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Montparnasse Moves like Jagger

5/23/2016

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Individual style and personal liberty are the sum of all things Montparnasse.
Celebrated.  Significant.  Unforgettable.
Layers of history, mountains of memories.

That's why, for the life of me, I cannot understand why some travelers
relegate this neighborhood to the back of the Paris burner, favoring the
more crowded arrondissements that cling to the River Seine.

Central Paris.  Exactly what is it and where do you find it?
   Whenever I watch House Hunters International, I have to grit my teeth a bit.
It seems that those who venture beyond the first seven
arrondissements fret about being too far from "central" Paris.
  As my father used to say, they don't know sh*# from shinola.

Montparnasse is the perfect example.
  Its border hugs Saint-Germain-des-Pres, a high-rent neighborhood
with all the advantages -- a major "must-see" on any Paris GPS.
The two are connected, yet their stature is miles apart,
the edge seemingly always awarded to St-Germain-DP.
But I think of it this way:
  Montparnasse (14th arr.) is the backbone to
the more polished Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th arr.),
the girl with all the guts who paved the way for her little sister's glory.

It's true, parts of Montparnasse are gritty -- pairing neon and
metropolitan gray with a nighttime glare that screams danger ahead.
  So what if the 6th is younger, prettier and more refined than the 14th?
  They both offer something special to the curious traveler.

Why limit yourself to the narrow endorsement of those who favor
rigidly sticking to their version of central Paris when you can walk just
a few blocks further and jump into the pages of a rollicking Rolling Stones experience....with a wide range of entertainment and interests that matter.

    After all, you wouldn't give up your Mick Jagger
or your Michael Bublé; you love having it both ways.
  So go ahead, love Montparnasse the way you already love
Saint-Germain-des-Prés and get ready to rock
the diverse life out of Paris and the diverse Paris out of life.

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Every Paris neighborhood imparts its own individual signature.
  Montparnasse is certainly no exception to the rule. 
Its village like atmosphere, particularly during the Jazz Age 1920's
right up to the dawn of WWII, was spectacularly intriguing.
From Hemingway and Picasso to Isadora Duncan and Savadore Dali,
intellectuals and artists ruled the day, living on booze and conversation
while suffering for their art in the squalid quarters that surrounded them.
As Jean Cocteau once famously quipped, "Poverty was a luxury in Montparnasse."
Their apartments were cramped and dark, often without heat or running water.
No wonder residents like Henry Miller and Samuel Beckett retreated
to the welcoming cafés and the imaginative
"family" that stimulated their novels and poetry.

The celebrated literary cafes brought left-leaning intellectuals like Leon
Trotsky and a medley of artistic characters and deep thinkers.
Writers, artists, performers, and philosophers arrived from every corner of the world.
  They came for inspiration and the chance to meet others
who lived and loved life to the max.
Wine and cognac, love nests and hangovers are evidently the magical elixir
  that breed poetry and brilliant artistic technique.


"That was the dream of Montparnasse: to live for the moments of the greatest intensity, to find in them a truthful inspiration, and to hell with all the rest."
Philip Sington, English Novelist

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"Dinner is not something you do in the evening before something else.
  Dinner is the evening."
Art Buchwald, American writer & humorist

The cafés of Montparnasse were where you came to live life. 
  They were the living rooms of some of the most acclaimed artists of the day. 
Ernest Hemingway wrote most of "The Sun Also Rises" on the terrace of
La Closerie des Lilas while Jean-Paul Sartre and
Simone de Beauvoir established themselves at Le Dome.
  From Zelda and F. Scott Fitzgerald to Man Ray and Kiki de Montparnasse,
there was a lot going on both under and above the favorite tables of the 14th. 

Today you can choose from any of the old superstar cafés, many of which
have been either upgraded or restored to their former glory.
The remarkable La Coupole will never go out of style, its huge dining hall
teeming with hundreds of chatty and happy customers.
  A platter of raw oysters paired with a glass of chilled champagne
will fill you with a joie de vivre like no other.
  Nearby Le Dome offers the freshest seafood in the city while Le Duc's
quiet glamour cooks up some of the best fish in France.

  Why so much seafood in Montparnasse?
That one's easy.
  Since 1840, la Gare Montparnasse has served Brittany and the Atlantic Coast, bringing Breton coastal culinary savvy (as well as crepes!) to its gate. 
Dig a little deeper into the neighborhood and you'll discover a real Breton
lighthouse that lights the way to an enormous local fish market.
One thing for sure, you'll never go hungry in Montparnasse.

"There is never any ending to Paris."
Ernest Hemingway, American Writer & Journalist


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Though a few of its streets -- most famously, Montparnasse Boulevard -- may
 appear a bit gruesome and gray, there are just as many hug-worthy
little avenues and alleys that remain lovely and inviting. 
House "hunting" is one of my favorite guilty pleasures as I navigate from
one great Paris landmark to the next -- and in Montparnasse, it's a real treat.

One day, when walking from Place Denfert-Rochereau to parc Montsouris
along leafy green avenue René Coty, I was so deep into my house-hunting
fantasy that I was almost sorry when I arrived at my pretty destination.

But then again, the park did not disappoint. 
Certainly not as famous as some of the more promoted parks in Paris,
parc Montsouris is a name and address to remember.
  If you're looking for the real Paris, look no further. 

Typical in the age of Napoleon III and chief city planner Baron Haussmann,
the park, opened in 1869, offers their well known signature -- wide open spaces
and lush English-style landscape for all lucky enough to walk the inviting lawns.
  Your happy feet will glide past picnicking locals and a man-made
lake filled with wild ducks and exotic swans.
  A guignol (puppet) theater and a gastronomic restaurant -- tempting terrace
of course -- and hundred of trees, flowers and shrubs complete the pretty
postcard minus the familiar crowds of a Tuileries or a Luxembourg. 

It's all picture-perfect and you won't even mind breaking a sweat
as you climb the gentle slopes from one end to the other.
Special Note: This is the park where my favorite
middle-age-lonely-heart-fanny-pack-white-athletic-shoe-wearing-American
finally finds something she's been looking for all her life... well, I don't want
to give it all away but if you haven't seen Alexander Payne's "Paris, Je t'Aime",
it's a piece of cinema history that you'll cherish for years to come.

Tip: Don't miss the side streets that surround the park where you're
sure to find your "own" wisteria covered mansion....

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Museums are plentiful in Montparnasse with a great variety of choices. 
The Musée Bourdelle is a great discovery, an actual artist
 studio-museum that's a bit off the tourist circuit -- no crowds -- featuring
 incredible sculpture by Rodin's chief assistant.  Read more here.

The modern glass facade of Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain on
Boulevard Raspail is hard to miss and you never know what to expect inside.
  We once visited a rollicking multi-media exhibit featuring American Rock 'n Roll.
As you leave, take a moment to admire the gorgeous tree-lined avenue with its
grand apartment buildings, wrought-iron balconies and quiet elegance.

Side streets are more than a second thought in Montparnasse.
  A few of my favorites include rue de la Grande Chaumiere (Antoine Bourdelle
and Modigliani were here) and rue Campagne-Premiere.
  I once stayed in a hotel on the latter just because it was the former love nest
of Man Ray and Kiki de Montparnasse -- so maybe the WiFi wasn't the best,
but I thrilled to the feeling of being front and center in Paris history. 

If museums and historic cafés are too staid for your taste, there's always
Pari Roller -- sometimes referred to as Friday Night Fever.
It originates in Montparnasse not from from the Tower (I've been trying
not to refer to that tall black thing on the horizon) so if you're brave
 and have abundant insurance coverage, it's probably a hoot.
  Hundreds, at times, thousands of roller-bladers show
up for a police escorted glide through the city. 

For you shoppers, try to squeeze in a Sunday visit to the marché aux puces
at the Porte de Vanves, a lovely peek
into the way real Parisians spend their leisure time.
  It's affordable enough for cheapskates like me and all of you collectors out there
will particularly appreciate the offbeat small treasures that will fit in your suitcase.

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The Empire of the Dead, better known as Les Catacombes de Paris,
is arguably the most famous landmark in Montparnasse.
  It's cool and creepy, a curious mix of city planning and macabre amusement.

  Judging by the lines wrapped around the entrance come rain or shine,
most visitors will do anything to scare up a little taste of hellish fun.
  The bones of 6,000,000 people piled up as high as your shoulders pale in comparison to the unfathomable 3,000 kilometers of damp tunnels
that lie beneath the civilized streets of Montparnasse.
  A creep show for sure though after a few hundred bones, claustrophobia and
spiral staircases are in fact, a bit more ghastly than the actual skeletal remains.

Afterwards, it's always a good idea to reward yourself and all your earthly remains
to the joys of middle class market street rue Daguerre, just a few blocks further.
  As I said in an earlier blog about this remarkable cobbled stretch
of real Paris, life is good on rue Daguerre.

  And if you still have some doubts, just try a bite or two of Camembert
from famous fromage purveyor Androuet or better yet,
enjoy a relaxing lunch on the terrace of Maison Péret,
boasting four generations (open since 1908) of wine wisdom.
  Begin perhaps with some goose rillettes or charcuterie from
the Auvergne or save your appetite for my favorite classic -- open
faced toasts (Poilane!) topped with melting cheese: Bleu d'Auvergne,
Rocamadour and Saint-Nectaire, paired with one of their recommended wines.
  Finish off with a scoop of Berthillon -- save some raspberry-rose for me -- and
say "Merci, Montparnasse" as you wonder why you've never been here before.

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Your journey through Paris is not complete without a meaningful look
at the engaging streets of Montparnasse, guardian of the Left Bank.
 
Mix it up.  Spice it up. 
It'll make you move like Jagger.


"Anything worth doing is worth overdoing."
Mick Jagger

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Big Daddy of All Castles

5/15/2016

1 Comment

 
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Travel sometimes feels more like a negotiation than a U.N. Summit Meeting.
  You stare at the map and ache to visit every irresistible little town...
until reality sets in and you realize you need to "pick your battles".

  Throughout France, the competition is stiff.
  Too many treasures to count, so many places to love....
After a while you start feeling like a shipwreck lost at sea. 
So you narrow the list, take a chance and BOOM!
You land in the place you've been dreaming of all your life.

That's just how we felt when we worked our way to Fougères,
namesake of both castle and town in beautiful Brittany.

There it was, the castle to beat all castles, the one we
will use to measure every other feudal fortress hereafter...
  Think big.  Think magical. 
Think butterflies in the tummy awesome.
Chateau de Fougères is in a league of its own.

It just may be the best medieval castle of all time.

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Don't confuse this feudal stronghold
with the pretty Renaissance chateaux of the Loire.
 This is one hundred percent medieval, partly in ruin, but utterly captivating.

Few castles are as evocative of a specific time and place as this one.
When first built, it was surrounded by water, its moat
exaggerating the strong physical heft you see today.
Shouldering 11 imposing towers, the massive fortress-castle maintains
ramparts perfect for a stroll in a make-believe feudal kingdom. 

The chateau began as a primitive wooden structure in the
11th century, later rebuilt to fortress strength in stone
and continually modified over the next 400 years. 
A town grew around its ramparts and taken as a whole, you'll
be privileged to see history, and better still, FEEL it in every step you take.

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The history of Chateau de Fougères is an on-again off-again melodrama
of conflict between France and England.
  Everyone wanted a piece of the Brittany tarte and a torrent
of power struggle and fighting included notables such as
King Henry II of England and Francis I of France.

But for my money, the most haunting history waited until the 20th century.
Brittany's anguish under Nazi rule came to a head on June 8, 1944
when Operation Overlord forever changed the landscape
of Fougères and the surrounding area.
Bomb after bomb devastated the beautiful land
in order to rid France of the Nazi threat.

Too often, we think only of Normandy when it comes to the early
clashes and deadly destruction during the Allied invasion in WWII.
American and other Allied forces fought the enemy and won, though
the good citizens of Fougères, having long endured Nazi tyranny,
lost their homes, their industry and too often even their lives.
The Battle of Brittany was a battle to win the Atlantic, ensuring a free flow of fuel, weapons and troops for the remainder of the great war.
We are grateful that the great castle of Fougères is still standing.

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Fougères Bonus:
  Just 14 miles north (to Saint-James) of the chateau,
look for the Brittany American Cemetery and Memorial, regrettably
 too often an overlooked historical marker on the Brittany landscape.

  Many of us only seek out the more famous cemeteries
of nearby Normandy but this one is special too.
On 28 rolling acres of lush green grass, 4,410 American soldiers
are buried, forever remembered by the grateful citizens of France.
A memorial wall includes 499 names of those missing in action and
every year, hundreds of military elite (both French & American),
Fougère locals and lovers of freedom, gather to give thanks.

The chapel showcases stained glass and sculpture
with the Great Seal of the United States.
Bells toll daily to pay respect to those who gave their lives to liberate
France, including two Medal of Honor recipients
whose graves forever memorialize the soldiers' ultimate sacrifice.

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We dreamers want to believe in places like Fougères,
castles and knights, fair maidens and happily ever after. 
As we grow up and learn the disheartening truth of "castles in the air",
we sometimes lose our way and need history's reminders.
   I believe we should all dare to dream the impossible, get lost
 in wistful thoughts of winning the horse race or writing a best-selling novel.

Fougères is a great place to inspire such imaginings --  speculation
gone wild, a thoughtful roam to another dimension.
Plan a trip tout de suite to this part of Brittany
and re-write your own storybook ending.


Chateau de Fougères -- where time passes gently,
offering a chance to get lost in a nearly forgotten time and place.

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Josephine's Lair

5/6/2016

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Josephine Bonaparte 
Her name inspires visions of tempestuous love and unforgettable style.
 A force who parlayed her power far beyond the bedroom,
  she's the empress who practically invented the word celebrity.
Before Madonna, before Prince, before Beyoncé,
  there was Josephine, the dynamo known by just one name,
her brand transcending the confines of her superstar stature.
Josephine was Napoleon's lucky star, often described
as the secret weapon in his quest to rule the world.

More than anything, Josephine evokes a sense of time and place -- France
during the heady years of Napoleon's reign -- where so much of his
legacy sprang up not from the battlefield but from the home his
resourceful partner carefully nurtured -- the lovely Malmaison.

Now restored to its former glory, Chateau de Malmaison
is a thrilling walk into the life and times of the storied couple.
Just seven miles from Paris, treat yourself to a quiet
  afternoon walking its stylish corridors and grounds.
  Evoking a personal intimacy, Malmaison feels like a secret discovery.
A walk with the ghost of France Past, you can almost hear their footsteps.....

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Napoleon was furious when Josephine first bought the run-down property in 1799. Her extravagant renovations cost him a pretty penny.
While the general was away conquering the world one battle at a time,
Josephine busied herself transforming chateau and grounds into
a shangri-la that befitted her husband, the future emperor.

She put every bit of her energy into the revamp, putting her personal
stamp on everything, the beautiful gardens in particular.
Josephine's ambitious vision was forward thinking and fruitful,
determined to create "the garden of France"
in tribute to her adopted nation and hero husband.
Her green revolution flourished, a success that won over even Napoleon.
She and her garden architects included a heated orangery for 300
 pineapple plants, a greenhouse and most famously, a remarkable rose garden.
They cultivated nearly 200 plants that were completely new to France,
creating an air of feminine beauty and freedom.
Dahlias, lilies, and roses - the scent of a woman -- an escape from
troublesome wars, armies of wounded men and 19th century hardships.

Neither as large nor as posh as Versailles or Loire chateaux,
Malmaison feels like a real house that's tastefully decorated
and lived in -- well, as real as it can get for a pair of
Romeo & Juliet crowned heads of state....

Chateau de Malmaison's safe harbor served as the refined setting for the world's most famous twosome, reflecting their transition from love nest to empty nest.

"There's no place like home."
Dorothy Gale, from "The Wizard of Oz"

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Grand, but not overdone, the chateau incorporated council rooms
so Napoleon could conduct official state business.
History was written behind these walls, including one of the most
influential laws penned in the nineteenth century, The Code Napoleon,
  edicts dedicated to civil rights, freedom of religion and equality for all (men).

Josephine sought to offer a home that would please her husband's he-man side
while maintaining her vision of romance and daring style. 
She made sure Napoleon's official office was also a luxurious retreat.
The sound of birdsong was always on hand -- parakeets and cockatoos -- one
of which allegedly cried "Bonaparte" to everyone within earshot.
Kangaroos, zebras, llamas and and other wildlife roamed the grounds,
highlighting the military genius's expansive world view
while extending extraordinary amusement to anyone who visited.

  Tulips from Holland and lilies from Egypt made heads turn.
From the marble floors to the luxury furnishings,
Josephine filled their world with splendor and good taste.
  Beautifully decorated, Malmaison must have been like a long slow drink of
honeyed wine that made Napoleon's hard fought battles feel long ago and far away.

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Chateau de Malmaison's wine cellar purportedly once held some 13,000 bottles.
The best wines were served at Josephine's lavish parties where
beautiful 18th century bottles and glasses set the glamorous stage.

Champagne was served, of course, as well as
rum from Josephine's native Martinique.
The Bonapartes promoted a "new" favorite -- wine from Bordeaux -- in
an age where most people (Napoleon included) were apt to champion Burgundy.

 Imagine the dining room table --  frescoes of sexy Pompeian dancers hovered
above over-the-top table settings to the delight of the amazed guests.
To top it off, the skilled and seductive hostess, clad in the most stylishly
"correct" dress of the day -- gauzy, embellished with gold, silver or even rose
 petals -- often invited her well dressed baby orangutan "Rose" to the festivities.
Oh to be a fly on that wall!
She intuitively knew how to work it, making sure
Napoleon had a reason to return home after every battle.

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Josephine's lair was a combination of The Pentagon and Downton Abbey,
a G.I. Joe and Aphrodite omelette that mingled
political reality with romantic fiction.

  Josephine worked her end to its best advantage, always keeping
the needs and ego of Napoleon front and center.  
Her feminine side appealed to the ruthless warrior who came home
exhausted from the filth of war and perpetual political plots.
 His very own princess-bride, he gave in to her
outlandish spending habits and overstuffed wardrobe.
  It was said that in one year alone she ordered 520 pair of shoes.
 
Napoleon was a man in love. 
And much more -- insatiable for power and world dominance, it sometimes
seemed he was equally ravenous to conquer one woman body and soul.
His letters from the battlefield were filled with snapchat-like lust for Josephine with words such as "a kiss on your heart and one much lower down, much lower" and
my personal favorite -- "I am coming home. Don't wash."
  Evidently, the man who lived a life filled with RISK and DANGER
often found it at home in bed -- a campaign he always won....

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Strong, complicated, and doubtlessly determined to keep her crown and her man, Josephine "built" Chateau de Malmaison from the ground floor up.
  Surely, she reveled in her triumph.
But not for long.

There were issues from the very beginning. 
  Napoleon's family objected to her advanced age, correctly assuming it might
prevent her from issuing Napoleon's -- thereby France's -- heirs. 
In spite of their passionate romance and steamy encounters,
the couple was never rewarded with children. 
Spelling disaster for the emperor and empress, the stress and
family subterfuge eventually collapsed the marriage.

Napoleon, big daddy to France, needed an heir.
He found his "womb" and made his move.
  Divorcing a heart-broken Josephine, he married Marie-Louise
of Austria and finally became a father.

  Josephine, meanwhile, wasn't about to let an 18-year-old
husband-stealing archduchess get the best of her.
Nor would she let any grass grow underneath her royal derriere. 
She continued to reside at Malmaison, title intact, and managed to swallow
her pride, throwing lavish parties for the emperor and his new wife and son.
She had escaped the sharp blade of the guillotine earlier in life
and wasn't about to let a divorce cut the life out of her.
Chateau de Malmaison was her salvation.

"Life is like a bicycle.  Keep moving."
Albert Einstein

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This was one of Napoleon's last stops before his permanent exile on St. Helena.
Josephine had already perished, doubling his misery and pain.

And to the very end, Napoleon thought first of France, his army and Josephine, doubtlessly rooted in deep ties to his personal sanctuary at Chateau de Malmaison.
Perhaps as he lay dying, he realized though he ruled the world, she ruled his heart.

"A person often meets his destiny on the road he took to avoid it."
Jean de la Fontaine, french poet

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Make a date with destiny and be sure to include
Chateau de Malmaison on your next trip to Paris.
A walk down Napoleon & Josephine Lane is more than a history lesson.
Malmaison is a gift to travelers who live for the chance to get swept up
into a richly layered history that reads more like fiction than reality.

Legendary Lovers
by Katy Perry

"Under a silver moon, tropical temperature
I feel my lotus bloom, come closer
I want your energy, I want your aura
You are my destiny, my mantra
Never knew I could see something so clearly looking through my third eye
Never knew karma could be so rewarding and bring me to your life
Maybe this is the beginning of something so magical, tonight (oh, oh)
Take me down to the river
Underneath the blood orange sun
Say my name like a scripture
Keep my heart beating like a drum
Legendary lovers, we could be legendary
Legendary lovers, we should be legendary
Go down in history
Go down together, into infinity, forever
You're Cleopatra
You're blushing Juliet

Anything for your love, a ride or die
Never knew I could see something so clearly looking through my third eye
Never knew karma could be so rewarding and bring me to your life
Maybe this is the beginning of something so magical, tonight (oh, oh)
Take me down to the river
Underneath the blood orange sun
Say my name like a scripture
Keep my heart beating like a drum
Legendary lovers, we could be legendary
Legendary lovers, we should be legendary
Take me down to the river
Underneath the blood orange sun
Say my name like a scripture
Keep my heart beating like a drum
Legendary lovers, we could be legendary
Legendary lovers, we should be legendary"


Songwriters
KATY PERRY, BONNIE LEIGH MCKEE, MAX MARTIN, LUKASZ GOTTWALD, HENRY WALTER
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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