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Narbonne - Beyond the Sea

9/15/2016

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I love a good surprise and every so often, I'm caught off-balance by the
 original approach communities take when presenting themselves to the world.
  This is the kind of suspense I live for -- a bolt from the blue
reminder that deep travel offers so much more than the
same-old-same-old snooze-fest of someone else's idea of fun.

  Surprise and  sheer wonder is just the tip of the iceberg in Narbonne, a
  homey small city nestled in the beautiful Corbières wine region of Languedoc.
Built by Rome in 118 BC, Narbonne's bits and pieces of antiquity make for
a fascinating day or two of discovery that you won't soon forget.
  Just enough marvels and cheerful character to keep you smiling.

  Narbonne's charm is greater than its beauty. 
I think this small city of about 50,000 is unfairly overlooked by
travelers because it doesn't have that postcard perfect
 look that many villages in the south of France command.
But don't worry, it more than makes up for that with a body
 of fascinating landmarks to match its warm and inviting community spirit.

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Best known as Julius Caesar's hand-picked refuge for his chosen few,
 Narbonne was built as a trading post along Rome's prized Via Domitia.  Astonishingly, still today you can stand on the very same road
Caesar's top brass paraded across in the town's central core.

Back in the day, Narbonne was wealthy and powerful,
a coastal city that prospered in large part due to its seaport. 
Even after the Romans left, this favored locale
was long admired for its wealth and prestige.
But over time, changing climate conditions and perhaps some bad karma
caused its harbor to silt up, resulting in disastrous afteraffects
for the once thriving Mediterranean merchant port. 
Their bad luck -- add in the plague as well -- is our good fortune since this once
mighty Roman colony is now the perfect setting to explore the
intriguing legacy of Narbonne's stretch as France's golden city in the sun.

For my money, The Horreum (terrible word, wonderful place)
is the best Roman remnant in Narbonne.
Though many guidebooks glide over it, it's a place of great fun. 
You're guided through an underground grain store -- a virtual little chamber of horrors if you're claustrophobic -- past wonderful carvings of bulls, horses,
chariots, and more -- steered by a knowledgeable guide.
  Our expert pointed out (in french) why the ancient pottery had different shapes--
thin, breathable earthenware for wine and flat bottomed vessels for olive oil.

  It was my first ever tour by flashlight.
  And though I wouldn't want to go looking down just any old dark
alleyway in Narbonne, it was a real pleasure and a lovely surprise
 to make our illuminated pilgrimage deep in the bowels of The Horreum.

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Like so many towns in France, the local market is a big hit with travelers.
  And this one didn't disappoint -- as a matter of fact, Les Halles is exceptional.

  Animated, colorful, traditional, this pavilion has been rocking Narbonne since 1901.  The wrought iron and sculpted stone facade is gorgeous,
a preview perhaps of the glories inside. 
 Here you'll discover another world of tempting delicacies -- fish and seafood of
every type, a city filled with meat & charcuterie -- beautiful & mysterious to the uninitiated -- and an assortment of fruits & vegetables that scream FRESH -- all
beautifully laid out to tickle your imagination as well as your appetite.

  You'll marvel at the big picture but stay to admire the minutiae of the assortment,
realizing how near you are to Carcassonne (cassoulet!) and french Catalan (tapas!).  And don't leave without sampling some of the local Corbières wine.
The customers and stall owners are cheerful and who can blame them.
Surrounded by dazzling flowers and exotic spices, this is a virtual 
Disney World for locally sourced products.

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The Canal de Robine is arguably Narbonne's prettiest place for a stroll.
If you've never heard of this lovely canal, you're not alone.
  Just 23 miles in length, the petite canal is overshadowed by its more famous sister,
 the Canal du Midi, together an acclaimed UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  It's a beautiful place, reason enough to make a stop here.
  The market is canal side and the rest of the city's riches easily reached by foot.

With 2500 years of culture, the city's small core offers a day of easy entertainment.
Narbonne's Archeology Museum contain reminders of its impressive past.
Mosaics, statues, sarcophagi (decorated stone coffins) and
 a wooden anchor recall the town's historically seaworthy yesteryear. 
Frescoes from a Gallo-Roman village are shown to great advantage
in their new 12th century home, the Palais Vieux.

The Art & History Museum is located in the 17th century
archbishop's apartments inside the Palais Neuf.
  Best known for its important collection of orientalist painting
and faience, it's worth a look.
I had to ask Professor Google exactly what orientalist painting was
because it's not (as you would think) works by Asian artists.
Orientalist is a style of painting from the 19th century, done by
western artists moved by exotic and sensual oriental influences
and popularized when Napoleon invaded Egypt.

Housed in a former church, the Musée Lapidaire is a perfect
quick stop to get stoned -- just kidding...
We're talking  grave stones here, as well as some
 fine remains from a 13th century Benedictine monastery. 
The 1300 massive blocks of stone are curiously decorated -- much
more interesting than they sound -- making up
one of the largest collections in all of Europe.

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Many people make the Narbonne circuit for one reason alone.
  The Cathedrale St-Just-et-St-Pasteur is an enormous must-see Gothic construction.  Although its gloriously tall interior contains some beautiful 14th-century stained glass, Aubusson tapestries and fantastic tombs, it's best known for being
two-thirds unfinished, a strange sight and utter surprise.

  Building began in 1272 when Narbonne was still powerful and wealthy but all manner of hell broke loose as the city's fortunes eventually dwindled.
  Add to that the unhappy fact that a section of the city wall required rebuilding
in order to complete the church's original plans and voila -- you have
one of the most interesting "mistakes" in all of France.
  The cathedral is so tall, you'll hurt your neck gazing at the
ceilings and church towers, all quite remarkable.
Besides, who doesn't love a Halloween-ready skeleton grinning from a real life tomb?

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Narbonne is the birthplace of legendary French singer/songwriter Charles Trenet.  With a charming voice and style, his songs rang true to the era,
a magic mixture of romance and mid-century nostalgia.
  If you've never heard his most famous tune, "La Mer", please give it
a listen -- newly popular again as "Beyond the sea" in American movie
  "Finding Nemo" -- though I'll admit to a special soft spot
for another Trenet favorite "Boum".
  Make yourself happy and give him a listen on YouTube.

At the time of our visit, I didn't realize you can visit his childhood home
so now I have a good excuse to return to this lovely city not quite on "La Mer".

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Don't miss The Horreum -- a great taste of Rome in France.
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Try to save a little time for a special stop about nine miles from Narbonne.
  The Abbey de Fontfroide is ready-made for a bit of virtuous reflection.
Contrast that with equal parts of unholy covetousness you'll succumb
to for the quiet but stunning countryside.

  You're required to take the guided tour but it's all worthwhile
even if you don't normally enjoy that sort of thing.
  The 13th century cloister is achingly beautiful and
the austere 12th century church impresses as well.
  World War I brought stained glass from ruined churches all around France
  now lovingly pieced together in gorgeous abstract designs.

The abbey was founded by the Benedictines, then given over to the
Cistercians who later promoted the whole Albigensian Crusade
nightmare that tore apart much of the region.
  Here today, there's love, not war and you'll be glad you stopped to admire
the beautiful roses and cypress trees as you contemplate the monks'
spartan quarters and nature's perfect, Tuscan-like surroundings.

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It's always a challenge to plan a trip to France,
where there are too many good stops to count. 
It pays to veer off the beaten path and take a chance
on a town often overlooked by the guidebooks.
  Narbonne is one of those places and we're glad we made the effort. 
I hope you do too! 

"I came, I saw, I conquered."
Julius Casesar

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1 Comment

Paris, You've Got a Friend

9/2/2016

0 Comments

 
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I'm often accused of having an obsession with Paris. 
This isn't a disorder.   It's a character trait.

My infatuation is born out of a passion for travel and all things french.
Inspired by intravenous infusions of art, architecture, food and wine,
Paris on the brain isn't just some old passing fancy.
I don't feed the fever 24/7 but then again,
it never strays too far from my wandering mind.
Paris devotion is an enthusiastic distraction -- highlighted and
underscored on my perpetual life calendar -- an
ongoing endeavor to discover the best of my chosen city.
And I know I'm not alone.

But you have to wonder.
Why do so many of us feel the same way?

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So here's my theory.
  Crazy as it may sound, I think we love Paris so much because our prize
 city loves us back ten-fold -- equal to the dearest friend you can find.

  We choose our friends wisely, automatically looking for certain
qualities, important little markers when we meet someone new.


And yes of course, first impressions count.
Just like meeting a new friend, our first impressions of Paris
add up quickly, forming an immediate getting-to-know-you attraction
and growing into a can't-live-without-you connection.
The spell has been cast.

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Ask any mom/boss/teacher/psychologist/lonely-hearts-club-single
why we are first attracted to a specific person more than another
and the answer is simple but revealing.
  Who you are and who you are perceived as being -- that fatal
first impression --- is said to imprint in fewer than four seconds. 
Your brand is immediately established.
When we first meet someone, we generate a mental picture,
 a caricature of sorts, in the blink of an eye.

Physical appearance provokes the first impression but before long, voice,
 speech pattern, mannerisms, energy, laugh and body language
contribute to that split second judgement we spontaneously make.
 
No wonder Paris wins the likeability contest hands down.

  Our critical first impression is stellar, the city's beauty and style
captured the second you open your eyes.
  Pretty smile, expressive eyes, straight teeth, good shoes, hair
and skin are likened to an attractive human being.
Likewise, our favorite city's grand boulevards, historic buildings, inventive
 street art and majestic landmarks boast high marks in the looks department.

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Almost sinfully beautiful, Paris offers so much more than just good looks.
Much like the friend of your dreams, Paris will make YOU a better you.

  This is where the important stuff counts. 
Aren't we always attracted to someone who is thoughtful, smart,
positive, sympathetic, cheerful, good-natured, wise......
It's a long list because when it comes to our
relationships, we have high hopes.

And when it comes to our belle amie Paris, we know she
clearly gives a damn about us, the hallmark of a true comrade.
  You'll discover a resumé filled with history, drama and unceasing interest. 
Wide boulevards, cobbled streets, animated bars, restaurants,
and magical museums make us feel like we've found the gift of the gods.
Constantly evolving, the city always manages
a surprise or two on every visit.

What does this all add up to?
  It's as simple as how you feel about your own good friends. 
The more you get to know them, the more you want to know.
The perfect friendship -- tète a tète in little cafés,
long lingering dinners, before long you're thick as thieves....
and you don't even need to buy a Christmas present.
And just like a best friend, your relationship with Paris soon
becomes a genuine connection that grows into a life-long attachment.

My advice - Upgrade your social life and add a little spice.
  Make friends with beautiful, charming, unforgettable Paris.
She'll always be there for you.

"Life is what happens when your cell phone is charging."
author unknown

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"You've Got a Friend"
Lyrics by Carole King

When you're down and troubled
And you need some love and care
And nothing, nothing is going right
Close your eyes and think of me
And soon I will be there
To brighten up even your darkest night
You just call out my name
And you know wherever I am
I'll come running, to see you again
Winter, spring, summer or fall
All you have to do is call
And I'll be there
You've got a friend
If the sky above you
Grows dark and full of clouds
And that old north wind begins to blow
Keep you head together

And call my name out loud
Soon you'll hear me knocking at you door
You just call out my name
And you know wherever I am
I'll come running to see you again
Winter, spring, summer or fall
All you have to do is call
And I'll be there yes I will
Ain't it good to know that you've got a friend
When people can be so cold
They'll hurt you, desert you
And take your soul if you let them, don't you let them
You just call out my name
And you know wherever I am
I'll come running running running to see you again
Winter, spring, summer or fall
All you have to do is call
And I'll be there
You've got a friend
You've got a friend
Ain't it good to know, ain't it good to know, ain't it good to know
You've got a friend
You've got a friend

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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