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Fat & Happy in Paris

7/31/2014

It's his fault. I can't help it, I'm daffy for duck.
Duck fat, to be specific. And cheese. And salami. All things FAT.
Don't forget the chocolate and the cream. And for heavens sake, never nix the butter.

I still remember my first taste of duck confit. I almost fainted dead away with pleasure.
Then there's duck paté - so rich, so velvety, surely it's made in heaven.
No doubt about it, potatoes fried in duck fat deserve the medal of honor.

What is it about these rich foods that we find so appealing?
Taste? Yes! Texture? Yes! Sinfulness? Yes!

I reserve a special PHOOEY for those who wish to ban foie gras.
They'll never convince me of their moral superiority.
Foie gras, like so many of these beloved fats, are a gift, an extravagance,
a lesson in gratification that we all need.

These foods are not for every day (unless you're vacationing in France!)
but they should be enjoyed without guilt.

Go Ahead, Dig into that Chocolate Delight from le Comptoir du Relais!

Cassoulet. Soufflé. Quiche Lorraine. Choucroute garnie.
Escargot bathed in parsley/garlic butter. Kouign Amann. Raclette.
Just a few famous French treats that should be at the top of your Greatest Hits list.
Try them. Enjoy them.
Note to Self: Don't consult your doctor first.

Wine is also food. It feeds the soul. But really, that's a whole other blog.
And ice cream. Sigh.....

"There is no sincerer love than the love of food." - George Bernard Shaw

SHARE THE GOOD STUFF WITH SOMEONE YOU LOVE

p.s. If you enjoy food, please read my novel "The Paris Effect." You'll gain 10 pounds.

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Lafayette and The Americans

7/28/2014

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You may wonder why a village in Brittany is the setting for a story about Lafayette (as he is known in America). This is the Saint-Goustan quarter of Auray, a beautiful town situated on the Auray River, far from the action of the Revolutionary War. It's unlikely that Major General Lafayette ever visited but he was the brains and the name behind the landing of
a very famous American on these shores.

Saint-Goustan welcomed American founding father Benjamin Franklin as he arrived to ask for support for the New World's fight against the tyranny of the British. It was December of 1776 when Franklin disembarked on the banks of the river town. Lafayette was instrumental in pushing for this support from the crown (King Louis XVI) of France. He used every bit of his own influence to beg for cash, arms and bodies to help America win her fight.

It seems like every other business in this town is named after the famous American. It's particularly perplexing that American visitors are more likely to find their former foe, the British who seem to favor this part of France, than their own American counterparts at this moving historical site. You'll rub your eyes as you see the name Benjamin Franklin on practically every corner of the village. The large and inviting cobbled square is a wonderful place to relax and contemplate the long-lasting friendship of France with the U.S.A.

Known in France as the Marquis de La Fayette (note the separation of La & Fayette), Gilbert du Motier was an aristocrat who hailed from the Auvergne region.
Born to a wealthy and titled French family, he was more interested in the fresh ideals of American independence from the British than he was
in his own birth country's causes. Joining the American Revolution at the age of 19,
he served at his own expense, including buying the very ship that brought him
(and many other Frenchmen) to our shores.

During America's Revolutionary War, he become the right hand of another American hero, General George Washington. He distinguished himself at the Battle of Brandywine where he fought alongside General Washington (and was promoted to Major General) and at the Siege of Yorktown where he battled it out with Cornwallis.

Lafayette was enamored with the whole idea of America's independence and democracy.
"The Hero of Two Worlds" brought these principles back to France to help influence their transition from the reign of kings. He wrote a large portion of France's Declaration of the Rights of Man & of the Citizen with the help of his good friend and ally, Thomas Jefferson.

Sadly, Lafayette found himself in dire straits during the French Revolution where he spent more than 5 years in prison during their Reign of Terror. Napoleon Bonaparte stepped up to release and recognize the imprisoned frenchman so he could continue good works to aid mankind.

Benjamin Franklin at Court in France

Both Presidents held Lafayette in High Regard

Auray is so beautiful, it may hurt your eyes!

Lafayette was an abolitionist, arguing to end the slave trade in both America and France. He urged George Washington to abolish the practice and establish former slaves
as tenant farmers.

General Lafayette paid homage to his commander, the 1st American president,
by naming his son after him - George Washington de La Fayette. Many towns in the U.S. have paid their respects to the French commander by naming towns,
streets and squares after him.
He received an honorary degree from Harvard as well as full American citizenship.

Buried in Paris, Lafayette is interred in a small cemetery in the 12th arrondissement. Picpus Cemetery is better known as the resting place of 16 Carmelite nuns who went singing to their deaths in the murderous summer of 1794. Some 1300 people are buried in a mass grave at Picpus, all of them decapitated during the reign of terror. The soil on and around the general's grave was taken from Bunker Hill. He rests in peace, forever a friend to America and a reminder of the ties that bind France and the U.S.A.

Celebrating American independence, immortalized at Galerie David d'Angers in the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Angers.

The man who wanted France to follow America's example was given full funeral honors by American President Andrew Jackson. Flags were flown at half-mast for 35 days and many
U.S. citizens wore black in his honor for a full month just as they did when they honored both President Washington and President John Adams.

Lafayette, George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson
are forever our honored heroes in the fight for independence.
So, too, should we pay our respects to the history that took place
in the little French village of Auray.
Make sure to stop at the Saint-Goustan quarter on your next trip to France and think of a
brave American and a brave Frenchman who conspired to win support for the cause of
liberty in the New World.

Merci, General Lafayette, for your help in securing our freedom.

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Petit Palais Treasure Chest

7/25/2014

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The Petit Palais is a secret.

Or at least that's what I thought the first time I wandered
its mostly tourist-free gallery.
Then there's the name -- Small Palace.
Hear me now, there is nothing little about it.

A treasure chest full of pleasures, both inside and out, the so-called little palace is one of the best stops you'll ever make in Paris. And it's FREE.*

If you have a tendency to not love museums, this one is for you.
It dazzles without being pretentious.
The outside is as beautiful as the inside.

You can wander the garden, chat up Winston Churchill, study Georges Clemenceau or confess to an angel. Once inside, the vast space welcomes rather than confines.
It's that rare opportunity to find a personal relationship with art.
No pretense, only enjoyment.

Isn't She Beautiful? Delicate "Woman with a Monkey" 1908.

Built for the World's Fair (Universal Exhibition) in 1900,
the Petit Palais has an enviable location. It's close to the Champs-Elysées,
the Pont Alexandre III and just across from the Grand Palais.

The gilded entrance alone is memorable in all its glorious detail. Stepping into the long gallery is unforgettable. Enormous and filled with light instead of tourists, the collections range from early Christian Orthodox to Renaissance,
Romantic, Art Nouveau and Impressionist periods.
Paintings, sculpture, tapestries, ceramics, glassware and even books are on offer. 18th & 19th Century paintings by Delacroix, Sisley,
Renoir, Monet, and more make this an exceptional experience.
The frescoes and ceilings are fantastic, blending the classical with the modern.

The Petit Palais is the definition of the Fine Arts:
Art produced primarily for beauty rather than utility.

Do yourself a big favor and make it your next stop when you're in Paris.

The Grand Gallery is Amazing -- Look Up and Look Down, It's All Stunning

The Great Winston Churchill

Metro: Champs-Elysées Cleménceau or Invalides; Closed on Monday
*Temporary exhibits charge admission but permanent collection is free.

Light Pours in Everywhere Throughout the Museum

Ceramics Define the Space

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Life on Rue Daguerre

7/23/2014

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This is What I Crave When I'm Strolling the Streets of Paris

Life on rue Daguerre is as authentic and purely Parisian as you'll find anywhere in the city.
This is not opulent Paris or even majestic Paris. It's ordinary -- and that's a good thing.
If you're looking for a slice-of-life neighborhood, this community is your place.
Located in the 14th arrondissement, the street is steps away from Denfert Rochereau,
a great stop that offers service on both the Metro and the RER
(with quick access to Roissy-Charles DeGaulle Airport).
It's a destination I always return to, continually finding new surprises that delight.
With each and every visit, it always manages to tug at my heart strings.
Isn't that why we come back to Paris again and again?

I Dream of Cheese

Two destinations of particular interest await you on rue Daguerre.

Maison Péret, sometimes called Le Rallye Péret, is a brasserie located in the middle of this hustle-bustle market street. It's open 7 days a week, convenient to both locals and travelers, worthy of a special trip to this neighborhood. I never miss the heavenly experience of dining
al fresco on their patio where I can enjoy the engaging commotion of the shopping street.
Feasting on a simple but delightful mix of salad greens, the plate showboats three different cheeses that crown grilled Poilâne bread (the blue is my favorite). Paired with a delightful glass of the grape from their wine shop located adjacent to the restaurant, Maison Péret is exactly what you crave in Paris. Bonus: Berthillon ice cream is on offer for dessert.
Family friendly, it's one of those dining experiences that isn't hot or trendy, just good.
Four generations of the Péret family have been working hard at their craft since 1919.
It's a great chance to experience an authentic bite of Paris.
Bravo Family Péret!

Speaking of cheese, historic fromage purveyor Androuet has opened a boutique on rue Daguerre. Think historic, artisnal, delightful. Camembert, Brie de Melun, Ossau Iraty, Cantal, Comté, Roquefort, blue d'Auvergne and many more favorites can be discovered at this
tiny shop. The lines are sometimes long but it's worth the wait. This is not grocery store cheese. It's the real deal and the staff is both knowledgeable and dedicated to getting it right.

Rue Daguerre is named after Louis Daguerre, the so-called "Father of Photography."
He invented the Daguerreotype process of photography, well known in American as the process used by Matthew Brady to shoot those great American portraits of the day that
helped document the time of the Civil War.

This photo, taken in Paris, was captured some time around 1938. It's not that different from the Polaroids taken in my childhood. Isn't it hard to imagine life before still pictures?

Monsieur Daguerre was gifted. He was well known, too, as an artist and theatre designer.
But I like him best because of the little street in Paris that he inspired. A street where you can find charcuterie, steaming paella, fresh figs and cherries, designer chocolate and much more.

It's a neighborhood to remember.
Please, if you haven't already discovered the charms of rue Daguerre, add it to your next adventure in Paris.

Fresher than Fresh Vegetables Decorate Rue Daguerre

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There's No Such Thing as Too Much Paris

7/21/2014

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Can we ever really get enough of Paris?

One day I googled Paris fanatic, completely prepared to see my name in lights. It's true, I'm a bit deranged when it comes to my favorite city -- but then again, I suppose it's not much different from being an over-the-top sports fan or an obsessed shoe fanatic.

Cole Porter understood. When he penned the iconic "I Love Paris", every singer wanted to record it. Frank Sinatra, Ella Fitzgerald, Andy Williams, Maurice Chevalier, Jack Jones and even a recent cut by Lana Del Ray, "I Love Paris" never goes out of style. Kind of like the city.

"Every time I look down on this timeless town
Whether blue or gray be her skies
Whether loud be her cheers or whether soft be her tears
More and more do I realize That I love Paris in the spring time
I love Paris in the fall
I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles
I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles

I love Paris every moment
Every moment of the year
I love Paris, why oh, why do I love Paris?
Because my love is near"

I don't care how corny I sound. When it comes to Paris, I just want to inhale it and preserve it.
See, eat, drink, do. Listen, taste, feel, breathe.

What is it about Paris that makes some of us daffy?
Is it the grand boulevards? The resplendent architecture? The soaring Eiffel Tower?

Maybe, but I think it's the small things, those little pleasures we find unexpectedly.
The delicious sprig of parsley that startles your taste buds. Parsley? Really? Yes, parsley.
Or little old men in Luxembourg Gardens slowly strolling down the garden path.
It could be the concierge sweeping the front hall of your apartment building
as she pretends not to stare at you.
Or perhaps it's the waiter who pauses a moment to notice that you're enjoying the house paté.
It's the whiff of the boulangerie every morning and
the stench of the cheese shop in the evening.
Then again, I think it may be the lace curtains in the crèperie that bring back
memories of Grandma.

Paris. It just works.
Go ahead, call me a Paris nut.
I gladly accept the title -- in blazing neon lights.

Mr. Sinatra Loved Paris -- Any Time of the Year

They Love Paris, too

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Sip by Sip

7/18/2014

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Most people who have never been to Paris imagine sitting in a café for hours at a time, sipping a glass of red wine. It's a lovely thought but, in reality, somewhat of a fairytale.

Ask any Frenchman or woman you know and they'll raise an eyebrow at the thought of sipping a red wine in the middle of the day. They're much more likely to order something different and save the red wine for lunch or dinner,
always pairing it with food.

Now that I've burst your bubble, should that ruin your
Audrey Hepburn moment in Paris?
Absolutely not! Here's what you may consider drinking in place of that mythical red:
Pastis
Lillet
Kir or Kir Royale
Suze
Champagne
Beer
Cocktails: Sidecar, French 75 or Black Rose

Love It or Hate It, Suze Has a Unique Taste

Toulouse Lautrec Enjoyed a Glass or Two

Pastis is an anise flavored aperitif, served cold and made famous in the south of France. In Paris, it has enjoyed a resurgence of popularity, particularly with bartenders who enjoy mixing it
into some pretty outrageous concoctions. Ricard and Pernod are the most famous brands. Drink it like a local by pouring some into a tall beverage glass (it's fairly clear), then add cold water (now it appears milky!). Whatever you do, don't add ice, at least not until the pastis and water have already mixed.
If you like black licorice, you're going to love this drink.

Lillet hails from the Bordeaux region. It comes in both white and red, the white being more available and popular as an aperitif. It's a mix of Bordeaux white, mysterious herbs and a variety of orange peels, both sweet and bitter. Served cold, it's often accompanied by the peel of either an orange or a lime. Sometimes served on ice in a short glass, other times it arrives in a wine glass. Popular but sometimes hard to find in Paris. Guess who else enjoys its honeyed flavors: Hannibal Lector, James Bond and Carmela Soprano. Draw your own conclusions!

Kir is white wine (usually chadonnay or chablis) mixed with creme de cassis (blackcurrant liquer) or occasionally with creme de mûre (blackberry), pêche (peach) or violet. Named after Felix Kir, one-time mayor of Dijon, it became famous after WWII when the famous red Burgundies were in short supply due to the plundering Nazis, who collected thousands of bottles of the precious red nectar. The bad guys left the whites behind for the most part so someone got enterprising and invented - ta-da - the Kir. A kir royale substitutes champagne for the white wine. Everyone pours this drink differently, sometimes it's a bit too sweet because of the ratio of liquer to wine. Light and refreshing plus easy to pronounce!

Suze is truly out of the ordinary. At first startled by it's almost bitter taste, I grew into it, enjoying its slightly medicinal flavor. Invented in Paris in the late 1800's, it was sometimes used as an herbal medicine to treat digestive problems. Gentian and bitters make up most of the unforgettable flavor. You will probably love it or hate it so if you're into gambling, take a chance and give it a try. Picasso must have had a taste for this abstract beverage. He featured it front and center in his collage Glass and a Bottle of Suze in 1912.

Champagne is synonymous with France, with wine, with sheer pleasure. Any time of day is right to drink the bubbly and in Paris, you'll see it as the beverage of choice in many different situations.
When in doubt, just order une coupe de champagne. Stylish and delicious.

Beer just makes sense. Both popular and spectacular, beer is the beverage of choice for many in Paris. After all, the French embraced brasseries as their own creation. The word brasserie doesn't just mean delicious food, it actually means brewery. Some popular brands are Kronenbourg 1664, Jenlain Blonde, Stella Artois (from next-door neighbor Belgium) and many micro-brews. Are you thirsty yet?

Cocktails are on-trend right now. They're everywhere and pretty much anything goes, especially with the younger crowd. A Sidecar is classic Hollywood fare and includes cognac, Cointreau (a delicious orange liquer that hails from Angers, France) and lemon juice. The French 75 (supposedly named after the kick you get from a French 75 gun) mixes gin, champagne, lemon and sugar in a lethal dose. Beware! I've seen several different recipes for a Black Rose which makes me wonder about its origin but most include grenadine syrup, cognac, and bitters with some muddled blackberries during the season. I must also
mention Jack Daniels Whiskey from my home state of Tennessee. Whenever French people ask about where I'm from, they always smile and either say Elvis or Jack. That says a lot for their taste.
But then we knew that.

Salut!
Enjoy your wine but remember all the other choices out there.
Cheers to all of you and thanks for visiting my blog!

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The House with No Locks

7/15/2014

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Booking a room is getting more and more expensive every year,
especially in €€€€ Paris.

The challenge is daunting but after years of hits and misses,
I think I've figured out a few words of advice:

1. DO YOUR HOMEWORK UPFRONT.

2. NARROW THE LIST DOWN TO A SPECIFIC CRITERIA.

3. FORGET-ABOUT-IT.

Let me explain.

1. Do Your Homework. Check out every available option, including location and preferred
type of accommodation. Ask yourself three main questions:

(1) Do I want to be in the center of the action or on the fringe where it's quiet?
(2) Transportation issues count -- when in Paris, make sure you're near a Metro stop. If you're staying in a countryside village, consider ease of road access and parking.
(3) Stick to your budget and read reviews (not always reliable but at least helpful)
to avoid any big surprises.

2. Many people ooh and aah over deluxe accommodations and make it the focus of their trip. Personally, I'd rather spend the extra cash on food, drink and fun.
You can choose a fancy schmancy hotel. But let's face it, Paris is Paris
and you're twice as likely to feel fulfilled by absorbing the most beautiful and interesting city in the world than by the sound system in your room.
Do you really need to stay at a 5-star hotel to be happy?
It's better to consider whether you'd prefer an apartment in the Marais
or a B&B near Montparnasse. Location, location, location
counts more than the number of stars associated with a property.
Are you bold enough to try a new neighborhood?
It's fun to return to a place you know but then again, it's amazing to find a new favorite.
If you've haven't traveled much, this is your opportunity to learn as you go.
I love apartments with extras like a washing machine and a small kitchen
so I feel more like a local.
BE FLEXIBLE.

3. Once you've arrived at your new Paris digs, make the best of it. Even the quirks. That's part of what makes travel an adventure. You're not moving in for life, you're crafting your memoir. Your hotel/B&B/apartment isn't even worth a chapter in the adventure you're writing. Maybe a paragraph. You hope for the best but if it's not, it shouldn't ruin the whole narrative. Save room ($$) for a sequel.

With years of travel in Europe under our belt, we've laughed ourselves
silly over some of the situations we've encountered.

1. The beautiful house in the picture you see here is located near Narbonne, a gorgeous city in the Languedoc region of France. We loved everything about it --- except that the door to our room wouldn't lock.
Who wants to leave their room wide open to just anyone, right? The proprietors just shrugged and said "Oh, we got rid of all the locks. People would lose their keys, it was a hassle so we decided not to worry about it."
The first night, I placed a heavy chair in front of the door so I could sleep in peace but after that we, too, realized it was no big deal. I felt right at home as people casually wandered down to breakfast in their dressing gowns and the proprietor
washed and dried my undies on a line for all to see.

2. Another time, we stayed in a hotel where the owner, a typically reserved (quiet and aloof) French woman, screamed to high heaven at her husband in the kitchen while everyone ate breakfast in the dining room. Other than her high pitched melodrama, you could hear a pin drop in the room.
No one (French clientele only) raised an eyebrow.
Disturbing at the time but a fun story to tell when we returned home.

3. Early in our travels, we "winged it" from time to time and made hotel reservations only after we arrived in a city. We learned our lesson as
we tried to book a room at the last minute in Senlis, a charming,
historical, medieval (translation = popular) town just north of Paris.
There was no room at the inn. Finally, we found a little place,
well located but slightly shabby, and booked for one night only.
The room decoration was interesting.
Portraits of Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor
were framed just above our bed.
My man was happy.

4. Staying in a wonderfully located apartment in Paris for a whole month, our landlord was mortified that he had to send a plumber over one morning
to fix a leak dripping from our bathroom into the apartment below.
It was no big deal to us. He showed up on time and we all enjoyed a very pleasant conversation as he plied his trade.
Our landlord apologized with a dozen macaroons from Ladurée and
a top notch bottle of champagne for our trouble.
Landlord 0; Gary & Michelle 10.

5. We stayed in a lovely B&B in Honfleur (Normandy). The proprietor explained we'd have to let ourselves in if we stayed out after midnight. We arrived late and spent twenty whole minutes figuring out that you had to turn the key TWICE to open the door. We've never forgotten that lesson and have encountered the same type of lock several times through the years.

6. Our hotels in Paris have varied from small to smaller. My husband still talks about the time the bathroom was so snug, you had to stick your butt out the door to wash your face and turn your whole body sideways to sit on the toilet.
I believe it was called a Hotel of Charm in the guidebook. ;)

7. Speaking of toilets, we once enjoyed a hotel stay in the Dordogne, where there was a skylight right above the commode. The view of the village's 14th century castle was pure perfection, seeming to hang over our heads and we fought over who got to enjoy the view,
especially at night when it lit up the sky.

If you watch and enjoy House Hunters International and you especially enjoy the Paris episodes with Adrian Leeds, the transplated American with an attitude (love it!), listen to her carefully. She never promises perfection. Her basic attitude is hey, this is Paris for crying out loud.
And that's exactly how I feel. I'll take the stairs. I'll suffer with a curtainless, hand-held shower head. I'll live with paper thin walls. Whatever it takes, it doesn't matter in the long run.
I get to "live" in the city of my dreams.
The same city where Napoleon and Josephine probably endured
too many stairs and very little hot water.
The same city where Josephine Baker, Jim Morrison and Ernest Hemingway
may have encountered a tiny bathroom or two.
Who cares?
It's still Paris, the same city where Audrey Hepburn once remarked,
"Paris is always a good idea."

More advice from Ms. Hepburn (as Sabrina):
"More isn't always better, Linus. Sometimes it's just more."
She gets it. Accommodations are just part of the trip. The magic is outside your door.

Welcome to Paris.

Wanted: Hotel with Good View from the Toilet

Brigitte Bardot

Elizabeth Taylor

Audrey Hepburn Knew How to Get Around Paris!

View of Pompidou Center from Paris Apartment is Extraordinary! Front and Center of the Action!

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A Perfect Paris A.M.

7/13/2014

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Luxembourg Feels Like Home

"To love beauty is to see light" said Victor Hugo,
who must have been intimately familiar with the parks of Paris.

Paris has dozens of parks, some large and imposing, others small and snugly intimate. All possess their own charm and certainly any traveler to Paris has a few that feel like a best friend.

When I sat down to write about a few of my favorites, I had the impossible job to narrow
down the list. Each park has its own character and chemistry.

So instead of trying to choose "Most Beautiful" or "Best Place to Stroll", I thought about
parks that get your day off to a great start.

We all suffer from mundane mornings from time to time. When in Paris,
there's no excuse to suffer from morning malaise.

Here are my suggestions for starting out your day just after that first cup of café crème.

Luxembourg Gardens and Palace Will Rev Your Engine

Luxembourg Gardens is just steps away from famous pastry magicians Gérard Mulot and Eric Kayser, two of the best reasons to consume calories while in Paris. You'll feel like a real Parisian as you feast your eyes on the locals starting their day in their own unique way.

- Put your feet up and catch up on today's news.

- Play a challenging game of chess or tennis.

- Take les gosse (kids) to ride the carousel and win the ring.

- Star gaze at local celebs who frequent the park.

- Float a sailboat on the water.

- Study the wooden bee "chateaux" in their own pesticide-free garden.

- Consult the queens who line the promenade.

- Practice tai chi to gain serenity & fitness.

-Marvel over the local color of the surrounding neighborhood.

- Check out the cute gendarmes presiding over the garden.

Wake Up to Royal Passion in the Tuileries

Jar

Jardins des Tuileries may be for you if you think you're royalty --- or have high ambition....

This is where the crowned heads of France started their day until the Sun King decided
Paris was just a bit too close for comfort.

- Pick up your favorite book across the street at WHSmith
and find a quiet spot before the crowds hit.

- Study a Maillol statue and embrace your curves.

- Launch a sailboat or follow a duck at the pond.

- Bounce on the new trampolines (if you're a kid).

- Contemplate a trip to the Louvre just down the garden path .... but then get sidetracked by
a steaming chocolat chaud at Angelina's across the street.

The Best Kind of Morning Surprise at Parc de Belleville

Parc de Belleville is indeed off the beaten path but well worth the effort.
You won't get a better view from its summit.

- Think about that duck confit you consumed last night and climb the stairs -- twice.

- Honor Belleville's most famous icon by singing an Edith Piaf song .... or at least
look tragic and très triste.

- Lounge on the grass with the locals and share your clutch of cherries (found
nearby at marché de Belleville) with a cute boy/girl.

- Ask for directions to the artist's street rue Denoyez where street art is
not only legal but encouraged.

- Doodle a picture of The Triplets of Belleville.

- Congratulate yourself for veering off the beaten path.

- Stare at the Eiffel Tower in the distance distinctly mirrored in your sunglasses.

- Call Le Baratin for lunch reservations.

Greet the Beautiful People at Parc Monceau

Parc Monceau is the place to be if you want to show off your latest fashionable threads.
Style rules the pathways.

This park is gorgeous, upscale but still welcoming. Even the joggers look good.

- Embrace your inner Parisian as you stroll in wearing the latest carefully cultivated look. Les mamans and les nounous (nannies) will gaze at you with approval.

- Petit dejeuner couldn't be easier as famous market street, rue des Lévis
is just a few steps away.

- Look for the plaque that commemorates the first parachutist that landed here in 1797.

- Think of famous architect Baron Haussmann who inspired so much of
the surrounding neighborhood.

- Try to get over your gate-envy.

- Sit near the Corinthian colonnades and pretend you live in
one of the tony mansions that surround the park.

- Plan to rob a bank.

Parc de la Villette Meets and Greets You with Charm

Parc de la Villette is often missed because it's in the 19th arrondissement,
far from tourist central.

It's the people's park, a wonderful green space in the middle of an explosive immigrant population, as fun and unique as any in central Paris.

At first glance, I was underwhelmed because I saw a lot of concrete instead of nature. As I walked a bit further, the park revealed greenery and marvelously creative visual effects.

This is Paris magic at its best.
You get a canal, grapevines, a mysterious scary garden and
hordes of locals enjoying daily life.

- Kick a ballon de football (soccer) with the locals.

- Watch the little people slide down the Dragon Slide.

- Walk across the raised walkway to enjoy the view of the Canal de l'Ourcq.

- Contemplate the butchery of the slaughterhouse transformed into Le Grande Hall and nearby bistro specializing in, what else, beef.

- Check out the Géode IMAX Theatre or the Cité de la Musique.

- Tickle your inner child at the hands-on "Enfants" section at
the Cité de Sciences et des Industries.

- Scare yourself silly in the Garden of Childhood Fears.

- Count your lucky stars that you're bold enough to seek something your friends
probably haven't even heard of.

PARIS PARKS = A PERFECT START TO YOUR PERFECTLY PARIS DAY

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Thank You France Today!

7/11/2014

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Thank You, France Today!
You've long been one of my all-time favorite French publications.
It's a good day to wake up and see an article published with your own name right next to it.

Don't miss the good advice "In Search of the Perfect Paris Plan" by Michelle Moggio, contributor for France Today. Find the full article here In Search of the Perfect Paris Plan - France Today (July 10, 2014)
or go directly to www.francetoday.com and make a new
best friend.

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Grateful for Graffiti

7/9/2014

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ART or Urban Blight?

He Knows Where to Find the Real Paris

Walking down the rue du Rivoli one day, I spotted this crazy looking art gallery promotion. Inspirational stuff!

We expect to see the greatest hits of world art in Paris and of course we find that left and right.

But don't you love stumbling on your own great art discovery?

Paris is surprising. It's whimsical. It's sometimes even silly.

And that's what we love best.

Paris graffiti, I'm grateful for you. Urban blight or street art? It's Paris, the city where debate over art (or just about anything) reigns supreme.

Whether in the form of playfully painted urban expressionism or carefully crafted gallery art that's a bit "out there", I believe there's a place for all kinds of street art in today's modern city.

Paris is no museum city. It's expressive, sometimes even outlandish and always forward thinking.

In the words of Auguste Rodin:
"The main thing is to be moved, to hope, to tremble, to live."

RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!

Check out the hip jeunes filles to the right. Are they running to or from the audacious Pompidou Center?

"Art is meant to disturb. Science reassures." said french painter Georges Braque. I like that thought.

What are your thoughts?
Art or vandalism?
Appealing or pointless?
Hilarious or tragic?

Either way, whatever your opinion, in Paris you'll see art. Lots of art. And it sure beats staring at your computer screen all day long. Give it a chance. Embrace the happy.

Think about it. Really, really look.
Take your time.
Get out and see it.
Feel it.
Change your outlook.
It will talk to you.

Calling All Art Critics!

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Fat & Happy in Paris

Lafayette and The Americans

Petit Palais Treasure Chest

Life on Rue Daguerre

There's No Such Thing as Too Much Paris

Sip by Sip

The House with No Locks

A Perfect Paris A.M.

Thank You France Today!

Grateful for Graffiti

AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!

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AUTHORMICHELLE MOGGIOThanks for visiting my blog!

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AUTHOR
MICHELLE MOGGIO
Thanks for visiting my blog!