"The world only exists in your eyes.
You can make it as big or as small as you want."
F. Scott Fitzgerald
At times the world seems only as big as my tv screen -- or the
little voice that wonders what to make for dinner.
Our universe teeters back and forth from exceptional circumstance
to dismal obligation -- striking a balance between joy and endurance.
No wonder we love to reach back and remember moments
and places that touched us deep down into our bones.
These memories dance around our hearts like tiny ruby-throated hummingbirds,
awarding a much needed distraction from life's more mundane realities.
For me, that momentous place is a treasured spot in the south of France -- so
lovely and unspoiled, it almost seems like a figment of my imagination.
It's a community that's big on the wow factor and small in size.
And much like Fitzgerald (who once lived there) wrote, it's a world that offers
everything -- as big or as small as you need it to be.
My own special place is literally a peninsula -- a small piece of land
surrounded by water -- and the sum of its parts is extraordinary.
I've written before about the linchpin of this demi-island
-- antibes-coloring-outside-the-lines.html --
the stunningly beautiful coastal town of Antibes.
But today, we'll go beyond Antibes, the balance of which includes Cap d'Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and miles of sterling real estate betwixt and between, all exquisite.
Filled with natural beauty and ties to immortal literature, the area
boasts blue ribbon architecture, a legacy of music, striking sunsets, and
a roster of celebrities, dignitaries, royalty, and mythmakers.
You're sure to bring home enough memorable moments to last a lifetime.
"If the path be beautiful, let us not ask where it leads.
Anatole France, French poet & novelist
You can make it as big or as small as you want."
F. Scott Fitzgerald
At times the world seems only as big as my tv screen -- or the
little voice that wonders what to make for dinner.
Our universe teeters back and forth from exceptional circumstance
to dismal obligation -- striking a balance between joy and endurance.
No wonder we love to reach back and remember moments
and places that touched us deep down into our bones.
These memories dance around our hearts like tiny ruby-throated hummingbirds,
awarding a much needed distraction from life's more mundane realities.
For me, that momentous place is a treasured spot in the south of France -- so
lovely and unspoiled, it almost seems like a figment of my imagination.
It's a community that's big on the wow factor and small in size.
And much like Fitzgerald (who once lived there) wrote, it's a world that offers
everything -- as big or as small as you need it to be.
My own special place is literally a peninsula -- a small piece of land
surrounded by water -- and the sum of its parts is extraordinary.
I've written before about the linchpin of this demi-island
-- antibes-coloring-outside-the-lines.html --
the stunningly beautiful coastal town of Antibes.
But today, we'll go beyond Antibes, the balance of which includes Cap d'Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and miles of sterling real estate betwixt and between, all exquisite.
Filled with natural beauty and ties to immortal literature, the area
boasts blue ribbon architecture, a legacy of music, striking sunsets, and
a roster of celebrities, dignitaries, royalty, and mythmakers.
You're sure to bring home enough memorable moments to last a lifetime.
"If the path be beautiful, let us not ask where it leads.
Anatole France, French poet & novelist
Ray Charles and many of the best jazz performers in the world make a date in Juan-les-Pins.
Good Golly, Miss Molly! Little Richard was here.
The day began with an undefined impulse to hike the Sentier Littoral, reputedly
a doable -- hopefully painless -- hike along the coastal path of the peninsula.
But first things first.
We elected to swing by a few special stops on the way, beginning in Juan-les-Pins. Sister city of Antibes, Juan is an easy 20 minute walk from the Old Town.
Known for its youthful nightlife, we decided to skip the more commercial
portion and head straight to the site of the region's best party -- better
known as Jazz à Juan.*
*sometimes called the Juan-les-Pins Jazz Festival
An annual summer event, Jazz à Juan is a Mediterranean-tinged blowout
headlined by many of the jazz world's greatest performers.
Whether you're a fan of traditional jazz, R&B, soul, swing or mambo,
you'll recognize its legacy of big name artists.
Though we weren't visiting during festival time, we still got to
dance our way across the Jazz Walk of Fame -- a sidewalk tribute
to many of the biggest "names" who have performed over the years.
BB King, Louis Armstrong, Ray Charles, Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie,
Ella Fitzgerald, Little Richard, Diana Krall, Wynton Marsalis …… too
many to count, even using my jazz hands.
Such a glorious setting* for these rhythmic over-achievers -- an open-air
concert stage framed by the achingly beautiful Mediterranean Sea.
*if you're searching on a map, this venue is named La Pinède Gould
No wonder Louis Armstrong sang "What a Wonderful World" so convincingly.
a doable -- hopefully painless -- hike along the coastal path of the peninsula.
But first things first.
We elected to swing by a few special stops on the way, beginning in Juan-les-Pins. Sister city of Antibes, Juan is an easy 20 minute walk from the Old Town.
Known for its youthful nightlife, we decided to skip the more commercial
portion and head straight to the site of the region's best party -- better
known as Jazz à Juan.*
*sometimes called the Juan-les-Pins Jazz Festival
An annual summer event, Jazz à Juan is a Mediterranean-tinged blowout
headlined by many of the jazz world's greatest performers.
Whether you're a fan of traditional jazz, R&B, soul, swing or mambo,
you'll recognize its legacy of big name artists.
Though we weren't visiting during festival time, we still got to
dance our way across the Jazz Walk of Fame -- a sidewalk tribute
to many of the biggest "names" who have performed over the years.
BB King, Louis Armstrong, Ray Charles, Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie,
Ella Fitzgerald, Little Richard, Diana Krall, Wynton Marsalis …… too
many to count, even using my jazz hands.
Such a glorious setting* for these rhythmic over-achievers -- an open-air
concert stage framed by the achingly beautiful Mediterranean Sea.
*if you're searching on a map, this venue is named La Pinède Gould
No wonder Louis Armstrong sang "What a Wonderful World" so convincingly.
This is the view F. Scott Fitzgerald enjoyed when he lived in this seaside villa.
Which came first, the chicken or the egg?
In these parts, I think we can safely say the term "jazz age" was born
long before the launch of Juan-les-Pin's jazz festival in 1960.
That's because this community is also home to a famous guest house
named Hotel Belles Rives, the inspiration behind much of
F. Scott Fitzgerald's famous tome "Tender is the Night."
It was Fitzgerald who first coined the term "jazz age"; embracing the life
of an American expat, he was just one of many of WWI's Lost Generation.
And like many others, he first headed to Paris, eventually making
his way to the south of France.
Trying their best to embrace a devil-may-care lifestyle while shutting down
old memories of war's vulgar atrocities,
these writers, artists and performers set up shop on the French Riviera.
They pinned the Cote d'Azur on the map and
fortified the front lines of the Roaring Twenties.
Hotel Belles Rives -- then called Villa Saint-Louis -- was a simple
seaside guesthouse when Scott and Zelda moved in.
But for them it was everything -- "an escape from the world."
Think art deco style, champagne toasts at the piano bar and a
panoramic view all the way to the Iles of Lérins*.
*island off the coast of Cannes.
Water skiing was allegedly born on this very beach.
Whether it was 1926 (when the Fitzgeralds moved in) or today,
it doesn't take a Rhodes Scholar to figure out this place is
the bee's knees and the cat's whiskers all rolled into one.
"Come on, babe, why don't we paint the town? And all that jazz."
Velma Kelly in "Chicago"
In these parts, I think we can safely say the term "jazz age" was born
long before the launch of Juan-les-Pin's jazz festival in 1960.
That's because this community is also home to a famous guest house
named Hotel Belles Rives, the inspiration behind much of
F. Scott Fitzgerald's famous tome "Tender is the Night."
It was Fitzgerald who first coined the term "jazz age"; embracing the life
of an American expat, he was just one of many of WWI's Lost Generation.
And like many others, he first headed to Paris, eventually making
his way to the south of France.
Trying their best to embrace a devil-may-care lifestyle while shutting down
old memories of war's vulgar atrocities,
these writers, artists and performers set up shop on the French Riviera.
They pinned the Cote d'Azur on the map and
fortified the front lines of the Roaring Twenties.
Hotel Belles Rives -- then called Villa Saint-Louis -- was a simple
seaside guesthouse when Scott and Zelda moved in.
But for them it was everything -- "an escape from the world."
Think art deco style, champagne toasts at the piano bar and a
panoramic view all the way to the Iles of Lérins*.
*island off the coast of Cannes.
Water skiing was allegedly born on this very beach.
Whether it was 1926 (when the Fitzgeralds moved in) or today,
it doesn't take a Rhodes Scholar to figure out this place is
the bee's knees and the cat's whiskers all rolled into one.
"Come on, babe, why don't we paint the town? And all that jazz."
Velma Kelly in "Chicago"
Tall gates protect the seaside mansions that line every street in Juan-les-Pins and Cap d'Antibes.
Parasol pines and jagged rocks are the only decoration a beach like this requires,
its blazing sunshine and blue waters completing the boxed set.
No red carpet in sight, thank goodness.
With Cannes and its famous film festival only a few miles away, this
nature-lovers' paradise seems a galaxy away from all the luxury yachts,
hollow-cheeked movie stars and Christian Louboutin heels we typically
associate with moviedom's biggest event.
its blazing sunshine and blue waters completing the boxed set.
No red carpet in sight, thank goodness.
With Cannes and its famous film festival only a few miles away, this
nature-lovers' paradise seems a galaxy away from all the luxury yachts,
hollow-cheeked movie stars and Christian Louboutin heels we typically
associate with moviedom's biggest event.
Everyone has a fantasy hotel they've dreamed of and though
it remains just that, at least I can boast I marched right up
to its front gate -- and was promptly turned away....
I couldn't get mad; sneaking a peek -- and drooling -- was good enough.
Another F. Scott Fitzgerald favorite, this hotel is popular as ever.
In one of his most famous novels, "Tender is the Night" this was
the real setting for his fictionalized Hotel des Étrangers.
The man knew how to write good hotel copy:
"The hotel and its bright tan prayer rug of a beach were one."
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc was the setting of many misadventures
of the in-crowd during that golden era.
The bold bright days of Fitzgerald and Hemingway, Josephine Baker,
Picasso and the Kennedys lit up the night sky.
Always a favorite of Liz Taylor, the exceptional property and Midas-touch
amenities and services drew the likes of Estee Lauder, Cole Porter,
Jack Warner and Charlie Chaplain. Not bad.
Today it draws all the biggest stars who want to "get away from it all"
as they ready for their coming out parties at the Cannes Film Festival.
This is truly the gold standard of accommodation; think celebration,
sunbathing, dining, drinking, tennis and private limo service.
The hotel's swimming pool -- dug into the rock and nearly as perfect
as the sea that surrounds it -- is without equal.
Sometimes referred to as the Hollywood Hotel, these days
you're likely to run into Jessica Chastain and Jennifer Lopez.
Tom Hanks and Karl Lagerfeld enjoy its exemplar delights
as do Katy Perry and Mick Jagger.
Originally built as a writer's retreat in 1870 -- christened
Villa Soleil -- the property barely survived WWII.
In 1944, the U.S. Navy accidentally demolished much of
the estate but rightfully restored it just after the war.
Every last detail will fuel your most outrageous fantasies
so if you think beyond big dreams and have
deep pockets -- at least 2,000€ per night -- knock yourself out!
And just in case you need to take home a souvenir,
search out luxury Swiss watchmaker Hublot's exclusive Classic
Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph designed exclusively
with the hotel's logo and signature blue color ($19,600).
As for me, I'd prefer that time stop
while I'm enjoying this mythical Riviera playground.
it remains just that, at least I can boast I marched right up
to its front gate -- and was promptly turned away....
I couldn't get mad; sneaking a peek -- and drooling -- was good enough.
Another F. Scott Fitzgerald favorite, this hotel is popular as ever.
In one of his most famous novels, "Tender is the Night" this was
the real setting for his fictionalized Hotel des Étrangers.
The man knew how to write good hotel copy:
"The hotel and its bright tan prayer rug of a beach were one."
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc was the setting of many misadventures
of the in-crowd during that golden era.
The bold bright days of Fitzgerald and Hemingway, Josephine Baker,
Picasso and the Kennedys lit up the night sky.
Always a favorite of Liz Taylor, the exceptional property and Midas-touch
amenities and services drew the likes of Estee Lauder, Cole Porter,
Jack Warner and Charlie Chaplain. Not bad.
Today it draws all the biggest stars who want to "get away from it all"
as they ready for their coming out parties at the Cannes Film Festival.
This is truly the gold standard of accommodation; think celebration,
sunbathing, dining, drinking, tennis and private limo service.
The hotel's swimming pool -- dug into the rock and nearly as perfect
as the sea that surrounds it -- is without equal.
Sometimes referred to as the Hollywood Hotel, these days
you're likely to run into Jessica Chastain and Jennifer Lopez.
Tom Hanks and Karl Lagerfeld enjoy its exemplar delights
as do Katy Perry and Mick Jagger.
Originally built as a writer's retreat in 1870 -- christened
Villa Soleil -- the property barely survived WWII.
In 1944, the U.S. Navy accidentally demolished much of
the estate but rightfully restored it just after the war.
Every last detail will fuel your most outrageous fantasies
so if you think beyond big dreams and have
deep pockets -- at least 2,000€ per night -- knock yourself out!
And just in case you need to take home a souvenir,
search out luxury Swiss watchmaker Hublot's exclusive Classic
Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph designed exclusively
with the hotel's logo and signature blue color ($19,600).
As for me, I'd prefer that time stop
while I'm enjoying this mythical Riviera playground.
Hiking can be glamorous.
Perhaps that's overstated but you will feel like a movie star
when you reach the Baie des Milliardaires.
No, not Bay of Millionaires, the correct translation is
BAY OF BILLIONAIRES.
As you take in the audacious properties (carefully hidden behind high gates)
and gulp the fresh sea air, you may be tempted to catch up
on some movie-watching at a later date.
Villa Hier was the setting for Michael Caine's "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels."
Chateau de la Croë is another silk-stocking estate.
Built in the roaring '20's, the property is best known as one of the getaways for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor after the Duke abdicated the throne in 1936.
Winston Churchill and his wife celebrated their anniversary there in 1948
and still later, Aristotle Onassis bought the chateau in the '50's.
These days, it belongs to Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich
who also happens to own a 1.5 billion dollar yacht often docked nearby.
It's good to have choices when deciding where to spend the night....
Perhaps that's overstated but you will feel like a movie star
when you reach the Baie des Milliardaires.
No, not Bay of Millionaires, the correct translation is
BAY OF BILLIONAIRES.
As you take in the audacious properties (carefully hidden behind high gates)
and gulp the fresh sea air, you may be tempted to catch up
on some movie-watching at a later date.
Villa Hier was the setting for Michael Caine's "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels."
Chateau de la Croë is another silk-stocking estate.
Built in the roaring '20's, the property is best known as one of the getaways for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor after the Duke abdicated the throne in 1936.
Winston Churchill and his wife celebrated their anniversary there in 1948
and still later, Aristotle Onassis bought the chateau in the '50's.
These days, it belongs to Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich
who also happens to own a 1.5 billion dollar yacht often docked nearby.
It's good to have choices when deciding where to spend the night....
It looks like the found the perfect little hideaway in the middle of nowhere --- pure bliss.
You must brave the winding paths and rocky steps of this gorgeous nature walk -- Wear good shoes.
Villa Eilenroc is surrounded by lush gardens and unique vegetation.
The Sentier du Littoral -- nicknamed Sentier Tirepoil* -- is mostly a coastal path
though from time to time, you'll veer away from the sea
in order to enjoy the peninsula's inland splendors.
*Tirepoil literally means hair-pull; the playful nickname is well deserved
as the wind messes with your hair when sea breezes prevail.
A few extra steps inland, Villa Eilenroc provides a magical pause
from the blinding sunshine and blue waters.
Built in 1827 by Charles Garnier -- the same architect responsible for the fabulous Palais Garnier in Paris -- its Old World Corinthian columns and
magical garden greet you in true Riviera style.
Unfortunately it's a bit difficult to time your visit during opening hours.
Generally speaking, the mansion is only open on Wednesday afternoons
and occasionally on Saturday.
I feel certain previous guests had an easier time of it.
Kings, queens, lords and presidents -- even Greta Garbo and
Rudolph Valentino -- are just a few of the chateau's guests over the years.
The villa's last owner -- Louis Dudley Beaumont*, updated the mansion and
took great pains to bring the property into the 20th century.
His widow, Helene**, eventually gave the property to the city in 1982.
*Mr. Beaumont, an American WWI hero, was the original owner of the great May Company,
the department store that spawned Famous-Barr, Marshall Fields, Filene's, Lord & Taylor and more.
**Mrs. Beaumont, an Australian-born opera singer, remains famous for her extravagant
collection of jewelry including the Beaumont Emerald Art Deco Necklace.
Together, they gifted millions of dollars to worthy causes including the American Hospital in Neuilly France.
though from time to time, you'll veer away from the sea
in order to enjoy the peninsula's inland splendors.
*Tirepoil literally means hair-pull; the playful nickname is well deserved
as the wind messes with your hair when sea breezes prevail.
A few extra steps inland, Villa Eilenroc provides a magical pause
from the blinding sunshine and blue waters.
Built in 1827 by Charles Garnier -- the same architect responsible for the fabulous Palais Garnier in Paris -- its Old World Corinthian columns and
magical garden greet you in true Riviera style.
Unfortunately it's a bit difficult to time your visit during opening hours.
Generally speaking, the mansion is only open on Wednesday afternoons
and occasionally on Saturday.
I feel certain previous guests had an easier time of it.
Kings, queens, lords and presidents -- even Greta Garbo and
Rudolph Valentino -- are just a few of the chateau's guests over the years.
The villa's last owner -- Louis Dudley Beaumont*, updated the mansion and
took great pains to bring the property into the 20th century.
His widow, Helene**, eventually gave the property to the city in 1982.
*Mr. Beaumont, an American WWI hero, was the original owner of the great May Company,
the department store that spawned Famous-Barr, Marshall Fields, Filene's, Lord & Taylor and more.
**Mrs. Beaumont, an Australian-born opera singer, remains famous for her extravagant
collection of jewelry including the Beaumont Emerald Art Deco Necklace.
Together, they gifted millions of dollars to worthy causes including the American Hospital in Neuilly France.
Fishing for fun or for dinner? You decide.
Lazy days in the south of France. A perfect view and someone is still looking at their phone.....
If you're a bit into voyeurism -- and who isn't on a beach -- there's
an opportunity at every turn.
Picnickers love this path -- in spite of its rather dastardly hazards.
The brave but hungry hikers somehow manage to climb down the rugged rocks
to stake a claim on their very own (nearly) hidden beach.
Step two is pure French magic as they instantly transform their landing pad
into a café terrace - wine, baguette and cheese included.
Though I would never have the nerve to brave that kind of descent -- danger signs are posted throughout -- I relished the chance to play peeping-Tom for the day.
Cheers!
an opportunity at every turn.
Picnickers love this path -- in spite of its rather dastardly hazards.
The brave but hungry hikers somehow manage to climb down the rugged rocks
to stake a claim on their very own (nearly) hidden beach.
Step two is pure French magic as they instantly transform their landing pad
into a café terrace - wine, baguette and cheese included.
Though I would never have the nerve to brave that kind of descent -- danger signs are posted throughout -- I relished the chance to play peeping-Tom for the day.
Cheers!
Cap d'Antibes is an extraordinary place to spend a bit of time or -- if the
stars align -- an entire lifetime.
Whatever the reason for your visit -- the Jazz Festival, the beaches,
the mansions, the history -- it truly is a WONDERFUL WORLD.
What a Wonderful World
Songwriter: Doug Dipreta
"I see trees of green, red roses too
I see them bloom for me and you
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
I see skies of blue and clouds of white
The bright blessed day, the dark sacred night
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
The colors of the rainbow, so pretty in the sky
Are also on the faces of people goin' by
I see friends shakin' hands, sayin'
"How do you do?"
They're really sayin',
"I love you."
I hear babies cry, I watch them grow
They'll learn much more than I'll ever know
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
Yes, I think to myself
What a wonderful world
I hear babies cry, I watch them grow
They'll learn much more than I'll ever know
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
Yes, I think to myself
What a wonderful world
What a wonderful world"
stars align -- an entire lifetime.
Whatever the reason for your visit -- the Jazz Festival, the beaches,
the mansions, the history -- it truly is a WONDERFUL WORLD.
What a Wonderful World
Songwriter: Doug Dipreta
"I see trees of green, red roses too
I see them bloom for me and you
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
I see skies of blue and clouds of white
The bright blessed day, the dark sacred night
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
The colors of the rainbow, so pretty in the sky
Are also on the faces of people goin' by
I see friends shakin' hands, sayin'
"How do you do?"
They're really sayin',
"I love you."
I hear babies cry, I watch them grow
They'll learn much more than I'll ever know
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
Yes, I think to myself
What a wonderful world
I hear babies cry, I watch them grow
They'll learn much more than I'll ever know
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
Yes, I think to myself
What a wonderful world
What a wonderful world"
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