a wonderfully evil & buttery kouign-amann,
Brittany's most famous pastry, resolving never again to eat pastry outside of France.

    There are two huge indoor halls with every foodstuff known to mankind and the chance to get a closeup look at local life in Brittany.
Marvel at seafood stalls that actually smell good -- and start planning your lunch....

Speaking of food, Rennes will feed you in a way you will never forget.
  Every Breton specialty is offered -- DON'T MISS MY FAVORITE, GALETTES SAUCISSE CREPES* -- as well as a very diverse selection of other cuisines.
We enjoyed dinner one night in an upscale wine bistro and another
 time a feast of couscous royale in a very authentic Moroccan restaurant.
These meals and good times will be remembered forever.

*Galettes Saucisse Crepes - grilled merguez sausage nestled in a buckwheat pancake.
 
Best Street Food Ever!

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Under the youthful night sky of Rennes, I was happy to put away
my adult compulsion to behave at all costs.
  Being a kid again is a relief and though I doubt we could keep up with the
party outside our door, we had a very fine time crossing the line.

"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria."
Benjamin Franklin

My favorite journal entry simply says
"We did a lot of nothing and it was a very good day."
For this pushy, restless, always-on-the-go travel zealot, that says a lot.


Our endless search for life balance -- you know, broadening our horizons
and prioritizing our spiritual health -- can be won as easily
 as finding a connection to a great neighborhood in a big-hearted city.
And for that, you cannot go wrong with remarkable Rennes.


"And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one more for dessert."
Kris Kristofferson, songwriter 'Sunday Morning Coming Down'

Picture
1 Comment

Bountiful Beautiful Brittany

1/8/2015

0 Comments

 
Picture
The region of Brittany, called Bretagne in France, is known for its rugged coastline,
stunning beaches, towering platters of just-caught seafood,
buckwheat crepes and curiously quaint lace headdress.

But to me, Brittany is France-on-Viagra.


This farfetched land of superabundance is too-too spectacular to render in plain English.
It's a Celtic cocktail of Alice in Wonderland, King Arthur's Court and Dorothy's OZ.
  If you follow 'the yellow brick road' to this enchanting paradise,
  you'll find great adventure and a fistful of fond memories.

The reference to King Arthur isn't just an exaggerated
aggrandizement of all-things-France.
  Merlin and Arthur purportedly made headlines right here.
  The forest of Paimpont, referred to as Brocéliande in Arthurian legend,
  is located in the fairytale woodland of inner Brittany. 

Confused?  King Arthur's Merlin in France? 
Back in the day, legend has it that petite Bretagne (little Britain) is where
Merlin made magic with his lady-in-the-lake, Viviane.

  And I'm here to tell you, it would take a wizard to come up with a vacation spot like this.

Picture
First, the coastline. 
For starters, it's long - 1800 miles worth of golden beaches and ports,
dramatic rocky bays, savage seas and a surplus of islands -- over 800 (!) of them.
  An embarrassment of riches.

Names like the Cote d'Emeraude (Emerald Coast) and the Cote de Granit Rose
(Pink Granite Coast) conjure up visions of natural beauty that are
even more pleasing than their pretty names suggest.
  Cotes d'Amour conjures up love and seduction, swanky villas and pristine resorts.
Use your imagination ..... What else do you need to start packing?

Picture
Rennes is the capitol and one that doesn't disappoint.
  Filled with youth and vigor, it's home to about 50,000 students who
populate its fun sidewalk cafés and bustling bars.
It's quirky and inelegant -- just right for a quick escape from sophisticated Paris.
Do NOT miss the weekly market, one of the best in all of France.

  The small city of Vannes is both lively and lovely as are the more famous
Breton towns of St-Malo, artistic Pont-Aven and legendary Mont St-Michel.

And then there's historic Dinan.
Please get out your highlighter pen so you don't miss it.
  Timber-frame houses -- a crooked little river -- fortified walls
encircle an engaging chateau -- winding little streets
festooned with flowers -- all cuter than a baby's bottom --
  Dinan will be a shoo-in on your short list of Best of France towns.

Brittany, like so much of France, boasts a wealth of chateaux where
  castles and royal ruins pop up on nearly every corner of the region. 
The Chateau of Fougères stands mostly in ruin but, lucky for us, enough stones
  prevail to breathe life into a memorable visit as you contemplate life in medieval times.
  Castles at Josselin and Vitré are both worth a tour; not only are they perfectly wonderful examples of Breton art and architecture, but the towns in which they reside are splendid 
little stops to catch your breath and have a look around in a local bookstore or café.

Picture

There are too many towns to mention -- but please try to put a few on your list of must-sees. 

Quimper, best known for its markets and faience -- charming, handmade
ceramic pottery -- still produces the decidedly country french collectible.


The town of Auray boasts a neighborhood called St. Goustan which I featured
in a blog about Lafayette and the American connection -- and that's exactly
what you'll find in this adorable river town that looks like a movie set
waiting for its celebrated leading man, Benjamin Franklin.

Beautiful Belle-Ile, justifiably the most famous of Brittany's many islands,
was once the hideaway of legendary actress Sarah Bernhardt.
If you have the time to laze about for a few days, put it on your radar.

Less known but equally amazing is tiny Ile de Brehat.
  It's yea big and lushly green, but what surprises most is the beautiful QUIET
that sets it apart from most harbors where the table is set for tourism.
  No cars, no engines, no sounds except nature.
Imagine what the world used to sound like.
It will take you by surprise.
  Sweet silence, uncommon sunsets -- what more can you hope for --
and you can see most of it in only a few short hours.

Bird life is staggering in Brittany and you should treat
yourself to a tour around the island of Sept-Iles. 
All manner of birds are protected, including
  a wondrous peek at local puffins and gray seals.
  But that's Brittany, a party around every corner.


A completely different kind of eye-opener, Brittany's famous calvaries,
granite platforms that tell the story of Christ & His Passion, are
dotted along the most traditional parts of the region. 
This is the Finistère, where the isolated Breton language was still spoken
during the first half of the 20th century and ladies in lace caps reign supreme.
  They keep the faith and cultural identity alive with their own brand
of costume, dance, music and saintly festivals.
  Oddly gray and haunting -- but beautiful nonetheless -- you won't regret one minute
of the area's individuality so completely set apart from the rest of France.
  If you like original, you'll enjoy Finistère's complex character.

Picture
Butter.
  Did I mention butter?
  Salted butter puts the essence of Brittany into all things deliciously Breton.
It's an independent cuisine, certainly set apart from the rest of France.
If there's one thing to taste here, it's the butter.

You're probably already familiar with salted caramels from this
region (much imitated world-wide) but have you ever
taken a heavenly bite out of a Kouign amann? 
Don't worry, no one knows how to pronounce it, just drool and they'll figure it out.
  This pastry is so full of caramelized butter, I don't understand how it holds its parts together.
  Butter, sugar, and heaven -- a simple recipe.

  The same Breton butter marries with little rye rounds
served alongside just plucked fresh oysters.
  Brittany's gourmet butter goes a long way into making their other
claim to fame -- buckwheat galettes, peerless in the crepe category,
filled with any one of a number of local savory ingredients.
So as you taste test a new part of France and discover its traditional,
often times conservative cuisine,
look first for the delectable, cream filled butter.

The salt marshes of Guérande are nearby, home to another Brittany Best. 
Fleur de sel is the most celebrated of the lot, revered by top chefs around the world.
You can also find sacks and jars of the coarse gray stuff from the same waters -- all winners.  
From culinary artists to culinary wannabes like me, you'll soon rely on the
indispensable commodity from this particular corner of France.

Rich in minerals, there are no additives and all you'll taste is the clean
  suggestion of the wild Atlantic, elevating the flavor of every bite it touches.

Picture
Picture
Picture
One of the things I love most about travel is the chance to see something
totally unexpected, to have a mind-blowing experience that isn't anticipated.

  I knew that Carnac, near the Morbihan coast, was
famous for prehistoric, megalithic remains.
  Sounds mildly boring but at least worthy of a quick look, right?
  This little stretch of Brittany is not just interesting; it rendered me speechless.
  I was expecting some rocks -- aligned of course and kind of meaningful
for their testament to history and the presumed spirituality of the scene -- but
I was not prepared for fields of these things. 
Literally THOUSANDS of them.

  Is Carnac a holy place?
  I'm not sure -- but I will tell you this.
    It gave me the heebee jeebies -- in  a good way.
  If rows of isolated neolithic monuments is not your cup of tea, I understand.
Initially I felt the same way -- until I saw them silently standing, in perfect parallel lines.
  Eerily mesmerizing, their puzzle is one you'll long to solve. 
That's when I made the effort to learn a little about dolmens and menhirs
and words I had absolutely no interest in previously. 
Trust me, it's the best kind of whodunit and even Sherlock Holmes (preferably
Benedict Cumberbatch) couldn't come up with who-what-when-where-why.

  Suffice it to say,
A Worthwhile Stop.

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
If you're looking for a fresh look at France or at life in general, search no further.
  The Brittany experience is fresher than the seafood you'll soon be gorging on.

  Go ahead, overindulge.
Unprocessed, genuine, original.
This region will delight you in a tickle-me-Elmo way. 
Brittany, it's a giggle -- and a sure thing.


Go for it!
Picture
Picture
0 Comments

Don't Eat the First One!

8/25/2014

3 Comments

 
Picture
Just like Mom's -- there's nothing better!
One of my favorite childhood memories is of my French mama standing at the stove flipping crêpes and fussing at me, "Don't eat the first one."  She insisted the first crêpe of the batch wasn't any good.  I would assert it was perfect as I quickly grabbed it, relishing my favorite treat. We'd go through the same dance every time.

Her crêpes were perfect, thin and crispy on the outside, soft and comforting on the inside.
  I'd sprinkle a spoonful of sugar on each one, roll it up and pop it in my mouth,
savoring each bite as if it were made by Escoffier himself.


Pretending to eat daintily at first, with each subsequent bite my addiction
took over until I became more like Homer Simpson in both manners and expanding belly.
  I would sit for as long as she was willing to twirl the batter into the hot skillet, wait until the undercarriage was slightly browned and crisp and gracefully flip it in the air to finish.
  My brother and I competed to see who could eat the most.  By the time our crêpe feast was over, we would both be a bit wired from the combination of the carbs and sugar.

Mom would finally sit down to eat the last crêpe and complain "Oh, this batch isn't very good."  Every time.

Picture
I hate making crêpes.  There, I've said it.
For someone who loves to cook, crêpe-making should be a no-brainer.
Milk, flour, eggs and butter form the base and it's just a matter of whipping them up, letting them set up (oh, the patience part, there lies the problem) and then practicing my swirl and flip.
  Ugh.  Not my thing.  Didn't inherit the crêpe-creating gene.  But I sure like eating them.

In France, crêpes are as popular as ever.
  An original French "fast food" staple, you'll spot a crêperie in just about
every town, particularly in the region of Brittany, where they're
called galettes.
  The chief ingredient in a galette (sometimes called blé noir) is buckwheat flour
which gives them a heartier look, darker and somehow more serious than
their flour-based counterparts but oh, they taste like heaven!
  They're still thin as a movie starlet, and delicately gauzy as the lace curtains in most of the local establishments.  I guess the Breton talent for lace-making translates to their favorite food.

  Filled with pretty much anything you choose -- but hold on, not too much! -- these crêpes are my 2nd favorite (after Mom's, of course!).  The locals wash them down with cider, usually a slightly alcoholic version, served in pretty bowls instead of cups.  One time I made a mistake, ordering a glass of wine in a tiny crêperie in Auray and got a funny look from the server.
He was apologetic after I tasted the vinegar he served and tried to explain
it's probably been behind the bar for several years.
Lesson learned.  Drink what the locals drink.
p.s. Brittany is the only region in France that doesn't make wine. Duh!

Picture
A hearty galette is perfect any time of the day
Dessert crepes.
  I forgot to mention my mother's crêpes suzette, the wildly boozy, show-off version of crêpes.  When I was growing up, she used to make them for my boyfriends.
  Now you know how I got a date every Saturday night...

Julia Child made them famous here in America.
  Who can forget how easy she made it look, just a little extra sugar, butter, o.j.
and orange peel with a dose of brandy and poof -- it flames tableside.
  Great show, great taste of France.


Other French chefs make fancy savory versions, filled with ham and gruyere cheese, rolled and topped with tons of cream and baked in a hot oven --- over the top delicious!

A good crêpe will cure anything.

Crèpes are for breakfast, lunch or dinner.  Any time is the right time.
  And kids love them!  It's a great way to introduce your child to new foods.
  No box to open, no weird ingredients, just wholesome goodness.
  And, admit it, they're a little bit sexy.  Pick one up and feed it to your partner.
  Go ahead, call it a French kiss.


Picture
Have you ever heard of socca?
It's a crêpe made famous in the south of France, specifically in Nice.
  A simple combination of chickpea flour, olive oil and salt & pepper on a very hot griddle does the trick - et voila, you have an amazing treat.
  Highly recommended.

Picture
Ultra-thin socca is a chickpea sensation in Provence
Picture
Picture
Crêperies are a welcome escape from fancy food and high prices
It seems that every culture around the world boasts their own interpretation of the crêpe.
  Toad-in-the-hole from Great Britain, dosas from India, scallion pancakes from China,
tiganites from Greece and palacsinta (fabulous, often filled with poppy seeds and
sugared cottage cheese) from Hungary just to name a few.
I love a good Dutch Baby recipe -- sort of a souffléd crêpe baked in a
hot cast iron skillet and filled with apples or berries.

My other crêpe-related childhood memories include pancake breakfasts at church.
These were not remotely thin nor were they french.
They were hearty, made in the American/Swedish/German manner.
  The pancakes were out of this world and so much fun, heaped with maple syrup and love.

Here in Nashville, we have a wildly popular eatery called Pancake Pantry.  There's always a long line of hungry diners outside the door, waiting to get their favorite version of more than a dozen different choices.  It's a staple for both locals and out-of-town guests.  I can't bring myself to try their version of crêpes but I've eaten my fill of good old American-style pancakes and am especially fond of their potato version. With more than a dozen interpretations of pancakes a few of their popular choices include sweet potato pancakes, blintzes, and Pigs in a Blanket.  Who knows, you might even run into Taylor Swift or Vince Gill while you're there.

In Music City we also have a suspiciously named pancake of sorts called the hoecake. Decidedly southern and sometimes referred to as a johnnycake, it is decidedly not healthy, especially when cooked in bacon grease à la Paula Deen, a popular southern-fried chef.
  Hoe cakes are deliciously cornmeal based, a real treat.  They're about as far from a crêpe as any pancake I know but I still recommend a nibble if you're up for a taste of the old South.

Picture
Here's a fun crêperie we visited in Collioure, France with a bus inside the restaurant!
Picture
Typical Breton bowls
Back to my favorites pancake of all, crêpes -- in my favorite city of all,
Paris, where there is much to celebrate.
The Montparnasse neighborhood in particular is a beehive of crêpe activity.
Traditionally, Breton natives would leave their villages in Brittany, bound for the big city,
arrive at gare Montparnasse where they would set up traditional shops nearby selling
their famous nourishment. 
You can't walk very far in the neighborhood without
running into a favorite crêperie in the charismatic streets surrounding the train station.

There are dozens of crêpe restaurants in Paris, including street vendors.
Parisians generally don't walk and eat but you'll see plenty of tourists doing that,
holding their banana and nutella paper-wrapped treasures
and looking very
pleased as they stroll and munch.
  It's a true portrait of Paris.

Whether you're in Brittany, Nashville or Paris -- or Budapest or Hong Kong
for that matter, enjoy one of life's most perfect treats, the crêpe. 

W.C. Fields once said,
"The laziest man I ever met put popcorn in his pancakes
so they would turn over by themselves."

Me:  "Hmmm, would that work with crêpes, too?"

OK, probably not.
Guess I'm forced to go back to Paris to get my sweet fix.
A bientot, I'm packing my bags right now!


Picture
Picture
3 Comments

Vacation Nation

8/6/2014

0 Comments

 
Picture
Wind down your crazy lifestyle in Beautiful Brittany.
Sometimes even a blog about All-Things-Paris needs to get out of town.

  It's time for the annual migration from Paris to another favorite French vacation destination. 

Where do Paris locals go?  The United States?  Morocco?  China?
Well, yes, some do travel overseas.  But in large part, French people remain in France.
  They know the options for a memorable vacation are heart-stopping.


I
t's no secret that France is considered a Vacation Nation.
Not just a destination for world travelers, but also the primary
landing pad of choice for its own populace.
  Over 80% of the French community remain in France for their vacation.
  With 31 days of mandatory paid vacation, the French are fans
of getaways that offer a variety of temptations.
My insider secret: When traveling, I look for something a French national might want to do.

France offers vacation destinations around every corner and over every hill of La Hexagon.

  Beach vacation?  Checkmate, opportunities overflow - the  Atlantic,
  the Mediterranean, multiple island adventures and more.

  Is cooking your interest? Or history?  You'll discover a 2-for-1 in Normandy - Susan Hermann Loomis for cooking school and Normandy Beaches for history.

  Fantasize about a mountain immersion?  You can't beat the Pyrenees and the Alps
but don't discount the Vosges range either.

  City breaks include Montpellier, Strasbourg, Toulouse, Lyon and Nantes just to name a few.
Dijon, Avignon, Rennes, Narbonne, and Lille are all great memory-makers.

  Or an all-eating vacay, now that's up my alley.  The Perigord region conquers all.  But then again, Basque cuisine is tip-top as well. Oh yeah, and Provence & Languedoc....  But don't stop there.  You'll find a special spot for whatever special interest stops your heart.


Picture
It's well known that most Parisians can't wait to get out
of the big city in the summer.

Learn from the locals.  Take a train, plane or automobile and find a new favorite.
Grow your French Fantasy in new directions.


Most Frenchmen and women choose either July or August for their big vacances.
  The kids are out of school, the weather is good, and everything quiets down
(or shutters up) in Paris.  Whether they choose a glamorous hideaway or stick to
a camping budget, they tend to look for the simple pleasures -- eating, drinking,
enjoying the great outdoors or finding a favorite festival.
  We just witnessed the 101st Tour de France.
  Did you notice how many campers were out in full force?
The good things in life are celebrated by the carload.

 
Picture

Vacation in France is an excuse to eat.  To eat well.  Imagine fresh oysters plucked off the coast of Brittany, their salty brine so full of fresh sea flavor, you eat until you burst.
Or how about a Charentais melon, bursting with a flavor so unconditionally
fresh, you'll vow never again to touch another grocery store replica.
While many bistros close for 4 or 5 weeks in Paris, the rest of the country seems
to offer extended hours and enhanced promotion during the peak vacation months.

Picture
There's a history lesson on offer wherever you land on your French vacation.
  You'll see history buffs everywhere.
  French people are addicted to their own narrative, cultivating their
kids' education at every turn.  Museums, aquariums, forts, chateaux are all part of
the framework of their annual R and R. 
Picture
Rennes is too much fun -- full of youthful energy and a fantastic market.
Islands.  I love just saying the word.  In France, islands are everywhere.  Check out the islands of Brittany for a change of pace. There are many to choose from including Belle Ile, Bréhat (my husband calls it Land of the Giants due to the massive size - a la Jack & the Beanstalk - of the plant life), and Les Sept-Iles, an incredible bird sanctuary, home to thousands of our
feathered friends including, much to my surprise, puffins.

Picture
Gigantic Plant Life is GORGEOUS!
Today's photo-trip is to Brittany.  Notice the diversity.
  Brittany is not just about good looks.  There's zero chance for boredom with everything from pristine beaches and islands to impossibly unique menhirs and dolmens at Carnac (over 3,000 standing stones!) and religious chapels, abbeys and monasteries sprinkled throughout.  Impossibly delicious buckwheat galettes and towering shellfish platters. Boats, birds and fortresses will melt your heart and make sure you return again next year.

Think about planning your vacation in the manner of the Slow Travel movement
and spend some quality time here.  Save Provence for another day.

When you concentrate on one region at a time, you're much more likely to feel satisfied than driving all the way across France in pursuit of a lengthy list
designed to impress your neighbors but likely to make you feel tired and unfulfilled.

Picture
Not any old crèpe, a galette is Brittany's buckwheat cousin.


Remember the State Fair?  No matter where you're from, you probably
have a childhood memory of funnel cakes, corn dogs, unconventional
but interesting fair fans, farm animals and carnival rides.
  The French enjoy festivals, too, where they're as varied and unforgettable as any you'll ever find.  Each festival has a theme and in the summer months you'll find everything to celebrate.  Champagne, jazz, gardens, garlic, onions, the list is long.  You'll find a festival somewhere in France celebrating just about everything.
  The French word for fun is amusement.
Makes sense.  Get Happy. 
Picture
When you feel the weight of the world on your shoulders,
it's time to plan some quality time in France.
Unstructured time. Just let it happen.

  Paris is the #1 destination and as delightful as anything.
  Except when it isn't.

Just like a Parisian, you'll know when.  Traffic, smog, busy people can overwhelm.
  Why not try something different?  Take a breather, simmer down, find yourself.
The French countryside delivers.
  You'll feel like a better person in BEAUTIFUL FRANCE.


Picture
Picture
Puffins in France? Oui, bien sûr!
0 Comments

Lafayette and The Americans

7/28/2014

1 Comment

 
Picture
You may wonder why a village in Brittany is the setting for a story about Lafayette (as he is known in America).  This is the Saint-Goustan quarter of Auray, a beautiful town situated on the Auray River, far from the action of the Revolutionary War.  It's unlikely that Major General Lafayette ever visited but he was the brains and the name behind the landing of
a very famous American on these shores.

Saint-Goustan welcomed American founding father Benjamin Franklin as he arrived to ask for support for the New World's fight against the tyranny of the British.  It was December of 1776 when Franklin disembarked on the banks of the river town.  Lafayette was instrumental in pushing for this support from the crown (King Louis XVI) of France.  He used every bit of his own influence to beg for cash, arms and bodies to help America win her fight.

It seems like every other business in this town is named after the famous American.  It's particularly perplexing that American visitors are more likely to find their former foe, the British who seem to favor this part of France, than their own American counterparts at this moving historical site.  You'll rub your eyes as you see the name Benjamin Franklin on practically every corner of the village.  The large and inviting cobbled square is a wonderful place to relax and contemplate the long-lasting friendship of France with the U.S.A.
Picture
Known in France as the Marquis de La Fayette (note the separation of La & Fayette), Gilbert du Motier was an aristocrat who hailed from the Auvergne region.
  Born to a wealthy and titled French family, he was more interested in the fresh ideals of American independence from the British than he was
in his own birth country's causes.  Joining the American Revolution at the age of 19,
he served at his own expense, including buying the very ship that brought him
(and many other Frenchmen) to our shores.

  During America's Revolutionary War, he become the right hand of another American hero, General George Washington.  He distinguished himself at the Battle of Brandywine where he fought alongside General Washington (and was promoted to Major General) and at the Siege of Yorktown where he battled it out with Cornwallis.

Lafayette was enamored with the whole idea of America's independence and democracy.
  "The Hero of Two Worlds" brought these principles back to France to help influence their transition from the reign of kings.  He wrote a large portion of France's Declaration of the Rights of Man & of the Citizen with the help of his good friend and ally, Thomas Jefferson.


Sadly, Lafayette found himself in dire straits during the French Revolution where he spent more than 5 years in prison during their Reign of Terror.  Napoleon Bonaparte stepped up to release and recognize the imprisoned frenchman so he could continue good works to aid mankind. 
Picture
Benjamin Franklin at Court in France
Picture
Both Presidents held Lafayette in High Regard
PictureAuray is so beautiful, it may hurt your eyes!
Lafayette was an abolitionist, arguing to end the slave trade in both America and France.  He urged George Washington to abolish the practice and establish former slaves
as tenant farmers.

General Lafayette paid homage to his commander, the 1st American president,
by naming his son after him - George Washington de La Fayette.  Many towns in the U.S. have paid their respects to the French commander by naming towns,
streets and squares after him.

He received an honorary degree from Harvard as well as full American citizenship.

Buried in Paris, Lafayette is interred in a small cemetery in the 12th arrondissement.  Picpus Cemetery is better known as the resting place of 16 Carmelite nuns who went singing to their deaths in the murderous summer of 1794.  Some 1300 people are buried in a mass grave at Picpus, all of them decapitated during the reign of terror.  The soil on and around the general's grave was taken from Bunker Hill.
  He rests in peace, forever a friend to America and a reminder of the ties that bind France and the U.S.A.

Picture
Celebrating American independence, immortalized at Galerie David d'Angers in the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Angers.
The man who wanted France to follow America's example was given full funeral honors by American President Andrew Jackson.  Flags were flown at half-mast for 35 days and many
U.S. citizens wore black in his honor for a full month just as they did when they honored both President Washington and President John Adams.

Lafayette, George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson
are forever our honored heroes in the fight for independence.
  So, too, should we pay our respects to the history that took place
in the little French village of Auray.
Make sure to stop at the Saint-Goustan quarter on your next trip to France and think of a
brave American and a brave Frenchman who conspired to win support for the cause of
liberty in the New World.


Merci, General Lafayette, for your help in securing our freedom.
Picture
1 Comment
    Picture

    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

    Archives

    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014


    RSS Feed

    Click below to buy
    The Paris Effect 
    book today
    Enter your email address to receive blog updates -
    Subscribe Now
    Buy Now

    Categories

    All
    100th Blog
    20th Arrondissement
    Abbaye De Fontfroide
    Absinthe
    Academie De La Grande Chaumière
    Adrian Leeds
    Aix-en-Provence
    Albi
    Aligot
    Alsace
    Ambassade D'Auvergne
    Amboise
    American History
    American Revolution
    Amphitheatre
    Antibes
    Apartments
    Aperitif
    April In Paris
    Arc De Triomphe Du Carrousel
    Architecture
    Arena De Nimes
    Ariége
    Armenian Cathedral Of Paris
    Art
    Art Deco
    Artistic Paris
    Artlover
    Art Museum
    Art Nouveau
    Atonement Chapel
    Auray
    Avenue Foch
    Avenue Frochot
    Avignon
    Baccarat
    Baden-Baden
    Baguette
    Basque
    Bayeux Tapestry
    B&B
    Benjamin Franklin
    Bénodet
    Bercy Village
    Biarritz
    Biot
    Biot France
    Bistros
    Bonbons
    Books Set In France
    Boulangerie
    Brassaï
    Brittany
    Brittany American Cemetery
    Burgundy
    Cagnes-sur-Mer
    Cakes
    Canal Du Midi
    Candy
    Cap D'Antibes
    Caracalla Spa
    Caramels
    Catalan France
    Cathars
    Cathedral
    Cathedrale St-Just
    Cemetière De Passy
    Cemetière Saint-Vincent
    Chantilly
    Chapelle Expiatoire
    Chapelle Saint Vincent De Paul
    #Chapel Of Hospice Saint-Jean
    Charles Aznavour
    Charles Trenet
    Chartreuse Du Val-de-Benediction
    Chateau
    Chateau De Clisson
    Chateau De Foix
    Chateau De Fougeres
    Chateau De Malmaison
    Chateau Grimaldi
    Cheese
    Chinon
    Chocolate
    Choice Vs. Chance
    Christian Constant
    #Church Of Saint-Volusien
    Cimiez
    Cité Des Fleurs
    Cité De Trevise
    Claude Monet
    Clisson
    Cocktail
    Coco Chanel
    Cognac
    Cointreau
    Cole Porter
    Comedie-Francaise
    Cote D'Azur
    Coulon
    Cours Mirabeau
    Cours Saleya
    Coussin De Lyon
    Crêpes
    Dessert
    Dijon
    Dreams
    Duck-confit
    Eating In France
    Ecole Des Beaux-Arts
    Ed Clark
    Edith-piaf
    Eglise Notre Dame De Clisson
    Eglise Sainte-Trinité
    Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés
    Elsa Maxwell
    Entrevaux
    Environmental Challenges
    Eric Kayser
    Eugene Delacroix
    Fabergé Museum
    Falling For Paris
    Famous-faces
    Fashion History
    Fauchon
    Fernand Léger
    Fete De La Transhumance
    Fête De Vendanges
    Fish Specialties
    Foix
    Folies Bergère
    Fontainebleau
    Fontaine Du Palmier
    Food Markets
    Fougeres
    Fragrance
    France
    Francois-premier
    Free Museums
    French Atlantic Coast
    French Bread
    French Cuisine
    French Food
    French-food
    French History
    French-islands
    French Musee D'Art Moderne De La Ville De Paris
    French Music
    French Resistence
    French Revolution
    #FrenchRiviera
    French Riviera
    French Slave Trade
    Friedrichsbad Spa
    Fun Fair Museum
    Genevieve De Gaulle-Anthonioz
    Genièvre
    George Sand
    Germaine Tillion
    Germany
    Gertrude Stein
    Gordes
    Grand Mosque Of Paris
    Grand Palais
    Grasse
    Guerlain
    Gustave Moreau
    Harvest Festival
    Haut-de-Cagnes
    Healthy Travel
    Hediard
    Henri Le Roux
    Henri Matisse
    Holocaust
    Hometown Memories
    Hotel Belles Rives
    Hôtel De Soubise
    Hotel Dieu
    Hotels
    Ile De Bréhat
    Ile De Ré
    Isadora Duncan
    Jacques Genin
    Janet Flanner
    Jardin Samuel-de-Champlain
    Jay Z
    Jazz A Juan
    Jean Seberg
    Jewelry
    Josephine Baker
    Josephine Bonaparte
    Juan-les-Pins
    Keith Haring
    La Campagne A Paris
    La Couveroitade
    Lafayette
    La Jourrnée San Voiture
    Lalique
    Language Skills
    Languedoc
    La Rochelle
    La Verrerie De Biot
    Lavinia Wine Store
    Le Bonbon Au Palais
    Le Bon Georges
    Le Capitole
    Le Carrousel Des Mondes Marins
    Le Clos Lucé
    Le Cochon à L'Oreille
    Le Coq Rico
    Legendary Lovers
    Le Grand Véfour
    Le Musée Montmartre
    Leonardo Da Vinci
    Le Rostand
    Les Cocottes
    Les Fauves
    Les Invalides
    Les Machines De L'Ile
    Les Sept Iles
    Lichtentaler Allee
    Lille
    Little Gourmand
    Loire Atlantique
    Luberon
    Luxembourg Gardens
    Maison Carrée
    Malmaison
    Man Ray
    Marais Poitevin
    Marc Chagall
    Marché Beauvau
    Marché D'Aligre
    Marché President Wilson
    Marché Victor Hugo
    Marie Curie
    Market Street
    Marquis De Lafayette
    Matisse
    Maurice Utrillo
    Medieval Festival
    Medieval France
    Memorial De L'Abolition De L'Esclavage
    Memorial De La Shoah
    MFK Fisher
    Minervois Wine
    #ModernArt
    Monolithic Church
    Montmartre
    Montmartre Museum
    Montparnasse
    Montparnasse Cemetery
    Montpellier
    Movies Set In France
    Musee Carnavalet
    Musée De La Chasse Et De La Nature
    Musée Des Arts Decoritifs
    Musée Des Arts Forains
    Musée Des Beaux-Arts De Dijon
    Musee D'Orsay
    Musée D'Orsay
    Musee L'Orangerie
    Musée Marc Chagall
    Musee Marmottan Monet
    Musée Matisse Nice
    Musée Picasso
    Musée Yves Saint Laurent
    Museum
    Museum Of Decorative Arts
    Museum Of Hunting & Nature
    Museum Of Modern Art City Of Paris
    Nancy
    Nantes
    Napoleon Bonaparte
    Napoleon III Apartments
    Narbonne
    Nashville
    Natalie Portman
    Nazi Atrocities
    Nice
    Nice France
    Nimes
    Normandy
    Not-far-from-paris
    Not-far-from-paris
    Notre Dame De Lorette
    Notre Dame De Paris
    Occitanie
    #Occitanie
    Off-the-tourist-track
    Off-the-tourist-track
    Opera-garnier
    Operation Dragoon
    Oradoursurglane
    Our Lady Of Paris
    Palais Lascaris
    Palais Royal
    Paloma Beach
    Pancake
    Pancake Pantry
    Parade
    Parc De Bercy
    Paris
    Paris 1968
    Paris Arrondissements
    Paris Art Museum
    Paris Art Schools
    Paris At Home
    Paris Cafes
    Paris Fashion
    Paris Friend
    Paris Markets
    Paris Metro
    Paris Neighborhoods
    Paris Parks
    Paris Patisseries
    Paris Pets
    Paris Predestination
    Paris Retail Therapy
    Paris Travel
    Parks
    Passage Boudin
    Passerelle Simone De Beauvoir
    Pastis
    Patisserie
    Patricia Wells
    Paul Cezanne
    Perfume
    Pernes-les-Fontaines
    Pet Cemeteries
    Petit Palais
    Photography
    Picpus Cemetery
    Pinching Pennies
    Pink Granite Coast
    Place De Furstenberg
    Place De La Concorde
    Place Des Vosges
    Place Masséna
    Place Stanislaus
    Place Vendome
    Ploumanac'h
    Poilane
    Ponr Alexandre III
    Poster Art
    Promenade Des Anglais
    Provence
    #Provence
    Provence Markets
    Puffins
    Pyrenees-Orientales
    Rambouillet
    Raoul Dufy
    Regional Cooking
    Rennes
    Renoir
    Robert Doisneau
    Robert Wuhl
    Roquefort
    Rue Cler
    Rue Cremieux
    Rue De L'Eole Du Medecine
    Rue De Nil
    Rue Dénoyez
    Rue Des Ecoles
    Rue Des Martyrs
    Rue Irenee Blanc
    Rue Jules Siegfried
    Ruelle Des Chats
    Rue Montorgeuil
    Ruth
    Saintdenis
    Saint-Emilion
    Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
    Saint-Etienne-du-Mont
    Sainteustache
    Saint-Goustan
    Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert
    Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
    Saint-Malo
    Saint-Medard Church
    Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
    Saint-Remy-de-Provence
    Saint-Vincent Cemetery
    Sculpture
    Senlis
    Serendipity
    Shopping
    Sliceoflife
    Slice Of Life
    Small Paris Pleasures
    Small Town Saturday Night
    Social Media
    So-Pi
    Springtime In Paris
    Square Des Peupliers
    Square Montsouris
    St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral
    Street Food
    Suzanne Valadon
    Suzy Solidor
    Sylvia Beach
    Texas
    The Avignon Papacy
    The-dreyfus-affair
    The Hunchback Of Notre Dame
    The Louvre
    The Moose
    The National Archives
    The Pantheon
    The-paris-effect
    The Pink City
    Toulouse
    Toulouse-Lautrec
    Tourrettes-sur-Loup
    Travel
    Travel Advice
    Travel Planning
    Troyes
    U.N. World Climate Conference
    Urban Art
    Uzès
    Vacation
    Vacation Planning Food
    Vel D'Hiver
    Vichy
    Vieille Bourse
    Vieux Nice
    Villa Eilenroc
    Villefranche-de-Conflent
    Villeneuve-les-Avignon
    Vincent Van Gogh
    Walking
    Walking Paris
    Willi Ronis
    Wine
    Wine Festival
    WWII
    #WWII France
    WWII Paris
    WWII Provence
    Yachts
    Yves Saint Laurent

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.