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An Aha Moment in Paris

1/26/2016

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It happened so fast, I was caught totally off-guard. 
There I was, walking across what is arguably the most
magnificent bridge in Paris, -- le Pont Alexandre III -- enjoying one
of this planet's most fetching spectacles.
Strolling straight towards Les Invalides, feeling like a million bucks ...
when I hit the brick wall of an uncomfortable truth.

  The research, the reading, the serious study of french culture,
history, art, -- the reverence for all things Paris....
  Is it all just an excuse for my biggest weakness -- mon amour fou?
It was an aha moment, an ultimate truth -- realizing that more than any
museum, work of art or fabulous architectural wonder -- I just wanted lunch.
And I wanted it in a big way.

It's true, I had looked forward to a delightful déjeuner all morning,
planning my visit to the Petit Palais early so I could strategically boogie
over to Les Invalides quartier for a "date" with a famous chef.

  My come-to-Jesus moment recognized a hunger -- and a thirst....
  And perhaps a bit of shame.
I felt like a fraud.

But wait a minute, maybe this self-judgment is a tad too harsh.
As the good people of France will tell you,
a hunger for french cuisine comes as naturally as breathing.
In reality, dining IS a noble pursuit -- as respectable as exploring
the most iconic Paris landmarks.
As a matter of fact, french cuisine IS one of France's greatest treasures,
a pleasure defined by inclusion on UNESCO's World Heritage List.

As I continued my petite promenade, my eureka moment
turned into a second revelation.
  All this fabulous Paris beauty, nobility and refinement makes a traveler hungry.

  So there you go.
No need to overthink this, c'est pas ma faute -- pas tragique.
My emotional tug-of-war is not the least bit bit vulgar, just
 a little harmless lust for the wonders of fine french cuisine.
Perhaps not as honorable as touring a fine french chateau
or heeding the higher call of a fine museum, but certainly as essential
to the Paris experience as seeing the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre .
Enlightenment, scholarship, cultivation -- whatever you want to call it --
goes hand-in-hand with eating well in Paris.

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But first things first. 
Enjoying every nano-second of this Paris perfect walk, I wondered about
the historic bridge that would deliver me to the promised land.

The Pont Alexandre III was built in 1900 to celebrate the diplomatic alliance
between France and Russia -- sort of....
In truth, the strategic alliance and the big bold bridge were really
just a slap at Great Britain
as the super-powers fought over British influence in Eastern Africa.
  It seems that politics were as petty and vindictive as they are today.

  But hey, we got a gorgeous bridge out of all this imperialistic bickering. 
Lamp posts dripping in gold, delightful sculptures and people dotting the way...
They really showed them, didn't they?

"Peace begins with a smile."
Mother Theresa

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And now, the reason for my energetic march. 
Les Cocottes de Christian Constant is a sleek and shining, slightly mischievous bistro that perfectly sums up today's fresh approach to french cuisine. 
Superb cooking in a fun, no-reservations atmosphere,
Les Cocottes presents the classics with a twist.

  As I seated myself at the long bar, I was immediately caught up
in the youthful energy and welcoming food that surrounded me.
It was brisk and easy-going, much like an American lunch counter -- except
here, healthy servings of comfort food come with classic sophisticated french flair.

Chef Christian Constant is well known throughout France,
notably as a judge on the popular t.v. show "Top Chef France". 
He practically "owns" rue Saint-Dominique, running three respected establishments, including the sophisticated Michelin starred Violon de Ingrès
and classic Café Constant just a few doors down.
  Hailing from the heartland of french gastronomical magic, Constant has
an impressive resume of distinguished cooking
including stints at Les Ambassadeurs and The Ritz.

  Les Cocottes is hip, casual, enthusiastic and up to the minute in every detail.
  The food is memorable, in part for the presentation -- often served in
little cocottes -- individual Staub Dutch casseroles -- that
define many of his standards. 

From crème de lentil  to sea bass en cocotte, you can't go wrong
by dining here -- ultra fresh, extra good.
  His salads are a marvel, adding unique little touches to classic recipes.
The relatively small space buzzed as diners seated at high tables
merrily chewed and chatted.
 I'm betting that locals in this arrondissement -- the highest priced district in
 Paris -- often make Les Cocottes de Christian Constant their home away from home.

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It all happens on rue Saint-Dominique, a street with two distinctly different faces.  Though heading west from the restaurant may be a little more well
traveled -- you'll practically bump into
Les Invalides, the Champs de Mars
and rue Cler -- my heart belongs to the more residential vibe of the street
as it heads east toward Boulevard St. Germain and Raspail.

  You'll amaze to the spectacle of addresses dripping in luxury, power and history. 
Named after a 16th century monastery that once stood nearby, this classic
Paris street is home to extravagant mansions of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
  Napoleon's mom once resided on this block and to this day, you can
picture the Little Emperor paying his mum an obligatory visit.
  Alexander Dumas, Sarah Bernhardt, and James Fenimore Cooper are
just a few of history's honored residents of the exclusive quartier.

Two more boulevards -- Grenelle and Varenne -- run parallel, nearly equal in
star power -- admirable mansions, embassies, breathtaking doors
and fashionable residents who live behind them.
It's a lovely way to spend the afternoon, parading up and down
this reflection of the Paris you dream about -- perhaps dropping by
the Musée Maillol at 61 rue de Grenelle for a your daily dose of art. 

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That was so much fun, I want to do it again.
 Perhaps tomorrow, a return visit to Eric Frechon's brasserie Lazare in the 12th*...

I love any excuse to go to the 12th and of course,
it's strikingly different from the powerhouse 7th.
  The choices are endless -- the Marché Aligre, Le Baron Rouge wine bar,
Promenade Plantée, Picpus Cemetery, even a museum I haven't yet met....
It's an honest-to-goodness working class neighborhood that
offers a peek into the lives of regular Parisians.

And then there's my restaurant choice of the day. 
Lazare is a neo-brasserie, stylish and bustling, offering delicious
french menus that feel both traditional and modern in the same bite. 
A large space tempts diners who come to admire the tiled floors,
traditional blackboard, long bar, stocked shelves and celebrated cuisine.
  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in an atmosphere that's always hopping.  Although a table d'hote (communal table) is on offer,
It's best to make a reservation a day or two in advance. 

The reason for all the hubbub is the superstar chef -- Eric Fréchon,
a unique talent whose long list of accomplishments have earned his
   nation's top honor -- Chevalier of the Legion of Honour (akin to being knighted).
  Awarded 3 Michelin stars for his restaurant across town -- Le Bristol -- he also operates a third respectable restaurant -- Le Mini Palais -- with outstanding reviews.  Chef Fréchon earned his big name by cooking in some of the most elite restaurants in the city -- including long-time icons Taillevent and La Tour d'Argent.

 Lazare, located in the forecourt of the Gare St. Lazare, has a
wonderful and varied menu with dishes that spark your appetite
as well as your sense of aesthetics.
Starters like cauliflower cream soup, avocado, grapefruit & crab salad
   and a better-than-average charcuterie plate will point you in the right direction.
  You'll be spoiled by the large variety of delicious mains including halibut,
duck, and lamb, served up with both traditional and contemporary elements.
  Desserts are stunning and of course the bar is well stocked.
  And in the end, it's just a fun place to go.

*Please note, I was obviously hopelessly lost when I wrote this blog because
Lazare is located in the 8th arrondissement, not the 12th.
  I confused the Gare de Lyon with the Gare St. Lazare.
  Please forgive my confusion -- and take it as an excuse to visit the 12th anyway.
You'll enjoy the adventure!

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One of the main reasons we travel abroad is to absorb new sights and new tastes.
  It relieves us from our standard routines and clears the
useless rubbish that disastrously collects in our heads.

Can you think of any better reason to come to Paris?
  When you combine a long and leisurely neighborhood walk
with a dining experience to match, you've done exactly
what makes Paris life so interesting and worthwhile.
Step back and witness what's going on around you.

  Enjoy the moment and feel the lift.
And revel in your very own aha moment.

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To Gordes or Not to Gordes

1/16/2016

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Politicians and business magnates aren't the only
pundits practicing "the art of the deal".
Savvy travelers eventually learn that good planning is a matter of connecting
the dots -- and re-negotiating with yourself is just part of the package.
 
You want to see everything and -- alas! -- there's never enough time or silver.
  Finding the the most magic for the money is
the end game -- so often easier said than done.
Once you begin to logically plot your path, you search out the happy medium,
a mix of what you really want paired with time, money and reality.

The Luberon is always touted as one of the most beautiful spots in Provence. 
I wouldn't argue with that.  The choices are endless. 
One of the biggest peacocks in this area is the drop-dead gorgeous village of Gordes, famously included on the short list of "the most beautiful villages in France".
Home to countless spreads in glossy magazines, movies and books,
 I was gently annoyed by its fame -- particularly the warnings that came with
the fanfare -- crowded, teeming with tourists, high-brow, pricey ..... certainly a recurrent theme that made me half consider bypassing the town
in lieu of undiscovered little burgs with less hullabaloo. 

But then I remembered, this was my race and by George, I was going to win it --
and after years of travel, I know the best advice is to
forget the competition and run your own course.
Ignoring my own reservations, we confidently made off for Gordes one
lovely spring day, hoping to catch a glimpse of the magic
before the alleged army of sightseers vanquished the charm.

And you know what?
We encountered a happy surprise, a perfect reminder that when
you listen to outside negative voices instead of your own curious heart,
it's a dumb dumb dumb thing to do.
Hesitation and doubt are nothing but spoilers, eating opportunity alive
and diminishing the chance to find magic.
Now I know what all the fuss is about -- and it's worth the gamble.
Gorgeous Gordes is a bright spot on anyone's map and our little
re-negotiated side-trip was heaven sent.

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There are two big things to remember when planning a visit to Gordes.

Unlike most scenic villages, the best part is actually the approach.
  Just be prepared for a few high pitched screams
as your vehicle makes its way up the hill. 
The scene is so stunningly picture perfect, you won't be able to stop oohing
and ahhing until the car comes to a complete stop once inside the village.
  If you want to experience that screeching-howling-magnificent sight again,
you'll need to walk back down hill (at your own peril) to the edge where you caught that first dramatic glimpse of gorgeous Gordes clinging to its rocky plateau.

The crowds are over-stated --- or at least they weren't bad the day we visited,
a bright beautiful morning in late May.
Either way, ignore the negative voices and raise your expectations. 
Come early and enjoy.

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Gordes is not typical in its beauty but has all the village accessories
we've come to expect -- a fortified castle, a couple of art museums, a
 centuries old church, as well as a nice mix of galleries, boutiques and restaurants. 
But what stands out most are the steeply cobbled streets filled with
pretty stone buildings and terracotta roofs.
  Its harmony can only be described as exceptional.
  Nothing looks shabby or ramshackle but rather
respectfully healthy in its very old age.

We enjoyed the spectacle of a small wedding party -- and they, in turn,
didn't seem to mind strangers snapping photos of their happy day. 
It felt like a movie set -- which in reality, is not far from the truth.
Films such as Ridley Scott's "A Good Year" used the village square and its
pretty fountain front and center in the 2006 romantic comedy.
  Fiery Russell Crowe and radiant Marion Cotillard's star power always shine
bright -- but in luminous Gordes, their light seemed to burn even brighter.

Gordes, after all, is dressed for success.
  Surrounded by stone farmhouses, olive, poplar and almond trees,
this is truly a land of milk and honey -- and quite naturally,
honey -- not to mention wine -- is in abundance. 
Arguably one of the most photographed fields of lavender is just a
few miles down the road at Senaque Abbey.  

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The influence of the tourist trade -- and for that matter, English speakers -- cannot
be denied, yet the very typical assortment of pottery, handicrafts and
  up-market clothing doesn't annoy like it does in other popular places.
  If it starts to get on your nerves, simply walk a few steps further
and bask in the panorama below.

This is, after all, an artist's city where famous luminaries such as Marc Chagall,
op artist Victor Vasarley and photo magician Willi Ronis
once gave birth to their miracles.
  No doubt inspired by the rugged beauty of the village, these creative
geniuses -- and many others -- sought refuge in the tiny but stimulating town.

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Yes, it seems that everything's coming up roses for Gordes, especially since
Peter Mayle published his epic "A Year in Provence", the hugely popular "bible"
of life as it should be lived -- starring, you guessed it, our town Gordes
and its nearby neighbor, Ménerbes.

But the so-called "Acropolis of the Luberon" wasn't always dripping in good fortune.  During one of the more horrific moments of WWII, Gordes suffered
their own mean campaign of shock and awe.

  Many local residents were slaughtered by the Nazis in retribution
for brave aid extended to a local arm of The Resistance. 
The Axis power burned a dozen historical buildings to the
ground, including the village's centuries old archives. 

For their suffering and bravery, Gordes received the Croix de Guerre,
France's highest military decoration honoring those
who fought for French liberty during WWII.

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The amazing Village des Bories is just down the road, estimated to be 3,000 years old!
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My humble advice -- Don't let over-sized preconceived notions get in your way.
  If you're the least bit curious, strike a happy medium and take a look.
You'll never know if you don't try.
After all, I almost scratched Gordes off my list -- and rather than it being a
travel headache, it was a stroke of luck and a happy introduction to the Luberon.

Put on your thinking cap and connect the dots -- it's the road map to magic. 
Whether you've hit a travel slump or a navigational headache, loosening the
knots in your head will open up your heart to some sensational snooping.
  Like Gordes, that famously over-wrought-over-hyped-over-promoted
(which must translate to "very worthwhile -- shhh -- keep it a secret")
village that's perched like a queen over the gloriously gorgeous
  Luberon panorama, deep in the heart of Provence.

Art of the Deal?
That's so you.
Happy hunting!

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0 Comments

To Eric, With Love

1/8/2016

3 Comments

 
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There's nothing I enjoy more than talking about Paris. 
I can yammer on and on about my Paris fixation for hours.
Adventures in the City of Light, both real and imagined, are my fool's paradise
and I'm always thrilled when someone -- anyone -- listens. 
This blog is clearly the result of all that pent up Paris passion.

But when someone asks me to help plan a 7-day trip -- PANIC sets in.
Just 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 days for Paris??
    And when that someone is my favorite big brother --- well, I realize
this is serious stuff -- and I have to make it good.
It's an especially big challenge because though he and his wife have been to
Paris several times, it will be a first time visit for the friends they're traveling with. 
  So logically, for the Paris virgins, we need to include all the big time fan
favorites and still find time to sneak in some new off-the-cuff fun
for the more seasoned Paris travelers.

It may be true that God made the earth in just six days but let's be real,
this is Paris and we need many more hours to do her justice.

Big expectations.  That's my middle name.


"If you tell people where to go, but not how to get there,
you'll be amazed at the results."

George S. Patton

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Dear Brother,
Please make Place des Vosges your very first stop.
  Yes, that's as good a place to start as any, a lovely
17th century masterpiece of Paris perfection. 
Insanely elegant yet welcoming to even the most frugal traveler,
Place des Vosges will launch you right into the heart of what makes Paris
so dreamy, a subtle reminder that your world has a new and different accent.

Symmetrical red-brick mansions rise above blocks of stone arcades
  sheltering tempting cafes, la-di-dah boutiques and irresistible antique shops.
  The gardens are a paradise of diversity -- easy-going grandmas,
well-heeled businessmen & women, back-packing teenagers
and carefree kids all agree this is the place to be.

  It's a perfect spot to collect your thoughts after the long slog of travel.
  Just sit and lose yourself in the genteel surroundings. 
I can "see" you now -- smiling, absorbing this intimate Paris panorama.
Your mind and your heart will thank you.
You can be as flexible as you like -- stop in to see Victor Hugo's
museum-mansion or just spread out on the green grass à la Parisienne.

It's a good start to the best week of your life.

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  Since it's your first day, you'll probably be a bit jet-lagged so let's keep it simple.
  If it's a Sunday, walk straight to the Bastille market to experience
the miracle of french food and food lovers.
  Enjoy every little detail and feel your energy return as you
sniff and swoon in front of the cheese stalls.
  Gratefully accept all samples on offer and remind your friends
this is just a first taste of what's to come.

If it's not Sunday, I think I'd go to the Musée Carnavalet just
down the street, a perfect primer on the history of Paris. 
Art and architecture are a sure immersion into the heartbeat of the city
and you can't beat the price --  it's free.
  Don't miss anything unless your tummy starts to rumble.

  All that money we've already saved, it's time for a late lunch.
  Something that will warm up your taste buds for a week in Paris.
  How about Auberge des Pyrénees Cévénnes -- homemade terrines & cassoulet.
Or spend a bit more and go to a classic bistro like Benoit or Astier?
  Make it at least three courses and don't forget the wine.

Lunch, naturally, will be long, so afterwards, head straight to
Ile St. Louis for a chance to absorb the very heart of Paris.
Here, the choices are endless...
This island is only a few blocks long and two blocks wide but its personality is huge.
  If you haven't eaten too much at lunch, stop at the little Berthillon window for a scoop or three of the most out-of-this-world flavors you've ever put in your mouth.
Look at all the details of each beautiful mansion, do a little window-shopping
and daydream about what it was like 100 - 200 - 300 years ago.
  Pause to watch the entertainment on the bridge as you
head toward the other island, the famous Ile de la Cite.
 
If the sun is shining, skip Notre Dame (for now) and walk
a few more blocks to see the magnificent Saint-Chapelle. 
When the sunlight burns through its exquisitely colored stained glass windows,
you'll feel as if you've been transported into another cosmos --
and in reality, you have.
  This is medieval Paris at its very best.

Afterwards, take a short walk, admiring the view of the Seine,
La Conciergerie and your first look across the water to the Left Bank.
In mere minutes you'll arrive at one of the most romantic
spots in Paris -- Place Dauphine.
Kiss your wife, hug your friends and consider a little aperitif
at one of the sweet cafes that surround the perfect little square.
From here, you can decide what to do this evening ......

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Uh oh, I just realized we've already "used up" one day of your
 seven day adventure and there is so much more I want you to see. 

  How can I better help you organize a plan?

Let's try a short list to help organize your trip -- looking at categories,
including a few of my very favorites in each:

 PARKS
 Luxembourg Gardens, Parc Buttes-Chaumont, Parc Monceau,
Parc Belleville -- oh no, already off to a bad start -- that's about three too many...

 CHURCHES
 Saint-Chapelle, Notre-Dame, Saint-Etienne-du-Mont,
St-Eustache, St-Denis -- definitely not going according to plan....

LANDMARKS
 Arc de Triomphe, Opera Garnier, Place de la Concorde,
Napoleon's Tomb, Pantheon, Eiffel Tower -- dammit, I could go on & on....
 
CEMETERIES
 Pere Lachaise -- if you have time
for just one memorial in Paris, make it this one.

MARKETS
- Bastille, Raspail, market streets like rue Daguerre, Mouffetard
 Montorgeuil and Cler -- life is too short for just one market ....

SHOPS
- La Grande Epicurie (more food), Deyrolle, Galeries Lafayette,
window shopping on rue Saint-Honoré or Place Vendome, covered
passages like Galerie Vivienne or Jouffroy, the flea markets --
lots of €, payback for all the times you cheated at Chinese checkers....

NEIGHBORHOODS
- The Marais, Canal St. Martin, Belleville,
St. Germain-des-Pres, Montparnasse, Latin Quarter -- sheesh....

MUSEUMS
 - The Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, The Rodin, Petit Palais,
Musée d'Art Moderne, Jacquemart André.... I'm barely
getting started -- can't narrow it down, need help .....


BOULANGERIE/PATISSERIE
Poilâne, Eric Kayser, Gérard Mulot, Julien,
Dalloyau, Pierre Hermé, Patisserie des Reves....
life is short, try one of each....

CANDY
Le Bonbon au Palais, A l'Etoile d'Or, A la Mère de Famille...
life is short, try one of each....

CHOCOLATE
Jacques Genin, Pralus, Michel Chaudun ....ditto

MUSIC
Duc des Lombards (jazz), Club Rayé (piano bar), cathedrals (such as Saint-Sulpice)....

BISTROTS, BRASSERIES, CAFES
Oh heavens, this could take forever.....


"We are all of us stars, and we deserve to twinkle."

Marilyn Monroe

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Well, that was an exercise in futility.
  The list is way too long for just seven days and at the same time,
I've cheated you out of some of my absolute favorites. 

Nobody likes things crammed down their throat. 
There has to be a way to see more without going crazy.
 
Consider this:
 
Assign each day a specific historical era, and choose according to the timeline:

Sunday: The Renaissance --  starting with The Cluny Museum
with its gorgeous Lady & the Unicorn Tapestry

Monday: The Enlightenment -- The Catacombs

Tuesday: Napoleon's Reign -- Malmaison, his gorgeous estate outside Paris

Wednesday: Baron Haussmann Day -- Sewer Tour or Place de l'Etoile

Thursday: The Belle Epoque -- The Grand Palais and #29 Avenue Rapp

Friday: Roman Paris -- The Arenes de Lutece

Saturday: Modern Paris -- Pompidou Center and La Defense

And of course we need an 8-day week for The Sun King -- Versailles


Oh no, I just made it worse -- too many choices, too many decisions...

There is just too much to love...

"Eight days a week is not enough to show I care."
John Lennon & Paul McCartney

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I just realized, I'm not following my own advice.
  Paris is not some laundry list of places to see,
it's a fountain of feelings and magical experiences.
  Any good itinerary allows you to:
GET LOST
FEEL NOSTALGIC
LOOK AT ART YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
  PEE IN A TURKISH TOILET*
*only recommended for the men in your party

  Imagination, big brother -- we grew up on that.
  Think about it, many of the world's best discoveries
were made by chance instead of by design.
  Penicillin, Velcro, Super Glue -- success stories unearthed by accident.
I think the best Paris adventures just sort of happen like that.
Timing, luck, karma -- whatever you want to call it -- are your best friends.
Chance discoveries and memorable fun
happen as naturally as breathing in and out -- after all, it's Paris!

Remember, The City of Light isn't the outline you study
on your tourist map of Central Paris.
  It's a living city of real people and it's the Parisians who make it what it is today. 
So engage with them.
  Revel in real conversation and make a new friend.

Enjoy the little things.
Splurge on a platter of royal fruits de mer.
  Drink a cup of coffee where Thomas Jefferson & Ben Franklin drank theirs*.
  Dab on a bit of Guerlain perfume or get a haircut.
  These are the things you'll remember the most about your trip.

*Le Procope


  Eat too much candy and get silly on Absinthe.
  Better yet, have a drink at Harry's Bar where it's likely
our very own dad enjoyed a few stiff drinks just after the war.
  Watch an episode of Law & Order dubbed in French.
  Lenny never sounded so elegant.

Embrace your two loves:
Magic -- Musée de la Magie may have a trick or two to amaze even you.
Music -- Search out some of your favorite New Orleans style
 melodies, perhaps at Autour du Midi just behind the Moulin Rouge.

  Look on the Wall of Names for our mother's family at the
Memorial de la Shoah and contemplate just how lucky we are.
  Negotiate a smile from a stranger.

In other words, follow your bliss.
  That's the real Paris.

Dear Eric,
I'll be with you every step of the way.
I know you'll have the best time!
With love,
Michelle

P.S.  Next time, don't even think about going without me!

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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