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Two Scoops and a Chateau

2/29/2016

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Doesn't it always seem, it's the little things that matter most.
  And when you travel, you can multiply that factor tenfold.
  Looking back to the very first time we dared to depart Paris,
it was those little things -- minor coincidences -- that added
up to a treasure chest of fabulous experiences.

One of our "pick" destinations was the Loire Valley, better known as chateau country. Castles! Gardens! Kings, Queens & Fairy Tales! 
I couldn't wait to live out my princess fantasies.

We chose Amboise as home base because it seemed centrally located
and came highly recommended by the Rick Steves travel "bible"
I religiously followed when we initiated our adventures.
  It was a great choice and we immediately set out to conquer the town.

What followed were a series of happy "accidents" that all worked
in our favor, little episodes that made a difference in our approach to travel,
our very thoughts about wandering through life's luckiest moments.
  Details do make a difference -- even if they're minor happenstance.
  And in the end, they keep us motivated to come back and start all over again.

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This chateau is easy to love.
  Prominently perched above the town, Chateau d'Amboise
is not just some hulking stack of stones.
  The UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts the features, magic and history
that will make anyone who still believes in fairy tales
take an emotional leap off its royal ramparts.

  From the moment you climb the wide winding walkway that leads
to the castle -- the same passage gallant men on horseback traversed
in order to serve the royal landlords -- you get that curious feeling
that life is just one big memory bank and perhaps -- just
perhaps -- you, too, once rode in on a fierce steed. 

The chateau's long history features an impressive number of kings
as well as a lovely roster of cunning and competent female residents and visitors.
Chateau d'Amboise once embraced Joan of Arc, Catherine de Medici,
Mary Stewart, Queen of Scots, not to mention the most famous painted lady
in the world -- La Jaconde, better known as the Mona Lisa.
 
Amboise's kings left their mark here, too, the most tragic
of whom (Charles VII) died at the young age of 28 when he hit his head
on a lintel above a door as he walked the hallowed halls of the castle.

  But it was Francois I who made possibly the biggest mark on this chateau
 as he maneuvered to bring the Italian Renaissance to France.
Long time standard bearer of the arts, it was Francois who imagined and
finagled his will to make France the world's foremost art collector.
  He supported artists, writers and poets while championing big projects
(both building and renovation) transforming royal properties including
Amboise, Chambord, Blois, St-Germain-en-Laye, Fontainebleau
and even the royal Paris residence we now call The Louvre.

  Most brilliantly, he courted Leonardo da Vinci from the artistic heart of Italy
to the court at Amboise, bringing the caché of the Italian Renaissance
along with the prestige (as well as some very important paintings)
of seducing Italy's foremost artist-in-chief.
The king was a kingmaker.
His da Vinci deal is akin to a professional sports agent
negotiating the number one draft pick.

"Show! Me! The Money!"
from "Jerry Maguire"

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Chateau d'Amboise revealed its magic to us in unexpected ways.
As I've said before, serendipity strikes when you least expect it.

  As we neared the end of our castle tour (we had already witnessed a
double-rainbow as we stood on the ramparts of the chateau), the
 guide walked us back through a monumental room we had already toured.
  But this time, the grand chamber was in full dress -- with a dining table
decked out in the finest table settings I've ever seen -- stunning silver,
 mountains of shining goblets, exquisite china and linens.
  A fire roared --- and I do mean roared (it was summer so the room
was chili-pepper-hot) provoking us to imagine what life at court was like
during Francois' rambunctious years on the throne. 
We could almost "see" the court as they gussied up for a night of frivolity
and delighted at thoughts of masquerade balls and jousting tournaments.... 

In fact, the chateau was preparing for a private event and though we weren't
invited, the sneak peek was well worth the price of admission.
  As we left the premises, we witnessed a lively entourage
of beautiful people as they entered the palace.
We speculated it was an Italian fashion show -- they all looked
runway ready -- but no one ever offered a clue.

  Our long, leisurely and delicious bistro dinner was celebrated at the foot
of the chateau so quite naturally our conversation turned into a guessing game.
Wondering what the castle guests were being served -- perhaps one of the local specialties like pork rillettes or the delicate fresh catch of the day from the nearby River Loire --- paired with a local Vouvray (the vineyards are just down the road)
or perhaps a sparkling Cremant de Loire ......
We were feeling pretty imperial ourselves as we tasted and sipped our way
through our very first Loire dining experience. 
It was delightful -- but the most unforgettable part was still to come.

Just as we tucked ourselves into bed, Lady Luck edged out The Sand Man.
  To our surprise, just outside our floor-to-ceiling window
(our hotel was directly opposite the chateau),
a stream of fireworks lit up the night sky. 
Needless to say, we opened the curtains and threw out the sash. 
Trust me, there is nothing quite like lying in bed, watching the night sky
explode with color, feeling like you're starring in your very own romance novel.
 Fairy tales do come true.


"What people call serendipity sometimes is just having your eyes open."
Jose Manuel Barroso

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In exchange for his creative genius, Leonardo da Vinci negotiated a
spectacular financial package from his royal benefactor.
  The Italian immigrant's path to France was rewarded with a top-drawer
manor house worthy of his remarkable talent. 

Chateau Le Clos Lucé is not only beautiful, it's a thoughtful look
into the artist's fertile mind.
  The king's bequest to Leo is now gifted to us, a wonderful look
into the ingenious mind of the gifted legend.
  Scattered throughout the house and grounds are drawings and
recreations of da Vinci's futuristic mind -- inventions perhaps
as monumental as his legendary paintings.

The king loved the artist and carefully tended to his needs.
  Leonardo da Vinci lived only three years in Amboise,
allegedly dying in the king's arms.
  You can find his burial marker at the Chapelle St-Hubert at the royal chateau
though you now need to travel to Paris to locate his pièce de résistance,
lovely Mona Lisa, now carefully "hidden" behind millions of
camera flashing tourists in The Louvre.

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Amboise is much more than just a town with an important chateau.
  Pretty streets, timbered houses, and enticing shops are scattered throughout
the town center, capped off by a very fine medieval belfry.
  We walked further on, stopping to admire re-purposed troglodyte homes
built into the surrounding limestone cliffs, happily enthralled by pleasant
views of the Loire River and flowering countryside.

True, Amboise was built for the crowned heads of state -- but there's
something about it that feels personal. 
Pastry shops, mouth-watering chocolate, crepes, cheese
and charcuterie tempted us left and right. 
We succumbed to just about everything, not bothering to waste
one moment worrying about calories and cholesterol.
  Having read that Mick Jagger owns a nearby chateau, we felt
the quiet little town had a certain cool edge about it.
  We were, after all, experiencing our own renaissance, in the very spot where Francois Premier gave birth to a culture of art, literature and science in France,
a celebration that has been well tended for centuries.

In recognition of the great king's good works, there's nothing quite like the
taste of ice cream to cap off a triumph of artistic enlightenment.
  And it was here where we learned a great lesson of travel.
  We asked for two scoops (in poorly accented french) while
flashing two fingers in the air, in the American manner. 
In Europe, one counts starting with the thumb, then the
index finger makes two and so on. 
So the server assumed we were asking for three scoops.

In service of our country and to keep the peace, we gallantly ate
the yummy trilogy, agreeing that in rare cases like this, ignorance is bliss.

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As we sadly said au revoir to lovely Amboise, I took one last look at the chateau.
  Utterly imposing, the imperial palace looms large over the town and yet during 
our visit, I learned that what remains is just a FRACTION of its original size.

  Today's Chateau d'Amboise enjoys just one fifth the dimensions it once occupied,
a fact that will blow your mind when you marvel at its great expanse.
  Thinking of the downgrade on its price-per-square-foot on today's market, contemplating lost royal apartments, missing tapestries, furniture
and priceless art lost over the centuries.....
MORE ICE CREAM, PLEASE!

After all, it's the little things that count.

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Filthy Rich in Paris

2/21/2016

2 Comments

 
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I'm pretty sure it's a plot. 
The wizards of Wall Street are hell-bent to torpedo my travel plans.
  The market goes up, the market goes down -- and in the meantime,
we're stuck biting our nails, trying to do "the right thing" -- spend
a little less and hope for a bounce back.

But wait a minute.
  Financial security, economic freedom, a fiscally sound future -- blah, blah, blah...  While I'm on board with the big picture,
there's no convincing me to blow up the travel season.
  There are riches to be found, well beyond a stock portfolio -- and
I put travel experiences at the very top.

   You've heard it said before, travel is the only money
you spend that makes you richer.
  And it's true.

My husband is the logical voice in all of this.
  While he agonizes over ominous threats to our financial security and
red flags my over-zealous planning, I remind him of the abundant rewards
that await us in Paris -- Art, History, Baguettes, Bare Breasts .....
Say whatever you think will clinch the deal....

"An investment in knowledge pays the best interest."
Ben Franklin

Let's really think about this.
A year without travel feels like a commitment to eternal damnation. 
And that's for dummies.
Self-imposed boundaries can cloud your thoughts.
Ignite your imagination and realize that with a few
 smart refinements, you can get from point A to point B.
The time is right for a coup.
  And I'll put my money on Paris.
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Repeat after me.
We deserve it!  Yes, we do.
And there are ways to beat the financial flu.

You don't even need to revert to the good-old-bad-old college days
of ramen noodles and peanut butter -- well, probably not.
  Although, truth be known, I'd do about anything to "save" Paris.

"Money often costs too much."
Ralph Waldo Emerson

I wasn't born with a silver spoon in my mouth -- and I've not
come across a genie in a bottle (yet)-- but I dream rich.
  Not as in dollars rich -- I'd happily swap the $$ for a few priceless adventures.
  And in France, my cup runneth over.
  And yes, though we need the greenbacks and a good exchange
rate to sweeten the pot, there is no reason to cast doubt -- Paris passion rules.


"Doubt kills more dreams than failure ever will."
Suzy Kassem, author & poet

Persistence is rewarded.
  Focus on the one thing you want -- be it a walk in the woods
of Fontainebleau Forest or a drink of champagne in
Champagne -- and focus on each precious detail.
Create the emotional tie.
  Keep going, one foot in front of the other.
You know what you have to do.
Now just jump in and don't look back.
Before long, you'll be drinking champagne on a beer budget,
filthy rich in adventures.

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If you know what you want, it's easier to go after it. 
There are dozens of ways to save money while we travel but I think
it's wise to get on the budget bandwagon before the trip.

  Focus on how to save money FOR travel.
  It's simply a matter of priorities.

- Do I really need a new designer handbag this year?
  Not likely.
- Can I cut back on concert tickets and high end cocktails?
  Definitely yes.
 -  Can I delay window washing and teeth cleaning?
Yes to one, no to the other.
  You be the judge.

Put your travel dreams at the front of the line.
Make a written commitment.

When planning your trip, start with a wish list.
You may not be able to do exactly as you like but once you
see some progress, you're halfway there.

Keep an open mind.
  Like to stay in one specific (pricey) Paris neighborhood?
  Take this opportunity to get to know a new one -- perhaps one at the other
end of town where rents are lower and food & drinks are a bargain. 

Whether you get your advice from websites like www.eurocheapo.com,
www.ricksteves.com, or a multitude of others, think big picture:
Tighten up and re-adjust where needed and most important,
be confident that ultimately this will be the best trip you've ever made.

And then, just roll with it!


Turn up the volume.
Let Steve Winwood's melody be your guide:


When life is too much, roll with it, baby
Don't stop and lose your touch, oh no, baby
Hard times knocking on your door
I'll tell them you ain't there no more
Get on through it, roll with it, baby
Luck'll come and then slip away,You've gotta move,
bring it back to stay
You just roll with it, baby
Come on and just roll with it, baby
You and me, roll with it, baby
Hang on and just roll with it, baby
The way that you love is good as money
I swear by stars above, sweet as honey
People think you're down and out
You show them what it's all about
You can make it, roll with it, baby
When this world turns its back on you
Hang in and do that sweet thing you do
You just roll with it, baby
You just roll with it, baby
Come on and just roll with it, baby
You and me, just roll with it, baby


Songwriters:
Steve Winwood, Will Jennings, Edwards Holland, Jr., Brian Holland, Lamont Herbert Dozier

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One more quick reminder. 

  My plans always include my beloved Paris -- but if your budget is extra tight,
there are about a million other sweet spots in France that will knock your socks off. 
A little less costly but no less fulfilling.
Works every time.

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What, me worry? 
Nah, it'll happen.
  I have the will.
I will find the way.
Travel first, save later.

Those Wall Street party-poopers can take
their prophecies of doom elsewhere.
They probably don't even use all their vacation time, the losers!
As for this traveler, I'm going to invest in me and
concentrate on getting to Paris.

The money to do it?
Fiddle-dee-dee.
  I'll think about that tomorrow.

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2 Comments

Big Shot in Paris

2/13/2016

2 Comments

 
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Big Shot:
 A person of consequence or prominence; a powerful, important person.

Big Shot in Paris:
An accomplished artist whose body of work is honored in multiple museums.

 Paris, home to some of the best and most acclaimed art in the world,
knows how to multiply and flaunt its loveliness.
  Piggybacking off the city's remarkable architecture and natural beauty,
Paris art museums make it their business to raise the capitol's beauty bar.
Those of us lucky enough to holiday chez Paris
are gifted a most generous opportunity.
  With a variety of art genres and universally treasured masterpieces spread
throughout the city, we find ourselves inspired every time we turn the corner.

I think it's fair to say at the center of that diverse world,
Impressionism stands tall. 
And in that revolutionary world of Impressionism,
Claude Monet soars front and center.
The big shot of Paris, Monet's brushstrokes can be seen all around the capital,
with permanent collections in not just one but four major museums.

  Well loved, much respected, Monsieur Monet's museums
 allow even the most casual visitor an opportunity
to get to know one of France's most prolific painters.
  Monet is the star attraction in two of them:
The Musée Marmottan-Monet and the
  Musée de l'Orangerie focus largely on Monet and his time.

Not to be outdone, the Petit Palais and the venerable Musée d'Orsay
feature many of Monet's canvases, offering recognition and insight
into the captivating genius behind this beloved french artist.
Remarkable stuff, important to a revolutionary art movement,
Monet and the museums where he now "resides" are a
perfect place to start your beautiful journey.

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It's hard to believe that Monet's loosely arranged pool of talented friends
once referred to themselves as The Anonymous Society of Painters.
   Growing into the biggest and most beloved art movement of the century,
the Impressionists -- as they are now known -- were once scorned.
Today they are virtual name brands, adored by millions of art devotees.
But back in the day -- around 1863 to 1883, the precocious painters had to
fight for their place in the hard-line traditional world of Parisian art. 

  Big name artists like Claude Monet, Camille Pissaro, Edgar Degas, and
Alfred Sisley bucked the system and won -- but it wasn't easy. 
Their casual style was criticized for looking messy and unfinished. 
Conservative academic painting was preeminent,
its influence single-minded and set in stone.

  But then came the progressive Impressionists, advancing vivid colors
and fast-paced brushstrokes, blazing the trail for a new modern age of art.
And quite naturally, Paris, being Paris, axis of fashion and the fashionable,
grew to accept -- then herald -- the radical new movement.

"Color is my day-long obsession, joy and torment."
Claude Monet

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Which ever of the four Monet-centric museums you choose,
you're in for a rare treat.
It's my opinion that Monet's work still looks modern
in relation to some of his other contemporaries.
  But don't just take my word for it, look at all the major art
centers in France -- places like Rouen, Nancy, Lille, Nantes and
others where fine arts collections always include the
transcendent work of the gifted painter.
 
Claude Monet's art offers a detour from real life.
  Whether you enjoy landscapes, portraits or his famously
systematic experiments to capture changing light and conditions,
you need not be an art connoisseur to appreciate his work.
  Bending all rules and standards of the day, Monet moved the art world
out of its gray rule-driven prison into a theater of the imagination
where attitude and being "in the moment" colored his world.

  Imagine this, when the Impressionists began painting "en plein air" --
painting outdoors in the natural light rather than in studio -- it was
considered a novel and somewhat bizarre approach.
Viewing Monet's cosmos is like sitting in your favorite garden -- meditating --
clearing your mind, feeling empowered as his rhythm and vision come to life.
  His fascination with getting the light "just right" propelled him to paint the
same subject over and over, capturing one particular moment in time.
  He produced series of canvases -- most famously, of course, the lily-pond
at Giverny -- but also took this approach when painting
the Cathedral of Rouen, Gare Saint-Lazare, and simple stacks of
hay -- attempting to illustrate that art -- like life -- is fleeting.
  Perhaps the notion of "living in the moment" came straight from his palette...

Fresh and exciting -- isn't that exactly what a true art lover is looking for? 
Throw the doors wide open to this energy and watch
your own appreciation of art explode.

"Subjecting color and lines in this way to the emotion he has felt
and seeks to express, the painter will do the work of a poet, a creator."
Paul Signac, Neo-Impressionist,
inspired by Monet's work

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If I had to choose just one Monet museum, I would make the journey
to the 16th arrondissement, home to the largest Monet collection in the world.

The Musée Marmottan-Monet resides in the neighborhood called Auteuil,
a stretch of real estate deemed wealthy, residential and chic.
  Hundreds of Monet masterpieces call this mansion-museum home,
beautifully displayed, presented with a real feeling of history. 
The house, originally a hunting lodge, was built for the Duke of Valmy,
one of Napoleon Bonaparte's personal heroes.
Luckily for us, it's perfectly positioned to avoid the crowds
typically encountered at more centrally located art galleries.

The Musée Marmottan-Monet may take a bit more effort to reach than other
well-located museums, but you'll be well rewarded for your effort. 
For one thing, Impression Sunrise -- the painting that started the
movement -- resides here, making it easy to follow Monet's
transition through various periods of his life's work.
  Featured, too, are some of his contemporaries including
Edouard Manet, Berthe Morisot and Renoir just to name a few. 

I'd be willing to wager you'll stay longer than you planned.
The nature scenes are particularly breathtaking.
Whether you lose yourself in the tulip fields of The Netherlands
or the poppy-fields of France, a trip to the Musée Marmottan-Monet
is as rejuvenating as a good spa massage.
  Monet watching makes for a splendid afternoon. 

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The Musée de l'Orangerie is likely the most popular
Monet-centric museum -- with good reason.
Brilliantly located just off Place de la Concorde and the Tuileries Gardens,
this Monet repository has an architectural bend that actually adds
to the already surreal beauty of the master's designs.

The museum is a perfect home for Monet's murals of Giverny.
With a 360° panoramic view bathed in light, you'll get a real
 sense of the gardens as they appeared in the changing light of day.
This may have been Monet's most important work -- personal, bathed
in emotion -- as it was his last chance to capture what he loved most.
The elderly Monet loved his gardens as much as he loved painting,
    proof you'll immediately recognize on the colorful canvas panels.

Of course nothing beats the real thing.
But we'll save Giverny for another day.

In the meanwhile, I'll take Paris.
I know next to nothing about making art.
  But I do love it madly, selfishly, completely. 
Color, light, shadow, nature and extraordinary talent
combine to produce a familiar sensation -- PASSION.

  Give in to your emotion and say hail to the chief.
Go ahead, give a big shout out to Claude Monet,
Big Shot in Paris.

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Musée Marmottan-Monet
2 rue Louis-Boilley, 16th Arrondissement

Musée de l'Orangerie
Jardins des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, 1st Arrondissement

Musée d'Orsay

1 rue de la Legion d'Honneur, 7th Arrondissement

Petit Palais
avenue Winston-Churchill, 8th Arrondissement

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2 Comments

The Crooked Smile of Troyes

2/5/2016

1 Comment

 
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Dreaming of France, we usually picture an idyllic beauty -- picturesque
cobbled streets dripping with flowers.... majestic cities glittering in unimaginable
splendor.... countless images of a country whose countenance never disappoints.

  But dig a little deeper and consider the alternate faces of France -- funny
little towns too often neglected by the average tourist -- those who
may be missing the good looks of her celebrity sisters but
 with perhaps a tad more imagination, texture and historical weight.
Why always search out the one-dimensional when you
can unlock the magic of a more intriguing thumbprint?

I'm thinking of Troyes, a lovable little town full of unconventional complexity.
Sure, her teeth are a little crooked and she could use a trip or two to the
beauty salon -- but oh boy, her half-timbered houses and historical
credentials more than make up for any gaps in her appearance.

Before the Revolution, Troyes (pronounced twah) was the capitol of Champagne.
Devoid of the champagne houses just down the road in effervescent Epernay,
(just 52 miles to the north), Troyes doesn't come up the least bit short.
  Immersing yourself in the Champagne region is always a good idea,
but in Troyes, you'll find reasons to drop anchor
that have little to do with the bubbly. 
 
Offering visitors a different persona than most mainstream travel darlings,
an overnight or two here offers a true trial of the often overused expression
"getting off the beaten path".

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Troyes' sassy character didn't just happen overnight. 
You can start with the Romans but I prefer to begin
with the era of the famous trade fairs.
Held here during the late 12th and 13th century,
these events were the medieval means to market cloth,
furs, leather, dye, spices and some agricultural products.
 
Each commodity had its own special day of commerce,
an influential badge of economic honor for the region.
In contrast to what we think of as market day today,
the fairs in Troyes (held twice a year) lasted just over a month each.
  In most cases, commerce was between merchants rather than
the typical merchant-customer arrangement that's currently in vogue.
Much of the stock came from Genoa and Florence, crossing
the Alps on the same roads the Romans built.
  It was a cultural event, an exchange of goods as well as ideas.

Troyes' mix of medieval alleys, Gothic churches,
Renaissance mansions and spooky wood carvings cook up
a whole passel of character in its compact center. 
The main bosom of the township is famous for being shaped like a champagne cork
and you'll be ready to make a toast or two after a day of unconventional discovery.

Troyes' exceptional charisma lies not in its looks but in its deep-seated fiber. 
Personally, I'd swap a bad complexion for a good soul any day of the week.
Case in point, Ruelle des Chats (Alley of the Cats) made me flip my lid.
 I freaked out over this skinny-minny passageway made up of dilapidated
structures barely held together by aging timber and suspicious looking
supports -- looking as if they were going to fall in at any moment.
Seemingly built for wenches and ruffians of the era,
it looks like the dream set of a high-strung mystery writer.
  But don't despair, the scariest thing I experienced was the sight of a neighborhood cat  jumping from one rooftop to the next in a brave show of architectural faith.

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The Middle Ages show up at every turn.
  From the flamboyant Gothic of the Cathédrale St. Pierre et St. Paul to the
splendidly Gothic rood screen of Église Ste-Madeleine, you'll witness
a fantastic array of stained glass windows, organs and gargoyles,
some even brazenly displaying the family jewels.
  Église Saint Nizier, Basilica St. Urbain, Église Saint-Jean-au-Marché
and others -- the numbers will startle you.

Don't miss the covered marché and be on the lookout
for Troyes' most famous culinary delicacy.
  Put the caution light on because it's the only food in France I personally
find scary -- and I'll famously eat just about anything.
Troyes' little andouillette, a renowned specialty made from pork intestines,
wine, onions and spices is a favorite in this land.
Famous foodies --  tough guys like Anthony Bourdain and
 Andrew Zimmern -- seem to enjoy it's -- uh -- interesting aroma
and -- um -- extraordinary flavor.

  But don't take my word for it, go for it.
  I've tried tripe three different times -- once in the form of an
andouillette -- always hoping to like it, to be cool -- but no, it's not for me. 
Bring mouthwash and don't despair,
 there's plenty of wonderful food in Troyes.
I recall a particularly memorable feast at a classic little restaurant
featuring some of the best vegetables I've ever tasted,
paired, quite naturally, with the most gorgeous local champagne.

There's a bit of Knights Templar history here, too, as well as a storied
  heritage of persecuted Jews and royal weddings, but Troyes' most
famous legacy is when Joan of Arc and the future Charles VII
stopped by on the way to his coronation in Reims.

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There are a number of good museums in Troyes, including an
engaging art installation gifted from a generous bequest
from the Lévy family of Lacoste fame.
Who knew pink alligator shirts could buy a Picasso?!
The Musée d'Art Moderne de Troyes offers a collection of 2,000+ works by
master artists such as Degas, Picasso, Courbet, Derain, Bonnard and Matisse.  
The palace-turned-art-museum has an impressive sculpture collection as well
 as inventive art deco glassworks by local talent Maurice Marinot.

Nearby, two museums, Musée de la Bonneterie and the
Museum of Tools & Craft (Maison de l'Outil) include hundreds of
tools used during the age of manual labor.
Knitting machines, power looms, and blacksmithing instruments pay
 respect to Troyes' long legacy of artisans in ancient trade enterprises.

But my favorite of all has to be the pharmacy museum,
the Apothecary of the Hotel-Dieu-le-Comte.
  An 18th century wood paneled pharmacy holds the mysteries of medieval medicine.  Who knew my back problems could be cured with a
mixture of ground dog turds and rose petals?
  And for more serious ailments, feudal pharmacists recommended
you boil and grind two fresh puppies, mix in a handful of worms, drink and enjoy! 
No wonder the popular sausages here make me a bit queasy.....

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History credits Troyes' 12th century poet Chrétien de Troyes
with creating the Arthurian legend in Europe.
  His words ring true still today.

"Love without fear and trepidation is fire without flame and heat,
day without sun, comb without honey, summer without flowers,
winter without frost, sky without moon, a book without letters."
English translation by D.D.R. Owen

I will add -- A trip to the Champagne region without a stop in Troyes
is much like starting a journey with your glass half empty.

Admittedly, Troyes is an alternate universe
in the vivid landscape of beautiful France.
  But it's a universe you'll be glad you met and after all,
isn't diversity one of the main reasons we travel?

  I dare you not to feel a combination of affection and amazement.
  Embrace the other side of France -- freckles and all.

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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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