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Toulouse-Lautrec Saves the Day

3/25/2020

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There are days when you wake up with a feeling you need to be rescued.
In challenging times like these, many of us appreciate just about anything 
that has a concrete bearing on the health and happiness factor.

And so it happened to me, that early morning gut punch that came out of nowhere.
You may think, oh no, were you in the midst of a family or health crisis? 

No, the simple truth is I woke up in my favorite city with my annual
my-time-in-paris-is-about-to-run-out disorder.
There is no known cure but there are a few ways to tamp down the fever.

Lucky for me -- and countless others --  the Grand Palais hosted
a huge spectacle of Toulouse-Lautrec's works.
  Long before I arrived in Paris, I secured my ticket, knowingly
choosing 
a date toward the end of my trip. 
You see, based on my own travel history, I realized I'd be hard hit
with my own personal Reign of Terror -- missing Paris even
 before I've left the country -- 
and would require some good cheer.

What good planning!
Like a day at the spa, the art of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec gladdens even 
the most clinically depressed Eeyore that resides part-time in all of us.

Let's face it. 
Great art protects your heart and strengthens your immune system. 
It battles stress and a negative mindset.  

"Blessed are they who see beautiful things in humble places
where other people see nothing."
Camille Pissarro, Danish-French Neo-Impressionist 
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The artist most identified with Parisian nightlife was born
to the good life in 1864 in Albi,* a remarkable small city in southern France.
 *Albi -- all-powerful-albi.html 

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec hailed from a wealthy, well-established French family,
one that did not encourage his choice to become an artist.  
T-L's life was difficult early on when an accident** caused his torso to grow
into adult size but left his legs profoundly shortened.
  He despised his grotesque appearance, likely leading him to
Paris a
nd the Bohemian hills of Montmartre where a
non-conformist lifestyle
 offered him a chance to fit in.
**his broken legs never mended; he also had a congenital condition, doubtlessly because his parents were 1st cousins

Before long, the peculiar looking painter was accepted into Montmartre's
avant-garde 
society, where he found his oeuvre, painting and
promoting the over-the-top culture of the butte's cafés and cabarets.

Wicked fun ruled the day.

"I have tried to do what is true and not ideal."
Toulouse-Lautrec
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Toulouse-Lautrec expressly loved to paint performers & prostitutes -- and
they in return seemed to love him back. 
 Reveling in the dissipated and freakish nature of many of these nighttime entertainers, the misfit artist swam in the same current -- drinking too much, engaging in too many dark entertainments*; still, his creative spirit prevailed,
producing volumes of canvasses and more.
*he suffered and likely died of syphilis at a young age

The legendary french artist created magnificent works with
 a tender dexterity that portrayed even the most down-in-the-mouth
prostitutes 
in a sensitive light -- not an easy task.  

It's doubtful they used terms we use today such as branding and leveraging.
But T-L created instant name recognition for his favorite celebrities in
a manner that would have Madison Avenue nipping at his heels.
His use of vibrant colors and expressive lines
matched the ebullient nightlife of Montmartre.

  Though he had the ability to paint in the traditional old-school manner,
his most memorable pieces define the joie de vivre
that defined Paris before the first world war. 

His style -- remember, we're talking 1890's Paris -- was resolutely modern,
the same description the Grand Palais applied to his
recent show "Toulouse-Lautrec: Resolutely Modern." 

Though he could boast great range (as the Grand Palais show
manifestly illuminated), I was struck by how such a run-down wreck of a man practically invented the Montmartre myth single-handedly. 


Maybe it's because we're attracted to the heartbreak of Toulouse-Lautrec, the man. 
But mostly it's the talent, the audacity of his daredevil lines
and confidence of his color palette.
Perhaps today Toulouse-Lautrec would be a street artist.
  And he'd be the cool guy we'd be dying to meet.
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"I don't belong to any school.  I work in my corner.  I admire Degas."
Henri Toulouse-Lautrec 

T-L was true to his word.  He worked that little corner he created. 
 A true individualist, the man had range,
spreading his talent over a wealth of mediums.
Producing over 1,000 canvases, 350 posters and thousands of drawings,
the artiste extraordinaire could not be accused of resting on past success.
Even as he began to drink more and more -- one admirer quipped
"He does not give his moustache time to dry" -- Toulouse-Lautrec
single-handedly expanded his graphic design into a movement. 

His posters -- many created by first drawing on stone*, were cheap. 
They were meant to be slapped up all around Paris in order to advertise
 cabarets and cafés -- the Moulin Rouge & Folies Bergère in particular -- but
their 
reach far exceeded their expected ambition as people
fell in love with the bold artistic expression.

Thousands were pasted up and many soon disappeared -- peeled
off so they could be savored and tucked away at home.
*lithography, a method of printing 

T-L also labored to promote local headliners.
 Jane Avril, May Belfort and Aristide Bruant  soon became household names. 
La Goulue was already celebrated for her famous dance at the Moulin Rouge,
but as soon as Toulouse-Lautrec promoted her leggy can-can via 
steamy posters plastered all over Paris, they both toppled the charts. 

The man with the sad biography -- the disabled artist who loved to paint the
seedy side 
of Montmartre's absinthe playground -- became an icon
of advertising and public relations by doing what he loved best.
  His visually stunning art became the greatest ad campaign of the day.

"Nobody reads ads. People read what interests them, and sometimes it's an ad."
Howard Luck Gossage, San Francisco ad guru during the "Mad Men" days
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Graphic design by Toulouse-Lautrec: It's all in the smallest details....
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Simple lines with emphasis on caricature of his subject make this portrait unforgettable.
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Incredibly, Toulouse-Lautrec also co-authored a cookbook. 
"The Art of Cuisine" is a joy to behold, offering
both illustrations and recipes with T-L's signature joie-de-vivre.
  He loved to cook and often hosted dinners for friends that ended with
endless conversations about food -- a Frenchman's favorite pastime. 

And in the just-for-fun department, here's a cocktail* recipe allegedly
served by T-L at one of his alcohol-soaked parties in the 1890's. 
Published by Saveur Magazine in 2014, combine 2 1/2 oz. cognac
with 1/4 oz. absinthe in a cocktail shaker filled with ice.
Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a twist of lemon.
  Prepare for the earth to shake!
*Named Tremblement de Terre -- The Earthquake  
I've seen other recipes with 3 parts cognac and 3 parts absinthe but only make it this way if you wish to go blind....

"The French and their food. They put each meal on a pedestal."
Giada De Laurentiis, Italian-American chef, food writer, TV host
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Horses were often a favorite subject of T-L.
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Toulouse-Lautrec's acclaimed cookbook is full of recipes, sketches & T-L personality!
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Who doesn't love a circus? Horses had been a favorite since childhood.
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The simple life of the working class was not a fashionable genre in Belle Epoque France but Toulouse-Lautrec made you want to take a second look.

  Sensitive by nature, he showed empathy for all classes -- from sex workers
to celebrities of the day -- without distinguishing the culture clash between them.
  Perhaps it was because he had a view of both sides of life. 
He had grown up in a mansion with wealth and
a prominent family name but chose a different path.
  He seemed to find something he needed in the seedy corners of Paris
with a drink and a paintbrush in hand.

In the end, his art did not save him -- but it certainly has bolstered
those of us who admire the artist's genius. 
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This was an ad for an American magazine called "The Chap Book"
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Thank you, Grand Palais, for bringing us the great Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.
Your exhilarating undertaking helped get a travelin' girl out of her end-of-trip blues.

  We pine for inspiration and beauty, two of the many reasons we travel.
Over the years, many of us have learned there's no end
to finding what we crave when we're in Paris and no need to let it go.

So the next time you wake up with a feeling you need to be saved,
don't just sit there and "take" it.
Think about what you love and go after it.
Perhaps like me, that one saving grace just might be great art. 
​ It will transport you to a better place and wake up
the happy side of your brain.

"The nicest thing about the rain is that it always stops.  Eventually."
AA Milne, author of "Winnie-the-Pooh"
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Spiritual Paris, Melting Pot of Faith & Design

3/1/2020

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You've heard it said before, "You've see one, you've seen 'em all,"
referring to places of worship in Europe.
  Well, take it from me, that's baloney.

In Paris alone, there are hundreds of cathedrals, synagogues, temples,
mosques and pagodas -- many distinctly diverse and out-of-the-ordinary.
Catholic, Protestant, Jewish, Buddhist, Muslim, Orthodox,
and more, there's something for everyone.
Whether you're hoping to quench your spiritual leanings or to satisfy a yen
for luscious architecture, Paris offers a melting pot of faith and design.

During my last visit to Paris, I couldn't bear to face Notre Dame's new reality,
the gut-wrenching damages from the 2019 fire.
Looking for something a bit off the beaten path, I ventured deep into the
5th arrondissement and discovered a new and enchanting holy place.

​A search for the exotic is the reason many of us travel. 
My first stop, the Grande Mosquée de Paris, rewarded that quest. 
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Walk into the mosque -- not far from the Jardin des Plantes -- and SHAZAAM! 
You're transported to another time and place.
The Grand Mosque of Paris is as exotic as it gets, mysteriously novel to
 newcomers not educated in the theory and practice of the Muslim faith.
  Visitors are welcome to walk around as they wish with one exception; the
prayer room is reserved exclusively for those observing the Muslim faith.

With its fountains, flowering trees and emerald green shrubbery,
the patio is positively poetic, a sure bet to wake up
your curiosity the moment you arrive.

  Surrounded by ornate tiles and the soft sounds of a tranquil fountain,
you may feel as if you've woken up in Marrakech instead of Paris.
  The sunken garden is the perfect spot to revive yourself, a perfect
sanctuary that pays tribute to nature at its peaceful best.
 
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The Great Mosque of Paris was built as a tribute to the French Arab community
which valiantly enlisted and fought for France during WWI.

The moment I laid eyes on its square minaret, I was reminded that
many of France's greatest treasures exceed a momentary satisfaction. 
These sites exist for the greater good; as temporary guests
we are fortunate to be able to take in their soul-stirring example.
 
Substantial evidence has been uncovered of a true-to-life war story
that took place in the colorful halls of the Great Mosque.
During WWII, the mosque's rector saved between 200 and 500
Jews and resistance fighters. 
By issuing fake certificates of Muslim identity, they
offered safe passage, preserving the lives of innocent people.
  The mosque's rector, Si Kaddour Ben Gabrit, was eventually awarded
the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honor and recognized by Yad Vashem*
as one of the Righteous Among the Nations.

*Israel's memorial to the victims of the Holocaust 

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In February of 2019, the Vatican's Pope Francis and The Grand Imam
of Al-Azhar co-authored and signed a document focused
on the goals of world peace and human fraternity.
  If you don't know about this, I urge you to google "Abu Dhabi Document"
for the opportunity to read about the holy alliance these spiritual leaders
initiated to come together in a new spirit of peace and love.

Perhaps a first step in your own education is to visit a holy site of "another" that
you may not fully understand but may come to gain insight into and appreciate. 

"Faith leads a believer to see in the other
a brother or sister to be supported and loved."
Pope Francis and Grand Imam Ahmad Al-Tayyab
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A poster teaching Muslim children how to pray.
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The holy prayer room
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At its best, the Grand Mosque of Paris helps the uninitiated
awaken to a "different" viewpoint of the city.
  Like many of the great cathedrals of Paris, it offers a learning experience
and perhaps, even more important, a closer connection
to everyday life in the community.

  Many of us travel so we can immerse ourselves into
a cultural diversity we don't enjoy at home. 
Why not walk through the door of a new spiritual frontier, not to change
​ your own course necessarily but to open your eyes to the world at large.

"Religions are different roads converging upon the same point. What does
​  it matter that we take different roads as long as we reach the same goal."
Mahatma Gandhi 
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In a complete about-face, our next stop was the Armenian Cathedral of Paris,
often referred to as the Armenian Church of St John the Baptist.
Located near the Champs Elysée on rue Goujon,
it's easy to visit and well worth the stop.

The French Armenian community is the largest in the European Union.
  Many Armenian refugees moved to Paris following the Armenian genocide*. 
Still more are asylum seekers arrived from Turkey, Lebanon, Syria and Iran,
hotspots where people of this faith and ethnicity are no longer
​ easily integrated into society.

​ 
*the mass extermination and expulsion of roughly 1.5 million Armenians
by the Ottoman government from 1914 to 1923
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Many Armenians gave their lives to France during WWI.
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In case you're unfamiliar with the Armenian church,
it's a Christian faith with close ties to the Catholic Church.

The Armenians are an ancient orthodox community whose history claims
it was the first state* to adopt Christianity as its official religion in the 4th century.  For many years, they suffered and fought to maintain their spiritual community. 
​The founding of a beautiful church in Paris was a triumph of faith and determination.

*then called the Kingdom of Armenia
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Did you know that Charles Aznavour - aka the "French Sinatra" - was
baptized and wed in the Armenian Church of Paris?
  On October 6th, 2018, a requiem in his honor was held post-mortem.

  Aznavour (given name Aznavourian) was born of immigrant parents. 
Long recognized not only for his sad love songs and bevy of famous lovers,
he was also honored for his service during WWII after giving
shelter to Jews and Armenians trying to dodge the Nazis.
Named "Entertainer of the Century" by CNN and Time Online,
​he edged out the likes of Elvis Presley and Bob Dylan.
​His music -- much like Paris itself -- is timeless.

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My last stop was to visit an old favorite, the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés,
an iconic church in the heart of the sixth arrondissement.
Just across from tourist favorite Café Les Deux Magots,
this property is currently enjoying a major facelift.
The restoration is not complete but oh my, what a difference it has already made.
 
Originally built around 512 AD, the church (built as a Benedictine monastery)
previously held celebrated relics from the One True Cross.
  Rebuilt around 1000 AD, it was again nearly destroyed
during the French Revolution.
  Initially employed as a prison -- off with their heads -- it was later used to
store saltpeter (the key ingredient in gunpowder), setting off a massive explosion.  The damage  was monstrous and sanctuary was again out of commission.

Due to the historic nature of the property, they tried one more time,
rebuilding in 1862.
Finally restored* in the 19th century, its square bell tower dominates the skyline
of the exclusive neighborhood. Its Romanesque and Gothic architecture reminds
​ us of its bragging rights as the oldest church in Paris.
*Victor Hugo led the campaign to restore the nearly unsalvageable church; it took 30 years to complete.

But now, with this latest facelift, the old grime has been lifted,
brightening up the dark interior immensely.
The luster of the artwork has been restored in more than half the church
thus far, its heavenly colors restored to their original glory. 
Luscious paintings and frescoes decorate the nave.
  Rich marble columns, a gorgeous floor and incredible acoustics
complete the reincarnation.
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You can now "adopt" a star on the ceiling to help fund the restoration -- American Friends for the Preservation of St-Germain-des-Pres will add your name to a star for a donation to the fund.
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Secular principles and freedom of religion are two pillars of the French state.   Catholicism is still predominant but Protestantism, Islam, Buddhism and
Judaism are among the faiths the citizenry of France holds dearly.


The country has come a long way in religious tolerance -- from
"I am the religion of all those who are brave and good"* to
"Religion is what keeps the poor from murdering the rich."** 
*King Henri IV of France; **Napoleon Bonaparte 
​
In 1905, France was officially established as a secular state, pledging
​ to perpetuate the separation of church and state.

​
France and many democracies have long trumpeted a simple truth.
Governments do better without kings and noblemen than with them.
Adding to that principle, as U.S. President James Madison once said,
"Religion flourishes in greater purity, without than with the aid of Government."

Religious tolerance may wobble from time to time throughout
history -- today's treatment of Jews in France is a particularly sad state
of affairs -- yet whenever I have the opportunity to visit a holy site,
I'm reminded of the big picture.
When we work together, it's beautiful; when we don't, we face life's ugliest horrors.

Millions of us worldwide look forward to the day we can once again 
visit a rehabbed Notre Dame Cathedral.
But while you wait, don't let anything keep you from enjoying
a spiritual walk in Paris.
There is much to discover in this city that God has blessed.

"Tolerance implies no lack of commitment to one's own beliefs.
Rather it condemns the oppression or persecution of others."
​President John F. Kennedy 
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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    Promenade Des Anglais
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    #Provence
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    Slice Of Life
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    Texas
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    Willi Ronis
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    WWII
    #WWII France
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    Yachts
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