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Vacation Nation

8/6/2014

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Wind down your crazy lifestyle in Beautiful Brittany.
Sometimes even a blog about All-Things-Paris needs to get out of town.

  It's time for the annual migration from Paris to another favorite French vacation destination. 

Where do Paris locals go?  The United States?  Morocco?  China?
Well, yes, some do travel overseas.  But in large part, French people remain in France.
  They know the options for a memorable vacation are heart-stopping.


I
t's no secret that France is considered a Vacation Nation.
Not just a destination for world travelers, but also the primary
landing pad of choice for its own populace.
  Over 80% of the French community remain in France for their vacation.
  With 31 days of mandatory paid vacation, the French are fans
of getaways that offer a variety of temptations.
My insider secret: When traveling, I look for something a French national might want to do.

France offers vacation destinations around every corner and over every hill of La Hexagon.

  Beach vacation?  Checkmate, opportunities overflow - the  Atlantic,
  the Mediterranean, multiple island adventures and more.

  Is cooking your interest? Or history?  You'll discover a 2-for-1 in Normandy - Susan Hermann Loomis for cooking school and Normandy Beaches for history.

  Fantasize about a mountain immersion?  You can't beat the Pyrenees and the Alps
but don't discount the Vosges range either.

  City breaks include Montpellier, Strasbourg, Toulouse, Lyon and Nantes just to name a few.
Dijon, Avignon, Rennes, Narbonne, and Lille are all great memory-makers.

  Or an all-eating vacay, now that's up my alley.  The Perigord region conquers all.  But then again, Basque cuisine is tip-top as well. Oh yeah, and Provence & Languedoc....  But don't stop there.  You'll find a special spot for whatever special interest stops your heart.


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It's well known that most Parisians can't wait to get out
of the big city in the summer.

Learn from the locals.  Take a train, plane or automobile and find a new favorite.
Grow your French Fantasy in new directions.


Most Frenchmen and women choose either July or August for their big vacances.
  The kids are out of school, the weather is good, and everything quiets down
(or shutters up) in Paris.  Whether they choose a glamorous hideaway or stick to
a camping budget, they tend to look for the simple pleasures -- eating, drinking,
enjoying the great outdoors or finding a favorite festival.
  We just witnessed the 101st Tour de France.
  Did you notice how many campers were out in full force?
The good things in life are celebrated by the carload.

 
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Vacation in France is an excuse to eat.  To eat well.  Imagine fresh oysters plucked off the coast of Brittany, their salty brine so full of fresh sea flavor, you eat until you burst.
Or how about a Charentais melon, bursting with a flavor so unconditionally
fresh, you'll vow never again to touch another grocery store replica.
While many bistros close for 4 or 5 weeks in Paris, the rest of the country seems
to offer extended hours and enhanced promotion during the peak vacation months.

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There's a history lesson on offer wherever you land on your French vacation.
  You'll see history buffs everywhere.
  French people are addicted to their own narrative, cultivating their
kids' education at every turn.  Museums, aquariums, forts, chateaux are all part of
the framework of their annual R and R. 
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Rennes is too much fun -- full of youthful energy and a fantastic market.
Islands.  I love just saying the word.  In France, islands are everywhere.  Check out the islands of Brittany for a change of pace. There are many to choose from including Belle Ile, Bréhat (my husband calls it Land of the Giants due to the massive size - a la Jack & the Beanstalk - of the plant life), and Les Sept-Iles, an incredible bird sanctuary, home to thousands of our
feathered friends including, much to my surprise, puffins.

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Gigantic Plant Life is GORGEOUS!
Today's photo-trip is to Brittany.  Notice the diversity.
  Brittany is not just about good looks.  There's zero chance for boredom with everything from pristine beaches and islands to impossibly unique menhirs and dolmens at Carnac (over 3,000 standing stones!) and religious chapels, abbeys and monasteries sprinkled throughout.  Impossibly delicious buckwheat galettes and towering shellfish platters. Boats, birds and fortresses will melt your heart and make sure you return again next year.

Think about planning your vacation in the manner of the Slow Travel movement
and spend some quality time here.  Save Provence for another day.

When you concentrate on one region at a time, you're much more likely to feel satisfied than driving all the way across France in pursuit of a lengthy list
designed to impress your neighbors but likely to make you feel tired and unfulfilled.

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Not any old crèpe, a galette is Brittany's buckwheat cousin.


Remember the State Fair?  No matter where you're from, you probably
have a childhood memory of funnel cakes, corn dogs, unconventional
but interesting fair fans, farm animals and carnival rides.
  The French enjoy festivals, too, where they're as varied and unforgettable as any you'll ever find.  Each festival has a theme and in the summer months you'll find everything to celebrate.  Champagne, jazz, gardens, garlic, onions, the list is long.  You'll find a festival somewhere in France celebrating just about everything.
  The French word for fun is amusement.
Makes sense.  Get Happy. 
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When you feel the weight of the world on your shoulders,
it's time to plan some quality time in France.
Unstructured time. Just let it happen.

  Paris is the #1 destination and as delightful as anything.
  Except when it isn't.

Just like a Parisian, you'll know when.  Traffic, smog, busy people can overwhelm.
  Why not try something different?  Take a breather, simmer down, find yourself.
The French countryside delivers.
  You'll feel like a better person in BEAUTIFUL FRANCE.


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Puffins in France? Oui, bien sûr!
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Lafayette and The Americans

7/28/2014

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You may wonder why a village in Brittany is the setting for a story about Lafayette (as he is known in America).  This is the Saint-Goustan quarter of Auray, a beautiful town situated on the Auray River, far from the action of the Revolutionary War.  It's unlikely that Major General Lafayette ever visited but he was the brains and the name behind the landing of
a very famous American on these shores.

Saint-Goustan welcomed American founding father Benjamin Franklin as he arrived to ask for support for the New World's fight against the tyranny of the British.  It was December of 1776 when Franklin disembarked on the banks of the river town.  Lafayette was instrumental in pushing for this support from the crown (King Louis XVI) of France.  He used every bit of his own influence to beg for cash, arms and bodies to help America win her fight.

It seems like every other business in this town is named after the famous American.  It's particularly perplexing that American visitors are more likely to find their former foe, the British who seem to favor this part of France, than their own American counterparts at this moving historical site.  You'll rub your eyes as you see the name Benjamin Franklin on practically every corner of the village.  The large and inviting cobbled square is a wonderful place to relax and contemplate the long-lasting friendship of France with the U.S.A.
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Known in France as the Marquis de La Fayette (note the separation of La & Fayette), Gilbert du Motier was an aristocrat who hailed from the Auvergne region.
  Born to a wealthy and titled French family, he was more interested in the fresh ideals of American independence from the British than he was
in his own birth country's causes.  Joining the American Revolution at the age of 19,
he served at his own expense, including buying the very ship that brought him
(and many other Frenchmen) to our shores.

  During America's Revolutionary War, he become the right hand of another American hero, General George Washington.  He distinguished himself at the Battle of Brandywine where he fought alongside General Washington (and was promoted to Major General) and at the Siege of Yorktown where he battled it out with Cornwallis.

Lafayette was enamored with the whole idea of America's independence and democracy.
  "The Hero of Two Worlds" brought these principles back to France to help influence their transition from the reign of kings.  He wrote a large portion of France's Declaration of the Rights of Man & of the Citizen with the help of his good friend and ally, Thomas Jefferson.


Sadly, Lafayette found himself in dire straits during the French Revolution where he spent more than 5 years in prison during their Reign of Terror.  Napoleon Bonaparte stepped up to release and recognize the imprisoned frenchman so he could continue good works to aid mankind. 
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Benjamin Franklin at Court in France
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Both Presidents held Lafayette in High Regard
PictureAuray is so beautiful, it may hurt your eyes!
Lafayette was an abolitionist, arguing to end the slave trade in both America and France.  He urged George Washington to abolish the practice and establish former slaves
as tenant farmers.

General Lafayette paid homage to his commander, the 1st American president,
by naming his son after him - George Washington de La Fayette.  Many towns in the U.S. have paid their respects to the French commander by naming towns,
streets and squares after him.

He received an honorary degree from Harvard as well as full American citizenship.

Buried in Paris, Lafayette is interred in a small cemetery in the 12th arrondissement.  Picpus Cemetery is better known as the resting place of 16 Carmelite nuns who went singing to their deaths in the murderous summer of 1794.  Some 1300 people are buried in a mass grave at Picpus, all of them decapitated during the reign of terror.  The soil on and around the general's grave was taken from Bunker Hill.
  He rests in peace, forever a friend to America and a reminder of the ties that bind France and the U.S.A.

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Celebrating American independence, immortalized at Galerie David d'Angers in the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Angers.
The man who wanted France to follow America's example was given full funeral honors by American President Andrew Jackson.  Flags were flown at half-mast for 35 days and many
U.S. citizens wore black in his honor for a full month just as they did when they honored both President Washington and President John Adams.

Lafayette, George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson
are forever our honored heroes in the fight for independence.
  So, too, should we pay our respects to the history that took place
in the little French village of Auray.
Make sure to stop at the Saint-Goustan quarter on your next trip to France and think of a
brave American and a brave Frenchman who conspired to win support for the cause of
liberty in the New World.


Merci, General Lafayette, for your help in securing our freedom.
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Life on Rue Daguerre

7/23/2014

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This is What I Crave When I'm Strolling the Streets of Paris
Life on rue Daguerre is as authentic and purely Parisian as you'll find anywhere in the city.
  This is not opulent Paris or even majestic Paris.  It's ordinary -- and that's a good thing.
  If you're looking for a slice-of-life neighborhood, this community is your place. 
Located in the 14th arrondissement, the street is steps away from Denfert Rochereau,
a great stop that offers service on both the Metro and the RER
(with quick access to Roissy-Charles DeGaulle Airport).
It's a destination I always return to, continually finding new surprises that delight.
With each and every visit, it always manages to tug at my heart strings.
  Isn't that why we come back to Paris again and again?


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I Dream of Cheese
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Two destinations of particular interest await you on rue Daguerre.

Maison Péret, sometimes called Le Rallye Péret, is a brasserie located in the middle of this hustle-bustle market street.  It's open 7 days a week, convenient to both locals and travelers, worthy of a special trip to this neighborhood. I never miss the heavenly experience of dining
al fresco on their patio where I can enjoy the engaging commotion of the shopping street.
Feasting on a simple but delightful mix of salad greens, the plate showboats three different cheeses that crown grilled Poilâne bread (the blue is my favorite).  Paired with a delightful glass of the grape from their wine shop located adjacent to the restaurant, Maison Péret is exactly what you crave in Paris.  Bonus: Berthillon ice cream is on offer for dessert.
  Family friendly, it's one of those dining experiences that isn't hot or trendy, just good.
  Four generations of the Péret family have been working hard at their craft since 1919.
It's a great chance to experience an authentic bite of Paris.
  Bravo Family Péret!

Speaking of cheese, historic fromage purveyor Androuet has opened a boutique on rue Daguerre.  Think historic, artisnal, delightful.  Camembert, Brie de Melun, Ossau Iraty, Cantal, Comté, Roquefort, blue d'Auvergne and many more favorites can be discovered at this
tiny shop.  The lines are sometimes long but it's worth the wait.  This is not grocery store cheese.  It's the real deal and the staff is both knowledgeable and dedicated to getting it right.

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Rue Daguerre is named after Louis Daguerre, the so-called "Father of Photography."
He invented the Daguerreotype process of photography, well known in American as the process used by Matthew Brady to shoot those great American portraits of the day that
helped document the time of the Civil War.

This photo, taken in Paris, was captured some time around 1938.  It's not that different from the Polaroids taken in my childhood.  Isn't it hard to imagine life before still pictures?

Monsieur Daguerre was gifted.  He was well known, too, as an artist and theatre designer.
  But I like him best because of the little street in Paris that he inspired.  A street where you can find charcuterie, steaming paella, fresh figs and cherries, designer chocolate and much more. 

It's a neighborhood to remember.
Please, if you haven't already discovered the charms of rue Daguerre, add it to your next adventure in Paris.

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Fresher than Fresh Vegetables Decorate Rue Daguerre
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Grateful for Graffiti

7/9/2014

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ART or Urban Blight?
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He Knows Where to Find the Real Paris
Walking down the rue du Rivoli one day, I spotted this crazy looking art gallery promotion.  Inspirational stuff!

We expect to see the greatest hits of world art in Paris and of course we find that left and right.

But  don't you love stumbling on your own great art discovery?

Paris is surprising.  It's whimsical.  It's sometimes even silly.

And that's what we love best.
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Paris graffiti, I'm grateful for you. Urban blight or street art?  It's Paris, the city where debate over art (or just about anything) reigns supreme.

Whether in the form of playfully painted urban expressionism or carefully crafted gallery art that's a bit "out there", I believe there's a place for all kinds of street art in today's modern city.

Paris is no museum city.  It's expressive, sometimes even outlandish and always forward thinking. 


In the words of Auguste Rodin: 
"The main thing is to be moved, to hope, to tremble, to live."


RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!

Check out the hip jeunes filles to the right.  Are they running to or from the audacious Pompidou Center?

"Art is meant to disturb.  Science reassures." said french painter Georges Braque.  I like that thought.


What are your thoughts?
Art or vandalism?
Appealing or pointless? 
Hilarious or tragic?



Either way, whatever your opinion, in Paris you'll see art.  Lots of art.  And it sure beats staring at your computer screen all day long.  Give it a chance.  Embrace the happy.

Think about it.  Really, really look.
Take your time.

Get out and see it.
Feel it.
Change your outlook.
It will talk to you.
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Calling All Art Critics!
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Montparnasse and a Horse of a Different Color

6/21/2014

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When you think of Montparnasse, you probably think of Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald.  Or Josephine Baker and Kiki de Montparnasse.  And Lenin and Trotsky.  Or perhaps Picasso, Man Ray and Modigliani come to mind. Whew, what an extraordinary quartier!  Sure, they're all famous in their own right and each individual deservedly has a story.

But have you heard of Antoine Bourdelle?  This amazing artist has his own museum and street right in the heart of artsy Montparnasse.  The Musée Bourdelle is a perfect little spot to spend an hour or two on your next trip to Paris.  As an assistant to the great Auguste Rodin, he moved on to become a teacher at the famous L'Academie de la Grande Chaumiere.  His name and work now grace a memorable little museum that boasts a gorgeous garden, a fine gallery and his actual artist studio.  Bourdelle's sculpture of a dying centaur is provoking as is his take on Madonna and Child.

Peek through the museum gates to see his grand horse bronze (think Greek mythology, not Kentucky Derby).  The stunning stallion stands proudly amidst the greenery of the garden oasis.

And it's FREE!  Don't go on Monday, it's closed.  Bonus, I've read (but haven't yet tried) about a nearby restaurant, La Cabane a Huitres, (just a few doors down the street)and the reviews are good.  Any excuse to eat oysters from the Atlantic coast is good enough for me.

Location: 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle in the 15th arrondisement / Metro: Montparnasse-Bievenue or Falguière
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Don't miss a chance to see this little museum!
Off the beaten path and boasting no heavy tourist traffic, it's the perfect way to escape the expected.

If you're a lover of all things Rodin, give Monsieur Bourdelle a look.  These are the hidden gems that make Paris the city of pure pleasure.
Enjoy!
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    AUTHOR
    MICHELLE MOGGIO

    Thanks for visiting  my blog!

    I've been experiencing the joys of Paris since the ripe old age of eleven.
    As a big fan of duck fat, raw oysters and bad French movies, my long career in advertising helped pave the way for drinking at lunch. When not living la vie en rose, my husband Gary and I live in Brentwood, TN, where we stay busy planning our next travel adventure and offering unsolicited advice to our daughter.

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