the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places.
Those who don't believe in magic will never find it."
author Roald Dahl, 'The Minpins'
We tend to get all starry-eyed when we first encounter the capital of France
but this latest "must-see" really adds an exclamation point to our Paris experience.
The Musée des Arts Forain is a historical collection of funfair memorabilia -- interesting, true -- but one with one important difference.
Like most museum experiences, we get to see really great stuff,
but here, in the magical kingdom of Les Pavillons de Bercy,
we're allowed to TOUCH and EXPERIENCE the spectacle.
From the moment you enter its chandelier hung garden -- under the magical
watch of a flying unicorn -- you will be transported into a world of imagination
chock-full of inspirational genius dating from 1850 to 1950.
If you think you know Paris, hold on tight because perception and reality
become a blur in the enchanted world of the Fairground Art Museum.
This was a key film location for Woody Allen's "Midnight in Paris".
Gil, Adriana, F. Scott & Zelda, even the great Hemingway made us smile
in between dizzying shots of carousels and carnival stalls.
Allen's portrayal of human yearning was spot on in this world of whimsical curiosities and fanciful pleasures of benevolent mankind.
Much like Gil, you'll be transported to a different time and place.
Just outside the cobblestone terraces of Bercy Village, the Musée des Arts Forains
is a destination for those young at heart, a theme park for both kids and
big kids (like me) who like to submerge themselves into life's little pleasures.
Antique merry-go-rounds and virtual operettas aren't your everyday experience
but then again, neither is Paris so they fit as nicely together as a good cassoulet.
Your heart will feel all's well with the world right down to your toes.
"Anything can happen if you let it."
Mary Poppins, magical nanny
gondolas, grand canal and a doge.
You won't know which way to turn when the opera begins,
its impressive gallery of masked singing automats serenading their rapt audience from gilded palazzo balconies.
You will be required to take a guided tour but have no worry for
this is decidedly not one of those old stuffy fact-driven recitations
that you've learned to avoid.
Our guide was as animated and theatrical as Meryl Streep
and before long, we succumbed to her easy charm.
Here, it's commonplace to see the "real" Casanova or Marco Polo
pop up at any given moment -- a bit weird, yes -- a bit droll, definitely.
Get ready for a whole lot of fun, the key to this city within a city.
with a horse's bottom sticking out of a brick building?
That's just one of the many surprise encounters
you'll be treated to in this Parisian theater-museum.
The collection here is extensive, one of the best in the world.
It all began when Monsieur Jean Paul Favand, part-time actor, part-time
antique dealer, amassed a remarkable collection of his favorite things --
fun fair curiosities and fairground art.
Being an actor himself, he had the vision to stage the collection
in a theater-like setting with real shows, filling it with not just a bunch
of collected objects but music, costuming and lots of smiling spectators.
and painted -- as well as my personal favorite, a bicycle carousel built in 1897
and still powered by real feet in real pedals -- up to 40 m.p.h!
Here you are not just a spectator, you'll be encouraged to
ride full speed ahead on your favorite stallion.
It makes for an extraordinary afternoon.
There are mid-20th-century games as well -- horse races and shooting galleries
as well as funhouse mirrors and trompe-l'oeil characters.
Before long, our whole group was talking, laughing -- and even broke into spontaneous dancing, well encouraged by our mischievous guide.
You can't help but be drawn into the party.
Your eyes -- actually, all five senses won't get a break until you go
home so take your vitamins before you arrive.
One minute you'll turn around and see a full-throttle can-can
straight from the Moulin Rouge.
The next moment you might see a flying pig or a bigger-than-life cow.
Amazingly, it all feels totally unrehearsed.
But the best part -- the very best takeaway -- are the rapt faces of the kids,
disciples of impromptu fun and spontaneous adventure,
their faces illuminated with joy, their behavior as good as pie in the sky!
"Don't you know that everybody's got a fairyland of their own?"
Mary Poppins, British Nanny
Those were the days!
Warm summer nights filled with carnival rides and greasy fair food,
dare-devil friends and fast-talking carnies.
Sure, it was a far cry from the artistic beauty we now admire in the old
European fairs, but it nonetheless maintained the tradition and time honored
rites of passage that made Hog Days* seem like the best time of the year,
second only to the traditional holiday season.
*I grew up in Kewanee, Illinois which still proudly hosts "Hog Days" to promote the area pork producers.
Fun fairs have been around in Europe for hundreds of years, often tied to local
trade and the monetary well-being of a particular region.
The Belle-Epoque was arguably the golden heyday of these fairs,
an opportunity to show off how much the modern world had evolved.
Up-to-the-minute inventions were transforming the world and
what better way to bring them to the masses than a blowout funfair.
But in the end, these events have one thing in common -- bringing people
together to enjoy a bit of fantastical fun.
The Musée des Arts Forains offers the opportunity to hang out with
like-minded people who want to enjoy a bit of history,
a bit of whimsy and a whole lot of fun.
It's as far from conventional Paris as you can stray,
yet still enveloped in an emblematic cultural treasure.
in-between the joy-rides and competitions.
The French speaking guide pointed out the difference between a French
carousel horse and a German one (I'm not telling) and why some rides
travel clock-wise while other giddy-up counter-clock-wise.
You'll learn a bit about barrel organs and shooting galleries while visions
of candied apples and cotton candy dance in your head.
in Paris' engaging 12th arrondissement.
The "village" is worth a good look on its own so I strongly recommend
you give yourself plenty of time to discover its charms.
Always striving to reinvent itself, the planners and architects of Paris
have accomplished some pretty special magic in Bercy Village.
Cobblestoned streets filled with cafes, gourmet shops and art galleries
make for a warm welcome -- even including a multiplex movie theater.
This is an urban renewal project done right casting a romantic vision of old Paris
in an easy to navigate central courtyard.
Once a busy wine market -- as a matter of fact, at one time Bercy Village was one of the largest in the world -- so the 42 "updated" stone warehouses that line the grand reinvented rue hold some pretty exclusive historical nostalgia not to mention the anticipation of some mighty fine glasses of the fermented grape....
It's unique, it's pretty and to top it all off, the afore-mentioned
Musée des Arts Forains is just a few blocks away.
You must make a reservation well in advance to take the
guided tour of the Musée des Arts Forains.
Museum days/hours of operation vary so I wish you the best of luck.
Fall under its magical spell; let this carnival carry you away.
This is Paris museum wizardry at its most inventive.
Take Line 14 Metro to Cour Saint-Emilion or if you have extra time, stop at
Parc de Bercy to enjoy some lovely green time before your reservation.
it's tough to put your finger on it.
But what ever it is, I like it. And I think you will too.
I think Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra "said" it best:
"Would you like to swing on a star
Carry moonbeams home in a jar
And be better off than you are
Or would you rather be a mule
A mule is an animal with long funny ears
Kicks up at anything he hears
His back is brawny but his brain is weak
He's just plain stupid with a stubborn streak
And by the way, if you hate to go to school
You may grow up to be a mule
Or would you like to swing on a star
Carry moonbeams home in a jar
And be better off than you are
Or would you rather be a pig
A pig is an animal with dirt on his face
His shoes are a terrible disgrace
He has no manners when he eats his food
He's fat and lazy and extremely rude
But if you don't care a feather or a fig
You may grow up to be a pig
Or would you like to swing on a star
Carry moonbeams home in a jar
And be better off than you are
Or would you rather be a fish
A fish won't do anything, but swim in a brook
He can't write his name or read a book
To fool the people is his only thought
And though he's slippery, he still gets caught
But then if that sort of life is what you wish
You may grow up to be a fish
A new kind of jumped up slippery fish
And all the monkeys aren't in the zoo
Every day you meet quite a few
So you see it's all up to you
You can be better than you are
You could be swingin' on a star."
Songwriters:
JOHNNY BURKE, JIMMY HEUSEN-VAN
Published by
Lyrics © Peermusic Publishing
Who doesn't love silly time? And Paris?
And both in the same day -- well, that's just the bee's knees!