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Collioure, Queen of The Côte Vermeille

4/30/2015

With her peaches-and-cream complexion and
radiant sunrise lighting up the cool blue sea,
Collioure is the picture of health and happiness.
Fanciful sherbet colored houses frame her beautiful portrait.
Just one look and you'll see why this southern belle wins my vote for
Homecoming Queen of France's Côte Vermeille.

Collioure has it all.
Beautiful looks, a good personality, and a resumé filled with artistic endorsements.
The pride of Roussillon is a name to remember even if it is hard to spell.
Practically on the doorstep of Spain, this Catalan-influenced town
has everything you need for a perfect seaside visit.

Where to start?
With the beach view of course:

Sparkling blue Mediterranean - ✓
Horseshoe-shaped bay - ✓
17th-century church built right into the sea - ✓
A castle with a view - ✓
A windmill and a fort in the near distance - ✓
Row after row of cafe chairs - ✓
Kids flying kites on the pebbled beach - ✓
Artists capturing the passionate landscape - ✓
Rugged mountains and flourishing vineyards surrounding it all - ✓

And just like the Homecoming Queen, I'm jealous.
Why not me?

No need to be bitter.
For it's alright, just standing in her shadow is enough.
A whiff of her perfume, a taste of her virtue and once again,
I'm happy just for the chance to get to know her.
Let her hog the spotlight.
I'm just here for the dance.

Collioure is like the pretty girl you always admired.
And once you get to know her, you'll like her even more.

Without a big cruise ship in sight, Collioure's harbor boasts shallow water and
a remarkable family-like atmosphere that's made for lazy days and no itinerary.
But just in case you go looking for one, you won't need to stray far.

Walk to the edge of the seafront and into a one-of-a-kind 17th-century church
where -- remarkably -- the foundation is built right into the sea.
With its high altar swimming in gold leaf, Notre-Dame-des-Anges
(Our Lady of the Angels) has somehow withstood the threat of the sea since 1684.
Its unmissable pink domed clock-tower was added in 1810 on
the remains of what used to be the village lighthouse.
The Sea and The Church, infinite, limitless.

My own experience here was not your standard church tour.
After three days of perfect sunshine, an angry storm whipped up very quickly
and we made a beeline for the covered sanctuary of this seaside house of prayer. Little did we expect such a full blown drama, audio special effects ordained
by wind, water and ancient stone walls surrounded on three sides by angry surf.
It turned into a real theater of God.
The sound effects inside the sacred space should be nominated for
Oscar honors -- Best Sound Effects in a disaster movie.
It was chilling and thrilling at the same time.
St. Vincent, protector of sailors and patron saint of Collioure, was nearby
keeping watch from his very own altar,
providing safe haven from the amphibious "attack".

When we finally left the soggy sanctuary, we headed straight to our
favorite café -- to launch ourselves back into tasting the sacred wines
of the region -- but not before we ran into an elderly gentleman
all decked out in -- ??? -- scuba diving gear.
Yep, just walking down the street and no one seemed to notice.
Except us.
He didn't look like he was heading to or from the water -- just
like maybe he was hanging out and making his way to dinner.
I guess the wind can whip up more than just Mary Poppins.

Across the bay, you'll discover the summer residence of the Kings of Mallorca.
The Chateau Royal de Collioure is a medieval castle
with top notch views of the bay and a long and complicated history.

Its foundation has been home to Roman conquerors, the kings of Aragon
and the crusading Knights Templar, who allegedly brought back
many riches from the holy city of Jerusalem.

When the present castle-fortress was finally built by the Kings of Mallorca,
Collioure was fast becoming the most important port in Roussillon.
Although bare of castle furniture and typical royal accoutrements,
it's well worth a look.
Old stones, classic arches, iron gates, wooden beams,
and secret doors & tunnels provide the backbone for an imaginative visit.
The view alone is worth the small price of admission but there's a bonus, too.
A very nice exhibit of art - mostly paintings - is on hand to put you
in the mood for more of Collioure's boundless beauty.

As you may have noticed by now, I'm a gourmand,
a glutton really, when it comes to French food.
The cuisine of this region has distinct Catalan panache with a pinch
of Mediterranean flair and a strong core of French finesse.

The food is fresh, bold and colorful.
Seafood, naturally, is the big draw but you can choose from all manner
of local specialties with tastes as bright and fresh as the town itself.
My personal favorite is a dessert called Crème Catalan,
first cousin to crème brulée but with a twist.
This burnt cream replaces the vanilla of crème brulée with
sunlit flavors of the local lemon and orange.
In one nearby town, I think I even detected a bit of fennel as well.

The local market is a sight to see, a masterpiece of color and variety.
Held twice weekly, local producers set up underneath the shade of
beautiful plane trees, a pretty picture, no doubt, for your memory bank.

This is a town that combines art & cuisine, always a perfect pair.
At hotel/restaurant Les Templiers, good taste comes in two
varieties, one taste for your appetite and the other for your eyes.
With over 2,000 works of artists lining every wall,
Les Templiers is a place where art and gastronomy meet for dinner.
Think about it.
How many times have you stopped in your favorite local
hangout to find an original Picasso hanging behind the bar?
This is a remarkable place.
Famed modernist artists like Picasso, Raoul Dufy, and Mucha gifted
some of their best work, many in repayment for food and lodging.

Such a unique setting, don't miss it!

Wine & Anchovies.
Come again?

Collioure produces its own namesake appellation - red, rosé and
white but may be best known for its fortified sweet wine,
Banyuls -- a bright taste of the sun you'll long remember.

This setting was meant for long stretches of café sitting with nothing
but a glass of wine and a smile on your face.
But you may have to wait.
One fine evening, in the mood for something liquid, we stopped by a local café
just as the owner and his barkeep sat down to dinner and a televised rugby match.
Soon, we were both charmed and a bit ticked off.
Not only did they keep us us waiting well over thirty minutes
while they finished their dinner, but they also kept everyone else
on ice --- and no one seemed remotely upset.
I guess food and rugby make for powerful allies and
all who root for the same team are co-conspirators.
It didn't take long to get happy though, as we were soon invited
into the loving fold of the sports crazed fans and the wine flowed on.....

Anchovies, the most misunderstood of fish, is a superstar in Collioure.
You either love 'em or hate 'em, right?
This is the place to get over your childhood aversion to the underrated little fishies. Here you have the chance to eat them fresh -- and yes, they're delicious,
a real gourmet treat -- but the story doesn't end here.

You can see how anchovies are preserved and canned
at a company called Roque not far from the center of town.
It may not sound like one of the most riveting activities (and it's not)
but it's pretty cool to see rows of intensely focused women
hand filet, salt and pack the petite treats into their little tin coffins.
Who knew??
You can purchase the company wares on the spot and hey,
you've got your Christmas list half finished by then....☺

Artists have long flocked to Collioure for inspiration and acclaimed
light that masters of pigment & brush have so long sought out.
André Derain, Georges Braque, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso,
Raoul Dufy ...... the list of famous names who painted here is long.

The romance of this town, coupled with a transformational panorama
nearly too good to be true, made this a big draw for starving artists of the day.
I think it's safe to say that Collioure made the man in more than one case.
It put money and fame into the pocket of several budding modernist artists
and even created its own movement (Fauvism) of the day.

These so-called "wild beasts" didn't consider painting by the numbers
of the old masters, inspired as they were by the savage landscape.
Their wild displays of raw Collioure showed off the brilliant sky and sea,
the red roofs and the white sails -- color color color!
They sought to capture a freedom and ease with no concern for order or rules.
It was all saturated pigment and strong brushstrokes -- and when these
paintings finally made their way to Paris, they caused a sensation -- as well
as alarm -- for they were part of a new order that pushed the art world
into virgin territory that few could have imagined.

When you visit Collioure, you'll soon discover what spurred this impulse.
An artist's parade of empty frames have been strategically placed
throughout the city so visitors like you can picture exactly what
Collioure's famed artists saw as they painted.
Perhaps you'll discover your own genius.

And don't miss the local artist studios either.
Bring home your own piece of this paradise.

That's the true spirit of Collioure.
Sensational. Optimistic. Blessed.
It really is the Queen of the Côte Vermeille.

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A Triumphal March Through Time

4/23/2015

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I can spend an easy hour just staring at a map of Paris.
Plotting a new walking circuit is a pre-trip indulgence
that this Paris pioneer can't resist.
Sketching out a new walk fills me with anticipation and longing.

"It is good to have an end to journey toward;
but it is the journey that matters, in the end."
Ernest Hemingway

There are many faces of Paris - artistic, intellectual, fashionable, historic,
and every wander is filled with energy and creativity.
Paris Past, Paris Present and Paris Future fill your days with pleasure.
From grandest of the grand to little peeks at the more mundane,
the Paris map is a walker's dream come true.

It's probably safe to say that everyone who visits Paris
stops to study and admire the Arc de Triomphe, one of
the iconic monuments that put the P in Paris.
It simply can't be missed.
Always near the top of every travelers' list, it doesn't disappoint.

On the other side of the coin, you'll find a different giant,
La Grande Arche, the new face of monumental Paris.
Both sites are legendary, each an epic piece of the Paris narrative.

The big idea strikes!
As I study the map, searching for my next great Paris odyssey, I realize,
though I've been to both landmarks, I've never walked from one to the other.
It's a straight shot -- slightly less than three miles, an easy morning stroll.
How many times have I walked from the Arc de Triomphe,
down the Champs-Elysées, past Place de la Concorde and
on to the Louvre at the opposite end of the Historical Axis of Paris.
That stroll, too, is about a three mile trek.
The Triumphal Way.

Even though I've sashayed down every other grand avenue that
make up the famous spokes emanating from the Arc de Triomphe,
the one street I've somehow missed is the Avenue de la Grande Armée.
It's the broad boulevard (directly opposite the Champs-Elysées)
that leads to La Défense, the skyscraper-filled
business quarter that features La Grande Arche.

Such a simple plan, my mission is clear.
Follow the Axe Historique, the grand concept of what makes
Paris the one destination we can't get enough of.
Don't just see the sites, experience them.
Pursue the undiscovered places in-between.

From the past to the present and on to the future,
seek the transition, the progressive gallop we call history.

And it doesn't hurt to burn off some buttery croissant calories along the way.

Begin your walk with Paris past.
The Arc de Triomphe seems like a perfect place to start.
Gazing up at the majesty of Napoleon's triumphal arch always
makes me feel as if I have finally arrived.

Its gigantic scale serves as an anchor to not just the Champs-Elysées,
the grandest avenue in Paris, but also as the welcome mat to this great city.
Built to commemorate Napoleon's victories,
the Arc de Triomphe also serves as starting point and
backdrop to parades, sporting events, ceremonies and too many cars.

Planning and construction began in 1806, masterminded
by successful French architect Jean Chalgrin.
The masterpiece took 30 years (two years just to "plant" the foundation)
passing through a lot of different hands and political regimes.

Conceived by Napoleon to honor those who had given their lives
during his many bloody battles, the emperor himself didn't live
to see its completion although his remains passed through
its famous arched threshold in 1840.
Engraved with the names of 558 generals who died in combat under
his command, the monument speaks volumes about the glory of the
brave at the same time it reminds us of the tragic consequences of war.
Artful reliefs decorating the exterior mark the emperor's many campaigns,
the most famous being the Departure of the Volunteers by Francois Rude.

Below the famous arch stands the moving Tomb of the Unknown Soldier,
a tribute to unidentified soldiers who gave their lives to France in WWI and WWII.
On Armistice Day 1920, officials lit the first eternal flame in Europe
since the fires of the Vestal Virgins were extinguished in the 4th Century.
In 1961, President and Mrs. John F. Kennedy visited,
paying tribute to a captivated and grateful France.
Several years later, Mrs. Kennedy asked that an eternal flame be placed
next to her assassinated husband's grave, inspired by her visit to Paris.
Look up and see the 21 sculpted roses on the arched ceiling,
a fitting tribute to the sorrows of war.

The viewing platform on top is fantastic.
Look for La Défense and La Grande Arche to catch a whiff
of the historical perspective of the Axis Historique.
Then turn and gaze in the opposite direction at the Louvre
and the alternate universe that makes up the axis of the past.
An amazing transition.

From the platform, try to recall the iconic WWII photo of the patriotic Frenchman
as he tearfully watched the Nazis parade down his boulevard.
Then picture the joy of the Allies as they freed Paris from the chains of tyranny, parading past the preeminent monument dedicated to the glory of France.

On your way out, check out the exhibits featuring
the design and building of this tour de force.

La Grande Arche is tailored to a more contemporary Paris.
Built on the outskirts of Paris, center-stage of the business quarter
dubbed La Défense, La Grande Arche is a new symbol for Paris,
one that stands more for its future than its past.

Puteaux, the suburb with the skyscraper horizon, hosts this far-fetched wonder where fresh ideas and progressive ideals promote the new face of France.

In 1982, the city of Paris launched a grand contest to build
a 20th century version of the Arc de Triomphe.
Danish architect Johann Otto and Danish engineer Erik Reitzel bested
the challenge with a bold design and a peaceful theme.
La Grande Arche, so different from Napoleon's triumphal victory arch,
was to be designed with humanitarian ideals in mind.
Make peace, not war.

Building began in 1986 and finished by 1989.
The cube shaped arch (large enough to hold Notre-Dame Cathedral!)
is composed of concrete, glass and marble.
Views from the top provide a fantastic perspective on Paris staring straight
into the heart of the Arc de Triomphe and much of Classic Paris that follows.

The area surrounding the monument is worth a look as well.
Huge multinational corporations call this home, presenting a tone
that's both artistic and capitalistic, an intriguing balance of
modern art mixed with the smell of money.

The history of La Défense began in the '60's when President de Gaulle
and city developers sought a new way to keep skyscrapers
from altering the distinctly Parisian roof-lines, hoping to
preserve the classic beauty of The City of Light.
Keeping standards high, their goal put forward a balance of brains and beauty.
They succeeded in building a city of business, a French Manhattan.

Most of us seek out the historical side of Paris and its classic architecture.
But taking a different view is not a bad thing to do.
And I promise you this -- if the thought of taking time to see a
business district doesn't exactly inspire, at the very least
you'll be impressed with the symmetry that welcomes you
to what I call The Paris Hall of Fame.
From the top of La Grande Arche all the way to the Arc de Triomphe
and beyond, feast your eyes on consummate Paris and the Axis Historique.

Back to the Paris map.
The walk from one arch to the other may not be the most exciting promenade
you've ever taken in Paris, but it surely suits any passionate traveler
determined to learn the city forwards and backwards.

The map shows a couple of interesting looking sights along the way,
including Place de la Porte Maillot, very near the Palais de Congress
which hosts many big trade shows, concerts and events.
Avenue Charles de Gaulle takes over with a nearby cemetery and theatre
but the big draw is La Grande Arche drawing closer and closer, its
towering palaces of steel and glass fronting a distinctly new Paris.

My motto: Save the best for last.
After viewing La Grande Arche and the contemporary plaza
and art installations, we plan to head to La Apogé,
where 100 wines are available by the glass.
I'm not sure if it's what Lewis & Clark or Marco Polo would have done,
but we world explorers need to quench a different type of thirst from time to time.
I believe the name La Apogé comes from the same word apogee,
which means climax, culmination -- quite appropriate after our
brave adventure today, don't you think?

Keep it balanced.
Walk a little, drink a little, walk a little, eat a little, walk a little, drink a little .....

Enjoy every breath you take in Paris!

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In the Pink at Place Saint-Sulpice

4/16/2015

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Saint-Sulpice is a name that pops up on most travelers' itineraries
as an iconic Parisian religious landmark, always second to Notre Dame.

Fear not.
Saint-Sulpice is not just another "must-see" you're
expected to check off your to-do list.
I'm here to tell you it's so much more than an assembly of stones and holy water.
Recently spiffed up and clean as a whistle, the church and the fountain
set the scene as you approach the square.

And then it hits you.
As Aristotle once said,

"The whole is greater than the sum of its parts."

That pretty much defines this corner of Paris heaven.
The collective impact of Place Saint-Sulpice's synergy
is the french kiss you'll long remember.

The complex alliance of cathedral, fountain, grand mansions, shops,
people, -- even the single café -- contribute to the thrill of its first impression.
A perfect Paris moment in the ultimate Paris square.

Place Saint-Sulpice is an address that will help define your perception
of The City of Light and the unexpected delights that surround you.

Eglise Saint-Sulpice is well known for its enormous size
(second only to Notre Dame) as well as its unusual towers.
The first time I laid eyes on its mismatched towers, I laughed out loud.
If you've ever known anyone who has said
"once you've seen one, you've seen them all", you can tell them au contraire!

The strikingly dissimilar towers (both in height and decoration)
will confound you at first look and delight you at second.
In an age of xeroxed perfection, it's refreshing to witness such mad mystery.
What's behind the offbeat architecture?

In actuality, the difference in the two towers came down to -- what else -- money.
Whatever the story, the outcome is pure comedy.
Six different architects put their personal touch on the edifice
over the course of its construction (130+ years!) so who knows,
maybe one wanted tall and blonde
and the other one liked short & sassy ....
Not everyone will see the beauty -- but at least no one
will be blasé about this curious spectacle.

Construction began in 1646 but the builders ran out of funds twenty years later. Decades passed before building resumed.
New architects, new money, fresh inspiration and by 1780,
the House of God was nearly complete.
Except for those darned towers.
The south tower was never finished.

The remainder of the facade is quietly classic, offering three tiers
of columns that will remind you why you came to Paris in the first place.
It just works.

Inside, the church is a masterpiece of French Baroque.
Capped off by one of the world's largest pipe organs,
you can still find music reverberating throughout the holy hub
every single Sunday of the year.
Threaded with over 6500 pipes and five layers of keyboards,
your ears will be treated to rapturous notes and uncommon melodies.
The sounds are majestic.

Admit it, you've come to see "the Rose line" you read about in "The Da Vinci Code".
If you're expecting to see an albino monk-assassin pop out
from behind the pulpit, you'll be deeply disappointed.
Yes, there is a meridian line in full sight that leads to an obelisk,
but it's not Dan Brown's fictional version.

The brouhaha involves the intriguing brass line leading to the obelisk
that wears a funny hat -- an instrument (called a gnomon) used by astronomers
and mathematicians in the 18th century to determine the date of Easter.
Saint-Sulpice has posted a disclaimer that the rose line and the
Da Vinci-like story does not exist behind its walls.

Rats, I love a good story.
But the writing kingpin is missing a few facts.
The gnomon is an astronomical measuring device that casts a shadow
on the floor in order to measure the sun.
Got it?
No, me neither.
I read every word in Wikipedia that explained the calculations
and have decided it's best left to keener minds than mine.
If you like Brown's story (and who doesn't), go ahead and
keep searching for The Holy Grail.
The Louvre isn't far from here....

In the meanwhile, walk over to the side Chapel of the Angels
(just inside the front doors) and find Eugene Delacroix's murals.
He's the French Romantic artist best known for his work, Liberty Leading the People.
Jacob Wrestling the Angels and Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple
are two of the three examples of his post Revolution efforts at Saint-Sulpice.

Behind the altar is a statue of the Virgin and Child (by Jean Baptiste Pigalle)
with rays of light seeming to stream all around them.
Victor Hugo was married in this magnificent church and several
famous citizens were christened, perhaps in the same
sculpted shells that still today hold the holy water.

Step out of the church and the first thing you'll see
is an enormous fountain dead center of the square.
It's a beauty.

Fontaine des Quatre Éveques (Fountain of the Four Bishops)
was built by Joachim Visconti in the mid-1840's.
It's the touchstone of the square, evidenced by locals and tourists
alike who seem drawn to its sparkling waters.

In the summer, the square sometimes hosts brocantes (antiques markets)
and book fairs which liven up the already inviting atmosphere.

Now comes the best part.
Look around the square.
Local kids are at play, folks are stopping to check their cell phones,
dogs are walking their well-worn path.

This is a neighborhood, an authentic chance to see the real Paris.
Place Saint-Sulpice is not choked with tourists -- and even though it's on every visitor's agenda, you never get the feeling of being hemmed in by too many crowds.

Everyone needs a breather from time to time and this fine square, in the
wealthy 6th arrondissement, is a great spot for people watching.
Walk every inch.
Study the window displays.
You'll find mega-designer Yves Saint Laurent's chichi boutique,
Annick Goutal's fragrant shop, and even a store specializing in all things
Catholic -- all mixed in with gorgeous (and pricey!) residences, allegedly
including the townhouse of film legend Catherine Deneuve.

Take refuge in the perfectly placed Café de la Marie.
Sip an espresso slowly.
You'll feel like you're on a movie set.
You may never get up again -- although I recommend you do since
so many nearby streets have temptations
that will make your Paris fantasies come alive.
Pierre Hermé macarons, rue Guisarde .....
I'll save the rest for another day.

I double-dog-dare-you to not have a good time.

Travel is all about experiences and feelings.
My best days all have one thing in common -- the unexpected.
That's why the lopsided towers of Saint-Sulpice and the street
scene that surrounds it offer so much to a Paris visitor.

Spare us the featureless, emotionless monuments.
We get enough sameness in our everyday lives.
Give us some attitude; throw in some quirky.
We want more cross-eyed splendors like Place Saint-Sulpice.

People have any number of reasons for why they travel.
For some, it's the food.
Others are inspired by art and architecture or history or fashion.
For me, I think it's mostly for these types of moments,
the little glimpses of life lived elsewhere.
It jump-starts my imagination and makes me hungry for more.

Life is grand -- but you have to work at it.
A spirited existence is what we all desire and seeing "the other side"
adds joy and dimension to our own essence.
I can't tolerate indifference.
You don't need to experience a moon landing to feel vital and complete.
Sometimes the ticket to heaven is as simple as a cup of coffee at the local café.
Ok, so here it's served in one of the most amazing neighborhoods
in Paris, but I hope you get the picture -- and the chance to experience it.

"And the idea of just wandering off to a café with a notebook and
writing and seeing where that takes me for awhile is just bliss."
J.K. Rowling

You, too, will be in the pink at Saint-Sulpice Square.
Enjoy whatever is behind the next door.

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The Little French City that Roars

4/10/2015

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"In like a lion, out like a lamb"
refers to the volatility of weather in the month of March.

Kicked off by historically cold, blustery temperatures, March
typically ends with mild and pleasant conditions marking the start of Spring.
Angers -- pronounced with a soft g -- ahn-zhay -- is a lovely Loire
crossroads that offers contrasts as sharp as the winds of March.

At first sight, the city seems brawny, aggressively masculine
as you focus on its top draw, the Chateau d'Angers.
Often called Black Angers, the city reveals its dark side.
The castle's dark gray towers (made of black schist)
are imposing in size and strength.
Famous for its Apocalypse Tapestries, the venue reminds us
of the dark days of the Black Plague and angels vs. demons.
Militant rulers ranging from Foulques Nerra (Black Falcon -- got
to be the best bad-ass name ever) -- to Richard the Lionheart
and King Henry II of England are all associated with the dark chateau.

Anger's softer layers are revealed in a cultural soup
of art, opera, dance, theater and wine.
I call it The Little City that Roars.
Deep in the heart of historic Anjou, Angers is a progressive city
boasting several universities, a state-of-the-art tram system and a
surplus of sports including football, basketball, ice hockey and rowing.
Great shopping, food, wine and a wealth of parks and museums
make this a city that should be included on your next trip to Loire country.
Surprisingly, many guidebooks don't offer a lot of space to Angers,
preferring to focus on the fairytale chateau of the region.
Only a ninety-minute train ride from Gare Montparnasse in Paris,
Angers can potentially be the birthplace of your Loire adventures.

For my money, it's that engaging mix of opposites that make Angers a must-see.
A paradox is more interesting than a carbon copy.
Anger's jumble of light and dark are a perfect recipe
for several days of March-like-Madness.
After all, heaven wouldn't be half as interesting if you didn't know about hell.

Chateau d'Angers was built in less than ten years beginning around 1230. Impenetrable, formidable, tough as nails, its seventeen striped
towers are imposing, built to keep mischief outside its doors.
Nearly eight centuries old, this stronghold has never once been "taken" by invaders.

Originally surrounded by a moat, the chateau now offers
welcoming Renaissance-style formal gardens.
Although fortress-like on the outside, the chateau is actually quite beautiful once you enter the gates and you'll likely find a surprise around every corner.
They offer the complete chateau experience -- chapel,
ramparts, drawbridges, turrets and -- yikes -- torture & death.

The biggest draw is The Apocalypse Tapestry,
the most extensive assembly of medieval tapestries in the world.
It's breathtaking.
This startling display of religion, war, death and suffering
reflects those harrowing times.
Medieval life was awful, the times well suited to tell the story of the Revelation.
All 90 panels were created in just seven years and it may seem to
take that long to fully take in the whole story, inch by woven inch.

The Black Plague had created a virtual hell on earth so it was natural
that the arts of the day affirmed that the sky was indeed falling.
Although we all know that in the end (The Book of Revelation),
Good won out over Evil,
you'll pay far more attention to the bad parts, the suffering and the demons.
Hollywood scribes can't light a candle to this horror story.

The priceless tapestry was plundered during the French Revolution and cut up
into many pieces for assorted and unglamorous uses such as floor covering.
The French, understanding the importance of preserving such fine art,
have carefully pieced most of it back together.
I guarantee, unless you're looking for a Disney-esque experience,
you will love and remember this frightening masterpiece of history.

Angers offers several really good museum experiences.
I personally love the light-filled space and content of the Galerie David d'Angers. After seeing the darkness of The Apocalypse Tapestries, it's refreshing to see
David d'Angers' inspirational work in the renovated Toussaint Abbey.

The abbey's ruined roof was replaced by iron and glass which enhances
the artistic works of marble, bronze and plaster.
A local boy (his real name was Pierre-Jean David), David d'Angers is
best known as the creator of the Pantheon pediment in Paris.
His sculptures pay tribute to many historical and heroic world figures.
I was overwhelmed to see a large relief commemorating independence
from tyranny in the New World that included all the
greats such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson,
the marquis de Lafayette, Benjamin Franklin, Simon Bolivar
as well as some pretty anguished looking Native Americans.
The statue of Philopoemen is particularly moving
and the entire museum is a breath of fresh air.

Just around the bend you'll come upon the Musée des Beaux-Arts,
another graceful nod to this cultured city.
Housed in the Logis Barrault just steps away from the David d'Angers gallery,
you'll discover a wealth of painting and sculpture by many well-known artists. Fragonard, Watteau, Boucher, Ingrès, Sisley and Monet are exhibited in
the permanent collection as well as some locally inspired talent.
Get your art fix in two easy steps.

Across town, you discover another must-see museum.
La Doutre, the ancient neighborhood on the opposite side of the river Maine
has bragging rights to another apocalypse-inducing treasury.
France's oldest existing non-military hospital, The Hôpital Saint-Jean,
built by Henry II Plantagenet in 1174, has been transformed into an amazing gallery.

The Musée Jean Lurcat is the perfect counter-point
to the chateau's medieval tapestry collection.
Clearly inspired by his home town's Apocalypse Tapestry,
the artist tells a more contemporary story of near apocalyptic events.
His spirited Le Chant du Monde tapestries (created between 1957 and 1966)
are simultaneously uplifting and troubling.
Using new methods to weave his art, the colors are bold and ultra-modern.
This masterpiece of contemporary weaving reminds us
that life on earth is filled with both joy and agony.
The bombing of Hiroshima is surely the most horrifying (and controversial) panel but Lurcat doesn't waste any time to remind us of the joys of life on earth as well.
From space exploration to the simple joy of drinking wine and enjoying
flowers provide the balance between the pleasures and sorrows
of real life in the modern world.

The museum's adjoining exhibits demonstrate the art
of tapestry making with newer displays.
We were charmed by a group of very young children
weaving their own masterpieces in the workshop.
Just outside is a gorgeous Romanesque cloister and garden.
Don't miss this one.

As a small city, Angers is easy to navigate but the Maison d'Adam
on Place Ste-Croix will stop you in your tracks.
The half-timbered house, built during the Middle Ages,
offers a bit of a giggle if you look closely.
Its facade is decorated with fantastic wooden sculptures, notably musicians, centaurs, angels and - ahem - a man sporting three large testicles.
Too much testosterone for my taste.... as I always say,
you learn something new every day in France.

The surrounding flower-filled square is a delightful stop for an aperitif (or two).

Nearby, the Cathedrale de Saint-Maurice is an impressive 12th century wonder.
The style is a mix of Roman and Gothic in a style dubbed Angevin-Gothic.
Worth a double-take, the massive 66-pipe organ seems to hang by God's will
and the rose window is hardly standard issue.
Surprisingly, it includes all twelve signs of the zodiac.

Wine
Cointreau

Yes, Angers is the right city to soothe your soul post-Apocalypse.
There are many styles of wine, including several reds, whites and rosés.
Of course, many of them deserve high praise but let's focus on
just a few to tease our Loire wine appetite.

Different from wines I've experienced elsewhere, the prestigious
Quarts de Chaume and nearby Coteaux du Layon
are local gems, sweet but not cloying.
They taste like Spring, perfect sips to accompany dessert
or for a late afternoon aperitif.

Angers is headquarters for the famous Cointreau brand.
Please-please-please, don't equate this with the cheap
triple sec industrial tasting waste you sometimes put in your margarita.
Based just outside the city limits, the company offers tours and tastings.
Just smelling the orange-filled air of the distillery is almost a taste in itself.
It's a beautiful world.

As Benjamin Franklin once said,
"Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy."

Certainly, the opportunity to enjoy France is one happy blessing, too.
I hope that you will veer off the beaten path for the chance to experience
The Little French City that Roars.
In like a lion, out like a lamb, the Angers experience boils over with emotion.

Fantastic example of art-deco architecture in Angers, La Maison Bleue was constructed in 1927.

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How to Charm a Man in Paris

4/2/2015

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I'll be the first to admit it, I'm a little selfish when it comes to my Paris agenda. Jealously guarding my wish list as if it's the formula to world peace,
I sometimes have to pinch myself to look beyond the end of my own nose.

That said, I also realize the best way to keep coming back to my
beloved Paris is to keep my husband happy, satisfied and inspired.
There are only so many food markets and fashion museums
that he's willing to entertain.

Knowing most men love stuff related to military endeavor, I was
thrilled to find The Army Museum located in the same
complex as Napoleon's Tomb in the stunning Les Invalides.
We had already "done" the Napoleon thing but realized an excursion back to
this utterly perfect piece of Paris was in order -- especially if combined
with a museum sure to put a big smile on my guy's face.

What I didn't expect is that my little man-pleasing-mission
would also ensnare my own imagination.
Let's face it, though we loathe war, in large part it's the
patchwork of so much of our life story here on earth.
There's no escaping history's carnage and though we may try to
ignore the horrific consequences of battle, it's absolutely
fascinating to see the bloodstained artifacts of the struggle.

Long story short, he loved it, I loved it and suffice it to say,
we've visited the museum more than just once.

Mission accomplished!

Les Invalides and its dome of gold towers above Napoleon's
spectacular tomb but that's not our focus on this journey.
As usual, when in Paris, we're spoiled for riches.
This monument manages to balance the magnificent with the touching.

King Louis XIV commissioned Hotel des Invalides
as a hospital for wounded and disabled soldiers.
He made certain his returning army had a sick bay, church and rest home,
rewarding their service by providing a safe shelter filled with comfort and solace.
Still housing returning veterans from a long list of french wars,
you're likely to see several aging vets and their caregivers
as you stroll through the inner courtyard.

If you're already holding a ticket to see Napoleon's Tomb,
you can also see this much lauded military museum.

Les Invalides' huge courtyard displays 60 bronze cannons,
some as old as the 15th century -- a good preview
of some of the riches held inside the museum.

All hands on deck!
Man battle stations!

"War does not determine who is right --- only who is left."
Bertrand Russell, British philosopher/historian

Once inside The Army Museum, you'll realize how lucky
you're able to "conquer" Paris with just a map and a compass.
As your eyes start to focus on intimidating numbers of weaponry and
brutal methods to inflict pain and death, you'll thank your lucky stars
that we live in relatively stable times.

Firearms, knives, swords and crossbows always make me nervous -- and yet
it's amazing to see the artful detail in many of these frightening weapons.
War as art is hard to wrap your arms around.
Yet when you see it up close in these accomplished exhibits, you'll soon admire
the craftsmanship and artisan eye it took to build some of this hardware.
But rest assured, you'll still be scared out of your boots.

Witness the evolution of war through paintings, letters, military models & uniforms, some dating back to as early as the 15th century through today.
Pick your passion.
From Europe to Asia to the Middle East, the vast galleries
carry one of the most comprehensive collections in the world.
If Napoleonic Wars interest you, there is much to celebrate
including The Little Corporal's life-sized stuffed horse.
Should you prefer the WWI or WWII eras, there are wings specifically
dedicated to these ghastly killing fields.
As well as everything in between.

Several exhibits lead you chronologically through the who-what-where-when
of not only the battles but the political situations that led up to the bloodletting. Maps, cartoons, paintings and videos help tell the story behind the story.
Tanks and technology are not the only means to war.
Propaganda and political cunning nearly equal the destruction
of chemical weapons and battleships.

"An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind."
Mahatma Ghandi

Whether you're more "Horatio Hornblower" "Lawrence of Arabia"
or "Saving Private Ryan", you're sure to find your oeuvre in this museum.
Not just for the male species, The Army Museum will thrill
most would-be Rosie-the-Riveters and Florence Nightingales.
With several hours worth of concentrated effort, you'll find a worthwhile payoff.
I walked away knowing so much more about our past.
War and history are a pair (unfortunately) and you're likely to leave securely
convinced that peace in our day is not just a nice pat saying.

Many of us absently speak of the futility of war.
A field of battle seems as senseless and worthless as anything.
But the sad truth is, war has shaped our planet immensely.
And it continues to shape our circumstance.
These frightening examples illuminate the stark reality and for
those of us who prefer to keep our heads buried deeply in the sand,
The Army Museum illuminates the careful balance between good and evil.

A museum as encompassing as this at the very least
enlightens us to some of the mysteries of man.
And for that, I am grateful.
War is not just a headline on the front page of your newspaper or tablet.
These stark exhibits bring home the reality of "when all hell breaks loose."
It brings me to my knees.

From the film "A Few Good Men":

"I want the truth!"
Lt. Kafee (Tom Cruise)

"You can't handle the truth!"
Col. Jessup (Jack Nicolson)

Neither can I.

"Bring 'em Home"
lyrics by Pete Seeger and Jim Musselman

If you love this land of the free
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring them back from overseas
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

It will make the politicians sad, I know
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
They wanna tangle with their foe
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

They wanna test their grand theories
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
With the blood of you and me
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

We'll give no more brave young lives
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
For the gleam in someone's eyes
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

The men will cheer and the boys will shout
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
And we will all turn out
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

The church bells will ring with joy
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
To welcome our darling girls and boys
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

We will lift their voice in song
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
When Johnny comes marching home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring them back from the overseas
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
If you love this land of free
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home
Bring them back from the overseas
Bring 'em home, bring 'em home

Read more: Bruce Springsteen - Bring 'Em Home Lyrics | MetroLyrics

Remember those who gave all.
May they rest in peace.

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Collioure, Queen of The Côte Vermeille

A Triumphal March Through Time

In the Pink at Place Saint-Sulpice

The Little French City that Roars

How to Charm a Man in Paris

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!

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Collioure, Queen of The Côte Vermeille

A Triumphal March Through Time

In the Pink at Place Saint-Sulpice

The Little French City that Roars

How to Charm a Man in Paris

AUTHORMICHELLE MOGGIOThanks for visiting my blog!

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Categories

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!