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A Treasure Trove of Inspiration

1/17/2022

Big surprises in Paris are par for the course.
Arguably, the City of Light offers more marvels per
square mile than just about anywhere on earth.
Alluring, artistic and unforgettable, Paris is at its best
as it melts your heart with its unparalleled charisma.

Cross the threshold of Maison Deyrolle in the heart of
Paris' 7th district and you'll initially think you're in
just another lovely interior design boutique.
Home and garden inspirations pack the pretty shelves
to tempt you to explore the Martha Stewart side of your brain.

But before long, you'll realize the real party is upstairs.
And goodness, what a spectacle!
Deyrolle is a miracle -- a cross between a taxidermy store,
a natural history museum and a home design shop.
It's chock full of what you see on the pages of
National Geographic Magazine, brimming with exotic marvels that help illuminate and protect the wonders of our world.

If you think you might be "grossed out" by animals stuffed
and displayed, I think you'll be surprised and gladdened
by the tenderness of this rare operation.

Every centerpiece is designed and curated with care,
creating a world of exquisite specialty.
Sure, we come to Paris to revel in the city's architecture, glorious cuisine and historic acquisitions.
But then there's Deyrolle, a mansion/museum/shop that enlightens our nurturing side and inquisitive nature.

There are no raindrops on roses nor whiskers on kittens
nor will you find snowflakes that stay on your nose and eyelashes -- but I promise, you will discover a few of
YOUR FAVORITE THINGS.*
*apologies to Oscar Hammerstein and Richard Rodgers

Collectors love this place.
You can orchestrate a beautiful butterfly display or whip up
an unconventional bug collection.
Movie producers/curators flock to Maison Deyrolle to purchase exotic animals for their cinematic masterpieces.
High end decorators come here for that "perfect" rhinoceros head or colorful parrot in hopes to add that perfect
"je ne sais quoi" to their high rolling clients' theatre room. Woody Allen chose the store to stage a scene in film favorite "Midnight in Paris" while Picasso and Salvadore Dali
came here for artistic inspiration.

It feels very personal -- for me, it was a bird and butterfly heaven -- yet the vast assortment of books, mammals, insects and minerals assure there is something for everyone.

"Until one has loved an animal,
a part of one's soul remains unawakened."
Anatole France, french poet, novelist, & Nobel Prize winner

Creative shop experts will help design your own masterpiece with these curious treasures.

Maison Deyrolle, first opened in 1831 by founder
Jean-Baptise Deyrolle, is a Paris institution.

To some, a shop dedicated to the art of taxidermy and entomology must have seemed like a surefire strategy to fail.
Nearly two hundred years later, Maison Deyrolle is firmly planted on the wish list of many Paris fans.

Emille Deyrolle, grandson of founder Jean-Baptiste,
created many posters and charts to help educate
French school children.
Countless posters and charts detailing the miracles
of natural history made their way around the world
and into the hands of curious children.

"No matter how few possessions you own or
how little money you have, loving wildlife and nature
will make you rich beyond measure."
Paul Oxton, wildlife photographer and author

Deyrolle posters are very familiar to french schoolchildren.

Paris enjoys a stellar reputation for many things.
I hope you'll make time for Maison Deyrolle
the next time you visit.

Somewhere in-between hunting down the glamorous
must-sees of Paris, discover the mysteries of the
natural world and browse this urban jungle.
At the historic little store on rue du Bac in the 7th arrondissement, you'll first satisfy your curiosity;
but looking back, I think you'll realize this is yet
another magical layer of Paris just being itself.

It's an experience you'll never forget.
And while you're there, please say bonjour
to the birds & butterflies for me.

1 Comment

When You See a Chance, Take It

11/19/2021

4 Comments

"Je pense, donc je suis." Philosopher René Descartes' famous words
"I think, therefore I am" have never been so poignant.
A worldwide pandemic, racial suffering and civil unrest, menacing climate
change and a host of uncomfortable realities have made a great number
of us question many of our basic truths.

So could a trip to Paris help this threatened traveler
feel like she's back on track again? In a word, OUI!
My personal philosophy: I love Paris, therefore I am.

Sick and tired of hearing bad news and exhausted from trying to be
a responsible adult, I decided to brave a trip overseas in the midst
of the global scourge of our lifetime.
I needed to be sure it was still there -- the Paris of my dreams -- and to feel fully alive, part of this world where surely I could find my sense of purpose again.

Our last night in Paris included a full moon and incredible views of the Eiffel Tower.

Before any naysaying nerves could creep up on me,
I booked my flight and accommodation.
Our planned side junket to Amsterdam had to be deep-sixed after the Netherlands ordained a 10-day quarantine (only to be lifted a week after I cancelled
both flight and accommodation) but thankfully Paris was still on the horizon.

For this trip, the planning process felt different.
Unlike the past, where I concentrated on all things novel or undiscovered in the
City of Light, I found myself hungry to rediscover old favorites along with the new.

Overriding all my planning was a list of nagging uncertainties.
How much has the pandemic changed Paris?
Would I be a fun devil-may-care traveler or a nervous-nelly-scaredy-cat?
Days before leaving I felt like I was drowning in a suspicious cocktail
made up of three parts big and hopeful emotions, two parts Covid bitters
and a dash of overthinking....after all, what if we caught the virus on this trip??

Being a big believer in science and all the protocols needed
to stay safe during this trip overseas, I was ready.
Already fully vaccinated (of course), I read up on all the requirements
to make sure we could focus on fun after a few basics were managed.
Day one's priority was to find a pharmacy to issue my pass sanitaire -- the
official French health pass with proof of vaccination.
It's the ticket to the magic kingdom which allows entry into restaurants,
museums and just about anywhere.
A pharmacy in the Marais offered the pass (they had to register our
official U.S. documentation of the vax) and though it was a bit of a pain,
the payoff was well worth the effort.

After that, it was off to the races.
As usual, there weren't enough hours in the day to fit it all in.
We walked and gawked and ate and drank -- everything an
ardent little Paris fanatic could ever hope for.

It took more planning than before since some of the museums had
timed entry (due to the virus) but once we figured that out,
it was a matter of pre-planning the night before.
We squeezed reservations to special destinations
in between reservations to favorite restaurants.
Not as happy-go-lucky as previous visits but easily attainable
once we got into the flow.

The timed entries had a bright side I hadn't even considered.
The museums didn't seem as busy or as touristy as many had been in the past
plus you got to float right past the ticket line.
Restaurant reservations were a good idea as well because they show respect
and enthusiasm for a particular eatery.
Again, not as easy-breezy as prior visits but definitely worth the effort
with a nice payoff in the end.

Pierre Hermé's world celebrity is well deserved. Each delicacy is uniquely imaginative.

Paris seems more alive than ever.
All around us, we noticed men, women, even children
sentimentally delighted to be around other people.
The pandemic seems to have created a sense of community amongst many of us.
I felt really happy and hopeful engaging as a citizen of the world.

We examined Rodin's unforgettable sculptures in two different settings, his namesake museum (Musee Rodin) and at a special exhibit in Picasso's museum.
Admiring the colossal majesty of the Pantheon
and all the greats within who lie in grace, I felt a bit overwhelmed
by history and the people who make the world go 'round.
The history and artistic evolution of Paris was gloriously presented
in a renovated Musée Carnavalet which was so satisfying
I wanted to turn around and do it all over again the next day.
On the opposite cultural spectrum, I "wrote" my own screenplay
by following online guides to both "Emily in Paris" and "Call My Agent."
We spent an afternoon grave hopping at Pere Lachaise and another afternoon mooning over the glam Vogue designs at the Palais Galliera.

From Victor Hugo's mansion in the Marais to door devotee on
Boulevard de Malsherbes, we discovered beauty in every little detail.
Luxembourg Gardens and Parc Monceau never seemed more enchanting
and all the while it didn't rain on our parade even one time.
The department stores, the designer storefronts, the boulangeries and
the chocolate shops made both our eyes and our mouths water.
We delighted in the Arc de Triomphe both dressed (by Christo & Jeanne-Claude)
and undressed and a car-free Champs-Elysée the first Sunday of the month.
And just like every other trip to Paris, we dined on all things French
and totally delicious every chance we got.
But there was one element that stood out above all the rest.

Leaving the noise and acrimony of social media behind,
Paris woke us up to a land of the living again.
Even with Covid restrictions in place, we noticed how much Parisians leaned in
to everyday activities such as café sitting and full throated conversation.
There's always something happening and Parisians want to be in the center of it.

Paris has always been the artistic epicenter of Europe and yet, right now, the
best pinch-me moments were just watching people interact with each other.
With wooden decks and bistro chairs spilling out into the streets, these
authentic Parisian vignettes were impossible not to notice.

Fewer cars and more pedestrians made interacting with each other
more probable than ever -- and Parisians seem to like it that way.
Walking is life in this country's capital and remains the best way
to feel connected to the heartbeat of the city.

A stunning butterfly collection at Paris taxidermist Deyrolle, a must do for all nature lovers.

Back to the pandemic for a moment.
When we took the TGV to Tours in the Loire Valley, we noticed a
masked dog -- yes, you read that right -- sitting across the aisle from us.
So if you're wondering if we felt safe to travel about in France, the answer is yes!
Not an unconditional yes because we realize vaccinated people can still
catch a milder version of Covid but yes to a country that is not too timid
to enforce rules to keep its citizens and guests safe.
Strictly following these rules and witness to others supporting said rules
made this traveler feel good about her choice to travel.
p.s. the dog worked the mask off a bit under his chin while he laid down to nap but the owner lifted it back in place the moment the dog sat up again.
Good boy!

The incomparable Vogue was featured in our favorite fashion museum Palais Galliera.

Stop complaining about wearing your mask! Flashback to WWII at the Musée de la Liberation.

We absolutely loved seeing the 100 year retrospective from Vogue Magazine at the Palais Galliera which brought to mind the good old days when our biggest
worry was the length of our hemlines and the color of our eyeshadow.

On another occasion, we were reminded of one of the worst times in Paris history.
Visiting the relatively new* Musée de la Liberation, we were struck by the terror of another time as well as the heroic efforts made to make the world whole again.
Sounds like lessons for today....
*Opened in 2019 shortly before the pandemic, the Liberation Museum includes an underground bunker
and visual reminders of the horrors of fascism. Note, there are about 100 steps down to (and up again) the bunker.

Which leads me back to the question, to travel or not to travel.
We've spent a long time now feeling like our world came to a full stop in 2020 and hasn't exactly picked up the pace too much in 2021 and beyond.
It's been both strange and exhausting.
And many of us have learned great lessons from the experience.

I'll have what she's having. Luxembourg Gardens Fall 2021.

Do you say Howdy or Bonjour to this fella? Priceless Paris street art in the 10th arrondissement.

The famous chef chats up his customer. Conversation is king in Paris.

Unfortunately, we continue to live with much uncertainty.
So imagine the feeling of liberation when you realize your heart
can flutter with excitement and contentment again.

Paris is not a spectator sport.
It's a place to get up and get going.
We felt unrestrained in the knowledge that though no one is 100% safe
from the covid curse, the benefit vs. risk was overwhelmingly in our favor.

Traveling now is not kooky nor is it revolutionary.
Much like the before* days, it's a positive experience that fine
tunes your perspective - a bit of calm in the midst of chaos.
*pre-covid

Am I glad I took a chance?
YES.
Was the trip easy and/or perfect?
NO.
Was it as fulfilling as previous trips?
Decidedly YES.

The Rodin Museum - powerful, meaningful, unforgettable!

So the next time the fragility of our world gets you down, consider a trip to Paris.
Let your trailblazing spirit overcome your anxiety.
Being "comfortable" is so overrated.
After all, traveling is inherently uncomfortable.
You're leaving your "safe place" and embarking on an adventure.

Stick your neck out and shake yourself out of the routine of this long nightmare.
Enough of the stay-at-home loungewear and Netflix.
Step into your best walking shoes and GO!

Whether you're seeing Paris for the first time or the twentieth, this is
your chance to hit the pandemic pause button.
Beat a path from the ugliest time in our recent history to
a full range of beautiful possibilities in Paris.

It's quite possible we'll never again take good health and easy living for granted.
We may suffer from bouts of uncertainty but as long as we get out of bed
and get going we'll come to realize the risk is worth the effort.
Enjoy the one precious life you have.

A trip to Paris is a lesson in happiness and an intense enlightenment
on the value of personal courage.
Follow your heart. Live your dream.
If you see a chance, take it.

4 Comments

Back to the Future in Paris

1/23/2021

7 Comments

If I've learned only one thing from this wretched pandemic, it's this:
DO MORE OF WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.

"If you are interested in something, no matter what it is, go at it at full speed ahead.
Embrace it with both arms, hug it, love it and above all become passionate about it."
Roald Dahl, British Writer
Words to live by.

Chasing the dream is more important than ever.
And looking ahead is one vaccine you don't need to wait for....

Now is the perfect time to re-imagine the future
minus the torment of this worldwide plague.
Look back, think about what you've missed most
and make a solemn promise to yourself.
From this day forward focus on achieving that one shining wish.

We can't wait to hug our families and share a meal with friends.
Getting back to the most elementary basics seem both glorious and glamorous.
Shopping, parties, the theater -- the list is long --
will make your mouth water with anticipation.

But for many of us, reuniting with Paris eclipses everything.
I feel no shame in that, only a sort of relief that it will indeed be part of my future.

So say it, engrave your name on it, just do it:
DO MORE OF WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.

"Happiness is not something ready-made. It comes from your own actions."
Dalai Lama

I've been to Paris multiple times -- so many, in fact, that I'm always
plotting to see the "unseen" parts that most travelers miss.
Yet this time, after a year worrying about the possibilities of loved ones
falling ill, my country falling apart, and the strange irony of the calendar
becoming a virtual Groundhog Day, all I really want to do
is go back and recognize the Paris I already know.

I just want to experience everything I've already
enjoyed in what now feels like a distant past.
Just the thought makes me want to sing and wag my tail
like a dog coming home from a long stay at the kennel.

Truth is, returning to Paris is like checking on an old friend
after a long illness to make sure she's ok.

A walk down the Champs Elysée is about as unoriginal as it gets... but I can't wait!
I want to savor every one of the 284 steps of the Arc de Triomphe
so I can enjoy its strategic view of the city. Again.
There's no holding back this Paris nut from the unconditional glamour
of the grand staircase and hallways at the Palais Garnier. One more time.
Who cares if I've done it before -- there's a burning desire to retrace every step.

I can almost taste the legendary goodness of an Eric Kayser baguette; the moment
I leave his store I'll break off a corner for one more taste as if it's my first.
I can picture the Burghers of Calais standing faithfully in Rodin's garden
and plan to scrutinize every emotion on each of their faces.
Again and again and again....

Yes, I hope to do every cliched thing there is
to do in Paris -- that I've already done -- and I feel no shame.

"Be fearless in the pursuit of what sets your soul on fire."
Jennifer Lee, screenwriter

Père Lachaise's avenues of the famously dead definitely warrant a return visit
to make sure all my "friends" are still lying in their artful splendor.
Special shout out to resident Oscar Wilde who once said
"Either that wallpaper goes, or I do."
He must have been waiting out a pandemic too....

And the parks. Oh the parks. They're the very best of what Paris has to offer.
I can't wait to gaze at the nannies pushing their charges' prams in Parc Monceau.
Of course, my Sunday morning favorite is a
prolonged stroll through Luxembourg Gardens.
It's likely the old men of the park have to compete for tables with
the younger set now that "The Queen's Gambit" made chess so popular.
Perhaps I'll even spy a movie star or two.... once again.

"Let your memory be your travel bag."
Alexander Solzhenitsyn

I want to stroll the elegant boulevards
from Boulevard Haussmann to Place Vendome.
A day later, I may choose the opposite and make my way
to the slightly timeworn neighborhoods where clever graffiti,
affordable boutiques and food specialty stores rule the day.

Paris has always been an alphabet soup of contrasts.
Go ahead, wear Grandma's pearls, your favorite jeans
and worn-in pair of Chucks -- you'll fit right in.

And the views!
Who wouldn't want to stop and admire the vast panorama from
the rooftop of Printemps and feel the wind?
Or check out the cityscape from Parc de Belleville, a delightful and
entirely unassuming stretch of green in the 20th arrondissement.

Napoleon's tomb is a sight for sore eyes, the six nested coffins
resting regally underneath the dome of Les Invalides.
Nearby, Pont Alexandre III is a bridge whose views are so beautiful
you need to take care not to cross at sunset or you may never leave.

"Thou art to me a delicious torment."*
Ralph Waldo Emerson, American Poet
*though RWE was not talking about Paris, it seems the perfect sentiment when thinking of Paris

Every meal in Paris is pure magic.
In normal times, I'd return to a few delicious favorites
but still focus on trying what's new and noteworthy.
In this foodie capital, there's perpetually something up and coming
and it's always a joy to take the dive.
But as I face my own cooking day after day, it's the
oldies-but-goodies -- those tried-and-true Paris bistros
that have been around forever -- that sound better than ever.

I'm crossing every finger that our favorite bistros and cafés
are still alive and kicking after the lockdown.
It's funny but some of the food I miss most are the most simple -- a sandwich
on Poilane bread, carottes rapées (carrot salad), a scoop of ice cream....

Food markets are a special favorite, impossible to choose where to begin.
I have so many favorites -- Bastille Market and the organic Raspail Market
as well favorite market streets like rue Poncelet and rue Daguerre.
We amateur connoisseurs know to arrive hungry having learned we
can get a bite or two of amazing street food on site.

I live in Nashville, Tennessee and feel pretty lucky we're
now able to procure some excellent French cheeses.
But 365 different types? Ah non.
Tasting fromage from a special purveyor is like taking a trip to
Normandy or Provence or even the mountains of the Jura....
It's easy to travel France by way of your cheese* plate.
*wine and fine spirits should also receive a shout-out here -- Armagnac,
Pinot de Charente and pastis are just a few personal favorites.

Perhaps you're reluctant to dream about the future
since our current state-of-being is such a rollercoaster.
Here is my personal mantra. Hope it helps you make the leap.
"A wise woman can predict the future because she creates it."
Anonymous

Throughout this pandemic, we've been living history each and every day.
It's not been a bed of roses, for sure, but when it's over,
we'll feel like we've prevailed on our own season of "Survivor."

But still, we wait, we watch, we hope.

Just planning a trip to Paris lifts us out of our year of discontent
if only for a few minutes a day.
Lingering anxiety notwithstanding, re-imagining ourselves on the streets
of Paris helps move our battered brains from heartache to happiness.

If the thought of light streaming into the stained glass windows
of Sainte-Chapelle help you see the light at the end of the tunnel,
why wouldn't you choose to focus on your very own happy ending?
Think Paris. Every day. Until you get there.

If your world has been feeling like the nightmare dreams of Salvadore Dali,
then perhaps a long look at Monet's waterlilies will lift you up.
Giggle over all the Mona Lisa in Quarantine memes that
have popped up all over the internet.
Take a virtual tour of one of many Paris museums on offer, often free.
But most importantly, make a plan to return in person.

Musée d'Orsay alone offers reason to visit Paris.
Musée Carnavalet has just re-opened after an extensive rehab effort.
Angelina's is still serving amazing hot chocolate.
And who doesn't want to cheer the laborers toiling away
high on the rooftop of Notre Dame?
Joan of Arc would have. So will I.

Hear it? Paris is calling.

Let's face it.
Many of us have the time -- there's too much of it during these
stay-at-home days -- so go ahead and succumb to your best faraway fantasy.

Consider a tour of your favorite writer's life in Paris or take a cooking class.
Instead of feeling like a victim of the plague, turn the tide with a
renewed appreciation of what you love most.

Full speed ahead.
If it makes you feel better, buy a goofy "Emily in Paris" beret
and wear it while you clean the bathroom. It's your movie.
We've all been shaken by our recent history and occasionally
fall victim to unhealthy resentment and hopelessness.
Don't cry uncle. Defeat the monster.

Remember these words:*
"It's a new dawn
and a new day
It's a new life for me
and I'm feeling good."
*from that fabulous '60's tune that Nina Simone made famous

DO MORE OF WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.
Back to the future in Paris!

7 Comments

Color Your World Bright in Trentemoult

12/19/2020

2 Comments

Being "on trend" has never been a thing with me.
Following up-to-the-minute fashion and/or interior design has
always felt like a pain in the backside and a waste of time.
But every year, when the Pantone Color Institute announces
their Color of the Year, I sit up and take notice.
Why?? I'm not sure.
Maybe it goes back to the day my older brother
was gifted a box of 64 Crayola crayons.
I was green (as in Spring, Sea, Forest, & Sour Apple) with envy.

Color, depending on the depth & hue, can bring a dash of zip
or a measure of serenity to even the most ordinary circumstances.
Pretty colors lift your spirits and stimulate your senses; on the
other hand, soft tones offer a warm, relaxing dose of calm.

So why bring up my affection for color?
France, forever a bastion of passionate color and luminous intensity,
often reminds us of of the joy beautiful color brings to our emotional reality.
Last fall, when visiting Nantes, I crossed the Loire River
to a curious little sideshow on its left bank.
Trentemoult, just a 10-minute ferry* ride from Nantes' city center,
is a color wheel of fun, a town emblazoned with Crayola tints that
animate the streets from one end to the other.
*Take the Navibus from Gare Maritime in Nantes to Trentemoult for less than 2 euros.

Trentemoult was established as a fishing village and still
feels like one in spite of its growth.
Though now part of the larger suburb of Rezé, it has more of an island feel
than a bedroom community blossoming from the big city across the river.

Colorful streets and houses make for a cheerful afternoon even on a cloudy day.
A few hours well spent, a visit is sure to perk you up.
Looking like a storybook village where Popeye and Olive Oyl might reside, Trentemoult's outlandish color palette and nautical vibe
are sure to win everyone over.

When you go, don't expect big museums or high falutin' monuments.
The town is, in a word, cute, an endearing stop for an afternoon's stroll.
It's a getaway, an escape that feels far (though it's not) from city sounds.

"Let's not travel to tick things off lists or collect half hearted semi-treasures to be placed in dusty drawers in empty rooms. Rather we'll travel to find grounds and rooftops and tiny hidden parks, where we'll sit and dismiss the passing time...."
Victoria Erickson, author/poet

The great Walt Disney once said "Fantasy and reality often overlap."

Trentemoult feels like a school girl playing dress-up, decked out in
her mama's colorful garb, bejeweled and grinning from ear to ear.
Street art is prevalent, full of fun and mischief.
The unrestrained glory of these colorful streets share space with artist
studios, breezy bars and restaurants showcasing the local catch of the day.
A beer or two, an unhurried sense of satisfaction and a drop in blood pressure
are the gifts that make for fond memories in this riverside town.

I love a surprise and Trentemoult doesn't disappoint.
Due it is special micro-climate, you'll even spy a few palm trees here and there,
very unexpected in a part of France that is far from the Mediterranean.
The trees were brought in by sailors and high ranking naval personnel.

"Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it."
Norman Maclean, American Writer - "A River Runs Through It"

Ad poster from a cookie company in Nantes features a fisherman and a woman from Trentemoult. (Museum of Brittany)

Gorgeous crayola colors come alive in this river town.

Palm trees in the Loire Atlantique? Sure thing when you enjoy their unique micro-climate.

A local memorial dedicated to sailors lost at sea.

Though this statue of a young Jules Verne resides in nearby Nantes, one can't help but wonder if the future adventure writer was dreaming of Trentemoult across the river. Surely his future fictional characters knew of this sailor's retreat.

Why all the color?
Local legend claims the enterprising -- and frugal -- sailors of the town would return home with a little extra paint originally intended for the hulls of their ships.
Today's residents are proud to keep the tradition alive.
It makes Trentemoult a destination, not just a nod to suburbia.

Much like the village atmosphere of Montmartre in Paris,
Trentemoult is poles apart from its big sister across the river.

"Every girl loves a sailor."
Olive Oyl

Pretty houses line the streets, often with gorgeous little architectural details and gardens.

This house is named My Dream. Indeed....

I hope you'll consider a little jaunt across the river next time you visit Nantes.

While you're dreaming of Nantes -- the-many-faces-of-nantes.html -- and
Trentemoult -- or for that matter any place in the extraordinary Loire Atlantique,
how about a little aptly named cocktail to get you in the mood.
Here's a recipe for Sailor's Sunset from the drink website PUNCH.

SAILOR'S SUNSET:

1 1/2 ounces dark rum (preferably Jamaican)
1/2 oz Campari
1/2 oz lime juice
1/2 oz grapefruit juice
1/2 oz simple syrup (1:1 sugar & water)
2 ounces ginger ale
garnish: crystalized ginger slice

Add rum, Campari, lime juice, grapefruit juice and simple syrup to a cocktail shaker.
Add ice and shake until chilled.
Strain over ice into a Collins glass.
Top with ginger soda and garnish with a crystallized ginger slice

Feel better now?
Sometimes all it takes is a little imagination, a stiff cocktail
and the passion to plan another adventure in France.
Anyway, that's how I do it.....

Cheers! How about a sailor's toast to go with your cocktail:
There are good ships,
there are wood ships,
and the ships that sail the seas.
But the best ships are the friendships,
and may they always be.

2 Comments

Lost in Space

11/17/2020

1 Comment

You likely know the panicked feeling of losing
your keys, your phone or, God forbid, your passport.
More often than not, the quest to find the missing item is
a pretty easy mission even though the knot in the
pit of your stomach may remain for a while.

What if getting lost -- in this case, it's YOU who has gone astray -- turns out
to be just the thing you need at a particular point in time.
Letting go of the "vision" -- you know, the painstakingly drawn itinerary
that must (haha) be followed to the letter during every precious
Paris day -- can be heaven-sent if you're in the right place at the right time.

The day arrived for our trek to the Bois de Vincennes -- the
largest park in Paris -- located on the eastern edge of the city.
I had it perfectly planned -- or so I thought.
We'd take the metro to Porte Dorée, make a quick stop at the
Immigration Museum* and then forge a pre-planned path to see
the best of the park, hopefully preserving enough time and energy for
a walk-through the Chateau of Vincennes.
*Musée National de l'Histoire de l'Immigration, sometimes call the Palais de la Porte Dorée

After enjoying an appropriately leisurely lunch, we were already
behind schedule but feeling pretty unbothered at this point.
After all, we had a gloriously colorful fall
afternoon to take in a park and its surrounds.

What I wasn't anticipating, however, was getting lost in the mammoth space.
The seemingly boundless green space is well-signed and as I always
carry my handy-dandy phone that whispers directions in my ear,
I assumed it would be a cakewalk to spot the specific sights I was looking for.

"Sometimes people need to take the wrong path
in order to lead them to the right one."
Nashoda Rose, author

Just in case you don't enjoy long walks, you can rent these cute little bike-carts called rosalies.

The park -- a wooded area divided into strategically themed
zones, is the largest* green space in Paris.
Miles and miles of wooded paths, pretty green parkland and
manmade lakes make for diverse entertainment.
*nearly three times the size of NYC's Central Park!

Around 1150, the 2500 acres of woodland were
originally confined to a royal hunting ground.
But Emperor Napoleon III had big dreams, yearning
to dedicate the upgraded forest back to the people of Paris.
His modern vision soon transformed the princely hunting ground
into a park for the people, beginning in 1855.

With over fifty miles of walking paths and several artificial lakes,
the emperor's vision metamorphosed into a resounding success.
Nature lovers share the space with ducks, geese and swans
as well as dozens of bird species -- including the famed grey heron -- that
treasure the trees and flowers as much as those of us without wings.

One section within the Bois is called Parc Floral de Paris.
It's a huge botanical garden, filled with cascades of French families walking,
biking and riding in fun rented "buggies" called rosalies.

A real standout, Parc Floral is deeply devoted to ecology and plant preservation.
The park is very much like Paris with its dual nature, a lesson in contrasts.
Seemingly incompatible, family entertainment and environmental science
manage to co-exist in what turns out to be a beautiful romance.

"The more civilized man becomes, the more he needs and craves
a great background of forest wildness, to which he may return
like a contrite prodigal from the husks of an artificial life."
Ellen Burns Sherman, American author

The Bois de Vincennes is a B-I-G place.
As we walked and walked, I realized we were off-course -- literally lost in space.
The signs -- even Google maps -- weren't any help.
And then it hit me.
The "plan" didn't matter.
The Bois was beautiful and restful. And that was enough.

Looking in the rear view mirror of my "good old days" in corporate America,
I was obsessed with having a plan and sticking to it.
It worked well in the office, certainly, but some of that
narrow self-restraint remains with me to this day.
So it was an eye-opening moment to wake up to the opportunity
to just amble along and sniff out whatever came our way.

Experiencing nature is a deeply emotional experience; you cut loose,
let your hair down, and experience the exhilaration of total freedom.
The Bois de Vincennes was the perfect place
to blow off the world and all its cares.
The "list" lost its importance and I learned a lesson in liberation.

"Those who do not move do not notice their chains."
Rosa Luxemburg, Polish philosophy & revolutionary

Don't miss the butterfly pavilion.

Pure calm, artistic expression through nature

With over fifty miles of walking paths, expect to run into some surprises.
Be aware that during part of the season, there is a small section
devoted to nudists -- but don't worry, you can* easily bypass the zone.
*actually you MUST bypass it unless you, too, are baring your all; it's specifically
designated for naturalists only -- no voyeurs allowed.

The park also boasts a Hippodrome where 1,000 races a year take place.
A day at the races is likely best saved for those who pre-plan the event.
Instead, row around one of the lakes or enjoy a round of miniature golf.
If you're lucky, you may run into a concert or perhaps a festival.
Jazz is very popular here and the park hosts a fine festival in July.
Consider packing a picnic.

"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of life."
Thomas Jefferson, 3rd President of the United States & Paris connoisseur

With miles and miles of forested paths, this is not an artist's vision of an urban park; it's just stunningly natural.

I never did find the Jardin d'Agronomie Tropicale -- but it gives me a good reason to return to the park.

In spite of suffering through a myriad of transformation, Chateau de Vincennes
is considered one of the most important medieval royal residences.
From castle to weapons dump to porcelain factory, its fortified walls
have sustained both triumph and humiliation.

Construction began in 1336 on the site of a hunting ground,
next to a little chapel that allegedly held an important
religious relic from the True Cross of Christ.
Expansion on the chateau continued as did the chapel,
rebuilt in the manner of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.
By 1654, royal architect Louis Le Vau began to build a new palace
that would surround the spare military donjon.

Though the chateau was a royal residence for 500 years, it's heyday was
over once the Chateau de Versailles became center of the universe.
Transformed into a prison, it gained historical significance once again.
I toured the interior almost twenty years ago but still vividly remember the
Marquis de Sade's cell where he was imprisoned for seven years beginning in 1777. During WWI, infamous spy Mata Hari was imprisoned and executed, allegedly refusing a blindfold and boldly staring into the eyes of the firing squad.

"I am a woman who enjoys herself very much; sometimes I lose, sometimes I win."
Mata Hari, infamous spy

King Henri V - often referred to as "Good King Henri" -- died here in 1422.

A statue of Louis IXth -- Saint Louis -- stands proudly near the medieval chateau.

The chapel at Vincennes may remind you of another -- Sainte-Chapelle in Paris -- for good reason.

Part of the plan was to make a quick stop at
the Musée National de l'Histoire de l'Immigration.
In order to take advantage of the beautiful day, we decided to save the museum
for a rainy day but at least we paused long enough to admire its distinct facade.
We came to a standstill at the Fontaine de la Porte Dorée where a
jaw-dropping golden image of the warrior Athena proudly rules the square.

As you approach the Bois, you'll notice the "mountain" leading to the zoo.
Parc Zoologique de Paris lays claim to over 2,000 animals including sea lions, rhinoceros, giraffes, flamingos, penguins and wolves to name a few.
The wildlife park is packed with life exhibits and adventures including
a tropical tree house and environmentally themed biozones.

Biodiversity reigns at the zoo with five distinct biozones to promote environmentalism as much as the animals.

A taste of old Imperial France exists at the Palais de la Dorée. The facade alone is worth the walk.

The Bois de Vincennes hosted the Summer Olympics of 1900.
It was hardly the Olympic phenomenon we know today.
Back then, the "big" events were golden oldies competitions
such as croquet, tug-of-war and hot-air ballooning.

There was an upside though; it was the first Olympics
where women were allowed to compete*.
*women were permitted to battle in "ladylike" sports such as croquet, tennis and golf -- but hey, it was a start...

Currently, the Bois is preparing for the Paris Olympics of 2024.
Let the games begin!

So is the Bois de Vincennes as magnificent as
some of the better-known parks in Paris?
In a word, no.

This particular park exists for an entirely different reason.
Many Paris gardens are so beautiful you might think Coco Chanel
or Yves Saint-Laurent "dressed" them.
Rather than the designer-influenced impeccability we've grown so accustomed
to in our favorites like the romantic Luxembourg Gardens or the elegant
Parc Monceau or Place des Vosges, the Bois is a wooded hideaway
that feels much more wild.
It feels far from Paris -- yet it's not; this is the 12th arrondissement,
literally just fifteen minutes from the very center of the city.

So ok, I'll admit I missed the "attraction" I most wanted to see -- the
Jardin d'Agronomie Tropicale, an Asian-themed garden that harks back
to the Colonial Exhibition of 1931.
But that's quite alright; it's a reason to return.

Getting lost in the Bois was a happy accident.
Re-discovering how to "roll with the punches"
was exactly what the doctor ordered.
A glass of cognac at the end of the day topped an afternoon
filled with pure indulgence and emotional fulfillment.
So the next time you've "lost" your agenda or flubbed your timetable,
consider nature as the ultimate guide on the road less traveled.
Happy trails to you!

"Nature gives to every time and season some beauties of its own; and from
morning to night, as from the cradle to the grave, it is but a succession
of changes so gentle and easy that we can scarcely mark their progress."
Charles Dickens

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Take a Vacation from Your Vacation

10/10/2020

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Ahhhh, vacation, how we miss you!
Nevertheless, as much as we miss those magical moments,
admittedly there are times when we get too wound up in
the one-track-mind-melt of a whirlwind travel adventure.
With too many "to-do" lists and over-planned goal fulfilment --
guilty as charged -- a feeling of overwhelming stress knocks us flat.
Wipe Out!

Yeah, it's happened to me too.
So that's why, in the middle of my holiday extravaganza
I've started planning a vacation-from-my-vacation.
It's not the usual strategy -- an exhaustive list of must-see stops.
Instead, I cherry-pick an out-of-the-way village that's a
quick train ride away from the city I'm staying in.

A day of just hanging out -- no expectations, limited brain function
and zero stress -- leaving just enough room for the satisfaction of knowing
you've achieved nothing more than a clean bill of physical & mental health.
And you know what -- it works like a charm.

Little Le Croisic is a town so steeped in Breton charm
you'd expect it to be in the heart of Brittany.
Amazingly, it's not.
Just a bit more than an hour's train ride from the unforgettable city of Nantes,
Le Croisic is situated in the seaside sector of the Loire-Atlantique.
Come take a slow walk with me.

"I may not have gone where I intended to go,
but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
Douglas Adams, English author/screenwriter

A sweet little crepe restaurant is just the ticket to a memorable day of doing nothing.

Le Croisic is a harbor town situated just south of Brittany.
Located on the Guerande Peninsula -- where you'll find salt pans gleaming under
the bright sun -- it's a resort town revered for its local seafood specialties.
Tiny pink shrimp* called le bouquet du Croisic, are just one of
the many fresh-from-the-sea delicacies to look for.
The area is charmingly called the Route des Coquillages**,
known and appreciated for their highly specialized cockle farming.
*la crevette rose
**the shellfish trail

Granite houses, colorful creperies and uncommon specialty stores line the harbor.
Since the 16th century, salt has been exported from the nearby marshes.
Delicate fleur-de-sel -- the "white gold" of France --
offers the indescribable salty tang of the beach.
Along with fresh sea air, it's a living postcard, the ultimate
"port in a storm" -- where you'll find instant comfort and perfect calm.

Just one of several locally owned bistros specializing in the fresh catch of the day prepared Breton-style.

If you don't mind crowds, Le Croisic hosts its Fete du Mer* every
August when hundreds of seafood-loving pleasure-seekers descend
on the small town to celebrate the blessing of the fisherman.
A blowout of food, traditional music, fireworks and dancing make
for one big party though in truth, boats have lined the historic
harbor for this event since 1893.
All come to honor those who have perished at sea.
*sea festival

It hardly surprising that Le Croisic plays host to a literary event each fall.
A book fair is logical when you consider all the writers & poets who
convened on the town gathering inspiration for their work.
The great Honoré de Balzac once gushed over its natural beauty,
comparing Le Croisic to Venice in an open sea.
High praise indeed.

"Vulgar souls look hastily and superficially at the sea and accuse it of monotony; other more privileged beings could spend a lifetime admiring and discovering
new and changing phenomena that delight them. So it is with love."
Honoré de Balzac

Color & character feature prominently in Le Croisic's unique architecture.

Take note of the sign in both French and Breton languages.

If you're a fan of half-timbered houses, you'll be happy as a clam in this seaside town.

I visited Le Croisic on a quiet October day*.
It was gloriously crowd-free and the weather was exquisite.
*I recommend going mid-week if all possible to avoid crowds.

This little piece of heaven is tailor-made for a slow stroll.
Drop into the bakery AND the chocolate shop, calories be damned.
Say oui to some gorgeously tinned sardines or a bag or two of the local salt.
Check into a few of the adorable little gift shops where you're sure to
find something to light up your memory years from now.

Coastal walks and pretty parks surround the town but if you've got little
more than rest and relaxation in mind, stop at a local creperie and dig in.
Begin with a savory galette -- that's a crepe made with
buckwheat flour -- perhaps filled with ham and cheese or for the
adventurous palate, one with seared scallops and caramelized mushrooms.
Order a hard cider to go alongside and follow with a with salted butter caramel
dessert crepe if you still find room in your well gratified tummy.
Perfect comfort, perfect vacation food, perfect triumph.

"There are times when we stop, we sit still, we listen and
breezes from a whole other world begin to whisper."
James Carroll, American author & journalist

Hervé Riel, a local fisherman-hero, saved the entire French fleet in 1692.

France always remembers to honor her allies -- here, the USA in WWI.

The actually port of Le Croisic doesn't offer the broad
ocean views and crashing waves you might expect.
Nothing but a narrow channel of water allows boats into the historic harbor.
If you desire wider ocean views, venture a bit further
and the wild Atlantic will greet you.

If you prefer a "deeper" view, head -- close to an hour away -- to the Océarium,
a major tourist attraction that features sharks, penguins
and every category of sea life you can imagine.

During WWI, the United States launched a Naval Air Station
in Le Croisic to fly combat patrols.
Seaplanes flew in and out as hordes of American troops landed
to protect the coast and the cause of the French/American alliance.

As told by Jesse George Schmidt, Chief Quartermaster, U.S. Navy, Vanderburg County, Indiana:
"I was attached to the Le Croisic Naval air station which patrolled and convoyed
all vessels in and out of St. Nazaire, France on the Loire River.
It was claimed that over a third of all the American troops landed there and
more left for USA from there after the war, and not a vessel was lost
after the Americans took over the air station at Le Croisic, which was due
to their alert convoy and patrol duty, as stated in a letter to the commanding officer
of the station, by the French Admiral, in commendation of sector."*
*quote from WWIVets.com

During WWII, the tables were turned.
This time, it was the Nazi forces who gained control of Le Croisic.
Their singular goal was to build a radar station.
The mission was clear: Protect nearby Saint-Nazaire
where the lethal fleet of German submarines were stationed.
Remarkably, in 1942, their mission was subverted by the brave efforts
of the British Royal Navy and British Commandos in a historic raid
that helped stem the tide of the war.
Operation Chariot was a stunning success for the Allies' war effort.

"The world must know what happened, and never forget."
Dwight D. Eisenhower, 34th U.S. President

The coat of arms on the old fish market seems fit for a king.

The narrow channel of water makes for some good mud pies when the water is low.

Lobster pots arouse delicious flashbacks of seafood dinners on the port.

A kouignette is a specialty of the region -- a mini-kougin-amann -- an irresistibly sweet, sticky, salty treat.

"Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow."
Anita Desai, Indian novelist

Uncomplicated, unpretentious, little Le Croisic is a lesson
in the joys found in the simple pleasures of life.
Don't we live for that ONE GLORIOUS MOMENT where we feel
the wind in our hair and the sun on our face?

So settle down and discover your own personal piece of heaven.
This is a great place to take a time out for YOU.

Just like real life, I'm sure there are rainy days on
this gorgeous little maze of streets in the Loire-Atlantique.
But just like real life -- and frenzied holidays -- a day that includes some
time-out time may just revive your vacation spirit -- come rain or shine.

"Enjoy the little things for one day you may look back
and realize they were the big things."
Robert Brault, author

Vacation blues or vacation bliss?
You decide.
For my money, I prefer to sneak in a mini vacation-from-my-vacation.
A town like Le Croisic is a perfectly lovely way to spend a few precious
hours doing as much nothing as humanly possible.

Remember, you can always be energetic tomorrow.
The moment you start to get too serious on your furlough-from-real-life,
take into account these wise words:

"Life goes by fast. Enjoy it. Calm down. It's all funny."
Joan Rivers, American Comic Legend

Bon voyage friends!

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Salvadore Dali's Walk on the Wild Side

9/12/2020

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During this never-to-be-forgotten moment in time it feels like we're
living in a surrealistic world, a quarantine-induced theme park
of dreams, hallucinations and unsettled fears.
None of us can wait for the day we'll be able to relegate
this upside down world to the rear view mirror.

Now looking back, my visit to the Salvador Dali Museum in Paris last fall
was perhaps a premonition of things to come, his melting clocks and
fantastical sculptures not quite as absurd as I previously thought.

The museum, Espace Dali, packs a punch.
Whether you like him or you're otherwise inclined and tend to
avoid this brand of modern art, the museum is worth a visit.
Smack in the middle of Montmartre, the small space fills every nook
with the surreal, a dreamscape of wild imagination that made me feel as
if I was live streaming directly from the artist's unhinged subconscious.

One thing is certain, Dali's art is not demure.
He delivers the goods -- in all caps and exclamation points.
The disorienting artist spent a lifetime
expressing his dreams and fantasies.
He produced a massive collection of paintings and sculpture --
even furniture -- that exposed his far-flung imagination.
From pornographic sketches that are both amazing and provocative
(don't worry, you won't seem them here) to a living-room setting brandishing
a sofa with all the hallmarks of Mae West's lips, a visit to
this museum is an unforgettable brush with talent and weirdness.

"I am not strange. I am just not normal"
Salvador Dali

Dali's abstract Michelin model mimics Michelangelo's famous Slaves sculpture reimagined in an auto assembly plant.

Dali was obsessed with Alice in Wonderland whose mind adventures were as strange as his own.

Salvadore Dali, born in Figueres Spain, began art studies at the age of ten
and soon fell in love with the masters; Goya and Rembrandt were favorites.
Eventually expelled from art school*, he found his way to Paris
where he became friends with many of his idols.
Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro introduced Dali
to the godfather of surrealism, writer/poet André Breton.
This audaciously creative group of artists and intellectuals throbbed
with a kinetic energy, focusing on endless debate that centered
on the subconscious, psychoanalysis and sexual repression.
Together they pushed one another to create an artistic rainbow
that linked the dream-world with their own reality.
*He refused to sit for final exams since, in his view, he was more intelligent than his professors

Regrettably, some of Dali's more biased visions didn't sit well
with many of his most talented friends.
Though immensely gifted and focused on promoting their emerging
surrealistic movement, Dali became an outlier
as soon as his political leanings became known.
The avant-garde artist, so hip and progressive on the outside,
held a morbid fascination with authoritarians like Spain's Francisco Franco.
Most of his compadres leaned left but Dali's far right
political mindset isolated him from the rest of the group.
His sick obsession with Hitler* quickly led
to the end of many friendships.
*Dali's painting, "The Enigma of Hitler" was not one of his better loved works

While he enjoyed dallying with the diabolical and depraved,
he also knew the value of being popular and admired.
The feud both emboldened and bothered him for the remainder of his life.

"Let my enemies devour one another."
Salvadore Dali

So while I'd consider wearing a baguette on my head, I'd be wary of ants crawling up my forehead...

Dali tribute to Mae West's pout. As she once said, "When I'm good, I'm very very good. But when I'm bad, I'm better."

There have been countless arguments over the meaning of Dali's woman with drawers.

Dali was notorious for hoofing it all around Paris with his pet ocelot Babou.
The fashionable artist would sometimes change his "look" by
switching to yet another exotic mammal -- an anteater. Um, sure....
Thinking I could never relate to such a free spirit*, when I eventually
discovered his famous melting clock was inspired by a block of Camembert
melting in the sun, I could see it was possible we could be simpatico -- at
least when it comes to dreaming about French cheese.....
*ok, what I really mean is nut-job.

Espace Dali shows off the artist's lighter side, iconic mustache
and carefully curated far-flung imagination.
It's pretty jaw-dropping to realize he could paint like the masters
but chose to fall off the mountain of "normal" to create a category
of art that demanded four-alarm fire attention.

Salvadore Dali's ambitions were sky-high.
As he stated so bluntly, "At the age of six, I wanted to be a cook.
At seven, I wanted to be Napoleon and my ambition has been growing ever since."

He would go to great lengths to satisfy his artistic and commercial appetites.
And it worked.

Dali's passion for fashion shows up in this red shoe sculpture.

Is Woman Inflamed on fire or is she burning with passion? You decide.

The artist's life included a strange but long-lasting love for wife Gala.
Their unconventional marriage added to the legend of Dali.
Gala Dali operated as both wife and chief promoter.
She facilitated many of his shows, exhibiting extraordinary business
acumen while maintaining a passionate interest in surrealism.

Gala, Russian-born in 1884 -- was first married
to famous French poet Paul Eluard.
Gala's first affair (pre-Dali) -- rumored to have been a menage-a-trois between
her, first husband Eluard and French surrealist Max Ernst, disclosed the type
of behavior that would soon be commonplace in her second marriage.

Gala threw Eluard over when she met Dali and eventually they married.
It was a strange union.
Twenty years his senior, it was a way-out love match to say the least.
She continued to enjoy many affairs yet Dali steadfastly remained
head-over-heels in love with his lusty wife/manager.

Without question, she cared and motivated her husband's artistic genius.
Yet at the same time, she spent his money as fast as he could
make it -- usually on young lovers who were half her age.
On the eve of her death, Gala was 84-years-old and involved
with a 22-year-old Broadway* star.
*Jeff Fenholt of "Jesus Christ Superstar fame

When Gala died, Dali placed two tombs side-by-side with a tiny space
in the middle so they could hold hands for all eternity.

"I love her more than my mother, more than my father,
more than Picasso, more than money."
Salvadore Dali speaking of his wife Gala

The museum claims this sculpture represents the holy Trinity. You say potato; I say potahto....

Setting the table, surrealist style

Salvador Dali experienced life larger and bolder than most.
He was resolutely committed to his craft,
living and producing from inside his subconscious.
What an interesting place that must have been.

Genius or clown?
That's for you to decide.
His art is indescribable; I won't even try.
The next time you're in Paris, I hope you'll give this museum a look.
Paris unfailingly unlocks our imagination; Espace Dali may
take that insight one step further.

"While we are asleep in this world, we are awake in another one."
Salvador Dali

Perhaps that explains the cockeyed inside-out world we're living in today....

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Lisle-sur-Tarn: Magic in the Bastide

8/11/2020

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Planning a vacation in France need not be complicated.
At times though, trying to decide the where, when & how is
a headscratcher -- such a staggering range of eye-popping destinations.
Narrowing down the choices is like trying to
decide which shoes to pack on a three-week trip.
A girl needs options -- insert scream here...

Toulouse was our home base; as we had previously visited a handful
of nearby favorites such as Albi and Carcassonne, I suspected
finding new inspiration would be a bit more challenging.
This time, I was married to the idea of going completely off the tourist map.

Looking for an obscure village was easy; the area is loaded with possibilities
but the key was finding one reachable by train from Toulouse -- preferably
no more than a journey of only 20 minutes or so -- and one that
would hopefully encompass the heart of rural Occitanie.

In the end, the decision was a no-brainer.
There was only one village that not only met the requirements but offered
an unexpected enticement -- a CHOCOLATE MUSEUM & TASTING.
Talk about "sweetening the pot";
Lisle-sur-Tarn was a shoo-in.

"All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then never hurts."
Charles M. Schulz

Lisle-sur-Tarn is a bastide village.
A bastide village is a type of town built on a well-defined geometric plan.
Typically built in the 13th or 14th century, these villages -- very popular
in France's southwest quadrant -- are usually made up
of a central square surrounded by arcades.

As you can see, Lisle-sur-Tarn fits the bastide mold perfectly.
Storefronts, restaurants and houses still line the well kept streets.

The village, laid out in a well-planned composition, provided the ideal
formula for life in the Middle Ages, based on an open square
design that was used for markets and social gatherings.
City Hall was built front and center, making the village square
made-to-order for political gatherings as well.

Many bastide villages disappeared in the 19th and 20th centuries as residents
fled the countryside in favor of a more prosperous life promised by
cities willing and able to provide a better means to earn a living.

It's a pleasure to wander these well planned streets.
The flawlessly harmonious corridors offer a distinct historical perspective.
Perfectly preserved, Lisle-sur-Tarn quietly shines
in spite of its relatively little discovered status.

"Love makes the world go round, but chocolate makes the trip worthwhile."
Author Unknown

Informative and delicious, Le Musée Art du Chocolat
is a traveler's oasis in the desert.
Chocolate has always been an open and shut case in the seduction department,
a can't-say-no to its dizzying charms.
The museum will stimulate your senses with its in-depth one-on-one
"education du gout" in all things born of one of the world's
most precious resources -- the cacao bean.

After a short educational film, we were treated to several rooms
filled with original chocolate sculptures created by a master chocolatier.
Rodin may have met his match -- at least in the olfactory department...

The exhibit features a wide variety of subjects including famous French
landmarks, African elephants, creatures of the sea and an elegant
bride and groom lusciously decked out in white chocolate.
From jazz quartets to a pilgrim making his way to St James de Compostela,
you're sure to get a kick out of this chocolate-covered path.
Our yearning for a taste of the sweet bean grew with each step.

Even TinTin and Snowy are featured in the chocolate exhibit!

A life-size sculpture of love and motherhood.

Literally swimming in chocolate....yum.

The part of the tour we looked forward to most was here at last.
Made comfortable in a private seating area, we were treated to a lovely tasting.
Our chocolate expert was like a dream-come-true genie; she took great pains
to carefully characterize what we were tasting and the process it took
to get from bean to mouth.

Our biggest surprise was the white chocolate -- which I've never
loved -- too sweet, pale and wimpy.
She spun the now famous story of French chocolatier Valrhona
as we sampled a taste of their bar labeled Blond Dulcey.
Beginning its life as white* chocolate, the cook accidentally left it
in the double-boiler for too long.
Intrigued by this boo-boo, he saw possibilities in its distinct
caramel-like cookie aroma and enriched color.
It took Valrhona eight years to perfect the cook's faux-pas
but much to our delighted surprise, it was delicious.
Creamy, toasty, weirdly satisfying -- especially for someone
who prefers her chocolate on the bitter side (72% plus).
*I guess you would still call it white chocolate at only 32% beurre de cacao
though the color is sort of pale butterscotch.

It was a true education.
Afterwards, we stopped at the boutique and filled every pocket with our favorites. Did I mention it was still morning?

"After eating chocolate you feel godlike, as though you can
conquer enemies, lead armies, entice lovers."
Emily Luchetti, American pastry chef & chocolate-lover

Well, I haven't done any of that -- but still, after that tasting I'm certain I could have.

The red brick of the half timbered townhouses
surrounding Place Central are magnificent.
Its central square is the largest of Southwestern France's bastide towns.
What a pleasure it would be to wander here on market day.

Notice the unique stone fountain in the center.
There are detailed symbols all around
as well as a French fleur-de-lis and the Occitan cross.

As our visit was in October, the city was promoting breast cancer
awareness month with an engaging display of pink umbrellas.
There are several local boutiques on the square if you're searching
for something pretty or uniquely fun to take home.

Lisle-sur-Tarn doesn't have deep pockets or a fabled list of culture and attractions. But it delivers the gift of witnessing small-town life in
a French village, for us the holy grail of an authentic experience.

City Hall stands tall in the center of the village square.

Peek-a-boo! Is that a musketeer I spy?

Raymond LaFage was a famous local artist with a museum in Lisle-sur-Tarn.

It seems every village in France has a pretty church and this one did not disappoint.

Can you see the small Occitanie Cross on this fountain?

When it's lunchtime in France, believe me when I say
there's no choice but to go along with the crowd.
Everything stops cold -- and that is a good thing.
Here, chasing happiness is no reason for guilt,
particularly when it comes to pleasures of the table.
No matter we were well sated from our chocolate tasting; this is
France, where there is zero chance of saying no to lunch.

There were several choices but we decided on Le Romuald, a cozy looking
family operation with reviews that promised excellent service and food.
The chef grilled my beef brochette over the open hearth right in front of us.
It was sublime.
Even our dessert met a fiery finish over the hearth.
Our server heated a branding iron to scalding in the blazing fire
and tattooed our crème brulée to a smoky and sweet finish.
More proof that even in a little village in the middle of the "sticks",
it's safe to expect a memorable lunch.
After all, this is France.

"Desserts are like mistresses. They are bad for you.
So if you are having one, you might as well have two."
Alain Ducasse, french chef extraordinaire

Crème brulée finished in the fire and branded with deliciousness!

"Look at the sparrows; they do not know what they will do in the next moment.
Let us literally live from moment to moment."
Mahatma Gandhi

We enjoyed our leisurely lunch in Lisle-sur-Tarn so much, we missed the train to
our next nearby destination, Gaillac, a small town specializing in wine of the region*.
*Who wouldn't want to pair a wine & chocolate tasting in a single day?

At first upset, I soon concluded this was meant to be.
It invites a new trip to the region, one that we'll look forward to eagerly.
After all, we had just spent a few perfect hours living moment to moment, unplugging from "real" life, rejuvenating our souls and and savoring
each step in our journey to experience the real France.
Happy travels and bon appetit!

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It's Paris - Expect the Unexpected

7/11/2020

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Like an unexpected gift under the Christmas tree,
Paris dishes out one surprise after another.
If you're a diehard explorer -- on the prowl for something
a bit off the grid -- you've come to the right city.
In a world that sometimes feels too predictable,
Paris is an eye-opening kick in the pants.

It's all about searching for experiences that offer complexity & contrast
from what you've previously encountered.
While true, Paris doesn't need a reboot -- it's resoundingly SPECTACULAR -- it
remains an awful lot of fun to plan a day with striking dissimilarities.
Satisfy the madcap Marco-Polo-fortune-hunter in you and look for
a couple of adventures that exist on two completely different planets.

Just in case you think museums are a ho-hum activity, try this on for size.

Let's start with the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP for short).
I arrived expecting a mash-up of Doisneau and Brassaï-like photographs of Paris.* Instead, I got this (!!!) -- a zhoozhed up gallery of Moroccan pop art -- witty,
playful, passionate and totally unexpected.
*obviously, I hadn't done my homework; MEP changes its exhibitions much like
the earth changes its seasons, proving once again variety is the spice of life.

"The greatest value of a picture is when it forces us
to notice what we never expected to see."
John Tukey, American mathematician

MEP's showcase exhibition featured Hassan Hajjaj, a contemporary
artist is lovingly called "the Andy Warhol of Marrakech".
His work has been featured all around the world.
This was my first taste of something really special.

What a spectacle!
Eye-popping colors and street style swagger greet you at the door.
The unexpected pleasure of looking at this fresh take
on Islamic fashion was an exquisite revelation.
And isn't that what makes Paris so special...always a surprise every minute.

Hassan Hajjaj is a designer/filmmaker/photographer/style-maker.
And if that isn't enough, he makes you jump out of your "safe" spot.
Challenging stereotypes, instead of traditional Islamic abayas and tunics,
Hajjaj's passion for fashion jazzes up traditional modest Islamic attire
with playful styles that shake up preconceived expectations.

The accessories alone were worth the trip.
Grace Kelly's scarf and Her Royal Majesty's hats don't seem quite as profound
when you get a look at some of Hajjaj's socks, sunglasses and shoes.
Veiled women as Hell's Angels?
Well, not quite -- but still, a picture worth a thousand words.

Take note of the photographer's head-turning frames, accessorizing his artistic inspiration much like we add a pop of jewelry to boost our style .
A can of peaches will never look quite the same....

Hassan Hajjaj never offers what you expect; and that seems to be the point.
So if you're longing for something different, keep
your eyes open for museums and galleries like this.
Though exhibits change frequently, you're likely to find this type
of fun and adventure in artistically-aware Paris.
Though you can't take it home in your suitcase, the influence remains.

Fear of the unknown.
We've seen and lived enough of that for one lifetime.
Anxiety -- even when it comes to art -- comes from this phobia.
Curiosity and positive expectations tamp down this fear.
Allow yourself to feel uncomfortable -- and look for a new style of art.

"Life begins at the end of your comfort zone."
Neale Donald Walsch, American author

After a slam-dunk look at MEP's wicked-cool photography, why not make
a 380-degree turn to a softer, more conventional period of Paris art history?
No surprises here -- but still a full measure of satisfaction.
La Musée de la Vie Romantique (Museum of Romantic Life) offers
a warm bubble bath of societal norms from the 19th century.
Distinguished -- admittedly a bit solemn -- it's rooted in classic old-world style.

I'll happily confess, there are days I don't want to be original or excitable.
I crave the tried and true.
In moments like these, la Musée de la Vie Romantique is the perfect distraction.
No merry-go-round ride, no hoopla, just a little R&R
dressed up the way Paris knows best.

This museum-mansion embodies 19th century French Romanticism.
No, I'm not talking champagne and flowers romantic here.
The Romantic Period was a literary and artistic
movement that emerged in the late 18th century.
Looking through today's eyes, the movement appears rather sedate,
but from 1800-1850, it was considered new and exotic -- a sea change
of trendsetting new ideas advanced by many of the
most accomplished talents in the city.

During that period, followers were feverishly interested in
cultural and intellectual pursuits -- music, art, and writing.
They gathered in drawing rooms (such as this mansion) to discuss topics
ranging from coin collecting to botany to polite society and artistic ideals.
Everyone who was anyone came to the mansion
to discuss music and poetry, art and literature.
Names like Delacroix, Liszt, Chopin, Rossini and Sand made the rounds
in this little mansion in Paris' 9th Arrondissement.

Her name was Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin
but we all know her by her pen name, George Sand.
She was one of the all time most notable writers in France.
Her writing questioned social norms -- particularly
social conventions that enslaved a woman to her marriage.

George Sand best loved novels promoted the idea
that love conquers all, convention be damned.
She enjoyed several liaisons most notably with a (younger) Frederic Chopin.
The lovers eventually parted but remain forever linked in romantic lore,
two supremely talented people fated to find each other in the
Romantic Movement's most important salon in Paris.

"Life resembles a novel more often than novels resemble life."
George Sand

La Musée de la Vie Romantique has walls that talk.
Artwork, wallpaper and ambience combine for just the right effect.
Furniture, jewelry, drawings and watercolors evoke the fashion of the day
in the neighborhood known as Nouvelle Athènes (New Athens).

The property was built in 1830 by an artist who became
one of the great leaders of the Romantic movement.
Ary Scheffer, a Dutch-French artist, painted many of the
pieces you'll find hanging on the walls of the museum.
Famous literary and religious icons were featured,
including a good assortment of influential people of the day.
Lord Byron and Danté were among his favorites.

He hosted many Friday evening salons where educated, engaging
creative types -- ranging from George Sand to Charles Dickens -- came
to make polite conversation and elegantly debate their prevailing point of view.

You can exert your own POV in the little garden-café,
a welcoming respite from the busy city.
It's a good spot to reflect on 19th century society
where conversation and inspiration were complex and riveting.
The Museum of Romantic Life brings an unabashed note of sentimental
to a world where most human interactions fall in-between hair salons,
wine-tastings, long commutes and Zoom calls -- all places we converse with
our peers but without the exceptional je ne sais quoi and artistic magnificence.

"Life is not about searching for the things that could be found.
It's about letting the unexpected happen.
And finding things you never searched for."
Abhishek Tiwari, writer

Paris offers every nuance of unique perspective.
From a witty & insightful array of unforgettable images --
Maison Européenne de la Photographie -- to the old-school atmospheric
showcase of 19th century artists -- Musée de la Vie Romantic -- a day
in Paris is something you won't soon forget.

Get your Paris on -- where you've come to expect the unexpected.

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Toulouse Sunny Side Up

6/13/2020

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Young at heart. Untroubled. Carefree.
Sterling qualities that have risen to the top of my bucket list.

As recent heartaches around the world beg us to
focus on what's really important, many of us consciously
feel a real need for self-improvement.
Who I am vs who I want to be is the challenge.
For me, the question is easily answered; now more than ever
it's time to live -- less worry, more happy.
As for the solution, it's not quite so simple; Be This / Not That:
Ditch the routine / be more flexible;
Tamp down anxiety / look for the roses in the middle of the briar patch.

In an effort to better my disposition,
I visualize how to break my own rigid rules.
Even with the world spinning too fast, it's high time to lighten up.
As it happens, my personal development goals go hand in hand
with many of the same qualities that sum up a city
I recently had the good luck to visit.

Located in France's beautiful southwest, Toulouse is my new Happy Place.

Toulouse, 4th largest city in France, is filled
with a youthful, laid-back joy -- and it's contagious!
It cajoled me into a lighthearted, more peaceful state of mind.
Give it a chance and Toulouse will shoo away your doom & gloom demons
in an atmosphere born and bred to be fun-loving and full of life.

The Pink City* stands out in a crowd of great cities located in the south of France.
Toulouse's Old Town is an exuberant blend of
architectural beauty and endless charm.
It's a big city filled with big city stuff -- monuments, cathedrals, designer
boutiques, restaurants, theaters and museums -- but at the same time,
feels lived in and informal, more Charleston or New Orleans than Paris
due in no small part to its distinctive southern spirit.
*The Pink City refer to the changing colors of the city's blushing rose brick as day turns into evening

One of the first things you'll notice about Toulouse are the shifting colors of
its buildings, seeming to vacillate with the ever-changing light of the day.
The warm rosy brick sometimes seems as if it has been painted with
a blend of rosé wine and pink carnations.
This evolving color wheel morphs from day into evening into various shades
of pink-to-violet hues, an illusion both surprising and unforgettable.

Like so many French cities, Toulouse is fantastically walkable,
its wealth of pedestrian-only streets lined with towering plane trees and
unpresuming buildings with ornamental cast-iron balconies.
Everywhere you turn, you're apt to run into some kind of entertainment.
With its vast student population and large profusion of tech* professionals,
it has the air of a city dedicated to cutting-edge pursuits.
*Airbus is among many high tech companies and elite schools headquartered in Toulouse

Water is everywhere.
The Garonne River and World Heritage Site Canal du Midi spill
through the town; the Mediterranean beaches are less than an hour away
and the Atlantic Coast not that much further.
Wine bars, beer halls and cozy bistros convey a relaxed ambiance.
Tapas are popular -- Barcelona is only 157 miles away -- though local
culinary specialties will put you in the mood for a
mouthwatering taste of Toulouse at all hours of the day and night.

Meeting Toulouse is like gaining a warmhearted companion.
Sweet-tempered and playful, this is a great place to get happy.

"I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today.
I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet.
I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
Groucho Marx

Carlos Gardel, the King of Tango, was born in Toulouse.

Toulouse just may be the playground of your childhood dreams,
brimming with energy, enthusiasm and good humor.
Its intimate center oozes a cool-as-a-cucumber attitude.
Throw in some unique architecture, playful green space and a reputation
as a culinary powerhouse and you'll soon realize you've mined a diamond.

Who but Toulouse could boast a pastry charmingly named chocolatine*?
*the rest of France (and the world) know this culinary specialty as pain-au-chocolat.

Big city snobbery? No way.
If a positive, dynamic demeanor is what you've been
searching for, then you've found the right spot.

Toulouse offers fantastic walks, especially next to its waterways.

In every city and village across France, you'll always find
something that stands above all else.
There's a moment that sticks in your mind long after you've returned home.
In Toulouse, that distinction belongs to city hall.

A real standout, Le Capitole is both Hotel de Ville (city hall) and a theatre.
It holds court in a charming 19th century square called Place du Capitole.
Ringed by elegant brasseries, cafés and boutiques, this is
the place to be on any given day of the week.

There's always something happening here.
Shoppers dominate daytime hours while
socially connected young adults play at night.
Theatrical night-time lighting makes this one of the most
standout romantic squares in all of France.
Keep a lookout for the dramatic Occitan* Cross in the center of the square,
marked by the twelve branches of the zodiac.
*sometimes called the Languedoc Cross

The inner courtyard of Le Capitole is worth a careful look.
In 1632, the Duke of Montmorency was executed
for traitorous conspiracy against the king.
A plaque marks the spot, reminding us of the history.
Some say this remains a center for intrigue and drama -- but only because
it's where scores of young pretty couples come to get married....

Toulouse was the center of medieval court life.
Think troubadours, courtly love, and an elite class.
Then came the Cathars, the Knights Templar, the Crusades, the Inquisition
and all the breathtaking narratives that keep history nuts glued to our seats.
When the irrepressible Counts of Toulouse were finally sucked into the emerging powerhouse called France, the region sank back into a more modest existence.

The moment you enter Le Capitole, you'll be smitten.
It's a treasure of artistic perfection, beginning with a walk up the grand staircase. The Salle des Illustres -- Hall of the Illustrious -- traces
the suspenseful history of this beautiful city.
Ornate and dramatic, the hall's paintings and sculpture pay tribute to those who have made history in a city brimming with exceptional accomplishments.

The ceilings and the frescoes are such a far cry
from the modern city just outside the doors.
From the 19th century to today, it's an emotional -- but welcome -- tour.
Don't miss the Salle Henri Martin.
Martin was a post-impressionist whose intimate work represents
everyday life in the region at the beginning of the 20th century.
You'll be well rewarded for taking the time to poke around
this fine snapshot of Toulouse.

Artist Henri Martin's dreamy vision of life at the turn of the century.

Of course, this being France, you're going to find good food at every turn.
Marché Victor Hugo, a historic covered market dating from 1896,
makes a good first-stop the moment your stomach calls.
Every kind of edible calls your name in a place designed for gourmets/gourmands/gluttons/moi.

This isn't just any old market; it's a happening.
Life happens within these walls as everyone meets, greets,
eats and drinks, more block party than grocery.
Upstairs, there are several restaurants to choose from -- easy
on the pocketbook and really good value.

My journal entry notes:
"Everyone was eating, drinking, talking -- a beautiful experience."
A bag full of goodies later (braised endives, cheese, salami and fresh currents) brought the Marché Victor Hugo party home to our Airbnb
for just the kind of food experience you dream about in France.

This little piggy should have stayed home.

Temptations abound in this marché; look for the local wine from Gaillac, a nearby village well-known for their grapes.

The party's just getting started at this Marché Victor Hugo bar.

Always look up -- a stunning tribute to the courageous of WWI - Monument aux Morts is under the arch with the eternal flame.

Octopus carpaccio - a delicious appetizer from Grand Café Le Florida on Place du Capitole.

As you stroll the shopping district, look for anything
locally made with violets, the regional specialty.
Candied violets, violet liqueur, violet honey....delicious!

You may recognize a candy that's been around since the 19th century.
Cachou Lajaunie, made in Toulouse, are teenie-weenie black candies that come in a tiny yellow tin (small enough to fit into a 19th century man's watchpocket of course). These strange little breath mints were developed by a pharmacist
though they're nothing like you'd expect if your typical mint is a Lifesaver.
Licorice is the dominant flavor with sort of a menthol afterthought.
They're weirdly delicious.

Tip: Don't tell your spouse you can buy them on Amazon.
Book your return ticket to Toulouse....

Chocolatine is southern-french for pain-au-chocolat, y'all.

Cassoulet, the regional dish of Occitanie, is a warm, filling and delicious taste of France.

Duck confit with potatoes cooked in duckfat is another Toulousain favorite.

This amusing resin statue actually stands for something serious. Child in a dunce cap represents those stigmatized from society.

You'll come across open air markets too -- organic produce
that looks like it was harvested a minute ago.
We happened on a flea market too, its treasures straight from grandma's attic.

I haven't touched on the spiritual treasures of Toulouse,
an essential piece of the city's legacy -- the Roman basilica of Saint-Sernin
or the Saint-Etienne Cathederal or the Jacobins Convent.....
Or the non-spiritual such as the Cité de l'Espace (aerospace museum) or
the new Hall of La Machine* to meet Toulouse's newest citizens,
a gargantuan minotaur and spider....
*similar to Nantes' fabulous Les Machines de L'ile

We'll have to save all that for another day.
But that's the thing about Toulouse.
There isn't enough time to do everything in the
usual rush-rush visit of a few days.
Stay tuned....

I made new friends at the flea market.

Hôtel de Bagis, a Renaissance Palace designed by Toulouse architect Nicolas Bachelier, dates from 1537.

I used to fill my bucket list with things I could buy -- you know,
must-sees like the Taj Mahal, the Northern Lights and every last street in Paris...
But over the years my list has changed.

Living through and hoping to survive this thunderstorm -- a pandemic, the
injustices and bad behavior that have whipped up our world -- makes me realize the happiness that can be bought with a credit card might not be as shiny as it once was. In truth, it all boils down to living a good life, having a good laugh,
helping others and loving all those who surround us.

I hope you make it to Toulouse one day.
And I hope you get the trip or the Ferrari or the whatever is on your
bucket list -- but most importantly, I hope you hold on to your enthusiasm for living. That's what's really important.
Focus and you may once again feel young-at-heart.

I adore this bit of poetry by Samuel Ullman.
Hope it makes your day a little better.

"Youth"
"Youth is not a time of life; it is a state of mind; it is not a matter of rosy cheeks,
red lips and supple knees; it is a matter of the will, a quality of the imagination,
a vigor of the emotions; it is the freshness of the deep springs of life.
Youth means a temperamental predominance of courage over timidity
of the appetite, for adventure over the love of ease.

This often exists in a man of sixty more than a boy of twenty.
Nobody grows old merely by a number of years.
We grow old by deserting our ideals.
Years may wrinkle the skin, but to give up enthusiasm wrinkles the soul.
Worry, fear, self-distrust bows the heart and turns the spirit back to dust.

Whether sixty or sixteen, there is in every human being’s heart the lure of wonder,
the unfailing child-like appetite of what’s next, and the joy of the game of living.
In the center of your heart and my heart there is a wireless station; so long
as it receives messages of beauty, hope, cheer, courage and power
from men and from the Infinite, so long are you young.

When the aerials are down, and your spirit is covered with snows of cynicism
and the ice of pessimism, then you are grown old, even at twenty,
but as long as your aerials are up, to catch the waves of optimism,
there is hope you may die young at eighty."

Cultivate optimism. Let's all try harder -- starting with me.

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<<Previous

A Treasure Trove of Inspiration

When You See a Chance, Take It

Back to the Future in Paris

Color Your World Bright in Trentemoult

Lost in Space

Take a Vacation from Your Vacation

Salvadore Dali's Walk on the Wild Side

Lisle-sur-Tarn: Magic in the Bastide

It's Paris - Expect the Unexpected

Toulouse Sunny Side Up

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
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AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!