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Follow that Monk!

12/30/2015

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What's the number one reason we travel to France?
That one's easy, it's the simple wisdom and fundamental gospel
Eat, Drink & Be Merry.

 We like to think we're a little deeper than that so we build
meaningful chunks of culture into our plans -- significant,
consequential, enlightened attempts to learn and grow.
  But if you had to choose -- admit it -- the eating and drinking
part is what makes our adventures so memorably fun.

So when you get to combine the merry-making with stone cold
historical and cultural insight, it's definitely a worthwhile venture. 
A two-for-one win.
Saint-Émilion, just 22 miles NE of Bordeaux, is one whale of a find. 
Sip, savor, and soak up some savvy all in one beautiful package.

AND FOLLOW THAT MONK.

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Saint-Émilion is the site where, late in the 8th century, a
 distressed Breton monk named Émilion carved a new life for himself
and unwittingly founded the largest underground church in Europe.
  Escaping troubles back home, he sought refuge in the peaceful
countryside, digging out his cave-home into a limestone cliff in what
would one day become a town (and a wine classification) named after him.

  Hoping to live his life as a hermit, Émilion's solitude didn't last long.
  What followed was the birth of a wine industry moored in holy
tradition -- holy at least for we wine-lovers -- a launch-pad for
the mythical drink we now know as Saint-Émilion wine.
And if that's not enough, the little monk's escape was the wellspring
that generated worldwide acclaim and a UNESCO World Heritage Site
salute for both the village and its full-bodied wine.
 Not bad for a bashful monk in self-imposed solitary confinement....

You can still visit his craggy but not-so-secluded retreat, now a
rock-hewn church that continues to draw pilgrims.
Christened a monolithic church, the moniker simply means
the architecture is made from one single stone.

What began as a modest hideaway for one monk became a fascinating network
of subterranean galleries in a church that evolved over a period of many years.
You will see his "furniture" -- a bed made of stone -- yikes -- and
an improbable chair where women, anxious to conceive,
take a hopeful seat, praying for enriched fertility.
The site includes Benedictine catacombs, a spring and
graffiti thought to be from the French Revolution.
Above ground, the slightly newer Holy Trinity Chapel
nurtures preserved frescoes from the 13th century.
  Our guide, both knowledgeable and interesting, offered a fascinating
lesson in the mingling of legend and truth in this amazing chronicle.

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Filled with Romanesque ruins, you're soon reminded that
wine and worship go hand in hand.
The Romans planted vines here as early as the 2 A.D. and
centuries later, the monk and his followers took the lead.
  You can still visit the Église Collégiale and admire its 12th century nave
and 14th century cloisters or climb the King's Tower
(La Tour du Chateau Roy) for a royal view of the town.
  Among the ruins of the Cloître des Cordeliers is a chance to
see and taste sparkling wines of the region.

The French Revolution brought the town to its knees, much of it
looted and destroyed, and eventually abandoned.
  But as the wine trade revved up again in the mid-1800's, Saint-Émilion's
reputation brought wine traders and traffic back to the trail of the vine.

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From the moment you arrive, you won't be able to resist the urge
to taste the vines that surround the pretty city. 
Once your eyes become accustomed to the enchanting warmth of the stonework, cobblestones and picture perfect setting, you'll soon rally to the number of wine shops and maisons de vin on every block, many with vines in their own back yard.

And the restaurants! 
Saint-Émilion has a wealth of eateries boasting excellent regional cuisine. 
Look for area specialties such as lamprey --  eel stewed in a sauce of
local wine -- or little snails called cagouilles -- or perhaps even the unusual
but tasty pairing of fresh oysters with spicy sausages....
adventurous, yes, but always delicious.
Basically, anything cooked in red wine with cèpes, shallots, parsley,
sometimes even beef marrow qualifies as "à la bordelaise" -- especially
fine when married to a fine entrecôte (steak). 
And as you enjoy your tasty meal,
you'll approve of every sip of wine that accompanies it.
  In this part of France, you'll see more than a few smiling
faces enjoying a glass of red, even with breakfast.

"Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy."
Benjamin Franklin

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Don't miss a taste of the local favorite -- caneles -- caramelized, sugary, delightful!
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THE WINES
Why yes, I'll have another glass, s'il vous plait.


  Whether you believe in a higher power or not, you'll count
your blessings when you take that first sip.
  Bursting with elegance and complexity, Saint-Émilion wine
is heaping full of the region's unique character and tradition.
  Made up of many small estates, the wine is a living symbol of the community.

  Blessed with divine soil, generations of hard work and principled
wine-making, Saint-Émilion's bottles surely deserve their status.
The monks that succeeded Émilion performed miracles in the vines.
Nearly 2.5 million cases of wine are produced each year
and prices continue to climb.
  It's no wonder.
  One velvet swallow and you'll be a fan for life. 

The tastings are fun and informative, even by those who are supposed to be selling.
  As the oldest wine society in France, Saint-Émilion's Jurade -- doing
double-duty as wine police and wine ambassadors -- was established in 1199.
  To this day, the town celebrates the start and end of the annual harvest with a parade in traditional vestments -- red robe and chapeau, white cape and gloves.

"We are all mortal until the first kiss and the second glass of wine."
Eduardo Galeano

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It may seem hokey, but do take the petit train for a glorious ride
through not just the town but also some of the vineyards.
  You'll be treated to visions of chateaux -- glorious 18th and 19th century estates
that will have you mooning the rest of the week in glorious claret-colored dreams.
 
Saint-Émilion -- perfectly french, doubly delicious, insanely irresistible. 
You'll never forget the essence of its liquid gold or the little monk
who carved a miracle into a cave and into our hearts.

"It doesn't matter if the glass if half empty or half full.
There is clearly room for more wine."
Anonymous

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Joy to the World for 800 Years

12/18/2015

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 There is nothing quite as sweet as the sound of a church bell ringing. 
The moment you hear that undeniable cadence, you can't help but stand a
  little taller, your spirit immediately boosted as you drink in the harmonious toll.

Is there any place in the world where the peal of a bell means so much?
  I speak, of course, of the bells of Notre Dame de Paris,
ten trumpets that enlighten us 365 days a year with
the promise of Joy to the World.
  A pulsating hum, a reverberating hymn that cannot be missed.
Heavy Metal never sounded so good.

For over 800 years, Our Lady of Paris has stood,
mother ship to believers the world over. 
But Notre Dame Cathedral is not just for the devout.
  Often a first stop for many of the 70,000,000 people who visit Paris each
year, it's the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow for those who have long
 dreamed of hearing her bells, lighting a candle, or grooving with the gargoyles.

You've seen this Gothic masterpiece all your life -- on calendars, postcards
and on the pages of history -- and you'll know you've really arrived in the
 City of Light the moment you thrill to the enchanting refrain that rings pure Paris.

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Every time I visit Notre Dame, I see something new. 
The world's most imminent cathedral has so many features,
it's impossible to take them all in during one, three, or thirty visits.
  Your field of vision gets muddled by one masterwork after another -- statues,
murals, pillars, windows, doors... certainly too much to absorb in just a few visits. 
  The darling of countless photographs, sketches and paintings over the centuries,
it's possible that when you finally get your first look,
you might get an initial feeling of "been there, done that".

But if you take your time and really study this divine work of art -- one treasure
at a time -- you'll soon see that Notre Dame de Paris is worthy of its acclaim.

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My personal favorite N-D experience was on a warm
summer day in the middle of the heavy tourist season. 
The cathedral was packed with families, children buzzing in their naturally rambunctious state -- when suddenly, a voice sounding how we think
God should sound -- you know, sort of like The Wizard of Oz -- made an
announcement that thundered theatrically throughout the acoustically perfect nave.
  I don't recall His exact words but I'm pretty sure it was an elegant way to say
"shut up" or perhaps, "wait until your Father comes home".....
  The Voice had an immediate and chilling effect.
  Aretha Franklin couldn't have conjured up more R-E-S-P-E-C-T even on her best day.
But then that's Notre Dame Cathedral -- a place so unworldly,
all fall to their knees in awe and wonderment.

Imagine medieval stone cutters -- likely seven or eight generations of families
toiling over the 200 years it took to build -- grinding away, their brave
efforts just a minuscule part of the big picture.
  Did they take it as their responsibility toward their Creator?
  Did they know that in 2015 alone,
over 20,000,000 visitors would see their work?

Artisans who carved Bible stories above the immense doors -- or those who
carved the Kings of Judah -- their heads mistakenly lopped off during the
French Revolution (impassioned masses mistook them for french kings) --
 Did they realize the world would come to their door 800 years later?

  Consider all the baloney and foolishness posted on the internet
these days -- shameless selfies, hateful rants, political blather, etc.
  We're told it lasts for all eternity -- but just how long is that and does it matter?
Eternity on the worldwide web seems small somehow,
stacked up next to Notre Dame's 800 year history, a rock solid miracle.
Our Lady of Paris is The Real Deal, standing the test of time -- both
rewarding and humbling --  and ably demonstrating what really matters.

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I very much doubt if any other building so associated with
the history of Paris out-delivers Notre Dame. 
Think of the famous people who have passed through its great doors.
  From popes to heads of state to movie stars, everyone wants to
feast their eyes on this glorious piece of Paris. 

- It was here that Napoleon crowned himself Emperor in 1804.

 - Joan of Arc was beatified (and later canonized) within these great walls.

-The French Revolution renamed the great cathedral The Cult of Reason,
stealing nine of the ten original great bells and melting them down for cannon.

- At one point, N-D became so obscure, it was reduced
to little more than a storage shed for food and wine.

 - Daredevil Philippe Petit walked the wire between its two towers.

 - Author Victor Hugo, inspired to write his best-selling 1831 novel
"The Hunchback of Notre-Dame", inspired the people of Paris to save it from ruin.

The list of great moments is endless -- undoubtedly with many more to come.

 My vote for wish-I-was-there-moment:
Notre Dame held a special mass to celebrate the liberation of Paris in WWII.
Accounts of sniper fire and stray bullets allegedly marred several windows
and yet, can you imagine the thrill of hearing Emmanuel* toll on August 24, 1944?

LIBERATION!

*All 10 bells have their own names.

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If you have fearless thighs and buns of steel (like me), go ahead
and climb the 387 steps to the best view in Paris.
  But if you have a touch of claustrophobia (like me) and detest
narrow, winding steps with sweaty people in front of and behind
you (like me), then forget about it. 
You'll avoid the long lines and have more time to poke around the interior.

The crowds can be intimidating but if you visit in the early evening (around 6pm), they'll quickly dissipate just in time for 6:15 mass.
  Even if you're not Catholic, it's lovely to sit and absorb heaven's light
in the world's most well-known cathedral. 
Put away your camera, gut your "to do" list.
  Quietly reflect and give thanks for the privilege of sitting among the angels.
Just think, you're a stone's throw away from the Crown of Thorns
and remnants of the Crucifix (inside the treasury).

  Then consider this.
Building began in the 10th century.
The magnificent minds and talent who conjured up this immortal work
built a body that measures twenty stories high with seating for 9,000 congregants. 
Imagine that!
Contemplate the inventiveness, the odyssey of  designing and installing
flying buttresses that hold up the heavy walls and impossibly high ceiling.
Appreciate the light reflecting in the church's gorgeous stained glass windows.

  Built on the site of a Roman temple,
you can also tour the archaeological crypt below.
  It harks back to the time when Paris was still called Lutèce.
The center of the world. 
Well, almost -- at the very least, it's the center of Paris.
  Officially, this is Point Zero, where all distances to and from Paris are measured. Look outside for the medallion that marks the exact spot.

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Birth, death, war, peace.
  Being a grownup.
There's never enough time to get everything "done".
  When life sometimes feels like it's flashing by too quickly,
maybe the universe is telling you to slow down.
  Reflect, let the clock stop.
  This is a good place to do that. 
Eight hundred years of human activity puts it all into perspective.

Notre Dame Cathedral
Hear the bells ring and cherish the moment.
It's not just "for whom the bell tolls" but the who, what, when, where and why. 
Listen and feel your spirit re-discover the joy.

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Sunshine, Hollyhocks & Oysters for Breakfast

12/8/2015

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Carefree, undemanding, frittering away the afternoon....
Sounds like vacation heaven, doesn't it?
Regrettably, travel reality is sometimes a different story. 
If you find yourself overwrought, facing too many globe-trotting
challenges, oh boy, do I have a holiday spot just for you.

La Rochelle and nearby Ile de Ré are a Goldilocks-feels-just-right way
to spend all day, every day, goofing off like you're 12 years old again.
Happily warm a café chair or mosey around the historic harbor -- any way
you choose, this is the perfect answer to a harried traveler's prayers.

France's Atlantic Coast is breezy, laid back and as un-bothered a
harbor as you'll ever find -- yet it's anything but typical.
Sure, it has the usual seaside checklist: sunny blue sky, perfect views,
brilliant food and wine.... yada-yada-yada... but one thing is in short supply
-- and that's a good thing.

La Rochelle and its nearby islands are completely lacking in
the cookie-cutter, over-hyped, over-done, high-strung beach scene.
Instead, you'll find a town gifted in too many ways to count, a
perfect place to dilly dally over whatever diversion you choose.
Toss all your anxiety into the sea and repeat after me,
"Life is short so today I choose sunshine,
 a glass of wine and a healthy dose of joie de vivre."
 
For once, leave your mission statement behind and just go.

"He who knows that enough is enough
will always have enough."

Lao Tzu

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While the world comes to Paris to search out romantic bucket-list dreams,
Parisians flock to the Atlantic Coast to connect with nature and steal a little R&R.
They know where to find the sort of solitude that is never lonely,
a quiet beauty that is rarely gray.
La Rochelle is a great place to start your waterfront non-adventure. 
It's just a 3-hour train ride from Paris, smack dab
on the west coast of France between Brittany and Bordeaux.

Ancient twin towers guard the port, the focal point
of any journey to this lovely seaside spot.
La Rochelle's historic harbor has a long and important maritime history.
Today, its role is mostly as defender of trays of succulent oysters,
pitchers of beer, and lazy crazy days of sun-filled pineau* sipping pleasure.
*a delicious cognac-infused white wine)

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La Rochelle's Aquarium is one of the biggest in Europe.
  Tanks of eels, sharks and sea turtles line the gallery, combining
performance art entertainment with real life education.
  More than just a venue for the jellyfish ballet, this aquarium serves
as an important research and conservation center.

Oddly, what most caught my attention were the families, especially the
moms & pops toting tiny babies wrapped like baby Jesus, cuddled and
whispered to with utter reverence, a firm belief these tiny human urchins
are able to absorb the maritime lesson as well as the rest of us.
As Mama & Papa patiently explained the mysteries of the sea to these little
bundles of joy, their big eyes seemed to take everything in -- classical
music, dancing seahorses, coastal conservation -- with nary a peep or fuss.
   Perhaps the result of DNA from France's sea-champion J. Cousteau family??
  Incredible!
It was as fascinating a display as the aquarium itself.

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Lining the pretty town, arcaded streets feature shops selling everything
from nautical clothing to characterful tins of sardines.
  A few years back, I happened upon a unique shopfront loaded
with collectibles -- including a live cat curled up tightly between the keepsakes.
"Ugmet" even had his own portrait, likely because of nosy customers
(like me) who walked in to inform on his immodest spectacle.
  But that's La Rochelle for you -- unhurried, undemanding,
nonchalant -- the capitol of tranquility.

Yet, please don't take the calm for boring. 
La Rochelle is anything but that.
There's a buoyant spirit in the quiet calm, a balance between 
peace of mind and seaside celebration.

And for heavens sake, don't miss a meal.
The food is amazing -- try local specialty mouclade (mussels in cream)
to get your taste buds up and running for the best of coastal cuisine.

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The marché couvert - covered market - is wonderful,
filled to the brim with stall after stall of fresh seafood, beautiful meats,
  cheeses and of course, the famous regional sea salt. 
Stock up!
  It's fun to try a few specialty salts too, combining other herbs and
spices to complement any dish you're making.
  Across the street, old men line up at the bar to enjoy their morning glass of red. 

You can tour the iconic towers that guard the vieux port, loaded with
medieval personality and fantastic views of the ocean's dramatic theater.
  My favorite is the Tour de la Lanterne with its panoramic views
  (150+ steps) and graffiti scrawled by prisoners though the centuries. 
Built in the mid-1400's, the tower holds many secrets and horrors -- including
the tale of 13 priests once tossed from its summit. 
These fortresses served different needs over the century -- whether
lighthouse or prison, the stone towers ably tell the story of La Rochelle.

There's also a slave museum (La Rochelle was once the go-between for captured  prisoners forced to travel to slave-holding colonies in America's deep south),
a museum of old automata -- small scale mechanical models and animated
street scenes -- even a site with ruined WWII German bunkers.
Regrettably, we missed some of these opportunities -- but that
just gives us yet another reason to return.
  Let's face it, when you're "busy" day and night doing as little as possible,
sometimes you miss out on one or two activities.
  And that's ok with me .... savor another oyster, open another bottle of wine...
..
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Photo from "Masters of French Cuisine"
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Just across the water from La Rochelle floats a spectacularly
luminous island the French know and love well. 
Ile de Ré, saltwater superstar of the Charente-Maritime,
drips with island character.
 
Less than twenty miles long and three miles wide, the small
island boasts nearly 60 miles of cycling lanes.
  With a winter population of just 20,000 locals, the island
swells to 220,000 in season. 
Sun worshipers covet bikes over cars, striped pullovers over Paris
designs, and kite surfing over disco dancing.

If that's not enough, best dressed honors go to the local donkeys.
Yes, you heard me right -- shaggy-chic donkeys wearing pants.
  Striped or gingham, they're both adorable and ridiculous but 
you'll fall for them anyway -- blame it on puppy-- er -- donkey love. 
The tradition was born in the salt marshes, where fleur-de-sel farmers
needed to protect their 4-legged workers from getting
insect bites during the harvest.
  The iconic (but stinging) flower-scented treasure
 hurt the donkeys' tender legs and inspired a cullotte revolution,
just another charming aspect of life on Ile de Ré.

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Distinctive child-carriers attached to bikes are seen all around the island
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Towering platters of freshly caught shellfish greet brave diners
willing to pull out all stops to navigate the feast.
  Lucky you, this seafood archeological dig may take hours and you'll need
ample local refreshment as you work around your plate.
  Ile de Ré boasts its own vintage -- bright and crisp as the morning sunshine.
You'll be glad you have the chance to enjoy its pleasures.
Your only job now is to watch yachts bobbing in the bay and wonder
what French movie star sat in your café chair last week.
 
There are several towns ripe for a visit so don't hold back from
taking an extended bike ride after lunch.
  Saint-Martin-de-Ré is the place to start with its fortifications and elegant port.
  La Flotte (fantastic market), La Couarde (golden sand and long beaches) and Ars-en-Ré (salt farms and lighthouse) each have their own special character.
You'll be swept up in white-washed houses with aquamarine shutters,
19th century lighthouses and acres of cyprus, pine trees and wild rosemary.

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If you're searching for a way to put beauty and pleasure back into your world,
change the rhythm of your life. 
A visit to France's Atlantic Coast is good place to start.

La Rochelle and Ile de Ré are game-changers -- perfect reminders
of the wonder and the possibilities of life on this great planet.

"Life is like a ten speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use."
- Charles M. Schulz

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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